What size tire for 1973 Schwinn 26" wheel?
08-14-23, 05:06 PM
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What size tire for 1973 Schwinn 26" wheel?
Someone was telling me vintage Schwinns have a proprietary size tire? Are tires still available for 1973 Schwinn Collegiate with 26" stock wheels? What do i look for? Thanks.
08-14-23, 05:22 PM
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The proprietary size for Schwinn bikes of this era was labeled as 26" x 1 3/8" (or sometimes 26" x 1 1/4" x 1 3/8"). The confusing part is that other brands also had 26" x 1 3/8" wheels, but they are different.
The Schwinns are ISO 597, which means the inside edge of the tire is 597 mm in diameter. The Schwinn wheel size may also be called S-6.
Other brands such as Huffy and Raleigh were ISO 590, so they are slightly smaller.
There are still a couple of tire manufacturers that make the Schwinn tires. You can find them online, or at a bike shop that services old bikes.
The Schwinns are ISO 597, which means the inside edge of the tire is 597 mm in diameter. The Schwinn wheel size may also be called S-6.
Other brands such as Huffy and Raleigh were ISO 590, so they are slightly smaller.
There are still a couple of tire manufacturers that make the Schwinn tires. You can find them online, or at a bike shop that services old bikes.
08-14-23, 05:23 PM
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Schwinn used S-6 tires; 26 x 1 1/4" / 1 3/8" (597 ISO). Those were different from 26 x 1 3/8" (590 ISO).
There are still a few brands like Kenda and Sunlite, offering 597 ISO tires.
There are still a few brands like Kenda and Sunlite, offering 597 ISO tires.
08-14-23, 05:23 PM
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26 x 1 3/8” to fit Schwinn S-6 rim. The only tires available now are made by Kenda and they have a reputation for being hard to seat.
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08-14-23, 05:54 PM
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By the way, Schwinn also made bikes that used other sizes of tires, so it is best if you can find the size on the old tires, or sometimes it is inscribed in the metal rim. Some of the other sizes are proprietary and some are common. If you can't find the information on the tire or the rim, you can measure the diameter of the rims and it will be slightly bigger than the ISO size.
But for 1973, the 597s would be the most common.
But for 1973, the 597s would be the most common.
08-14-23, 07:08 PM
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To add on to what albrt said, it makes a difference whether you are talking about lightweights like a Collegiate or Racer (26x1 3/8) or older middleweights like Phantom, Jaguar, or Excelsior (26x2.125).
Schwinn also had proprietary sizes on 20 and 24 inch kid's bikes. Their 10 speed bikes with 27 inch wheels used the same ISO 630 size as the rest of the industry.
Here is a chart to break in all down: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
Schwinn also had proprietary sizes on 20 and 24 inch kid's bikes. Their 10 speed bikes with 27 inch wheels used the same ISO 630 size as the rest of the industry.
Here is a chart to break in all down: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
08-14-23, 07:12 PM
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To add on to what albrt said, it makes a difference whether you are talking about lightweights like a Collegiate or Racer (26x1 3/8) or older middleweights like Phantom, Jaguar, or Excelsior (26x2.125).
Schwinn also had proprietary sizes on 20 and 24 inch kid's bikes. Their 10 speed bikes with 27 inch wheels used the same ISO 630 size as the rest of the industry.
Here is a chart to break in all down: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
Schwinn also had proprietary sizes on 20 and 24 inch kid's bikes. Their 10 speed bikes with 27 inch wheels used the same ISO 630 size as the rest of the industry.
Here is a chart to break in all down: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
08-14-23, 10:17 PM
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I had no issues seating these, but they were old British rims on a Raleigh Lenton Sport. One would think with all the old Schwines and Brit 3 speeds, there would be more choice. I will admit to being spoiled with the high zoot tires I have on most of my bikes, but these Kendas don't even look good IMO.
08-14-23, 10:45 PM
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If you don't want to worry about proprietary Schwinn tire sizes, it's pretty easy to swap a 597 wheel for a 590 wheel. Visually it's hard to tell them apart, and it's only about a 3 mm adjustment to the brake calipers. The tire choices for 590s are a little better, but nowhere near the variety available for mountain bike 26" wheels (iso 559) or 700/29" wheels (iso 622). Unfortunately it is more difficult to convert an old 590 or 597 bike to 559 or 622 because it's a bigger size difference.
If it's really a 26" x 1.5" that might be a 559, which is the same as a mountain bike. Some older Schwinns were that size, but not many in 1973. Maybe the Heavi-duty or the Typhoon?
08-15-23, 03:55 AM
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Are you looking for tires or wheels?
If you don't want to worry about proprietary Schwinn tire sizes, it's pretty easy to swap a 597 wheel for a 590 wheel. Visually it's hard to tell them apart, and it's only about a 3 mm adjustment to the brake calipers. The tire choices for 590s are a little better, but nowhere near the variety available for mountain bike 26" wheels (iso 559) or 700/29" wheels (iso 622). Unfortunately it is more difficult to convert an old 590 or 597 bike to 559 or 622 because it's a bigger size difference.
