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Breaking an Ultegra 6700 10sp chain

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Breaking an Ultegra 6700 10sp chain

Old 07-26-11, 12:56 PM
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mortenfyhn
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Breaking an Ultegra 6700 10sp chain

Just bought a new road bike with a 6700 drivetrain (except the FSA crankset). The chain is a few links longer than what would be optimal, though. While I might take it back and have the shop look at it, I'd like to at least know how to break/reconnect the chain myself. But apparently these new chains don't work quite the same way as the old 6sp chains I'm used to.

1) As long as I reconnect with a fresh Shimano 10sp pin, is the disassembly and assembly process the same as with 'normal' chains?
2) Can I use a quick link of some sort? Preferably one that doesn't require tools.
3) If I need to replace the entire chain, will any 10sp chain do? Or do the chain and cassette need to both be of the same brand for the ramps and pins and stuff to function?
4) Is there anything else I should keep in mind while dealing with these chains?
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Old 07-26-11, 01:07 PM
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If the rear derailleur can handle the slack created in the small/small combo (i.e. the chain doesn't rub itself at the cage), then the chain isn't too long. There's an advantage to keeping it longer than necessary: more chain to spread the wear over so it will last a little longer.

1) Pretty much. Remove a pin the same way by driving it out with a chain tool. Drive it out completely. Install the special connecting pin and break off the protruding part.

2) Yes, you can use a quick-link. It replaces an outer link and its two connecting pins. I know for sure Wippermann and KMC quick links works. The Wippermann can be removed easily with no tools; the KMC requires the sideplates to be squeezed in and may need a pair of pliers.

3) You can use a different brand 10-speed chain.

4) Some newer Shimano 10-speed chains are not uni-directional (i.e. there is an inside and outside). When pushing out a pin, don't push out a special connecting pin or any pin that looks different than most.
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Old 07-26-11, 01:07 PM
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If the chain is alread installed, without taking it off, how do you know that it isn't the correct length?, for your questions

1 - Yes, you MUST use a new Shimano pin every time, and it MUST be the correct one specific to that chain

2 - Yes, SRAM or Connex will work, the Connex is re-usable

3 - As long as it's not Campagnolo or Shimano MTB any 10 speed will be fine, the latest Shimano chains have to be set up in the correct directin, they will come with instructions.

4 - As 1, if using Shimano chains, and not a quick link, you have to use a new pin every time, if you don't, expect it to fail. make sure you are using a chain tool which will work with 10 speed chains
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Old 07-26-11, 02:03 PM
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For the 6700 chain, two notes:

1. as mentioned, it's a directional chain. The non-slotted outer plates that have stamped logos should face outwards.

2. there is a preferable way to join the chain when using a Shimano break-off pin. If you're breaking the chain on the lower section (between the crank and the RD pulleys), then drive out the rear pin, not the front one, of any given pair. Reason: Shimano finds that you'll get the best strength if your replacement pin is through the rear hole.


I agree with JiveTurkey, if the RD handles the slack in small-small, you're good.
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Old 07-26-11, 03:30 PM
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Thanks, I think I'll get some Wipperman links. Chainreaction has some that are listed as '10sp Campagnolo.' Are they the same as the Shimano ones, or will they be incompatible? Some reviewers appear to use them with Shimano chains.
The chain in small-small doesn't rub, but it's not well tensioned. I'll grab a picture. I've used the 'large-large, outside the RD, plus one full link' check on several bikes before, and always found there to be a link or two more than necessary (I admit that only one of those bikes actually had a problematically long chain, though.) In any case, it feels nice to have a proper chain length, even if it's not troublesome as it is.




An unrelated question: My freewheel (Fulcrum Racing 5) is way loud. If I open up the rear hub and add a sizeable blob of grease to the ratcheting mechanism, is that likely to make a significant difference? It's currently louder than even my old Suntour freewheel, which I accidentally got 5-56 inside once.

Last edited by mortenfyhn; 07-26-11 at 04:18 PM.
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