smooth ride checklists
06-26-08, 09:46 PM
#1
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smooth ride checklists
did a search but couldnt find anything really fully conclusive.
so im at 2500+mi on my Kilo TT (all stock parts, front brake installed at 1500 mi). It's been rolling a bit more rough lately, and I would like to verify im doing the proper things to keep it from being rough.
-I grease my cranks/bearing part, and my hubs
-my chain is getting worn from being too tight (i loosened it up a bit, properly, with tensioners)
-i apply rock n' roll dry lube to my chain every 100-150 mi.
-my wheels are true/straight
-i ride with the max psi for my stock kenda tires, 110psi
im thinking/hoping that this rougher ride is due to a worn chain; I have a new one coming in the mail.
Anything else I'm not looking at or not doing properly?
so im at 2500+mi on my Kilo TT (all stock parts, front brake installed at 1500 mi). It's been rolling a bit more rough lately, and I would like to verify im doing the proper things to keep it from being rough.
-I grease my cranks/bearing part, and my hubs
-my chain is getting worn from being too tight (i loosened it up a bit, properly, with tensioners)
-i apply rock n' roll dry lube to my chain every 100-150 mi.
-my wheels are true/straight
-i ride with the max psi for my stock kenda tires, 110psi
im thinking/hoping that this rougher ride is due to a worn chain; I have a new one coming in the mail.
Anything else I'm not looking at or not doing properly?
06-26-08, 09:57 PM
#2
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When lubing your chain, its a good idea to get your self some degreaser and clean it before applying new lube. This will add to the life of your chain. Also, chainrings, cogs, chains usually "form" to one another. It has been said that changing them all together is the best thing to do. Lastly, I've heard those bottom brackets in to TT aren't the best so that might need replacing.
06-26-08, 10:27 PM
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New chain will probably make quite a large difference. The lube that comes a new chain just seems to be so much better than anything you can buy.
If you really want a chain to last you can remove it from your bike and let it soak in some degreaser overnight. You just have to make sure you lube it up real good before you use it again.
If you really want a chain to last you can remove it from your bike and let it soak in some degreaser overnight. You just have to make sure you lube it up real good before you use it again.
06-27-08, 01:04 AM
#4
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I use 3eu chains, so I replace them often. But I would think my chain ring needs to be swaped out for a new one.
Also clean you chain, cog, and chain ring asap after a ride on a rainy day, spray from the wet ground really ****s **** up, if you don't clean it off. This also true for loose ball head sets, which reminds me, need to repack.
Also wipe down your chain after 10min of letting the lube sit. I think for wax lubes its not as important, or totaly useless.
I normaly carry a rag ( tied to seat stays), and I give my chain a wipe once in a while.
I have read that sometimes the components are just noisy, nothing you can do, (except replacing them).
Also clean you chain, cog, and chain ring asap after a ride on a rainy day, spray from the wet ground really ****s **** up, if you don't clean it off. This also true for loose ball head sets, which reminds me, need to repack.
Also wipe down your chain after 10min of letting the lube sit. I think for wax lubes its not as important, or totaly useless.
I normaly carry a rag ( tied to seat stays), and I give my chain a wipe once in a while.
I have read that sometimes the components are just noisy, nothing you can do, (except replacing them).
06-27-08, 01:38 AM
#5
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thank you for the words, guys.
can i get more elaboration on the bad bottom brackets on the kilo tt ---
i bought the bike to learn to ride, and ride it to the ground -- and replace parts when broken =)
can i get more elaboration on the bad bottom brackets on the kilo tt ---
i bought the bike to learn to ride, and ride it to the ground -- and replace parts when broken =)
06-27-08, 06:43 AM
#6
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Re the degreaser tip: That's really a point of contention. I've heard a lot of folks say you should just lube and wipe, and the excess lube will wash the gunk out. Supposedly degreasing gets too much of the lube out of the super-tiny nooks and crannies, and it's hard to get lube back in there.
