Immersing a 63 cm frame in 1 1/2 gallons of Evaporust
08-21-16, 07:43 PM
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Immersing a 63 cm frame in 1 1/2 gallons of Evaporust
I just finished a highly successful derusting of an old Gitane TdF frame. I should have taken photos, but didn't. Here's what I did:
1. I made a simple 3' x 4' pool by nailing together four pieces of 2x4 lumber, lying the resulting frame flat on my porch, and then lining it with a sheet of 6-mil plastic. Then I filled it with water from the garden hose to a depth of 3" or so. A plastic wading pool would have worked just as well, but I don't have one.
2. I then took a sheet of 3-mil plastic and laid it over the top of the resulting pool of water, with about a foot of overhang all around. I took some bricks and weighted down the excess plastic. The result was something like a waterbed--a sheet of plastic with a dry outer surface floating on a pool of water beneath.
3. I placed the frame (which I had previously cleaned and degreased with mineral spirits) on top of the floating sheet of plastic (lying on its side, obviously). I pressed it down so that it sank into the floating plastic to about the mid-line of the head tube, seat tube, down tube, and head tube. The downward-facing dropout and chainstay sank until the dropout touched bottom, so that half of the bottom bracket shell was "underwater." I experimented with various weights and found that a two-foot stick of firewood--resting between the seat and down tubes--held it pressed down to about the right level.
4. Next, I poured Evaporust into the depression surrounding the frame. It took one and one-half gallons to bring the level halfway up the tubes. I put a blue tarp over it to keep everything clean and let it soak overnight.
5. In the morning, I took the frame out and rinsed it. All the rust on the immersed side was gone. I turned it over and did the other side, then rinsed and dried it the following morning. Finally, I did the fork in the same solution.
6. To reclaim the Evaporust, I gathered the edges of the upper sheet of plastic so the ER formed a blob in the middle. Then I picked the whole thing up and put in into a milk crate, after which I could bail out the ER with a coffee can and pour it back into the jug for re-use later. I rinsed the plastic and put it away for re-use later, drained the water, and folded up the lower sheet as well. Done!
Result: A perfectly clean frame (since the solution flooded the insides of the tubes, I imagine that any rust inside the tubes is also gone, although I have never been one to worry about that). Cheaper than oxalic acid, and no toxic waste to dispose of. No neutralizing with baking soda--just a plain water rinse and dry. Seriously, oxalic acid is obsolete.
Patent pending! Okay, not really. I hope it works for others as well as it worked for me.
1. I made a simple 3' x 4' pool by nailing together four pieces of 2x4 lumber, lying the resulting frame flat on my porch, and then lining it with a sheet of 6-mil plastic. Then I filled it with water from the garden hose to a depth of 3" or so. A plastic wading pool would have worked just as well, but I don't have one.
2. I then took a sheet of 3-mil plastic and laid it over the top of the resulting pool of water, with about a foot of overhang all around. I took some bricks and weighted down the excess plastic. The result was something like a waterbed--a sheet of plastic with a dry outer surface floating on a pool of water beneath.
3. I placed the frame (which I had previously cleaned and degreased with mineral spirits) on top of the floating sheet of plastic (lying on its side, obviously). I pressed it down so that it sank into the floating plastic to about the mid-line of the head tube, seat tube, down tube, and head tube. The downward-facing dropout and chainstay sank until the dropout touched bottom, so that half of the bottom bracket shell was "underwater." I experimented with various weights and found that a two-foot stick of firewood--resting between the seat and down tubes--held it pressed down to about the right level.
4. Next, I poured Evaporust into the depression surrounding the frame. It took one and one-half gallons to bring the level halfway up the tubes. I put a blue tarp over it to keep everything clean and let it soak overnight.
5. In the morning, I took the frame out and rinsed it. All the rust on the immersed side was gone. I turned it over and did the other side, then rinsed and dried it the following morning. Finally, I did the fork in the same solution.
6. To reclaim the Evaporust, I gathered the edges of the upper sheet of plastic so the ER formed a blob in the middle. Then I picked the whole thing up and put in into a milk crate, after which I could bail out the ER with a coffee can and pour it back into the jug for re-use later. I rinsed the plastic and put it away for re-use later, drained the water, and folded up the lower sheet as well. Done!
