Road shoes for gravel - bad idea?
#1
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Road shoes for gravel - bad idea?
I just got my first gravel bike, and am planning to run my normal road shoes, mainly because I have power meter pedals and am not too keen on the idea of having to buy another power meter. But, my question is, how bad of an idea is it to run road shoes for gravel? Will it completely destroy them? Will I be left on the side of the road/trail, swearing, because I'm unable to clip in? Will I constantly be falling on my face any time I try to walk?
I don't see myself doing a lot of single track, hike-a-bike stuff, but I am sure I'll run into some situations that will involve walking through less-than perfect terrain.
I don't see myself doing a lot of single track, hike-a-bike stuff, but I am sure I'll run into some situations that will involve walking through less-than perfect terrain.
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Why not try it for a bit and make the decision.
There's really no reason to not use road stuff, maybe makes it harder to walk if needed, especially on a sketchy surface. Generally though it's not mt. biking so less need maybe to un-clip.
There's really no reason to not use road stuff, maybe makes it harder to walk if needed, especially on a sketchy surface. Generally though it's not mt. biking so less need maybe to un-clip.
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I'm in the midwest, and I use road shoes on one gravel bike that I have. I'll only use this bike on rides where there is zero chance that I'll be walking the bike. If conditions are muddy, highly technical or steeper than 15%, I'll use mtb shoes.
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If you're going to ride both road and gravel, and only want to deal with one pedal/shoe system, it's probably better to go with mtb shoes for everything.
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The gravel events that I ride are always rain or shine events and most involve at least some singletrack. I made the mistake of using road pedals on my first gravel ride and would never do it again. I use MTB pedals on all of my bikes now.
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This 100%. Heck even with mtb pedals it can tough to get clipped back in sometimes. With road pedals it would be game over.
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Well, if you don't put a foot down whatever you face, road shoes is the way to go
Seriously, I also have power pedals but change them for gravel rides. Use the power pedals only on the road.
Seriously, I also have power pedals but change them for gravel rides. Use the power pedals only on the road.
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#12
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I went for my first ride today, and I can definitely see how road shoes/pedals could be problematic. I stopped and walked a bit in soft dirt, once, just to see what would happen. After that, clipping in/out become more difficult...oddly enough, it was the clipping out part that was effected the most?
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I've done it without problems.
I use mine more as a rigid mountain bike these days, so I switched. I think I've walked 2-3 miles (cumulative) in a ride, over boulders and sand.
I use mine more as a rigid mountain bike these days, so I switched. I think I've walked 2-3 miles (cumulative) in a ride, over boulders and sand.
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What I really meant with my answer is that, no, road shoes won't work well for gravel riding if the OP plans to get into any messy stuff. (I also can't imagine it would be much fun to be swapping pedals back and forth each time I want to ride a different bike, but that's just my opinion.) If anyone wants to do both types of riding and settle on one pedal/shoe system, then MTB is the way to go, as they'll work fine for road use.
Disclaimer: even MTB cleats and pedals can get gunked up. This race had a long muddy section early on, and I walked part of it...and for the whole rest of the race, every time I stopped, I had a miserable time (sometimes as long as a couple minutes) getting clipped back in.
Last edited by Koyote; 01-18-20 at 08:24 PM.
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I've seen posts around here about shoes which accept either type of cleat, but that's beside the point. Part of what makes MTB pedals and cleats so useful for off-pavement riding is that they are designed to shed mud effectively. The fact that they are also much more walkable is helpful, too.
What I really meant with my answer is that, no, road shoes won't work well for gravel riding if the OP plans to get into any messy stuff. (I also can't imagine it would be much fun to be swapping pedals back and forth each time I want to ride a different bike, but that's just my opinion.) If anyone wants to do both types of riding and settle on one pedal/shoe system, then MTB is the way to go, as they'll work fine for road use.
Disclaimer: even MTB cleats and pedals can get gunked up. This race had a long muddy section early on, and I walked part of it...and for the whole rest of the race, every time I stopped, I had a miserable time (sometimes as long as a couple minutes) getting clipped back in.
What I really meant with my answer is that, no, road shoes won't work well for gravel riding if the OP plans to get into any messy stuff. (I also can't imagine it would be much fun to be swapping pedals back and forth each time I want to ride a different bike, but that's just my opinion.) If anyone wants to do both types of riding and settle on one pedal/shoe system, then MTB is the way to go, as they'll work fine for road use.
Disclaimer: even MTB cleats and pedals can get gunked up. This race had a long muddy section early on, and I walked part of it...and for the whole rest of the race, every time I stopped, I had a miserable time (sometimes as long as a couple minutes) getting clipped back in.
It seems the OP’s desire to use his power pedals limits his use of shoes to road shoes unless somebody knows of a mt. bike shoe with a recessed cleat area, plus lugs for traction and that allows use of a 3 bolt cleat. I’ve never seen that.
Possibly he (assumption) will not be cross racing or riding such terrain that will see him wanting a shoe that’s easier to walk in.
#16
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That’s not answering the (my) question, but no need.
It seems the OP’s desire to use his power pedals limits his use of shoes to road shoes unless somebody knows of a mt. bike shoe with a recessed cleat area, plus lugs for traction and that allows use of a 3 bolt cleat. I’ve never seen that.
Possibly he (assumption) will not be cross racing or riding such terrain that will see him wanting a shoe that’s easier to walk in.