If it's really a 26" x 1.5" that might be a 559, which is the same as a mountain bike. Some older Schwinns were that size, but not many in 1973. Maybe the Heavi-duty or the Typhoon?
If you don't want to worry about proprietary Schwinn tire sizes, it's pretty easy to swap a 597 wheel for a 590 wheel. Visually it's hard to tell them apart, and it's only about a 3 mm adjustment to the brake calipers. The tire choices for 590s are a little better, but nowhere near the variety available for mountain bike 26" wheels (iso 559) or 700/29" wheels (iso 622). Unfortunately it is more difficult to convert an old 590 or 597 bike to 559 or 622 because it's a bigger size difference.
If it's really a 26" x 1.5" that might be a 559, which is the same as a mountain bike. Some older Schwinns were that size, but not many in 1973. Maybe the Heavi-duty or the Typhoon?
08-15-23, 05:48 AM
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08-15-23, 06:08 AM
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Last edited by BikePower; 08-15-23 at 06:12 AM.
08-15-23, 06:55 AM
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Those rims are too small for that bike. You need to get a bigger rim.
What model bike do you have? If you know the model of bike, you can look up what wheels it originally came with.
A standard 26 inch mountain bike rim seats 559mm.
A Schwinn middleweight is 571mm.
A regular British 3-speedis 590mm.
Sportier British bikes and the Schwinn 3-speeds are 597mm.
Very old (1940s and earlier) US-made "lightweight" bikes are 599mm.
A common 700c wheel is 622mm.
The 27 x 1 1/4 road wheel is 630mm.
If the rim you're using varies more than a few mm from what the bike is set up for, you may run into issues getting the rim to line up with the brake caliper arms. That's the problem with your 559mm rim - it's small than the rim the bike would have had originally.
You need to get a correct set of wheels for that bike. The wheels will be larger than that 559mm you have now. From the look of it, that will have to be substantially larger.
What model bike do you have? If you know the model of bike, you can look up what wheels it originally came with.
A standard 26 inch mountain bike rim seats 559mm.
A Schwinn middleweight is 571mm.
A regular British 3-speedis 590mm.
Sportier British bikes and the Schwinn 3-speeds are 597mm.
Very old (1940s and earlier) US-made "lightweight" bikes are 599mm.
A common 700c wheel is 622mm.
The 27 x 1 1/4 road wheel is 630mm.
If the rim you're using varies more than a few mm from what the bike is set up for, you may run into issues getting the rim to line up with the brake caliper arms. That's the problem with your 559mm rim - it's small than the rim the bike would have had originally.
You need to get a correct set of wheels for that bike. The wheels will be larger than that 559mm you have now. From the look of it, that will have to be substantially larger.
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08-15-23, 07:26 AM
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Those rims are too small for that bike. You need to get a bigger rim.
What model bike do you have? If you know the model of bike, you can look up what wheels it originally came with.
A standard 26 inch mountain bike rim seats 559mm.
A Schwinn middleweight is 571mm.
A regular British 3-speedis 590mm.
Sportier British bikes and the Schwinn 3-speeds are 597mm.
Very old (1940s and earlier) US-made "lightweight" bikes are 599mm.
A common 700c wheel is 622mm.
The 27 x 1 1/4 road wheel is 630mm.
If the rim you're using varies more than a few mm from what the bike is set up for, you may run into issues getting the rim to line up with the brake caliper arms. That's the problem with your 559mm rim - it's small than the rim the bike would have had originally.
You need to get a correct set of wheels for that bike. The wheels will be larger than that 559mm you have now. From the look of it, that will have to be substantially larger.
What model bike do you have? If you know the model of bike, you can look up what wheels it originally came with.
A standard 26 inch mountain bike rim seats 559mm.
A Schwinn middleweight is 571mm.
A regular British 3-speedis 590mm.
Sportier British bikes and the Schwinn 3-speeds are 597mm.
Very old (1940s and earlier) US-made "lightweight" bikes are 599mm.
A common 700c wheel is 622mm.
The 27 x 1 1/4 road wheel is 630mm.
If the rim you're using varies more than a few mm from what the bike is set up for, you may run into issues getting the rim to line up with the brake caliper arms. That's the problem with your 559mm rim - it's small than the rim the bike would have had originally.
You need to get a correct set of wheels for that bike. The wheels will be larger than that 559mm you have now. From the look of it, that will have to be substantially larger.
08-15-23, 07:36 AM
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08-15-23, 08:15 AM
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If you want to try 590s, it might be close enough if the calipers have a little extra reach in them. I've made exactly that conversion before on a couple of bikes, but they were somewhat earlier Schwinns (Sun CR-18s on 40s-50s Schwinns I built for my wife, who eventually bought a modern bike and gave up on anything vintage). I'd look for a set of Sun CR-18s in 590mm if you want a more modern rim. The British steel 3 speed rims are also good, but you have to like steel rims to spend the time and money of building with them.