Result: A perfectly clean frame (since the solution flooded the insides of the tubes, I imagine that any rust inside the tubes is also gone, although I have never been one to worry about that). Cheaper than oxalic acid, and no toxic waste to dispose of. No neutralizing with baking soda--just a plain water rinse and dry. Seriously, oxalic acid is obsolete.
Patent pending! Okay, not really. I hope it works for others as well as it worked for me.
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08-21-16, 07:53 PM
#2
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I just finished a highly successful derusting of an old Gitane TdF frame. I should have taken photos, but didn't. Here's what I did:
1. I made a simple 3' x 4' pool by nailing together four pieces of 2x4 lumber, lying the resulting frame flat on my porch, and then lining it with a sheet of 6-mil plastic. Then I filled it with water from the garden hose to a depth of 3" or so. A plastic wading pool would have worked just as well, but I don't have one.
2. I then took a sheet of 3-mil plastic and laid it over the top of the resulting pool of water, with about a foot of overhang all around. I took some bricks and weighted down the excess plastic. The result was something like a waterbed--a sheet of plastic with a dry outer surface floating on a pool of water beneath.
3. I placed the frame (which I had previously cleaned and degreased with mineral spirits) on top of the floating sheet of plastic (lying on its side, obviously). I pressed it down so that it sank into the floating plastic to about the mid-line of the head tube, seat tube, down tube, and head tube. The downward-facing dropout and chainstay sank until the dropout touched bottom, so that half of the bottom bracket shell was "underwater." I experimented with various weights and found that a two-foot stick of firewood--resting between the seat and down tubes--held it pressed down to about the right level.
4. Next, I poured Evaporust into the depression surrounding the frame. It took one and one-half gallons to bring the level halfway up the tubes. I put a blue tarp over it to keep everything clean and let it soak overnight.
5. In the morning, I took the frame out and rinsed it. All the rust on the immersed side was gone. I turned it over and did the other side, then rinsed and dried it the following morning. Finally, I did the fork in the same solution.
6. To reclaim the Evaporust, I gathered the edges of the upper sheet of plastic so the ER formed a blob in the middle. Then I picked the whole thing up and put in into a milk crate, after which I could bail out the ER with a coffee can and pour it back into the jug for re-use later. I rinsed the plastic and put it away for re-use later, drained the water, and folded up the lower sheet as well. Done!
Result: A perfectly clean frame (since the solution flooded the insides of the tubes, I imagine that any rust inside the tubes is also gone, although I have never been one to worry about that). Cheaper than oxalic acid, and no toxic waste to dispose of. No neutralizing with baking soda--just a plain water rinse and dry. Seriously, oxalic acid is obsolete.
Patent pending! Okay, not really. I hope it works for others as well as it worked for me.
1. I made a simple 3' x 4' pool by nailing together four pieces of 2x4 lumber, lying the resulting frame flat on my porch, and then lining it with a sheet of 6-mil plastic. Then I filled it with water from the garden hose to a depth of 3" or so. A plastic wading pool would have worked just as well, but I don't have one.
2. I then took a sheet of 3-mil plastic and laid it over the top of the resulting pool of water, with about a foot of overhang all around. I took some bricks and weighted down the excess plastic. The result was something like a waterbed--a sheet of plastic with a dry outer surface floating on a pool of water beneath.
3. I placed the frame (which I had previously cleaned and degreased with mineral spirits) on top of the floating sheet of plastic (lying on its side, obviously). I pressed it down so that it sank into the floating plastic to about the mid-line of the head tube, seat tube, down tube, and head tube. The downward-facing dropout and chainstay sank until the dropout touched bottom, so that half of the bottom bracket shell was "underwater." I experimented with various weights and found that a two-foot stick of firewood--resting between the seat and down tubes--held it pressed down to about the right level.
4. Next, I poured Evaporust into the depression surrounding the frame. It took one and one-half gallons to bring the level halfway up the tubes. I put a blue tarp over it to keep everything clean and let it soak overnight.
5. In the morning, I took the frame out and rinsed it. All the rust on the immersed side was gone. I turned it over and did the other side, then rinsed and dried it the following morning. Finally, I did the fork in the same solution.