It seems the OP’s desire to use his power pedals limits his use of shoes to road shoes unless somebody knows of a mt. bike shoe with a recessed cleat area, plus lugs for traction and that allows use of a 3 bolt cleat. I’ve never seen that.
Possibly he (assumption) will not be cross racing or riding such terrain that will see him wanting a shoe that’s easier to walk in.
Honestly, I'm not sure what terrain I'll be riding. During the winter, at least, I'm pretty sure I'll be sticking to dirt roads/light gravel tracks. But come summer time, I'll probably end up riding more technical/messy stuff when I'm able to do riding in the mountains.
I have no problem with having to use road and MTB systems, but I'd prefer not to unless it's necessary, simply due to the initial cost (~$700 on the low end) of doing so...and bases on the feedback here (and my very brief experience, today) I sure it's something that I'm going to have to invest in.
#17
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No. The 3-bolt road cleat attachment scheme is much bigger than a typical MTB recess, and you'd need ludicrously wide lug placement to clear the cleat and pedal.
At any rate, I don't see much point. The main issue with using road cleats offroad isn't the difficulty of walking, it's the cleats getting gunked up and chewed up. I think road shoes usually don't create any larger difficulties walking off-pavement than they do on-pavement.
At any rate, I don't see much point. The main issue with using road cleats offroad isn't the difficulty of walking, it's the cleats getting gunked up and chewed up. I think road shoes usually don't create any larger difficulties walking off-pavement than they do on-pavement.
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We actually agree with each other that a mt. bike shoe and pedal system is the best choice, generally. I think even in conditions where there’s no potential for the cleat getting gummed up, walking in slick soled plastic bottomed road shoes, whose cleats stick out of the bottom, is less than desirable as compared to mt. shoes. My experience anyway.
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A MTB shoe that excepts a 3-bolt road cleat is not something that I would be interested in, even if it existed...you'd still end up with the mud buildup issue that I'd be looking to avoid.
Honestly, I'm not sure what terrain I'll be riding. During the winter, at least, I'm pretty sure I'll be sticking to dirt roads/light gravel tracks. But come summer time, I'll probably end up riding more technical/messy stuff when I'm able to do riding in the mountains.
I have no problem with having to use road and MTB systems, but I'd prefer not to unless it's necessary, simply due to the initial cost (~$700 on the low end) of doing so...and bases on the feedback here (and my very brief experience, today) I sure it's something that I'm going to have to invest in.
Honestly, I'm not sure what terrain I'll be riding. During the winter, at least, I'm pretty sure I'll be sticking to dirt roads/light gravel tracks. But come summer time, I'll probably end up riding more technical/messy stuff when I'm able to do riding in the mountains.
I have no problem with having to use road and MTB systems, but I'd prefer not to unless it's necessary, simply due to the initial cost (~$700 on the low end) of doing so...and bases on the feedback here (and my very brief experience, today) I sure it's something that I'm going to have to invest in.
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I used road shoes for the first year or so of gravel. I ended up wearing out the cleats pretty quickly. I understand the desire to keep using your pedals, I would just keep an eye on your cleats and replace them when they get worn
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I just got my first gravel bike, and am planning to run my normal road shoes, mainly because I have power meter pedals and am not too keen on the idea of having to buy another power meter. But, my question is, how bad of an idea is it to run road shoes for gravel? Will it completely destroy them? Will I be left on the side of the road/trail, swearing, because I'm unable to clip in? Will I constantly be falling on my face any time I try to walk?
I don't see myself doing a lot of single track, hike-a-bike stuff, but I am sure I'll run into some situations that will involve walking through less-than perfect terrain.
I don't see myself doing a lot of single track, hike-a-bike stuff, but I am sure I'll run into some situations that will involve walking through less-than perfect terrain.
#23
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Started out with my normal SPD-SLs on my gravel bike. But after a few bits of having to walk, I bought SPD pedals and shoes for it. Difficult to walk very far or up a steep slope in the road shoes, and once they get some mud in them, difficult to clip in and out.
Still use the SLs on my pure road bike.
Still use the SLs on my pure road bike.
#24
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I went ahead and ordered MTB shoes/pedals...I went for another (longer, more isolated) gravel ride yesterday, and it convinced me that it's the best route.
However, another issue that I have with going with MTB shoes/pedals is, I have a large leg length discrepancy and I'm not sure how well having to run running shims works with them. The main benefit to the MTB setup is the recessed cleats, so having one protruding outwards does kind of defeat the purpose, no?
However, another issue that I have with going with MTB shoes/pedals is, I have a large leg length discrepancy and I'm not sure how well having to run running shims works with them. The main benefit to the MTB setup is the recessed cleats, so having one protruding outwards does kind of defeat the purpose, no?
#25
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I went ahead and ordered MTB shoes/pedals...I went for another (longer, more isolated) gravel ride yesterday, and it convinced me that it's the best route.
However, another issue that I have with going with MTB shoes/pedals is, I have a large leg length discrepancy and I'm not sure how well having to run running shims works with them. The main benefit to the MTB setup is the recessed cleats, so having one protruding outwards does kind of defeat the purpose, no?
However, another issue that I have with going with MTB shoes/pedals is, I have a large leg length discrepancy and I'm not sure how well having to run running shims works with them. The main benefit to the MTB setup is the recessed cleats, so having one protruding outwards does kind of defeat the purpose, no?
If it's a big concern, one option might be to make custom MTB shoes by starting with road shoes that have a 2-bolt cleat interface and bonding scrap tire tread to the soles as the lugs.