Triple for an Ironman?
#1
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Triple for an Ironman?
Hey fellas, especially you Ironman dudes. I have the 87 IM Expert with standard 52/42 biopace chainring with the small 6 speed freewheel. 11/24 I think. It's great on the flats but I'm wondering about switching to a triple crankset. I know I'll probably have to change just about everything from FD, RD, chain, cassette, and who knows what else. I just really want to ride this road bike and still have the gearing for hills. What about going with a double 50/34 compact with 11/32 cassette? Those of you who have that set up...how is it for hills? I rode the Chilly Hilly here in Seattle/Bainbridge Island, last week with my triple ring Sirrus flat bar bike. It was good for the hills but I really was wishing I had my road bike for the rest of the ride. Anyway...Let me know what you guys think. I'm open to suggestions.
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Here you go. I have triples on all of my bikes. You can also change the freehub body to one that takes 7 speed HG cassettes. That a cheap, easy swap. If those are the original 105 derailleurs the RD will work with a 28T sprocket but not a 30t. The FD will not shift a triple the 600 FD that came on the Master will shift a triple, at least the ones I have will.
Last edited by seypat; 03-04-20 at 05:20 AM.
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Use whatever you need; the Ironman will respond.
I recommend the compact double you mentioned, but it's really what works with your legs. What I can say is "do it right," with components that work together and are supposed to. Some shortcuts have compromises, so just be methodical and careful.
I've seen Pat' s setups and they work; he's figured it out for his legs; plenty of power and a methodical climber.
rccardr is a master at ciphering the mix, so he's a resource, too.
My contribution is both "establishment" and a bit outside the box:
Two bikes running "factory" triples, with shifters, FD, RD, crankset, BB all playing nice in a 52/42/30 configuration, one Campy, one Ultegra, with a moderate 12-26 or so in back.
Two bikes running "wide big doubles," with full size cranksets but wider cassettes than specified, with a Wolftooth Roadlink providing extra clearance in back, carefully realizing that chain wrap is compromised. 53/39 and 11-32 rear.
Lately, I've focused on two "do it all" combinations, which I see a lot where I ride. The compact folks are riding 50/34 up front, using a long cage RD, and running from 11-28 to 11-34 rears. This seems to work for the vast majority of them, and well.
My mid-compact setup was recommended by a guy who likes to climb and go fast. 52/36 up front and 11-34 in the rear. Goes about anywhere.
All that being said, I have a 1x11 inbound, 53 front and 11-50 rear. We'll see.
My climbing Ironman is a compact front, an older carbon crankset with 50/34 rings. A long cage RD with an 11-30 rear and it works well. I used the same FD and shifters (downtube).
The advantage of a compact crankset (110 BCD), to me, is that you can use a very wide range of rings to get what you need.
I recommend the compact double you mentioned, but it's really what works with your legs. What I can say is "do it right," with components that work together and are supposed to. Some shortcuts have compromises, so just be methodical and careful.
I've seen Pat' s setups and they work; he's figured it out for his legs; plenty of power and a methodical climber.
rccardr is a master at ciphering the mix, so he's a resource, too.
My contribution is both "establishment" and a bit outside the box:
Two bikes running "factory" triples, with shifters, FD, RD, crankset, BB all playing nice in a 52/42/30 configuration, one Campy, one Ultegra, with a moderate 12-26 or so in back.
Two bikes running "wide big doubles," with full size cranksets but wider cassettes than specified, with a Wolftooth Roadlink providing extra clearance in back, carefully realizing that chain wrap is compromised. 53/39 and 11-32 rear.
Lately, I've focused on two "do it all" combinations, which I see a lot where I ride. The compact folks are riding 50/34 up front, using a long cage RD, and running from 11-28 to 11-34 rears. This seems to work for the vast majority of them, and well.
My mid-compact setup was recommended by a guy who likes to climb and go fast. 52/36 up front and 11-34 in the rear. Goes about anywhere.