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08-15-23, 09:25 AM
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If you want to try 590s, it might be close enough if the calipers have a little extra reach in them. I've made exactly that conversion before on a couple of bikes, but they were somewhat earlier Schwinns (Sun CR-18s on 40s-50s Schwinns I built for my wife, who eventually bought a modern bike and gave up on anything vintage). I'd look for a set of Sun CR-18s in 590mm if you want a more modern rim. The British steel 3 speed rims are also good, but you have to like steel rims to spend the time and money of building with them.
08-15-23, 10:14 AM
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The hubs will work if the spoke count matches and the bearing surfaces are in good shape. Don't cheap out and put rusty old spokes on a new wheel build, that's being penny wise and pound foolish. Run a spoke calc for your length and get a good set of new stainless spokes (Sapim or DT Swiss regular straights will work fine). Then build your own wheels. You can't do this economically if you're paying a shop to do this work, and it's borderline expensive even if you're doing your own work.
Otherwise, clean up your stock wheels and run Kenda tires on them. They're a pain to seat initially but just a touch of soapy water pops them into place. They're kind of indifferent quality tires. Schwalbe and Panaracer make better tires but they still beat the Duro and no-name ultra-cheap tires.
Otherwise, clean up your stock wheels and run Kenda tires on them. They're a pain to seat initially but just a touch of soapy water pops them into place. They're kind of indifferent quality tires. Schwalbe and Panaracer make better tires but they still beat the Duro and no-name ultra-cheap tires.
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08-15-23, 10:22 AM
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Either find a good-quality original Schwinn 1 3/8" front wheel or sell the bike on to another poor soul for $10.
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08-15-23, 06:28 PM
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Those rims are too small for that bike. You need to get a bigger rim.
What model bike do you have? If you know the model of bike, you can look up what wheels it originally came with.
A standard 26 inch mountain bike rim seats 559mm.
A Schwinn middleweight is 571mm.
A regular British 3-speedis 590mm.
Sportier British bikes and the Schwinn 3-speeds are 597mm.
Very old (1940s and earlier) US-made "lightweight" bikes are 599mm.
A common 700c wheel is 622mm.
The 27 x 1 1/4 road wheel is 630mm.
If the rim you're using varies more than a few mm from what the bike is set up for, you may run into issues getting the rim to line up with the brake caliper arms. That's the problem with your 559mm rim - it's small than the rim the bike would have had originally.
You need to get a correct set of wheels for that bike. The wheels will be larger than that 559mm you have now. From the look of it, that will have to be substantially larger.
What model bike do you have? If you know the model of bike, you can look up what wheels it originally came with.
A standard 26 inch mountain bike rim seats 559mm.
A Schwinn middleweight is 571mm.
A regular British 3-speedis 590mm.
Sportier British bikes and the Schwinn 3-speeds are 597mm.
Very old (1940s and earlier) US-made "lightweight" bikes are 599mm.
A common 700c wheel is 622mm.
The 27 x 1 1/4 road wheel is 630mm.
If the rim you're using varies more than a few mm from what the bike is set up for, you may run into issues getting the rim to line up with the brake caliper arms. That's the problem with your 559mm rim - it's small than the rim the bike would have had originally.
You need to get a correct set of wheels for that bike. The wheels will be larger than that 559mm you have now. From the look of it, that will have to be substantially larger.
Dia Compe DC810
and go with the 559 mountain bike rims with the hybrid 1.5" tires in blackwall. My only concern is the front fork is slightly splayed with the mountain bike rims in there because the hub is a little wider than stock. These are nice alloy wheels, I paid $20 this morning for the whole bike Trek 820 old model. All I need is the tires and the calipers. The 5 speed shifts smoothly through all 6 sprockets on the freewheel. I wonder how much shorter the 559 is with the 1.5 tires compared to the 597 with the stock 1 3/8" tires. I would need to know the sidewall height of both tires which I do not.
they are actually pretty close when i lower the shoes all the way.
Last edited by BikePower; 08-15-23 at 06:33 PM.
08-15-23, 06:40 PM
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I think im going to get some long reach Dia Comp calipers
Dia Compe DC810
and go with the 559 mountain bike rims with the hybrid 1.5" tires in blackwall. My only concern is the front fork is slightly splayed with the mountain bike rims in there because the hub is a little wider than stock. These are nice alloy wheels, I paid $20 this morning for the whole bike Trek 820 old model. All I need is the tires and the calipers. The 5 speed shifts smoothly through all 6 sprockets on the freewheel. I wonder how much shorter the 559 is with the 1.5 tires compared to the 597 with the stock 1 3/8" tires. I would need to know the sidewall height of both tires which I do not.
they are actually pretty close when i lower the shoes all the way.
Dia Compe DC810
and go with the 559 mountain bike rims with the hybrid 1.5" tires in blackwall. My only concern is the front fork is slightly splayed with the mountain bike rims in there because the hub is a little wider than stock. These are nice alloy wheels, I paid $20 this morning for the whole bike Trek 820 old model. All I need is the tires and the calipers. The 5 speed shifts smoothly through all 6 sprockets on the freewheel. I wonder how much shorter the 559 is with the 1.5 tires compared to the 597 with the stock 1 3/8" tires. I would need to know the sidewall height of both tires which I do not.
they are actually pretty close when i lower the shoes all the way.
