Tempo too far gone?
11-10-16, 10:40 AM
#26
Keener splendor
A planter box can work, too. Rotate the frame around sequentially about every 8 hours. Something like this:
I'd start with a couple of tablespoons/gallon. You can add more if you need more.
I'd start with a couple of tablespoons/gallon. You can add more if you need more.
11-26-16, 07:40 PM
#30
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Here's and update. I soaked most of it in ER for about 48 hours. Lots of scrubbing and wd40. Unfortunately there a lot of pitting. I think I SS this and keep the "patina" I already have 2 geared road bikes.
11-26-16, 09:58 PM
#31
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I thought this frame was toast from the earlier pics. Came out pretty good. I have one of these also, same year same size. Worth saving and getting back on the road.
11-27-16, 12:31 AM
#32
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The fork is the only thing that gives me pause and is the main thing that could cause a serious crash if it failed. That said, consider this another vote for fully removing all the rust via naval jelly, evaporust and/or some vigourous wire brushing and you will be able to see what the condition is of the metal underneath. I am doing the same and then POR-15'ing and riding the heck out of an '84 Mongoose frame that looks like the BB area was submerged in the Puget Sound for a couple years.
It's rare to find a frame that's so rusted out that it couldn't be saved.
jSteel frame strength is 99.9999% in the joints - lugs, TIG weld area, fillet braze, etc. Focus on that bad rust area near the fork crown, from what I see. Remove the rust, if it's solid underneath, I'd say you have a rider.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
11-27-16, 10:24 AM
#33
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+1
It's rare to find a frame that's so rusted out that it couldn't be saved.
jSteel frame strength is 99.9999% in the joints - lugs, TIG weld area, fillet braze, etc. Focus on that bad rust area near the fork crown, from what I see. Remove the rust, if it's solid underneath, I'd say you have a rider.
It's rare to find a frame that's so rusted out that it couldn't be saved.
jSteel frame strength is 99.9999% in the joints - lugs, TIG weld area, fillet braze, etc. Focus on that bad rust area near the fork crown, from what I see. Remove the rust, if it's solid underneath, I'd say you have a rider.
Last edited by primo123; 11-27-16 at 12:20 PM.
01-10-17, 10:19 AM
#35
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Hey guys, here's an update in the rust bucket Tempo I got. I removed as much rust as I could. It looks better. I have a ton of geared bikes so I decided to try something different and went with the SS method with parts from parts bin. Really is a joy to ride. THe tempo frames are fun and light. I like not having to shift and the quitness of the ride is awesome!
01-10-17, 10:52 AM
#36
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Nice! From the early pics I -- like some others -- thought it would end worse than it did. Fork in particular. Ride that sucker! YEE HAW!
01-10-17, 12:46 PM
#37
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Glad to see the bike back on the road. You can always give it give it more attention later with a new paint spray and drivetrain parts. Looks like a great winter SS.
01-10-17, 01:01 PM
#38
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I suppose you should just make sure to use a planter box that doesn't have drain holes
01-10-17, 04:02 PM
#39
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I wondered what happened to this bike! I don't have a ss in the fleet but I like how this bike turned out. Thanks for posting all the photos,glad to see the transformation.
01-10-17, 06:01 PM
#41
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01-11-17, 08:19 AM
#42
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I used a sealed 110mm BB from a local used parts place. Spins nicely, but wanted to make sure that it isnt too close to the frame? It obviously doesnt rub, but, was just making sure. Am I Okay here?
01-11-17, 09:06 AM
#43
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It depends on how much the frame flexes when you are really hammering on the pedals. You could put a spacer between the bottom bracket fixed cup and the frame to move it out a mm, or if it doesn't mess up the chain line, you could put the chain ring on the outside of the crank arm.
01-11-17, 09:08 AM
#44
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It depends on how much the frame flexes when you are really hammering on the pedals. You could put a spacer between the bottom bracket fixed cup and the frame to move it out a mm, or if it doesn't mess up the chain line, you could put the chain ring on the outside of the crank arm.
01-11-17, 09:19 AM
#45
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It depends on how much the frame flexes when you are really hammering on the pedals. You could put a spacer between the bottom bracket fixed cup and the frame to move it out a mm, or if it doesn't mess up the chain line, you could put the chain ring on the outside of the crank arm.
10-09-17, 12:30 PM
#47
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Looks great! Have you put any mileage on it yet? Any idea on how much it weighs in SS form?
I just picked up a Tempo and I love the way those mid to late 80s Tenax Schwinns ride. Underrated for sure.
I just picked up a Tempo and I love the way those mid to late 80s Tenax Schwinns ride. Underrated for sure.
