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Replacing aluminum fork w/ composite, switching from theaded to threadless

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Replacing aluminum fork w/ composite, switching from theaded to threadless

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Old 10-06-13, 06:59 PM
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bres dad
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Replacing aluminum fork w/ composite, switching from theaded to threadless

This may be an obvious question but want to make sure I know what I'm getting into before I do this.) We have an older Trek 2100 that I'm wanting to replace the stock aluminum fork with a Reynolds composite 1 1/8 threadless fork. I assume I will have to change out the headset. I've already got stems, spacers, cap & pretty much everything else I'd need. I've never changed out headset before. I assume I'll probably need to take it to a LBS to have them change out the headset as I don't have a press. What else do I need to be aware of for this?
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Old 10-06-13, 07:15 PM
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you might wanna check that headtube/fork/size.
a model name which used for a lot of years
early stuff was 1" threaded, later years were 1 1/8 threadless (with crapon fork)...
if it's 1" you'll need a 1" headset and 1" fork

when you have the right stuff, yes, go to a good LBS and have them install the cups and race.
could be done with simple tools - but better to not screw it up - watch them do it...
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Old 10-06-13, 09:53 PM
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damn... 1" diameter. Back to square one.
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Old 10-06-13, 10:12 PM
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Just a heads up there are 1" threadless headsets and forks. Just hard finding stems.
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Old 10-06-13, 11:16 PM
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vast majority of threadless stems are 1 1/8, an adaptor sleeve is used to work with 1" steerer.
Sleeves are commonly available at most any lbs or online - some are overpriced, all are the same.
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Old 10-07-13, 06:06 AM
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I actually might just shelve the idea of replacing the fork for now as I'd rather invest the $$ in other upgrades on other bikes or replace the 2100 all together. My wife has been talking about wanting a new bike so we may go that route and Christmas is around the corner. Since I'm looking into the idea, I may replace the steel fork on my old Paramount. Its already using a threadless stem adapter. Plus I've replaced/upgraded about everything else on it so it would really make more sense to do that one between the two.
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Old 10-07-13, 06:33 AM
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Unless you're a hot-rodder like me, you're probably best off leaving older bikes mostly original... a set of modern wheels and brifters/RD is plenty of upgrade for a nice old bike. Dual-pivot front brake is a good idea.

If you want a bike with threadless and external BB and fat bars and all that cool stuff, you're best off buying a modern bike IMO.
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Old 10-07-13, 06:52 AM
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The bike is a borderline hot rod. Its an older Paramount PDG Series 3. Previous owner ripped off the stock 7 speed RX100 and put on 8 speed Dura Ace. I replaced the down tube shifters with brifters, put on the theadless stem & adapter and recently replaced the stock Araya rims with some 24 spoke Bontragers. The rims don't affect the way it rides or handles (at least not that I can tell) but look way cooler. Also put on a new Selle Itallia saddle. It has stock rX100 dual pivot brakes on it. If I can find matching dual pivot DA's cheap enough I'll replace them to match the drive train but not really on the replace list. See attached for shot of Paramount.
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Old 10-07-13, 10:25 AM
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I did the same thing with a 1998 Raleigh 600. The carbon fork made a huge difference in ride quality. My hands and shoulders felt much better after a long ride so it wasn't definitely worth the money to complete the upgrade. I did use 1 1/8" stem with a shim. It worked fine and was pretty inexpensive.
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Old 10-07-13, 01:24 PM
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I used to have one of the original Trek 2000s, glued aluminum frames. I always thought the frame was great, but the aluminum fork sucked, especially in appearance. A nice 1" carbon fork would be a big improvement for your frame. I suggest you look at the Columbus Minimal Road Fork at wiggle.com. Decent price and very light weight. That combination is not easy to find in a 1" carbon fork these days.
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