If I was doing what you're doing, on a bike I'd wanna ride a lot, I'd go with 584 rims/tires. Maybe some Gravel King 27.5 x 1.5" for tires. It can be tough to find the appropriate wheels if you're not a wheelbuilder though.
08-15-23, 07:15 PM
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Is this for a flip or a personal rider?
If I was doing what you're doing, on a bike I'd wanna ride a lot, I'd go with 584 rims/tires. Maybe some Gravel King 27.5 x 1.5" for tires. It can be tough to find the appropriate wheels if you're not a wheelbuilder though.
If I was doing what you're doing, on a bike I'd wanna ride a lot, I'd go with 584 rims/tires. Maybe some Gravel King 27.5 x 1.5" for tires. It can be tough to find the appropriate wheels if you're not a wheelbuilder though.
08-15-23, 08:25 PM
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this is a rider for myself. What donor bikes would have the 584 wheels with 5 or 6 gear freewheel or could take my schwinn freewheel? I realize that 597 the original wheel is about 1.5" taller than the 559 but with the taller gravel tire maybe it wouldnt create too much pedal to ground clearance issues. This might actually work.
08-15-23, 08:52 PM
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650B (584 mm) Conversions for Road Bikes (sheldonbrown.com)
08-15-23, 09:43 PM
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Bike Power:
As you know, your 1973 COLLEGIATE has the 597mm "Schwinn Only* " 26 X 1 3/8 wheels . (YOU HAVE Weinmann sidepulls that say L.S. 2.8)
* well Ancient obscure early 1950's British club bicycles once shared this 597mm bead seat diameter BUT FOR PRACTICAL REASONS FROM THE SIXTIES & SEVENTIES ONWARD THE 597mm SIZE has Been Considered To Be Exclusive To CHICAGO made bikes such as the COLLEGIATE/BREEZE/SPEEDSTER/RACER/60's era TRAVELER/CO-ED/ and many other name 26 597mm variants from at least 1950 through 1982.
+++SHOULD YOU WISH TO CHANGE TO 27 Inch (630mm) 27 x 1 1/4 wheels, YOU WILL HAVE TO CHANGE TO THE Weinman L.S. 2.4 fromVARSITY/SUBURBAN.
The Weinman L.S. 2.8 sidepulls are EXACTLY THE SAME UNITS as the Weinman 810 (REASON IS Schwinn incorporated its own identification code in 1969.)
Prior to the 1969 year models, for 1968 models and earlier Collegiates....etc......Weinman 810 was stamped there on the sidepulls, but for 1969 and later Collegiates, there is the Schwinn specific internal identification code, L.S. 2.8
The VARSITY in 1968 has Weinman 730 sidepulls, but for 1969 & later VARSITY / SUBURBAN models, the same EXACT sidepulls are stamped L.S. 2.4
The internal Schwinn code has a meaning but it isn't a singular number measurement as you might guess that 2.8 or 2.4 to be.
Okay, if anyone wants to know:
L = "lightweight".................. S = sidepull brakes
Here is the somewhat funky way Schwinn used that numerical coding:
-----The DISTANCE From the Center Position of the MOUNTING SLOT ............
-----------the Number to the left ...........THE TWO ( 2 ) equals two inches BUT WAIT BECAUSE YOU GOTTA calculate the code number to the right of decimal..
***********************What Looks Like It Might Be "tenths" IS NOT................................you gotta MULTIPLY each of what appears to be "tenths" by 3/32
I TOLD YOU IT MIGHT SEEM FUNKY.....
You see each of those that seem to be "tenths" at the right of the DOT or decimal or period...whatever you call it-------EACH OF THOSE "tenths" represents 3/32 of an inch
*************So For EXAMPLE the L.S. 2.8 (also known as Weinman 810) would be 2 24/32 inches from the CENTER OF THE MOUNTING BOLT to the CENTER OF THE MOUNTING SLOT..........................you got that.....Don't You ................the TWO (at Left of the DOT) = two inches...........EIGHT (at RIGHT of the DOT) so you take EIGHT and multiply by 3/32 = 24/32..........................................you know from elementary school that 2 24/32 = 2 3/4 inches
#########..So For EXAMPLE the L.S. 2.4 (also known as Weinman 730) would be 2 12/32 inches from CENTER OF THE MOUNTING BOLT to the CENTER OF THE MOUNTING SLOT.........................................you know from elementary school that 2 12/32 = 2 3/8 inches
***************************YOU COULD CHANGE TO A USED ALUMINUM 27" (630mm) Wheelset in good condition from any number of Seventies & Early Eighties bikes.
You can still purchase NEW 27" (630mm) Wheelsets, but if you're gonna do that, you may as well just purchase a NEW 700C (622mm ) wheelset....
You could also go retro and go to the COMMON "Everybody Else's" (590mm) 26 X 1 3/8 wheels.........."EVERYBODY ELSE'S" means everybody except Schwinn!!!
-----------------------The Varsity/Suburban L.S. 2.4 brakes (also known as Weinman 730) SHOULD ALLOW USING THE 700C (622mm) wheels or 27" (630mm) wheels as factory fitted to the VARSITY/SUBURBAN/CONTINENTAL or other 27" (630mm) wheel bicycle.
