Help me with my fit
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 6,517
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 276 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
3 Posts
Help me with my fit
Per my previous post I have been trying to dial in the fit of my new Cross Check. I had a coworker take some pictures of me on the bike (hard to get an accurate riding representation without moving)
Based on the picture I would like some opinions on the fit and how I can better dial it in. Or if I should take it back to REI where I got it and return it (and probably not be able to get a bigger size from them). I felt like the bars were too low so I got an adjustable stem which is at 15 degrees in the photo. I tried it at 25 yesterday and was not that comfortable. I have plenty of seat stem available to raise that more but at the current height I feel like my leg is almost too extended at the bottom yet it also feels a little cramped at the top of the my rotation.
Based on the picture I would like some opinions on the fit and how I can better dial it in. Or if I should take it back to REI where I got it and return it (and probably not be able to get a bigger size from them). I felt like the bars were too low so I got an adjustable stem which is at 15 degrees in the photo. I tried it at 25 yesterday and was not that comfortable. I have plenty of seat stem available to raise that more but at the current height I feel like my leg is almost too extended at the bottom yet it also feels a little cramped at the top of the my rotation.
#2
Thunder Whisperer
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NE OK
Posts: 8,847
Bikes: '06 Kona Smoke
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 275 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
2 Posts
Not even remotely qualified to even begin offering advice on how to fit a person to a bike, but I do want to ask a question for clarification. After you set that stem to 25 degrees and stated that it wasn't all that comfortable, could you elaborate a bit? Like maybe it felt a bit cramped? If so, the culprit is likely that stem- as you raise the bars with it, you are also reducing the distance (reach).
I'd say just take it to REI, put it on a set of rollers, and have them eyeball it.
I'd say just take it to REI, put it on a set of rollers, and have them eyeball it.
__________________
Community guidelines
Community guidelines
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North County San Diego
Posts: 1,664
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Out of curiosity, how tall are you and what size is the frame? In both pictures just eyeballing your posture it looks like your upper body is too far forward, but maybe it's just me. If you drew a straight line down from your nose, it looks as though you would be looking down over the front of the stem & bars.
#4
Senior Member
Don't try to get the correct fit using a couple of pictures posted to an internet forum. Take it back to the shop and have them get you close. Then carry some allen wrenches with you and tweak it until you're comfortable. I've had bikes that I made no adjustments and bikes that I've fooled with for a month.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North County San Diego
Posts: 1,664
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I agree, take it back but I just saw your other post and are you sure that's a 54? The Cross Check geometry chart says the 54 has a 56cm effective top tube, which you would think is good for somebody that's 5'10", but maybe the head tube length others were referring to is the culprit here.
#6
Keepin it Wheel
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,238
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 3,399 Times
in
2,510 Posts
Best rule of thumb for seat height; when the pedal is straight down 6:00, and your leg knee-locked straight, you want your HEEL (not toe or ball) to graze the pedal. Then when the BALL of your foot is on the pedal you should have pretty-close-to-optimal knee bend at bottom of stroke.
Your first pic shows drive side pedal at more like 4:00, so can't tell anything. Second pic shows NDS pedal at 6:00, and your heel drops significantly lower, so I'd say you need to raise your seat at least an inch, maybe more.
After you get seat height right, then there are lots of variables to play around with in the cockpit department, but I don't know if there are any rock-solid rules of thumb, as it's a matter of personal preference and riding style whether to set for more upright or more bent-over. It's good you have an adjustable stem to experiment with. You've tried different angles, but try also rotating the handlebars forward (down) and backwards (up) in the stem as well, maybe also take the stem cap off, and move the stem/spacers around to try different stem heights. That's three variables (stem height, stem angle, handlebar angle), try riding a decent-length fixed course (around a couple blocks, at least 1/2mi) between changes, only change one thing at a time, try to figure out what feels good for you.
Your first pic shows drive side pedal at more like 4:00, so can't tell anything. Second pic shows NDS pedal at 6:00, and your heel drops significantly lower, so I'd say you need to raise your seat at least an inch, maybe more.
After you get seat height right, then there are lots of variables to play around with in the cockpit department, but I don't know if there are any rock-solid rules of thumb, as it's a matter of personal preference and riding style whether to set for more upright or more bent-over. It's good you have an adjustable stem to experiment with. You've tried different angles, but try also rotating the handlebars forward (down) and backwards (up) in the stem as well, maybe also take the stem cap off, and move the stem/spacers around to try different stem heights. That's three variables (stem height, stem angle, handlebar angle), try riding a decent-length fixed course (around a couple blocks, at least 1/2mi) between changes, only change one thing at a time, try to figure out what feels good for you.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 6,517
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 276 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
3 Posts
Thanks guys. The bike is a 54 and I am about 5'10". The pictures I posted probably aren't great because I don't have a stand to keep the bike stable so I had to balance against something for the picture. I don't really trust any of the people that I have dealt with in the bike department at the REI so if I bring it back it will probably be to get my money back and go to an LBS for a different bike
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elevation 666m Edmonton Canada
Posts: 2,457
Bikes: 2013 Custom SA5w / Rohloff Tourster
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1222 Post(s)
Liked 314 Times
in
241 Posts
Look at the second pic. If you draw a line up the header then you see your entire shoulders and arms ahead of the line.
