TheJackMove

So it has come to that time in my life, as it does in every man's (and some women's), that I am going to make the investment in a power meter. I have an opportunity through my team's sponsor to order just about anything cheap. So my dilemma is this:

I think I am going to go with a PowerTap SL or SL 2.4, it seems to be the best bang for the buck, without getting into the totally astronomical price range. Problem is, what kind of wheel do I build it on? It is mostly a training tool, so I think training wheels might be the best way to go, but then it would be very useful to have the info form races as well. So what to do? Build it on a tubular Zipp 360? Or a 36 hole Open Pro?

Right now I am leaning towards splitting the difference and getting a 28 hole hub and building it on an open pro or DT rim(I am 155 lbs). That would be a wheel I can always train with, but probably won't slow me down too significantly in a race compared to anything else. And with 28 holes, I can always rebuild it later with something more carbony and aero like a 360 if I am not happy with it.

So what do you have? Show me your build and let me know what you are using it for (racing vs. training etc.), what the pros and cons are, and what you might change about it.

operator

Open pro... pfft.

waterrockets 

In that weight class, I prefer the Aerohead OC. For a given spoke count, it's going to be more durable than the symmetrical Open Pro and DT. Weight is about the same, and it will cost about $25 less.

I'm running a 32h AeroheadOC PowerTap for racing and training. I won on Sunday with it, so it doesn't slow me down much.

I built this nice set too: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=381303

operator

For a race wheelset you may want to consider a carbon rim like the Reynolds DV32 etc.

wfrogge

pshh you can race and win on a non aero non carbon wheel.... see post above.


I say go for a non carbon option.

operator

You voluntarily want to ride a slow wheelset why again?

TheJackMove

Because then I can train on it every day and not be concerned about having to purchase a new and very expensive rim if it gets damaged. Additionally, I prefer clinchers for training, as most sane people in this day and age who do not have team cars following them on training rides do.

Would I like to have a set of tubular SDV 66's with a PT for racing on flats and a set of KOM's with a PT for racing on mountains and a disc with a PT for TT's and be able to replace them as necessary? Yes. Will I be able to do this and remain married and a home owner? No.

So that leaves us back at my original question. The Aeroheads seem like a nice idea. I will check it out.

mloywhite

I got my Powertap built into a DT Swiss 1.2 rim, and the same rim with a Chris King front hub. Great, somewhat aero, tough wheels.

granticimo

I would say that unless you are loaded and can afford 2 hubs, 2 rears, go with a nice wheel set. I have the Reynolds DV32C with a powertap 2.4 and it works great for everyday riding and racing on the weekends. If you train with power, you HAVE to race with it to get the full benefits of what it is really a good tool for.

Ritterview

I'm fixing to get a Power Meter as well, but I am going to wait for the Quarq.

CCFISH81

That isn't going to die is it... Congrats again.. and again...

CCFISH81

Did my taxes tonight- Apparently the government didn't want to keep all the money they took, but wanted to give me a slight amount back.... Someone talk me into it.

waterrockets 

Thanks. I'll be hanging on to it as long as I can. I figure it bolsters the "it's not about the bike" argument.

Talk you into it? You know how much my power has gone up since I bought the PowerTap in December? You could give me a weightless bike with zero aero drag, no rolling resistance, and 100% drivetrain efficiency -- and the benefit wouldn't hold a candle to training with power.

Idioteque

wonder how much it would cost to put a powertap into my american classic 420 wheel. how much is wheel rebuilding these days?

TheJackMove

Make friends with a mechanic, but a book or two, and learn to do it yourself. That way you can put your PT on whatever you want, and if you don't like it, change it. The equipment is not that much if you just want the basic stuff (truing stand with dish gauge and tension meter).

The problem with waiting for the quark is the waiting (I don't want to be one of the 'paying beta testers') and the fact that by the time I change my drive train it will cost almost as much as a SRM, not to mention that I will end up with crappy cranks.

I have been considering a reynolds clincher, but I just don't think a clincer 32 gives that much of an aero advantage over a aluminum 24 to make it worth it. I would want at least a 44 if not the 66, and with the wind around here recently, I still don't believe that is a practical every day wheel.

Thanks for all the input.

carpediemracing 

You can always ride a tall rear rim. It acts more like a rudder, not a sail, and the only thing it does is make it a bit harder to turn. Yes it pushes you sideways a bit but not a lot. A tall front wheel in strong wind, that's a different story.

I told ridethecliche this but I'd go for the tallest wheel you can use and afford to train on. If you're in the same boat I was with the PT, you'll end up with only one wheel for racing and training with power. I absolutely want to race with power because I seem to exceed my normal abilities in a race, and I want to be able to see what I did under duress.