...........The Collegiate's L.S. 2.8 brakes (also known as Weinman 810) should allow for using THE COMMON-EVERYBODY ELSE's 590mm 26 X 1 3/8 wheels instead of the Schwinn S5/S6 597mm 26 X 1 3/8 wheels.
Don't worry why the hell that Schwinn referred to them as both S5 and S6 wheels. I seem to recall if I am not mistaken that because of a purely cosmetic visual difference. One is the WESTRICK style and one is the ENDRICK style...................both are fundamentally exactly the SAME in FUNCTIONALITY as they differ in appearance only....................YOU SEE UP THRU SOME POINT IN THE Model Year 1972, the COLLEGIATE's Wheels have a raised RIDGE that is about the width of a pencil or the width of the drinking straw that you get with a Coke from McDonalds....................this raised RIDGE area is located in the center of the rim nearest where spokes mount.........................THEY CHANGED TO A WHEEL APPEARANCE THAT HAS A FLAT SMOOTH AREA there some time in 1972 model year.
The '72 and earlier raised Ridge is designated S5 and the mid '72 and later is S6..........actually one designates Westrick style and the other designates Endrick style.... DESPITE THIS, THE WHEELS ARE EXACTLY FUNCTIONALLY THE SAME !!! .....and 597mm Schwinn ONLY 26 x 1 3/8 chromed steel wheels WHICH ARE EXTREMELY DIFFICULT FOR A NOVICE 1st TIMER TO MOUNT the New 597mm TIRES that only KENDA manufactures today.
The 597mm new tires have historically been a "difficult BEAR" to mount even going back 50+ years when numerous tire manufacturers manufactured this Schwinn ONLY tire size. ***By Difficult to MOUNT, I do mean getting the TIRE mounted evenly...................YOU MAY WISH TO Try using WINDEX or perhaps a tiny bit of dishwashing liquid TO AID IN SEATING THE TIRES EVENLY. -----------------------....I STRONGLY SUGGEST THAT YOU CONSIDER TAKING YOUR Collegiate etc with 597mm Wheels TO YOUR LOCAL BIKE SHOP ALONG WITH YOUR New Kenda 597mm 26 x 1 3/8 (37-597) TIRES and NEW THORN RESISTANT 26 x 1 3/8 INNERTUBES with Schrader valve stem of approximately 35mm height (XLC brand....made in Taiwan.......UPC Code 4 032191 777047 are the best Thorn Resistant 26 X 1 3/8 bicycle tubes that I have purchased anywhere and at any price during the past 30 years...............they were relatively inexpensive and I bought 24 NEW tubes from a major online seller in Nov 2019 ....I can't recall which supplier and it may have come from Taiwan via their Ebay store. I rebuilt about nine or ten bikes in Nov 2019 which I donated around Thanksgiving 2019 and early December. Buy thorn resistant tubes.......don't waste your money using tire liner (protectors) and super thin lightweight Bontrager or other thin lightweight tubes................A Schwinn already has weight to it, so it sure as hell ain't a racing bike, so put the strongest, longest lasting tube in it!!!...............Pay the very reasonable, nominal LABOR CHARGE for your Local Bike Shop to INSTALL THESE TIRES if you're a greenhorn novice BECAUSE YOU SURE AS HELL DON'T WANNA RUIN THE WIRE BEAD WHILE TRYING TO GO LIKE KING KONG, GORILLA LIKE WRANGLING IT AND DESTROYING IT DURING THE PROCESS!!! There are Youtube tutorials showing how to but BE FOREWARNED that despite the best tutorials out there on youtube, THIS WILL STILL BE A BEAR TO GET MOUNTED & SEATED EVENLY!!!
If you don't have thorns or goatheads in your area and you ride where the roads are clean, even the really lightweight Bontrager tubes will work fine.
Be sure to lightly and slowly move your finger along the inside of the rim to FEEL for sharp edges and sharp edges from rust/corrosion or whatever........smooth with very fine sand paper/emery cloth IF SO. Don't expect the Bike Shop to do that because that likely will require an additional Labor charge..
Hey, if you love PRESTA valves and perhaps you have PRESTA on all of your other bicycles, YOU CAN IF YOU WISH USE A COMPAREABLE-Compatible SIZED PRESTA tube...............YOU WILL NEED TO USE THE THREADED SCREW DOWN WASHER-nut THAT COMES WITH THOSE Presta INNER TUBES.
Other than that, it will work fine. I have a '72 Kool Lemon colored Collegiate that has PRESTA valve tubes on the stock chrome steel Schwinn 597mm wheels with KENDA (37-597) 26 X 1 3/8 tires. All of my other Collegiates and Suburbans have normal Schrader valve innertubes. Some ordinary and some with thorn resistant tubes, heck I can't remember which has what. On the bikes that I rebuild exclusively to DONATE to folks needing a bike for daily transportation, I will install new thorn resistant tubes..... I can easily repair anything myself but less fortunate folks that need something as bulletproof as possible to rely on as their only means of transportation will need something durable due to their lack of funds.
