james_swift

A word about cranks:

Check the fitting of your cranks, people. I just replaced the stock 170mm cranks with 165mm ones, and the crank bolts on the driveside were loose. I was able to extract the crank itself with very little resistance. After installing my new cranks, the forward chainline shifted inboard by 2 mm, confirming that the original crank had not been re-torqued after initial installation at the factory, thus preventing the crank from seating all the way up against the bottom bracket spindle. Interesting to note, the 165mm crankset I purchased from Brev.M is the exact same model as the stock crank (Lasco C14 stamped on the back of the arm), only difference being the Brev.M rebrand has a nice polished finish.

rcnute

After an initial shakedown my plan is to tear it apart and put it back together, grease and adjust. Otherwise, you just don't know.

Dynocoaster 

I installed the Marathon Racers this evening, They ride very nice. I didnt have any problems getting the Kendas off but it was 70 degrees today and I was in the sun shine removing them. What I have been having trouble with is the front derailleur. I am tempted to get rid of it and get a new one and start over.

vmaniqui

if i were to get one. i think i will just keep the rims and frame and change all parts - crankset, BB, saddle, handlebar, brakes, tires, cables. with this in mind i might as well just look for a used frame....

monsterpile

I don't know where you are going to find a used mini velo frame.

Maybe I am too cheap, but some people make too big of a deal of the "junk" on these bikes. If you really want to upgrade one of these by a complete road bike on CL and transfer everything over and sell the frame and leftovers. I almost bought a complete bike with Ultegra components for this purpose a month after I got my Shetland and would have been $300 for the bike. I might still do something like this, but honestly I find that the head tube shifters are pretty easy to work with. $60 for a set of bar ends would be enough of an upgrade for me at this point. On my bike everything works great and after the brake pad replacement I don't see any need to upgrade anything. I guess it doesn't matter because in a few more minutes those Nano's become $30 more expensive pumkins...well the orange ones anyway. LOL

Dynocoaster 

I knew I would replace the saddle, pedals tires and brakes. My complaint is the front derailleur and a new Sora is around $20 so no big deal. Otherwise this bike is great.

hubcap

I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a 53cm black Nano last night. I still don't know all the conditions in which I will use the bike, but I love the look and idea of them. I have been checking out folders so I could take a bike on the commuter trains around here during the normal commute hours when regular bikes are not allowed. This Nano still won't get me on the train with it in tow, but at least when my wife and kids want to pick me up at the train station after work, I will be able to toss the bike in the back of the car without having to take both wheels off.

Has anyone here put a rack on one of these yet? I'm trying to envison how they could work with panniers.

james_swift

I replaced the stock squishy brake levers with a set of Tektro R200 levers that I had in my parts bin. Made a significant improvement in overall brake feel. Also applied dry-type chain lube (Boeshield) to the brake cables. When my replacement brake pads come in, I think these issues with the brakes will be sorted (without having had to buy new brakes).

monsterpile

Here is my Shetland with a rear rack and Nashbar Daytreker panniers on it. The rack went on very easily and was a Trek or Bontrager one I had laying around.

clanke01

Well, I got myself a flat -- same problem as james_swift mentioned in his earlier post with the rim tape. Enjoyed a nice 5 mile walk back home At least the rain let up a little.

subigo

Where are you guys buying your 20 inch tubes with presta valves? The LBS in my area refuses to carry them and the closest shop that does carry them is literally over 100 miles away.

james_swift

Buy them online. Get a bunch so you have plenty of spares. Save yourself the 100 mile drive.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AO9Q06
https://poweroncycling.com/product/va...-tubes-642.htm
https://www.calhouncycle.com/productc...&idproduct=798
https://www.hostelshoppe.com/cgi-bin/...ory=1023225430

james_swift

Took the Nano out for a jaunt up to the Golden Gate Bridge today and manged to get a pedal strike while pedaling through a corner. While it was probably half my fault as I am used to pedaling through corners on my 2 other fixed-gear bikes, it didn't take much of a lean angle for the pedal to hit ground (even with the shorter 165mm crank swap-out). Luckily my plastic BMX platform pedals just slid right through the turn without catching.