At 155 lbs you can easily ride a 24H rear wheel (tall rim) all the time, probably even a 20H. I'd wait a bit more and get something more aero. I'd also get something where the spoke nipples are supported in the carbon section, not the aluminum, because if the carbon section supports the rim then the carbon bit is structural. Nothing like getting a tall rim that has a dinky box section rim under it which is what actually deals with the stresses you dish out. I train on a 20H DV46c and I'm 170-175 lbs and although I exercise typical "massive pothole avoidance", I won't swerve for mere manhole covers or 1" ledges or less - I wouldn't want whoever's wheel I was on to do it either so I don't do it. Bad pack handling habit, to swerve. So I hit a lot of things, bunny hop those that are a bit bigger, and try to stay out of sewer grates and anything >2" deep.

If you buy a PT hub with the intent of rebuilding it, keep in mind that they won't warranty anything if you don't have the same number of spokes on each side with at least the equivalent angle of a 32 x2 pattern. Both sides of the hub needs to twist evenly to measure torque correctly, so no radial left and x2 right etc. I made the mistake of buying a 32H. Knowing about the twist thing, I'd get a 24H for myself if I had to go back to PT. For you especially since you weigh 20 lbs less than me.

If you're lucky, you might be able to find a deal on eBay or a local shop. I have a lot of aero wheels, many of them not easily converted to PT (TriSpoke, 20H DV46, etc), and even if they could be converted I'd be looking at $600-800 each (per eBay closed listings) so I ended up selling my PT and buying an SRM equipped bike that happened to cost about the same as an SRM. My net cost (I fire-saled a lot of stuff at way below market price and it took 2 months to get everything I sold out the door) was under $3k for a new SystemSix bike (I wanted this frameset specifically), equipped with an all-but-cranks-and-post Record (I use Campy), with the light and stiff SRM SI cranks (675 grams). If you fell into such a deal, you could also sell off the frame and kit and potentially have an SRM for $1-2k (SystemSix framesets are going for $1500 used, new Record kit probably gets you $500 without cranks). With a crank setup you can use any wheel.

You know the saying - you can have it fast, cheap or good, but you can pick only two of the three. I chose cheap and good and spent a bit of time making it so.

cdr

patentcad

I purchased a used PT SL on a Zipp 404 clincher. That way I can train on it without worry. For racing I put the Zipp 404 tubular wheel on the front (flat changing isn't an issue in races) and I'm all set.





$1100 on eBay last November. Needed new batteries in the hub and head unit, and works perfectly. Also bought an extra mounting kit from Saris for $80 and it's also rigged for my TT bike. That's a PM on a Zipp on two racing bikes for $1180. As for durability it's pretty hard to destroy a Zipp clincher rim. It doesn't get ridden in the rain much (hardly at all) and very little in the winter, so it's not really going to ever wear out or break.

I had to watch eBay for a month or so to find an acceptable deal, but these Zipp 404 PTs are available on a fairly regular basis. All the used bike schwag I've purchased on eBay has been just outstanding in condition and price. All about one year old, typically 40%+ cheaper than brand new. TT bike, Zipp tubies, Zipp PT.

operator

I was replying to the previous poster about RACE wheelsets, which is ostensibly already OT.

waterrockets 

Buy a used PowerTap in the mean time, then sell it after you buy the Quarq. It won't depreciate much, if at all, in the six-month wait for the Quarq. The data and training benefits are much more valuable than having the "right" power meter right now.

merlinextraligh

+1 on Zipp 404 clincher. I'm a big guy, and have been training on that setup for 3 seasons now.

Strong enough for an everday wheel, and while it's not the lightest, its still a decent wheel for racing.

Phantoj

Six month wait? "Ship date: April 2008" is listed for the Cinqo.

Or are you meaning the Cinqo + Qranium?

krazyderek

Reynolds Solitude, 30mm alu rim, 1500g wheelset, comes in a powertap option that adds a bit of weight. I have the bontrager X-lite aero powertap and it's almost the same thing. Just different spoke pattern. I think either would be the best all round, semi aero, not to heavy, durable, and stiff power wheels you're looking for without blowing 1500$++

king-tony

I have an SL laced to an open pro. My experience has not been good. I'm having it built into a WR setup as we speak (Aerohead OC). I think during the off season I will get a Zipp 505 rim which they will drill to 32h and just run my 404's as training/race wheels. I think the DT Swiss option would be better if you are trying to decide between OP and DT.

sfcrossrider

I use Arrowheads on my spare CX race wheel set and love them. They're rather light and laugh at any abuse I throw at them.

waterrockets 

I'm just hesitant to believe the ship date. I know they're doing what they can, but it's tough to get stuff to distribution. Then, where do you get one? They have to make their way to the coaches, some to select LBSs, and I'm sure they'll be available online, but that stuff takes time too.

Some people are also talking about waiting for them to hit the streets and produce some reviews before buying.

Seems like dropping $700-$750 for a PowerTap SL to keep until August would be a safe way to go, and you could start collecting power data next week.