**** One bit of very important advice, GET TWO PAIRS of QUALITY New BRAKE PADS........perhaps the red colored material pads......Kool Stops......also the Sunlight Economy Red colored pads on Amazon for about $10 might not be terrible but if you get those Sunlight pads from Amazon, you need to keep your existing washer from your current pads because the washer that comes with them, that mounts below the acorn nut is an inadequate POS. You can find similar pads with better washers etc at likely better prices than Amazon by searching for New replacement Schwinn Stingray brake pads on the bay, or 40mm bicycle brake pads...
If the bike hasn't been ridden in 40+ years, you should clean and re-grease the two #64 (Number 64) caged bearings for the crank......your bottom bracket bearings.....
......................A 12 inch / 300mm nine dollar el-cheapo steel Crescent wrench from Harbor Freight or Walmart...............you need the 12 inch (300mm) version because its jaws will open wide enough to fit the NUT on the left side of the ONE PIECE CRANK..................beyond that, you need a ordinary Flathead screwdriver which you already have.................you need a wrench that can remove the Left side pedal, and you need to remove the front attaching bolt for the SCHWINN COLLEGIATE chainguard..............NO NEED TO REMOVE THE REAR MOUNTING, JUST THE FRONT ATTACHING BOLT OF THE CHAINGUARD.......then pivot it up and towards the rear so that you can REMOVE THE 1 Piece Crank,........and To Allow Re-Assembly......................
Formula 87, the same thing that powers your Briggs & Stratton engine on your lawnmower, is the most effective cleaner for the bearings.....cut two Coke cans in half and then use the cans to soak/drown the bearings in just enough formula 87 to do the job........Do this outside, away from buildings, away from pets, away from children, away from sparks, open flames, etc.... ....................GREEN GREASE......a synthetic water resistant grease that you can buy in a 14oz plastic tube catridge that you can open and recap with aluminum foil and rubber bands...........spoon out whatever generous amount that will be more than enough.....use a plastic spoon from say McDonalds or KFC and wear rubber surgical gloves because this synthetic water proof grease is very difficult to wash off of your hands......GREEN GREASE is a trademarked brand name, made in Texas, and is the best grease that you can buy......other similar competitors' synthetic water resistant greases are equally good if they are in the same section of your local NAPA/ADVANCE/AUTO ZONE/O'REILLY'S/CAR QUEST etc.......... Cost should be about $12 for a 14 oz grease cartridge that resembles the size of one of those Minute Maid frozen orange juice concentrate containers from the 1970's.
Just clean and regrease the crank bearings......................you can also use the same GREEN GREASE synthetic.... to grease your headset/front fork bearings...
As for the freewheel you can DRIP clean FRESH automotive motor oil......whatever one of your cars takes is fine....the exact weight and brand isn't material...
You can also cheat like this for your axle bearings via motor oil drip instead of taking it apart....... It works perfectly fine.
Use a golf tee or a nail or something to let the oil drip off of into where it needs to go....
Stay Thin, Ride A Schwinn............that heavy steel bike will give you a better workout and you'll enjoy the stable, comfortable Cadillac / Rolls Royce like ride quality!
As you know, your 1973 COLLEGIATE has the 597mm "Schwinn Only* " 26 X 1 3/8 wheels . (YOU HAVE Weinmann sidepulls that say L.S. 2.8)
* well Ancient obscure early 1950's British club bicycles once shared this 597mm bead seat diameter BUT FOR PRACTICAL REASONS FROM THE SIXTIES & SEVENTIES ONWARD THE 597mm SIZE has Been Considered To Be Exclusive To CHICAGO made bikes such as the COLLEGIATE/BREEZE/SPEEDSTER/RACER/60's era TRAVELER/CO-ED/ and many other name 26 597mm variants from at least 1950 through 1982.
+++SHOULD YOU WISH TO CHANGE TO 27 Inch (630mm) 27 x 1 1/4 wheels, YOU WILL HAVE TO CHANGE TO THE Weinman L.S. 2.4 fromVARSITY/SUBURBAN.
The Weinman L.S. 2.8 sidepulls are EXACTLY THE SAME UNITS as the Weinman 810 (REASON IS Schwinn incorporated its own identification code in 1969.)
Prior to the 1969 year models, for 1968 models and earlier Collegiates....etc......Weinman 810 was stamped there on the sidepulls, but for 1969 and later Collegiates, there is the Schwinn specific internal identification code, L.S. 2.8
The VARSITY in 1968 has Weinman 730 sidepulls, but for 1969 & later VARSITY / SUBURBAN models, the same EXACT sidepulls are stamped L.S. 2.4
The internal Schwinn code has a meaning but it isn't a singular number measurement as you might guess that 2.8 or 2.4 to be.
Okay, if anyone wants to know:
L = "lightweight".................. S = sidepull brakes
Here is the somewhat funky way Schwinn used that numerical coding:
-----The DISTANCE From the Center Position of the MOUNTING SLOT ............
-----------the Number to the left ...........THE TWO ( 2 ) equals two inches BUT WAIT BECAUSE YOU GOTTA calculate the code number to the right of decimal..