It just doesn't seem to be proper. But then I never rode drops.
It just doesn't seem to be proper. But then I never rode drops.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 7,644
Bikes: 61 Bianchi Specialissima 71 Peugeot G50 7? P'geot PX10 74 Raleigh GranSport 75 P'geot UO8 78? Raleigh Team Pro 82 P'geot PSV 86 P'geot PX 91 Bridgestone MB0 92 B'stone XO1 97 Rans VRex 92 Cannondale R1000 94 B'stone MB5 97 Vitus 997
Mentioned: 146 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 392 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 48 Times
in
30 Posts
I would raise your seatpost by an inch or so.
The frame looks like a 52 cm, anyway it seems a little small for you. Thus the handlebars are quite a bit lower than the saddle. That is an aggressive racy position, which you may not like or need.
Also you may not have quite enough room between saddle and handlebar. A rule of thumb I use is that when you look at the front axle, the tops of the handlebar (the part that is clamped in the stem) should "appear to be" in line with, or forward of, the axle.
Bottom line, if the bike is not comfortable after you raise the seatpost, go to a good bike shop and get fitted for a bike, even with the same model Surly.
The frame looks like a 52 cm, anyway it seems a little small for you. Thus the handlebars are quite a bit lower than the saddle. That is an aggressive racy position, which you may not like or need.
Also you may not have quite enough room between saddle and handlebar. A rule of thumb I use is that when you look at the front axle, the tops of the handlebar (the part that is clamped in the stem) should "appear to be" in line with, or forward of, the axle.
Bottom line, if the bike is not comfortable after you raise the seatpost, go to a good bike shop and get fitted for a bike, even with the same model Surly.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 6,517
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 276 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
3 Posts
Thanks. I raised the seat and rode home and it was definitely more comfortable but when I'm riding on the hoods I feel like I could be stretched out another inch and still be comfortable.
To make things more confusing, I just measured my other bike which is a cheap single speed with bullhorns that is sold as a 57 and frankly feels a little big for me and the effective top tube is almost exactly the same (22"). My old bike has at least 1" higher stand over and feels taller in general which I don't like. I guess it goes to show that no two bikes are the same, fit is subjective and varies from bike to bike.
To make things more confusing, I just measured my other bike which is a cheap single speed with bullhorns that is sold as a 57 and frankly feels a little big for me and the effective top tube is almost exactly the same (22"). My old bike has at least 1" higher stand over and feels taller in general which I don't like. I guess it goes to show that no two bikes are the same, fit is subjective and varies from bike to bike.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 7,644
Bikes: 61 Bianchi Specialissima 71 Peugeot G50 7? P'geot PX10 74 Raleigh GranSport 75 P'geot UO8 78? Raleigh Team Pro 82 P'geot PSV 86 P'geot PX 91 Bridgestone MB0 92 B'stone XO1 97 Rans VRex 92 Cannondale R1000 94 B'stone MB5 97 Vitus 997
Mentioned: 146 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 392 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 48 Times
in
30 Posts
Measure the touch points - saddle to pedal (pedal at farthest from saddle), saddle to bar, see what is different.
You can also push the saddle all the way rearward in the seatpost clamp.
But maybe you should test ride some Surleys in a size or two larger. REI has a good return policy, I think.
You can also push the saddle all the way rearward in the seatpost clamp.
But maybe you should test ride some Surleys in a size or two larger. REI has a good return policy, I think.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 6,517
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 276 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
3 Posts
Measure the touch points - saddle to pedal (pedal at farthest from saddle), saddle to bar, see what is different.
You can also push the saddle all the way rearward in the seatpost clamp.
But maybe you should test ride some Surleys in a size or two larger. REI has a good return policy, I think.
You can also push the saddle all the way rearward in the seatpost clamp.
But maybe you should test ride some Surleys in a size or two larger. REI has a good return policy, I think.