All that being said, I have a 1x11 inbound, 53 front and 11-50 rear. We'll see.
My climbing Ironman is a compact front, an older carbon crankset with 50/34 rings. A long cage RD with an 11-30 rear and it works well. I used the same FD and shifters (downtube).
The advantage of a compact crankset (110 BCD), to me, is that you can use a very wide range of rings to get what you need.
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As said, there are many ways to go about this, and plenty of expertise here in figuring out what works with what. My '87 Expert is set up with a 50/34 compact double and 11-28 9 speed cassette. I went with a whole Sora R3000 group to keep everything playing well together. Shimano R500 wheels are not expensive, but offer a pretty decent ride for the money. Here's mine
I am also in the process of triplizing another 80's bike. Mostly Ultegra 6500. It is a bit of work, and can get as costly as you want, but riding is riding. If it'll put you out there then go for it.
The Ironman is great on hills with this setup.
I am also in the process of triplizing another 80's bike. Mostly Ultegra 6500. It is a bit of work, and can get as costly as you want, but riding is riding. If it'll put you out there then go for it.
The Ironman is great on hills with this setup.
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It's easy enough to spread the frame and run a 130 OLD rear wheel. That way you can run a 50/34 up front and a cassette in the rear. You will need (1) new wheels, (2) a cassette, (3) chain, (4) new shifters (or bar ends or brifters) that work with your cassette (8) and a rear derailleur that can handle your new set up.
I'd stick with a square taper 110 bcd crank. This Holdsworth retro crank looks good on an old bike and the price is right:
https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CSHOCN...retro-crankset
A triple is a bit more complicated to set up but you could keep your old wheels and run the bike 3 x 6 or 3 x 7. If going with a triple, it's tough to beat an old shimano square taper 110/74 bcd crank. Shimano square taper sealed BBs are inexpensive and very good. You will need a new rear derailleur and chain. Maybe the FD can handle the triple.
I'd stick with a square taper 110 bcd crank. This Holdsworth retro crank looks good on an old bike and the price is right:
https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CSHOCN...retro-crankset
A triple is a bit more complicated to set up but you could keep your old wheels and run the bike 3 x 6 or 3 x 7. If going with a triple, it's tough to beat an old shimano square taper 110/74 bcd crank. Shimano square taper sealed BBs are inexpensive and very good. You will need a new rear derailleur and chain. Maybe the FD can handle the triple.
Last edited by bikemig; 03-04-20 at 08:11 AM.
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Speaking of 110BCD cranks, a lot of Sugino and Sakae 110 cranks came as doubles but were also drilled with 74BCD holes for a 3rd ring. If you are cruising the Bay looking for a 110 crank, look and see if they have the 74BCD threaded holes. I would get a 110/74 anyway because you can run it as a compact double or a triple.
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Use whatever you need; the Ironman will respond.
I recommend the compact double you mentioned, but it's really what works with your legs. What I can say is "do it right," with components that work together and are supposed to. Some shortcuts have compromises, so just be methodical and careful.
I've seen Pat' s setups and they work; he's figured it out for his legs; plenty of power and a methodical climber.
rccardr is a master at ciphering the mix, so he's a resource, too.
My contribution is both "establishment" and a bit outside the box:
Two bikes running "factory" triples, with shifters, FD, RD, crankset, BB all playing nice in a 52/42/30 configuration, one Campy, one Ultegra, with a moderate 12-26 or so in back.
Two bikes running "wide big doubles," with full size cranksets but wider cassettes than specified, with a Wolftooth Roadlink providing extra clearance in back, carefully realizing that chain wrap is compromised. 53/39 and 11-32 rear.
Lately, I've focused on two "do it all" combinations, which I see a lot where I ride. The compact folks are riding 50/34 up front, using a long cage RD, and running from 11-28 to 11-34 rears. This seems to work for the vast majority of them, and well.
My mid-compact setup was recommended by a guy who likes to climb and go fast. 52/36 up front and 11-34 in the rear. Goes about anywhere.