***********************What Looks Like It Might Be "tenths" IS NOT................................you gotta MULTIPLY each of what appears to be "tenths" by 3/32
I TOLD YOU IT MIGHT SEEM FUNKY.....
You see each of those that seem to be "tenths" at the right of the DOT or decimal or period...whatever you call it-------EACH OF THOSE "tenths" represents 3/32 of an inch
*************So For EXAMPLE the L.S. 2.8 (also known as Weinman 810) would be 2 24/32 inches from the CENTER OF THE MOUNTING BOLT to the CENTER OF THE MOUNTING SLOT..........................you got that.....Don't You ................the TWO (at Left of the DOT) = two inches...........EIGHT (at RIGHT of the DOT) so you take EIGHT and multiply by 3/32 = 24/32..........................................you know from elementary school that 2 24/32 = 2 3/4 inches
#########..So For EXAMPLE the L.S. 2.4 (also known as Weinman 730) would be 2 12/32 inches from CENTER OF THE MOUNTING BOLT to the CENTER OF THE MOUNTING SLOT.........................................you know from elementary school that 2 12/32 = 2 3/8 inches
***************************YOU COULD CHANGE TO A USED ALUMINUM 27" (630mm) Wheelset in good condition from any number of Seventies & Early Eighties bikes.
You can still purchase NEW 27" (630mm) Wheelsets, but if you're gonna do that, you may as well just purchase a NEW 700C (622mm ) wheelset....
You could also go retro and go to the COMMON "Everybody Else's" (590mm) 26 X 1 3/8 wheels.........."EVERYBODY ELSE'S" means everybody except Schwinn!!!
-----------------------The Varsity/Suburban L.S. 2.4 brakes (also known as Weinman 730) SHOULD ALLOW USING THE 700C (622mm) wheels or 27" (630mm) wheels as factory fitted to the VARSITY/SUBURBAN/CONTINENTAL or other 27" (630mm) wheel bicycle.
...........The Collegiate's L.S. 2.8 brakes (also known as Weinman 810) should allow for using THE COMMON-EVERYBODY ELSE's 590mm 26 X 1 3/8 wheels instead of the Schwinn S5/S6 597mm 26 X 1 3/8 wheels.
Don't worry why the hell that Schwinn referred to them as both S5 and S6 wheels. I seem to recall if I am not mistaken that because of a purely cosmetic visual difference. One is the WESTRICK style and one is the ENDRICK style...................both are fundamentally exactly the SAME in FUNCTIONALITY as they differ in appearance only....................YOU SEE UP THRU SOME POINT IN THE Model Year 1972, the COLLEGIATE's Wheels have a raised RIDGE that is about the width of a pencil or the width of the drinking straw that you get with a Coke from McDonalds....................this raised RIDGE area is located in the center of the rim nearest where spokes mount.........................THEY CHANGED TO A WHEEL APPEARANCE THAT HAS A FLAT SMOOTH AREA there some time in 1972 model year.
The '72 and earlier raised Ridge is designated S5 and the mid '72 and later is S6..........actually one designates Westrick style and the other designates Endrick style.... DESPITE THIS, THE WHEELS ARE EXACTLY FUNCTIONALLY THE SAME !!! .....and 597mm Schwinn ONLY 26 x 1 3/8 chromed steel wheels WHICH ARE EXTREMELY DIFFICULT FOR A NOVICE 1st TIMER TO MOUNT the New 597mm TIRES that only KENDA manufactures today.
The 597mm new tires have historically been a "difficult BEAR" to mount even going back 50+ years when numerous tire manufacturers manufactured this Schwinn ONLY tire size. ***By Difficult to MOUNT, I do mean getting the TIRE mounted evenly...................YOU MAY WISH TO Try using WINDEX or perhaps a tiny bit of dishwashing liquid TO AID IN SEATING THE TIRES EVENLY. -----------------------....I STRONGLY SUGGEST THAT YOU CONSIDER TAKING YOUR Collegiate etc with 597mm Wheels TO YOUR LOCAL BIKE SHOP ALONG WITH YOUR New Kenda 597mm 26 x 1 3/8 (37-597) TIRES and NEW THORN RESISTANT 26 x 1 3/8 INNERTUBES with Schrader valve stem of approximately 35mm height (XLC brand....made in Taiwan.......UPC Code 4 032191 777047 are the best Thorn Resistant 26 X 1 3/8 bicycle tubes that I have purchased anywhere and at any price during the past 30 years...............they were relatively inexpensive and I bought 24 NEW tubes from a major online seller in Nov 2019 ....I can't recall which supplier and it may have come from Taiwan via their Ebay store. I rebuilt about nine or ten bikes in Nov 2019 which I donated around Thanksgiving 2019 and early December. Buy thorn resistant tubes.......don't waste your money using tire liner (protectors) and super thin lightweight Bontrager or other thin lightweight tubes................A Schwinn already has weight to it, so it sure as hell ain't a racing bike, so put the strongest, longest lasting tube in it!!!...............Pay the very reasonable, nominal LABOR CHARGE for your Local Bike Shop to INSTALL THESE TIRES if you're a greenhorn novice BECAUSE YOU SURE AS HELL DON'T WANNA RUIN THE WIRE BEAD WHILE TRYING TO GO LIKE KING KONG, GORILLA LIKE WRANGLING IT AND DESTROYING IT DURING THE PROCESS!!! There are Youtube tutorials showing how to but BE FOREWARNED that despite the best tutorials out there on youtube, THIS WILL STILL BE A BEAR TO GET MOUNTED & SEATED EVENLY!!!