Confirmed my suspicion that re-fitting a bike with 406 tires when it was originally designed around 451 tires wasn't the greatest idea. Anyway, be careful out there, and if you must pedal through a corner, do as fixed-gear riders do and try keeping the bike as upright as possible by pushing the bike away from the corner while your body leans into it.

Kabir

Hmm... does anyone know the width of the rim tape I should look for as the replacement?

LudaCliff

Hey guys, I found out about the BD Mini Velo on another forum, but there's not much interest there. Glad to see the amount of people interested here. Anyway, I had to get one and placed my order for an Orange 53cm early this month. My mini velo was delivered this past Tuesday.

After seeing the pics of Subigo's fork, I immediately checked mine. Just like his, my fork has loads of sloppy welds (looks worse than his), but hardly any metal for the brake bolt at the rear. I'll be contacting BD about the fork.


I checked the rest of the frame and found holes in the seat stays, under the seat stay/seat tube welds. I'm not sure if these are supposed to be drainage holes or not (have not seen this on other steel frames). Does any one else have these holes? The seat stay welds look fine, just the holes. Should these holes be a safety concern?


The spacing of my front and rear dropouts are a little off as well. The front dropout is a little wider than 100mm and has to be "squeezed" to meet the hub. I had a hell of a time removing the rear wheel the first time. I have to "work" the wheel a little to get it on/off. I measured the rear dropouts at 128mm, so I may have to cold set it to 130mm. I also replaced the rubber rim strips with Velox tape as suggested earlier.

Although the frame/fork has some issues, I'm really excited about the bike. I haven't had a chance to take it out for a ride yet, but plan to finish tuning it up and riding it this weekend.

james_swift

17mm.

james_swift

My nano has ALL the same "features" as you described with yours. I'm going to bet Bikesdirect says that your fork will be "fine to use and should not be a safety concern". It's the should part in that statement that concerns me. Anyway, send in your picture to them and let us know what they say.

subigo

They sent me a new fork and it was received by a family member of mine yesterday (UPS doesn't deliver to my place). Once I get a chance to go pick it up, I'll let you guys know how it looks.

rcnute

Those holes in the seatstays aren't there by design. I'd send that one back.

762x54

I checked mine and it has the same holes. I think they are intentional; meant to release trapped air heated during the welding process. Some folks who live in damp climates insert the straw from a WD-40 can and spray in oil to combat interal frame rust.

rcnute

I completely disassembled mine tonight. Same issue with the sloppy fork weld; hopefully it will be okay. There was some slight surface rust in the seat tube, on the steerer tube and on the shifter bosses (usual, no big deal). I treated the tubes with Boeshield T-9. There's a little grease in the headset but none in the bottom bracket (or anywhere else). Haven't gotten into the hubs yet but suspect they'll need some greasing and readjustment too. I figure for the price this is all par for the course.

rcnute

You're right; I was looking at the photo from the wrong angle (they weren't where I thought they'd be).

kingfish254

It is hard to beat that price for a mini velo. I still like the looks of my Hammerhead better though.

Dynocoaster 

BD is sending me a new fork.

mconlonx

Check over all bolts and nuts on your new Bikes Direct bike. And derailleur / brake adjustment. And wheel true. And bearing tension, especially at the headset.

If you're getting a BD bike, you are receiving a bike in a box just like any bike shop does with any new bike from pretty much any manufacturer. More than just slapping parts together, there are a bunch of basic things you need to go over. Brake and derailleur adjustment for sure. But also and maybe even more importantly, check to see that all bolts like cranks, stem, etc are torqued to spec. Yes, you need to go through the bike from stem to stern and make sure everything is properly tightened and adjusted. A decent bike shop will put an hour into a build from a box; a shop can do a quick assembly in 30 minutes or so. Figure on a couple hours to get your bike going right. This is not on BD; this is on you to make the bike right when you assemble it.

Beyond your mechanical ability? Take it to a bike shop and fork over $50-75 for bike assembly/tune. Figure this cost into the price of the bike...

Park Tool repair help website is your friend if you go the DIY route.