anama

I want to put
JAXPETY 48V 1000W Electric Bicycle Cycle E Bike 26" Front/Rear Wheel Ebike Hub Motor Conversion Kit Hub Motor Wheel on my Schwinn Adult Trike.
I bought the torque arm too.
Some body know if this have a safe torque. How do I know the torque in this engine?

fietsbob

halves the battery life..

Doc_Wui

People sell these things too per this review. Maybe I'll want one in a few years.

Spend $20 and add a second torque arm. I would. Be twice as safe for the cost of a pizza/beer. Per a video I saw on youtube. the forks don't look too thin on a Schwinn.

youtube.com/watch?v=GvvJ4DAGj6Q&list=PL2-iWLrqBJpVInHO-6PkqKub8xEFGsvcq&index=5

He doesn't have any torque arms at all and he built two e-trikes. Wild and crazy. If you watch his videos, you see a lot of wheel spin, which I've read is really hard on the forks when the wheel finally grabs. I wonder if he 's still riding them.

As far as power, a lot of these guys sell the same motor as 500W or 1000W. They use 48B to claim 1000W. I would think the Schwinn would be scary above 16 mph with its weak brake(s) and the trike's susceptibility to tip over. I'd run it on 36V if I had one.

By the way, read these amazon comments. One guy had a Schwinn trike and he wrecked his front fork. Others pack the electrics in a bag and melt wires. All kinds of bad stuff happens if you don't know what's going on.

CliffordK

Is this for accelerator controlled, or power assist mode?

I haven't used the E-Bike, but that seems like a LOT OF POWER.

I don't have a power meter on my bike, but looking at various calculated watts, and talking to people with them on a bike, 200 to 300W is a pretty hard effort for riding at 20+ MPH on the level, or pounding up a hill. My average power for riding is probably closer to 100W.

So, I would think 500W would be more than adequate for ordinary riding, as long as one isn't trying to set a new world speed record, and you're planning on at least some pedal input.

The advantage of going with a little higher power (but riding at lower power) is that a little redundancy isn't a bad thing, and potentially could reduce the chances of burning up your equipment.

A disadvantage might be more weight than would be needed.

Of course, if one gets the calculations wrong, a bit of extra capacity might be nice.

Nelson37

One would be a bad idea for that trike, the other would be suicide-aly bad judgement.

Dunbar

The controller is what determines how much power gets sent to the motor. The nominal motor wattage ratings don’t tell you much. My Juiced Bikes Cross Current has a 350W Bafang motor but the controller will send 600-700W continuous to the motor on the highest assist level. I don’t consider 1000W a lot either. 1500W+ is when you start feeling like you’re on an electric scooter. But even that depends on how the power is delivered. A good PAS starts to pull power gradually at ~28mph (for class 3 street legal e-bikes) which rides quite a bit different than a BBSHD cranked up to 30 amps running unrestricted.

MikeyMK

I only have one torque arm and exceed 1,900 watts every day. My tip for fitting them is to torque the bolts up with the arm held against the axle, so the axle is already pushed (almost pre-loaded) against the torque arm before the axle even tries to twist.

Also, remove all avenues of potential failure. Bolting the torque arm to a flimsy reflector bracket isn't gonna cut the mustard - mine is actually bolted straight into the side of a rear disc adaptor, which is then bolted into the vast 7005 ally rear drop-out. The direction of load is all well calculated, though.