If you don't have thorns or goatheads in your area and you ride where the roads are clean, even the really lightweight Bontrager tubes will work fine.
Be sure to lightly and slowly move your finger along the inside of the rim to FEEL for sharp edges and sharp edges from rust/corrosion or whatever........smooth with very fine sand paper/emery cloth IF SO. Don't expect the Bike Shop to do that because that likely will require an additional Labor charge..
Hey, if you love PRESTA valves and perhaps you have PRESTA on all of your other bicycles, YOU CAN IF YOU WISH USE A COMPAREABLE-Compatible SIZED PRESTA tube...............YOU WILL NEED TO USE THE THREADED SCREW DOWN WASHER-nut THAT COMES WITH THOSE Presta INNER TUBES.
Other than that, it will work fine. I have a '72 Kool Lemon colored Collegiate that has PRESTA valve tubes on the stock chrome steel Schwinn 597mm wheels with KENDA (37-597) 26 X 1 3/8 tires. All of my other Collegiates and Suburbans have normal Schrader valve innertubes. Some ordinary and some with thorn resistant tubes, heck I can't remember which has what. On the bikes that I rebuild exclusively to DONATE to folks needing a bike for daily transportation, I will install new thorn resistant tubes..... I can easily repair anything myself but less fortunate folks that need something as bulletproof as possible to rely on as their only means of transportation will need something durable due to their lack of funds.
**** One bit of very important advice, GET TWO PAIRS of QUALITY New BRAKE PADS........perhaps the red colored material pads......Kool Stops......also the Sunlight Economy Red colored pads on Amazon for about $10 might not be terrible but if you get those Sunlight pads from Amazon, you need to keep your existing washer from your current pads because the washer that comes with them, that mounts below the acorn nut is an inadequate POS. You can find similar pads with better washers etc at likely better prices than Amazon by searching for New replacement Schwinn Stingray brake pads on the bay, or 40mm bicycle brake pads...
If the bike hasn't been ridden in 40+ years, you should clean and re-grease the two #64 (Number 64) caged bearings for the crank......your bottom bracket bearings.....
......................A 12 inch / 300mm nine dollar el-cheapo steel Crescent wrench from Harbor Freight or Walmart...............you need the 12 inch (300mm) version because its jaws will open wide enough to fit the NUT on the left side of the ONE PIECE CRANK..................beyond that, you need a ordinary Flathead screwdriver which you already have.................you need a wrench that can remove the Left side pedal, and you need to remove the front attaching bolt for the SCHWINN COLLEGIATE chainguard..............NO NEED TO REMOVE THE REAR MOUNTING, JUST THE FRONT ATTACHING BOLT OF THE CHAINGUARD.......then pivot it up and towards the rear so that you can REMOVE THE 1 Piece Crank,........and To Allow Re-Assembly......................
Formula 87, the same thing that powers your Briggs & Stratton engine on your lawnmower, is the most effective cleaner for the bearings.....cut two Coke cans in half and then use the cans to soak/drown the bearings in just enough formula 87 to do the job........Do this outside, away from buildings, away from pets, away from children, away from sparks, open flames, etc.... ....................GREEN GREASE......a synthetic water resistant grease that you can buy in a 14oz plastic tube catridge that you can open and recap with aluminum foil and rubber bands...........spoon out whatever generous amount that will be more than enough.....use a plastic spoon from say McDonalds or KFC and wear rubber surgical gloves because this synthetic water proof grease is very difficult to wash off of your hands......GREEN GREASE is a trademarked brand name, made in Texas, and is the best grease that you can buy......other similar competitors' synthetic water resistant greases are equally good if they are in the same section of your local NAPA/ADVANCE/AUTO ZONE/O'REILLY'S/CAR QUEST etc.......... Cost should be about $12 for a 14 oz grease cartridge that resembles the size of one of those Minute Maid frozen orange juice concentrate containers from the 1970's.
Just clean and regrease the crank bearings......................you can also use the same GREEN GREASE synthetic.... to grease your headset/front fork bearings...
As for the freewheel you can DRIP clean FRESH automotive motor oil......whatever one of your cars takes is fine....the exact weight and brand isn't material...
You can also cheat like this for your axle bearings via motor oil drip instead of taking it apart....... It works perfectly fine.
Use a golf tee or a nail or something to let the oil drip off of into where it needs to go....
Stay Thin, Ride A Schwinn............that heavy steel bike will give you a better workout and you'll enjoy the stable, comfortable Cadillac / Rolls Royce like ride quality!
Last edited by Vintage Schwinn; 08-15-23 at 10:06 PM.
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