6. To reclaim the Evaporust, I gathered the edges of the upper sheet of plastic so the ER formed a blob in the middle. Then I picked the whole thing up and put in into a milk crate, after which I could bail out the ER with a coffee can and pour it back into the jug for re-use later. I rinsed the plastic and put it away for re-use later, drained the water, and folded up the lower sheet as well. Done!
Result: A perfectly clean frame (since the solution flooded the insides of the tubes, I imagine that any rust inside the tubes is also gone, although I have never been one to worry about that). Cheaper than oxalic acid, and no toxic waste to dispose of. No neutralizing with baking soda--just a plain water rinse and dry. Seriously, oxalic acid is obsolete.
Patent pending! Okay, not really. I hope it works for others as well as it worked for me.
How do you figure it is cheaper? Here in Canada I paid ~20 CAD for tall can size of oxalic acid couple of years ago and it will last me for quite some time. ~1 quart of Evaporust was about 15 CAD or so
08-21-16, 07:59 PM
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Wow. Does Evaporust really cost $15 a quart in Canada? On this side of the border it's $20 a gallon.
My observation is that most people seem to pour OA out onto the ground after using it once. The Evaporust can be reused indefinitely. I guess if you have space for a semi-permanent vat of OA and aren't concerned about toxicity, OA probably is cheaper. Assuming that cheapness is your main concern.
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Last edited by jonwvara; 08-21-16 at 08:04 PM.
08-21-16, 08:04 PM
#4
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Most people seem to pour OA out onto the ground after using it once. The Evaporust can be reused indefinitely. I guess if you have space for a semi-permanent vat of OA and aren't concerned about toxicity, OA probably is cheaper. Assuming that cheapness is your main concern.
Cheapness is not main concern. I used evaporust a lot in the past but switched to oxalic acid - was not a big fan of collecting it after and did not like finish it left on some bits and parts.
If oxalic acid is properly disposed of (diluted and neutralized) it is not toxic and biodegradable. Powder does not take special space to store, ready when I need it and I can adjust concentration and amount.
Not bashing your solution - was just curious how did you figure it was cheaper.
08-21-16, 08:12 PM
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Does either oxalic acid or evaporust leave paint alone?
Last edited by artclone; 08-22-16 at 11:27 AM. Reason: grammar
08-21-16, 08:21 PM
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Cheapness is not main concern. I used evaporust a lot in the past but switched to oxalic acid - was not a big fan of collecting it after and did not like finish it left on some bits and parts.
If oxalic acid is properly disposed of (diluted and neutralized) it is not toxic and biodegradable. Powder does not take special space to store, ready when I need it and I can adjust concentration and amount.
Not bashing your solution - was just curious how did you figure it was cheaper.
If oxalic acid is properly disposed of (diluted and neutralized) it is not toxic and biodegradable. Powder does not take special space to store, ready when I need it and I can adjust concentration and amount.
Not bashing your solution - was just curious how did you figure it was cheaper.
Fair enough. Oxalic acid obviously has its champions. I've heard a range of opinions about its toxicity, and I prefer to err on the side of caution on that score.
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08-21-16, 08:24 PM
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Evaporust has no effect on paint. Unlike OA, it is also harmless to aluminum, which makes it a good choice for soaking things--like derailleurs--that combine steel and aluminum parts.
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08-21-16, 08:25 PM
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Smart idea! 
08-21-16, 09:11 PM
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08-21-16, 09:26 PM
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I saw the title of this thread and thought My Gosh that has to be one frame worth $$$ for that much Evaporust to be used. A few ago I found this product at AutoZone and I thought it was ridiculously expensive for a quart container! Multiplied x6 and the OP used over 150.00 of this product. So where do you guys get this in bigger cans at economical pricing???
Max Bryant
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Last edited by mightymax; 08-21-16 at 09:28 PM. Reason: spelling
08-22-16, 05:27 AM
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I saw the title of this thread and thought My Gosh that has to be one frame worth $$$ for that much Evaporust to be used. A few ago I found this product at AutoZone and I thought it was ridiculously expensive for a quart container! Multiplied x6 and the OP used over 150.00 of this product. So where do you guys get this in bigger cans at economical pricing???
Max Bryant
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I bought it at a local place called Tractor Supply for $20 per gallon. I had to buy two gallons, of which I used 1 1/2. But as noted, almost all of it gets collected and poured back into the jug for re-use. It lasts a long time. Considering the cost of bike parts, tools, tires, etc., I don't consider a couple of gallons of ER every few years to be a major expense.