All that being said, I have a 1x11 inbound, 53 front and 11-50 rear. We'll see.
My climbing Ironman is a compact front, an older carbon crankset with 50/34 rings. A long cage RD with an 11-30 rear and it works well. I used the same FD and shifters (downtube).
The advantage of a compact crankset (110 BCD), to me, is that you can use a very wide range of rings to get what you need.
I recommend the compact double you mentioned, but it's really what works with your legs. What I can say is "do it right," with components that work together and are supposed to. Some shortcuts have compromises, so just be methodical and careful.
I've seen Pat' s setups and they work; he's figured it out for his legs; plenty of power and a methodical climber.
rccardr is a master at ciphering the mix, so he's a resource, too.
My contribution is both "establishment" and a bit outside the box:
Two bikes running "factory" triples, with shifters, FD, RD, crankset, BB all playing nice in a 52/42/30 configuration, one Campy, one Ultegra, with a moderate 12-26 or so in back.
Two bikes running "wide big doubles," with full size cranksets but wider cassettes than specified, with a Wolftooth Roadlink providing extra clearance in back, carefully realizing that chain wrap is compromised. 53/39 and 11-32 rear.
Lately, I've focused on two "do it all" combinations, which I see a lot where I ride. The compact folks are riding 50/34 up front, using a long cage RD, and running from 11-28 to 11-34 rears. This seems to work for the vast majority of them, and well.
My mid-compact setup was recommended by a guy who likes to climb and go fast. 52/36 up front and 11-34 in the rear. Goes about anywhere.
All that being said, I have a 1x11 inbound, 53 front and 11-50 rear. We'll see.
My climbing Ironman is a compact front, an older carbon crankset with 50/34 rings. A long cage RD with an 11-30 rear and it works well. I used the same FD and shifters (downtube).
The advantage of a compact crankset (110 BCD), to me, is that you can use a very wide range of rings to get what you need.
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These guys have covered pretty much all the bases. My 86 (which has 600 instead of 105, but can handle the same gearing limits) with a compact 110/110/74 crankset as noted by Pat above and a 13-28 freewheel:
At one time I also mounted a Deore RD on that frame with a set of 10 speed Shimano wheels and an 11-34 cassette, which worked very well for Thunder Ridge (lotsa climbing there).
Another thing to consider if you're short on funds or just want to keep the 105 crankset is a setup like on the Schwinn Prologue: 50/38 rings so a sorta compact, with a 13-28 cassette. Not quite as good a gearing climber but still competent:
At one time I also mounted a Deore RD on that frame with a set of 10 speed Shimano wheels and an 11-34 cassette, which worked very well for Thunder Ridge (lotsa climbing there).
Another thing to consider if you're short on funds or just want to keep the 105 crankset is a setup like on the Schwinn Prologue: 50/38 rings so a sorta compact, with a 13-28 cassette. Not quite as good a gearing climber but still competent:
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Speaking of 110BCD cranks, a lot of Sugino and Sakae 110 cranks came as doubles but were also drilled with 74BCD holes for a 3rd ring. If you are cruising the Bay looking for a 110 crank, look and see if they have the 74BCD threaded holes. I would get a 110/74 anyway because you can run it as a compact double or a triple.
I just installed one of these on my last build. It requires a 3U 124.5mm spindle for a triple build. There are 2 types of 124.5mm spindles. This one requires the 3U which is 32-52-40.5. It has to have the 40.5 for the 3rd ring.
Here is a matching spindle. Check with the seller to verify the measurements.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/nut-type-bo...4AAOSwghJc4XT3
Buy a crank like that and you'll have options. Go from there. BTW, the Sugino AT is a really pretty crank.
Last edited by seypat; 03-04-20 at 07:55 AM.
