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compact cranksets? share your wisdom.

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compact cranksets? share your wisdom.

Old 04-21-06, 09:17 AM
  #26  
WorldWind
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Originally Posted by uga8589
Help me out. What is the advantage to using a compact crank? Sorry for the stupid comment

For the longest time the smallest cog available was a 13. But now-a-days hubs and frames that will accommodate an 11 are common. So its only reasonable that the big ring be reduced accordingly and still keep a completely adequate top gear ratio.

I trust that you all realized that my above post was completely tongue in cheek.

The big advantage of smaller crank gears is of course weight and or strength. The secondary advantage is potentially better shifting and a smaller Q.

The disadvantage is that there is a higher load on the chain and a potential for accelerated wearing of teeth. The better alloys and finishing processes that are making their way into cycling have for the most part offset this.

I predict that very soon we will see Maraging steel used in small cogs, chains and composite rings with steel teeth.
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Old 04-21-06, 10:10 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by uga8589
Help me out. What is the advantage to using a compact crank? Sorry for the stupid comment
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=123238
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Old 04-21-06, 10:38 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by tinybiker
the love of my life is my 48cm Bridgestone XO-1, which i'm currently in the process of giving a major overhaul. i'm interested in riding a compact crankset, but am having trouble deciding which one i should buy. obviously, the new Shimano R700 is a work of beauty, but it costs near $300. and with everything else i'll be upgrading on my bike, that's just outside my price range.

so: are there any thoughts out there for compact cranksets that are mid-level quality and are under $200? i'm not racing, but i do ride every day, with longer (maybe 50-80 mi) rides on weekends. the other caveat is that i'm a mere 5' tall and am hoping to find something with 165 crank arms. this is not the dealbreaker for me, though, since it seems to majorly limit my options.

any advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks!
You can get the R700 on eBay for $190.

If you already have a Shimano BB (105/Ultegra/Dura-Ace) you may not need to purchase a new BB.

The R700 does come in 165mm for crank arm length.

Shimano Compact cranks get inner chainrings with tooth profiles that specifically address the greater shifting demands imposed by Compact's 16 tooth difference in chainring size. This special profile is designed to prevent the chain from falling off when shifting down to the inner ring. Combined with other Shimano advances in shifting technology, these rings enable the use of a standard front derailleur with compact cranks.

Compact specific chainrings mean that you don't need to worry about compact specific front derailleurs!

----
Features

- Hollowtech 2
- 50-34T Rings
- 110mm Bolt Pattern
- No Special Front Derailleur Needed

----
Specifications

Rear Speeds - 10

Chainring Combination - 50-34T

PCD - 110mm

Splined Crank - Yes

Crank Arm Length - 165/170/172.5/175mm

Chain - Supper Narrow HG for 10-speed

Bottom Bracket
--------------
Model No. - Included*
Chain Line - 43.5mm

Hollowteck Crank Arm - HOLLOWTECHII

Crank Arm Material/Finish - Aluminum/Anodized

Top Gear Material/Finish - Aluminum/Anodized

Low Gear Material/Finish - Aluminum/Anodized


Note : *Individual package (SM-FC6600) is available for after market.

Last edited by NoRacer; 04-21-06 at 10:50 AM.
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Old 04-21-06, 02:12 PM
  #29  
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Before you pull out your credit card for FSA, check out Ritchey WCS compact cranks. Uses the Shimano octalink spline so you may not have to change bb. On net between 152 -159 plus shipping. Not carbon but look nice. Good luck.
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Old 04-21-06, 03:56 PM
  #30  
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Old 05-04-06, 08:57 PM
  #31  
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I am looking at putting on a compact crankset as well. What is involved in the change over. Any special tools. Where can I find a "how to".
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Old 05-04-06, 09:04 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by coachmrpaul
I am looking at putting on a compact crankset as well. What is involved in the change over. Any special tools. Where can I find a "how to".