I think ER is even cheaper in 5-gallon pails, but I've never needed that much of it.
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08-22-16, 10:14 AM
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I'd love to see pics of the final product if you're inclined to post... Thanks...
08-22-16, 10:28 AM
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08-22-16, 02:43 PM
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08-22-16, 02:57 PM
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[QUOTE=Moe Zhoost;19002462]OXA1
+1 Increase the quantity and it gets less expensive. Mixed properly it won't hurt the paint or decals.
I've found Evaporust looses it potency rather quickly.
+1 Increase the quantity and it gets less expensive. Mixed properly it won't hurt the paint or decals.
I've found Evaporust looses it potency rather quickly.
Last edited by Velognome; 08-22-16 at 03:00 PM.
08-22-16, 05:53 PM
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Does that figure in the cost of the neutralizing solution and disposal?
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08-22-16, 06:16 PM
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Brilliant! Much better than my 'sandbox' technique!
08-22-16, 06:24 PM
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I mix it in a proportion of 1 tablespoon per gallon. This makes about a 2.5% solution. Not much (cheap) bicarb is necessary to neutralize this amount and it may not be necessary at all if spent.
Glad you had good results with ER.
08-22-16, 06:34 PM
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I think I mixed OA way too strong back in the days when I used it--that's why I'm probably so concerned (quite possibly too concerned) about toxicity.
I apologize if my previous post seemed wiseassed/sarcastic. That wasn't my intent.
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11-10-17, 01:08 PM
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From the grave:
@jonwvara I’m planning on doing this as you’ve done it this weekend. Evaporust is still ~$20/gallon at TS. When I place the frame down into the plastic, will a good amount of water flow out from underneath? Trying to figure out how much of a mess I’m going to be making
. In my head 2x4’s don’t seem high sided enough to make an adequate soaking space without displacing all the water?
I’m going to take pictures of the process for reference, before and after a of the frame as well.
@jonwvara I’m planning on doing this as you’ve done it this weekend. Evaporust is still ~$20/gallon at TS. When I place the frame down into the plastic, will a good amount of water flow out from underneath? Trying to figure out how much of a mess I’m going to be making
. In my head 2x4’s don’t seem high sided enough to make an adequate soaking space without displacing all the water?I’m going to take pictures of the process for reference, before and after a of the frame as well.
11-10-17, 01:43 PM
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Sometimes I mix it a bit too strong and get a yellow residue that has to be scrubbed off with a brush; in the summer my OA tank (a wallpaper soaking tray) has water evaporation problems, so the concentration of OA increases along with the yellow residue.
Evaporust power does weaken with time, but additional time in the bath seems to work.
11-10-17, 02:22 PM
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Good thread; I have a frame that needs soaking (rust is on the inside) and I've been trying to decide between evaporust and OA. I figure this is a one time deal for me as I don't plan on buying another frame that needs this treatment (fingers crossed).
11-10-17, 02:39 PM
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From the grave:
@jonwvara I’m planning on doing this as you’ve done it this weekend. Evaporust is still ~$20/gallon at TS. When I place the frame down into the plastic, will a good amount of water flow out from underneath? Trying to figure out how much of a mess I’m going to be making. In my head 2x4’s don’t seem high sided enough to make an adequate soaking space without displacing all the water?
I’m going to take pictures of the process for reference, before and after a of the frame as well.
@jonwvara I’m planning on doing this as you’ve done it this weekend. Evaporust is still ~$20/gallon at TS. When I place the frame down into the plastic, will a good amount of water flow out from underneath? Trying to figure out how much of a mess I’m going to be making
. In my head 2x4’s don’t seem high sided enough to make an adequate soaking space without displacing all the water?I’m going to take pictures of the process for reference, before and after a of the frame as well.
As a footnote I will mention that I took the ER-treated Gitane TdF on a nice overnight ride with some friends last weekend, and noticed that there's again a thin layer of rust over some of the bare areas in the paint, despite my sporadic efforts to treat it with Boeshield (I ride it quite a lot but don't always look at it closely). But small amounts of cosmetic rust don't bother me much.
As long as it's my rust, I mean. It's a previous owner's rust that I can't stand.
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