Before you replace your chain, check to be sure that it's actually worn. Line the end of a ruler up with one of the pins. Since the chain is 1/2" pitch, the other end of the ruler should be lined up with a pin as well. SB gives these helpful rules of thumb for replacement:
Before you replace your chain, check to be sure that it's actually worn. Line the end of a ruler up with one of the pins. Since the chain is 1/2" pitch, the other end of the ruler should be lined up with a pin as well. SB gives these helpful rules of thumb for replacement:
# If the rivet is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.
# If the rivet is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
# If the rivet is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
# If the rivet is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.
# If the rivet is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
# If the rivet is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
# If the rivet is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.
06-27-08, 06:44 AM
#7
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Just a note to add.. when I replaced my original kilo bottom bracket it had some rust on it.. it was greased well and looked to be in good shape.. but i replaced it with a sugino (got new crankset) and you notice it does pedal smoother. Just something to look into..
I didn't see in your original post where you lubed the bb.. you might want to try that first.
I didn't see in your original post where you lubed the bb.. you might want to try that first.
06-27-08, 08:06 AM
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Re the degreaser tip: That's really a point of contention. I've heard a lot of folks say you should just lube and wipe, and the excess lube will wash the gunk out. Supposedly degreasing gets too much of the lube out of the super-tiny nooks and crannies, and it's hard to get lube back in there.
Before you replace your chain, check to be sure that it's actually worn. Line the end of a ruler up with one of the pins. Since the chain is 1/2" pitch, the other end of the ruler should be lined up with a pin as well. SB gives these helpful rules of thumb for replacement:
Before you replace your chain, check to be sure that it's actually worn. Line the end of a ruler up with one of the pins. Since the chain is 1/2" pitch, the other end of the ruler should be lined up with a pin as well. SB gives these helpful rules of thumb for replacement:
06-27-08, 11:36 AM
#9
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Re the degreaser tip: That's really a point of contention. I've heard a lot of folks say you should just lube and wipe, and the excess lube will wash the gunk out. Supposedly degreasing gets too much of the lube out of the super-tiny nooks and crannies, and it's hard to get lube back in there.
Before you replace your chain, check to be sure that it's actually worn. Line the end of a ruler up with one of the pins. Since the chain is 1/2" pitch, the other end of the ruler should be lined up with a pin as well. SB gives these helpful rules of thumb for replacement:
Before you replace your chain, check to be sure that it's actually worn. Line the end of a ruler up with one of the pins. Since the chain is 1/2" pitch, the other end of the ruler should be lined up with a pin as well. SB gives these helpful rules of thumb for replacement:
I use Squirt Chain Lube
06-27-08, 12:28 PM
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The OP is using dry lube, so it really doesn't make much sense to degrease it.
I don't believe that the drivetrain wears in together as much with a fixed gear as on a geared bike. Chain rings are not ramped and pinned, and the cogs are hardened steel-- everything is very uniform and generally more ruggedly built. If you change your chain relatively frequently, you will save the rest of your drive train. I am always swapping wheels to run different gear ratios, and the only time it ever runs a bit rough is when I throw a 14 on-- and it uses rather squarish teeth.
I am not sure the point of lubing a sealed BB (assuming it is sealed, as most are these days).
I don't believe that the drivetrain wears in together as much with a fixed gear as on a geared bike. Chain rings are not ramped and pinned, and the cogs are hardened steel-- everything is very uniform and generally more ruggedly built. If you change your chain relatively frequently, you will save the rest of your drive train. I am always swapping wheels to run different gear ratios, and the only time it ever runs a bit rough is when I throw a 14 on-- and it uses rather squarish teeth.
I am not sure the point of lubing a sealed BB (assuming it is sealed, as most are these days).
When lubing your chain, its a good idea to get your self some degreaser and clean it before applying new lube. This will add to the life of your chain. Also, chainrings, cogs, chains usually "form" to one another. It has been said that changing them all together is the best thing to do. Lastly, I've heard those bottom brackets in to TT aren't the best so that might need replacing.