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These guys have covered pretty much all the bases. My 86 (which has 600 instead of 105, but can handle the same gearing limits) with a compact 110/110/74 crankset as noted by Pat above and a 13-28 freewheel:
At one time I also mounted a Deore RD on that frame with a set of 10 speed Shimano wheels and an 11-34 cassette, which worked very well for Thunder Ridge (lotsa climbing there).
Another thing to consider if you're short on funds or just want to keep the 105 crankset is a setup like on the Schwinn Prologue: 50/38 rings so a sorta compact, with a 13-28 cassette. Not quite as good a gearing climber but still competent:
At one time I also mounted a Deore RD on that frame with a set of 10 speed Shimano wheels and an 11-34 cassette, which worked very well for Thunder Ridge (lotsa climbing there).
Another thing to consider if you're short on funds or just want to keep the 105 crankset is a setup like on the Schwinn Prologue: 50/38 rings so a sorta compact, with a 13-28 cassette. Not quite as good a gearing climber but still competent:
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One more idea.
If daredevil descending is not your thing, just get a compact, with 48/34 and a 14/28 freewheel. Done. The rest of the 87 IM will work fine with that.
If daredevil descending is not your thing, just get a compact, with 48/34 and a 14/28 freewheel. Done. The rest of the 87 IM will work fine with that.
Last edited by Classtime; 03-04-20 at 09:51 AM.
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#12
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Wow. So many options to consider. Sounds like I could spend quite a few dollars on this project. Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. I love reading them all!
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What you need to do first is introduce yourself on the "Post your IM" thread that I just bumped. Figure out which way you want to go. That thread will search for deals and help you find them. We've all been there.
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We've all been to that thread or in that situation?
Yes, OP, all the fun IM pics are in that thread as well as a wealth of knowledge. Except for me. I know nothing and the guys don't kick me out.
Yes, OP, all the fun IM pics are in that thread as well as a wealth of knowledge. Except for me. I know nothing and the guys don't kick me out.
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Not an Ironman, but here's the 80's bike I'm going triple on. Was 2x7 Suntour Accushift with a 52/42 Ofmega crankset and 13-26 freewheel. New wheels, eBay on most stuff except for the Box O' Crap front derailleur, which opened the door to the whole idea.
Just getting ready to order the cassette, chain, and cables soon.
Just getting ready to order the cassette, chain, and cables soon.
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Mmmmm....
On the other hand, rode my Davidson today with a 48/36/24 triple and 12-34 eight speed cassette getting ready for Eroica, amd must say it was nice to have all of those gearing options, even if it is all friction shifted.
On the other hand, rode my Davidson today with a 48/36/24 triple and 12-34 eight speed cassette getting ready for Eroica, amd must say it was nice to have all of those gearing options, even if it is all friction shifted.
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#18
Death fork? Naaaah!!
Easy enough. This Sugino triple even used the same BB as the stock GPX cranks.
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You could spend quite a few dollars, but you could also get the job done inexpensively on C&V parts. Plenty of unloved triple cranks and long-cage rear derailleurs out there, waiting to be adopted.
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Hey fellas, especially you Ironman dudes. I have the 87 IM Expert with standard 52/42 biopace chainring with the small 6 speed freewheel. 11/24 I think. It's great on the flats but I'm wondering about switching to a triple crankset. I know I'll probably have to change just about everything from FD, RD, chain, cassette, and who knows what else. I just really want to ride this road bike and still have the gearing for hills. What about going with a double 50/34 compact with 11/32 cassette? Those of you who have that set up...how is it for hills? I rode the Chilly Hilly here in Seattle/Bainbridge Island, last week with my triple ring Sirrus flat bar bike. It was good for the hills but I really was wishing I had my road bike for the rest of the ride. Anyway...Let me know what you guys think. I'm open to suggestions.
#24
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My IM has the original 105 set on it. I am willing to acquire just about anything in order to make it a little better for hills. I'm not a downhill speed junkie, too old for that. I like the aesthetics of the compact double but am drawn to the versatility of the triple. That R3000 Sora is tempting.
#25
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