jsutkeepspining

i never stop watching porn, one time a teacher was like "what u watching mark", and i was all like "big booty ***** 3". hilarity ensued.

rkwaki

Figures...

jsutkeepspining

i might be smart, but i sure as hell ain't boring!

jsutkeepspining

wait **** i just read your change! DAMN U KWAKI

crapweasel

Right, as long as for a given ride it's close at the start and end, and over time it doesn't go crazy without outside influence. That part I got. But changing so much from a re-torque seems to tell me something was off before. I could be wrong. We'll see what the numbers look like after today's ride and the weekend's race.

Creatre

That's pretty normal. It'll need to settle at a new zero offset after a retorque.

AzTallRider

If it was "off" before, that didn't matter so long as you were zeroing it and it wasn't changing during a ride. Depending on how you did the re-torque, and whether it was really 'seated' previously, it may go right back to where it was. 200 isn't huge for a re-torque, from my experience. You will get to the point where you can predict the zero-offset value you are going to get, based on the ambient temperature.

jsutkeepspining

i know it will be between 350-410 (both are extremes . In the middle of winter at sub 20 degrees i see low 350's at 100+ degrees it will be low 400's. On most normal days it is between 370-390 (370 is 40 to 50 degree, 380 is high 50-75 degrees, and 390 is for like 75-100)

rbart4506

Finally got my Quarq to calibrate tonight at the end of my ride (-109)...

Tried a couple times in Georgia at the start of the ride and the Garmin would just sit there, calibrating. Seeing that the calibration takes longer if the Garmin has not finished finding an HRM or satellites, could having other power meters close by cause an issue? Tonight I finished my ride alone, while the other times my wife was there with her powertap active....

climber7

yes, but the garmin will tell you if this happens. it'll say "multiple power meters detected" or something like that.

slynkie

If you're able to activate the "calibrate" function, then you've already paired with a power meter (though, not necessarily yours!), and other power meters in the area wouldn't interfere.

btw I've never heard of it taking longer due to the garmin not yet having gotten a good GPS lock yet. In fact, I don't turn on my garmin until I go outside, so I almost never have a GPS lock yet when I zero at the start of a ride. The missing HRM definitely can delay the calibrate function, for me up to maybe 20-25 seconds - ymmv I suppose.

AzTallRider

If you also use a speed and/or cadence sensor, activating it prior to calibration also helps.

Creatre

A couple things on this:

First, I dont think it has to do with multiple power meters. It should have your ID saved after it finds it the first time, and should not be searching for the others. Second, you are correct with the HRM or satellites still searching will cause delays here. This is a big one, definitely make sure they are done with this. Third, I found if I spin it backwards a couple times, get it exactly at 6 o'clock on the drive side. Then, go down to whatever the third option is (I forgot, it's called like powermeter status or something). Once you click on this it will say connected and give you the powermeter ID. Click back, then calibrate. For some reason selecting that option and then calibrating speeds up the process dramatically. I still sometimes have trouble with it calibrating, but 95% of the time it will calibrate in 10 seconds or less.

The last thing that could cause a problem would be if your garmin is getting close to being full. For some reason this causes Garmins to start acting funny and slow (memory issue I guess?). Anyways, make sure you keep that guy under 50% full.

Hope that helps!

kleinboogie

That's what mine did and it had a stuck sensor switch. If you have an iphone with the ant+ doohicky, load up their app and run the diags. It will tell you the state of the switches. If not I'm sure quarq will take a look at it. GL

shovelhd

Very true about the Garmin getting full. It can go wonky and need a reset. Mine has been doing this lately. Time for a backup and flush.

rbart4506

Thanks guys...

I'll give those a whirl tonight, assuming it doesn't snow!

One other thing I should probably check is the Cadence\Speed sensor setting. I don't have a Garmin sensor mounted, but I did and I know I have not switched this feature off in the bike setting. That may also be slowing things down as it searches for the non-present sensor...

hammy56

picked up the power tap SL+ laced to DT Swiss rr585 for $575...mint cond, seems to work nicely.

got it paired to the garmin, calibration resulted in 0.00 torque. Is this good?

rkwaki

You found that one on Craigslist out there didn't you?

And if memory servies me right 0 is good.

hammy56

yep...so far it seems like a great deal.

rkwaki

I saw that. My SRM came from Craigslist in Denver.

climber7

yes. the calibration number should be around 510 +/- 10 or something. mine is usually about 515-520.

hammy56

how is that similar to my result?

jsutkeepspining

the number on top is what he's referring to. the 0.00 you see in the torque section means there is not force being paced on the powermeter at the moment. this is good, unless u are putting force on it....

hammy56

the other number I got (above the torque value) I believe was the powermeter ID...? Which was a 4 digit number, 5_ _ _.


*EDIT* found this information which explains why I only see the hub I.D. and 0.00 torque, which I suppose is normal with the older hub's firmware...

The torque offset should be 512 plus or minus 12 (though they may have relaxed this to 24), but your PT hub needs to be pretty new to show this on an Edge as this was only added in firmware release 6.49 by Saris. Prior to this firmware release the hub just transmitted the hub ID and not the offset so you may actually need access to a Saris/Cycleops head unit to see the offset.

Ost3oclast

So an update on my end. I redid my 20 min FTP test today on the trainer, after calibrating my meter. I did see an improvement up to 213 watts for my FTP. This seemed more accurate but still seemed low compared to what I'm producing outside. Do you guys usually do better outdoors than on the trainer? For me, it doesn't seem like I can hold the same power for as long as if I'm out on the bike. I was thinking about doing the test outside on the bike over a nice 4% climb and using the FTP I get on that ride as my base for all my outdoor riding. I guess I could use my 213 for a baseline on the trainer too. Do you guys think I should just stick to the 1 FTP value indoors or also get a value that I can use out on the bike as well?