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=123238

what is your bike set up with now?
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Old 05-04-06, 11:18 PM
  #33  
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The FSA energy is the best bang-for-buck in a compact. With the right choice of BB it will come in lighter than cranks costing twice as much. Significanlty lighter than the gossamer but not available in a 165 to my knowledge.
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Old 05-05-06, 12:31 AM
  #34  
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On my road bike I run a 39-53 crankset and a 11-20 straight-block in the back. Even so comming down Highway 9 from Skyline I find my self compleetly spun out some of the time. Their is no way I would ever loose that big ring. (LOL, for thoes of you that know that decent.)
Geez, how fast are you going? I was not spun out on my 50/34 12/28 coming down Hwy 9. I guess I tend toward the cowardly. To me, it is about 100 times more important to have gears that can get me up to Skyline without mashing, than it is to not have tall gears that are needed for a few seconds of 45 mph instead of 35 mph.
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Old 05-05-06, 12:41 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ravenmore
I've actually been thinking of ditching my compact that came with the bike - too limited on the high end.
This new 10s 11-26 will change the way people look at compacts. I used to have one and I can't imagine needing more tham a 34-26 for most purposes. Essentially that is equal to like a 39-30.
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Old 05-05-06, 02:21 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Ritterview
Originally Posted by WorldWind
On my road bike I run a 39-53 crankset and a 11-20 straight-block in the back. Even so comming down Highway 9 from Skyline I find my self compleetly spun out some of the time. Their is no way I would ever loose that big ring. (LOL, for thoes of you that know that decent.)
Geez, how fast are you going? I was not spun out on my 50/34 12/28 coming down Hwy 9. I guess I tend toward the cowardly. To me, it is about 100 times more important to have gears that can get me up to Skyline without mashing, than it is to not have tall gears that are needed for a few seconds of 45 mph instead of 35 mph.
Yeah, I'm not sure if a taller gear than 50x13 or 50x12t really gives you much more speed. The extra drag you get from sitting up and pedaling isn't offset by the puny amount of power you add above 45mph and I can spin up to that with a 50x13t just fine. Moving up to a 12t or 11t doesn't give me any more speed, just slows down the cadence and I end up with less power and no more speed. Above 45mph, it's better to refine your tuck to be more streamlined.

I break up Big Basin (Hwy9) into three sections. There's the top 1/3rd which is the steepest, but also has the tightest curves. There is a fast 1/2-mile straightaway at the bottom of this section between the big left-hand sweeper and the tight right-hander 270-degree turn. If you crank as fast and as hard as you can around the left-hand sweeper (lean body into corner to keep bike upright so you don't clip a pedal), you can exit at 42-45mph and use the whole straightaway to get up to about 52-53mph... even faster if you find a car to draft off, but most of them are Sunday drivers crawling along at 35mph.

The middle-1/3rd after the 270-degree right-hander is the straightest, but not as steep. You can pretty much ride the entire middle section in a tuck, 40-45mph, maybe 50mph if you sit on the top-tube and get low. The bottom 1/3rd is pretty much a warm-down ride.

Personally I think the best part of a compact-crank really is the smaller gears you can use. I've got a 38x24t low gear that's great up to a 7-8% grade. I'll put on a 13-26t cluster for a monster mountain ride around here that's got some 10-12% sections. Even with a 38x26t gear, in some sections, I'm still struggling at 40-rpms or so... getting off and carrying the bike might be more efficient...
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Old 05-07-06, 01:30 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by bbattle
+1 FSA Gossamer

50-34 with 12-25 gives me more high gears than I can use and almost as much as a triple. Big ring for the flats; small ring for the climbs. No complaints. Actually little difference between 53-12 and 50-12(34.5mph vs. 32.6mph or 1.9mph); if you can spin either at 100 rpm, hats off to you.

On the low end, 39-25 vs. 34-25 is 1.6mph at 100rpm for 700 x 23 tires. [12.2 mph vs. 10.6mph]

It's about 1.5gears lower on the low end and a gear lower on the high end. Since I can't spin out the top gear except maybe on some descents where I'm just trying to stay alive, I don't miss anything. And since I'm an old newbie, the extra 1.5 gears on the low end is greatly appreciated.

The Shimano compact is a narrower 50-36; you can also get compact gearing in a 48-34 or 48-36. A straight block with these would give you very fine gearing changes.

Or if you spend your time always on the flats, get a 53-43 double with an 11-23 cassette.





I had no need for a 53T ring, and went to the compact 50/34 double. After riding for a bit I noticed that I wanted to tweak things a bit to make my ride perfect for me. Swapped out to a 48/36. Went for the first ride today and absolutely love it. The 48T is perfect for flats and rolling hills, and the 36T is great for climbs or lazy rides. Even though it doesnt seem like a lot switching from a 50 to a 48, I def. noticed a difference. Makes things much more comfortable and riding more enjoyable.
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Old 05-07-06, 01:33 PM
  #38  
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double post...edit.

Last edited by ac29593; 05-07-06 at 01:42 PM.
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Old 05-07-06, 01:46 PM
  #39  
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My bike came with a 53-39 with a 12-25 on the rear. I do not push big gears to well so I switched to a 50 on the front. a very easy swap on my FSA crankset. I also changed the rear to 12-27. Gives me more usable gears on the high end on the big ring. Not a full compact but much better for my riding style.
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Old 05-07-06, 05:00 PM
  #40  
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compact

I switched from a 54 42 30 12-25 cassete to a 50 34 12 27. I enjoy my fsa compact crank.
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Old 05-07-06, 08:34 PM
  #41  
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