For what it's worth, I went to a well respected LBS to test some other bikes before I bought this and the guy said that by sizing me up (nothing scientific that he would put me on a 54 for most road bikes. Of course I test rode a Raleigh and KHS road bike in those sizes and didn't feel 100% comfortable. I think I am probably between sizes on the Cross Check and could make 54 or 56 work but I have a feeling neither would be a perfect fit so maybe this just isn't the right bike for me. REI will definitely take it back. They just changed their return policy but I still have over 11 months to ride it and get my money back ...not that I'd do that
#14
Keepin it Wheel
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,238
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 3,399 Times
in
2,510 Posts
That's interesting, never heard that fit measurement. But surely that steerer tube is pointing at the nipples, where thinking about it it should point maybe more at the face
#15
Keepin it Wheel
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,238
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 3,399 Times
in
2,510 Posts
FWIW I'm 6" and I ride a 60cm CrossCheck. But I subscribe to the "GP/Riv" school of sizing, which tends to larger frames, and "just a fistful" of seatpost.
#16
Keepin it Wheel
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,238
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 3,399 Times
in
2,510 Posts
For what it's worth, I went to a well respected LBS to test some other bikes before I bought this and the guy said that by sizing me up (nothing scientific that he would put me on a 54 for most road bikes. Of course I test rode a Raleigh and KHS road bike in those sizes and didn't feel 100% comfortable.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North County San Diego
Posts: 1,664
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Personally, that position is not even conducive to road riding/racing, as most would probably prefer to be a bit more stretched out than that.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 7,644
Bikes: 61 Bianchi Specialissima 71 Peugeot G50 7? P'geot PX10 74 Raleigh GranSport 75 P'geot UO8 78? Raleigh Team Pro 82 P'geot PSV 86 P'geot PX 91 Bridgestone MB0 92 B'stone XO1 97 Rans VRex 92 Cannondale R1000 94 B'stone MB5 97 Vitus 997
Mentioned: 146 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 392 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 48 Times
in
30 Posts
I realized your old bike has bullhorns. Possibly they place your hands further forward of the bar top, than the hoods position of your Surly's drops. I've not used bullhorns much.
How much stand over (crotch) clearance do you have on the Surly? You don't need a lot, this isn't a mountain bike.
How much stand over (crotch) clearance do you have on the Surly? You don't need a lot, this isn't a mountain bike.
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 6,517
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 276 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
3 Posts
I realized your old bike has bullhorns. Possibly they place your hands further forward of the bar top, than the hoods position of your Surly's drops. I've not used bullhorns much.
How much stand over (crotch) clearance do you have on the Surly? You don't need a lot, this isn't a mountain bike.
How much stand over (crotch) clearance do you have on the Surly? You don't need a lot, this isn't a mountain bike.
#20
working on my sandal tan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,625
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3868 Post(s)
Liked 2,560 Times
in
1,574 Posts
If you're not riding cyclocross, you won't need the extra clearance. Personally, I think the frame looks about a size too small -- I'd go a size up, maybe shorten the stem a little, and put a little bend in the elbows.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,969
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2473 Post(s)
Liked 722 Times
in
513 Posts
H
#22
Thread Killer
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 12,373
Bikes: 15 Kinesis Racelight 4S, 76 Motebecane Gran Jubilée, 17 Dedacciai Gladiatore2, 12 Breezer Venturi, 09 Dahon Mariner, 12 Mercier Nano, 95 DeKerf Team SL, 19 Tern Rally, 21 Breezer Doppler Cafe+, 19 T-Lab X3, 91 Serotta CII
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3078 Post(s)
Liked 1,631 Times
in
1,005 Posts
Man, the more I look at these pics, the more I think everything is wrong...but that's not helpful. The bike can be made comfortably rideable I'm sure, but we really need better pics. Can the OP get the bike on a stationary trainer and get some square-on shots with the right leg both at the top and bottom of the stroke while positioned most comfortably on the bike? Don't forget to put a block, book, or some kind of riser under the front wheel so the bike is level.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Moorhead, MN
Posts: 1,020
Bikes: A few ;)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
1 Post
I had a CC for a couple years and struggled with fit the entire time I owned it. I'm 5'11 with short legs/long torso and I rode a 56cm. I should have been on a 54cm. In your case, I think that 54 is too small for you, and I'd suggest riding a 56cm to see if that gets you where you want to be. FWIW, my road bikes are 57cm and my mountain bikes (both Surly) are 18". CC sizing doesn't translate to other "normal" bike sizes!
#24
Banned.
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Uncertain
Posts: 8,651
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
The bike looks too small for you. I agree with everyone who thinks it looks more like a 52cm than a 54cm. You can sort out the saddle height easily enough, but you seem to have nowhere near enough reach. If you got into anything approaching an aero position in the drops, your knees and elbows would overlap dramatically. That's how it looks from the pictures, anyway.
#25
Banned
The bike is a 54 and I am about 5'10".
I'm about that height, a level toptube 57 x 57 9cm stem is on my tourist setup cross bike.
other options if the stand over height is Right, then an un cut, replacement fork can be substituted,
for more spacers , & height, to bring the stem and bars Up.
and the bars re wrapped so as to allow moving the brakes up further,
perhaps, just rotate the bars to make the upper ramp level , not the ends of the bar at the bottom.