alo

I will explain something else. In Australia, most of my bikes were rescued from the trash, and were free. Most needed some repairs. In some cases I swapped parts with others. Most were less expensive bikes when new. I normally only get mountain bikes, because of my weight.

I ride rough trails, and have broken some back wheels. But it often takes at least 2 years of rough trails before spokes begin to break.

So if you get an ideal bike, good. But if you come across something really cheap, maybe get that to begin with, and keep looking for a more ideal bike.

Some things will become clearer when you get out riding, that you may not have thought about yet.

Keep in mind the bike size, in relation to your height. I modify bikes to suit my height, but you don't want to put too much time and effort modifying a bike that is not really suitable.

PoorFatBiker

Hi guys,

What do you think about this bike ? 1990 RaleighRaleigh18 speed

Is this a good frame for me ? What should i upgrade ?

Wheels, pedals, etc and what kind of gear.

Thank you guys!


https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/858817148006389/?ref=facebook_story_share

PoorFatBiker

Hello Fat Biker crew!

What about CCM ICE is it steel ? What upgrades should I do (including cost)

Thanks everyone!

flyjimmy

Don’t do anything other then make sure the brakes work. Ride it then ride it again. Lose some weight. Eventually you
might want something else.

katsup

The Raleigh and CCM are lower end bikes. Look for models with parts that say Deore. This is Shimano's mid range group and all are good.

Deore
Deore LX
Deore DX
Deore XT
XTR <-- These will be expensive if you find a bike with this groupset.

PoorFatBiker

Ok thank you katsup I'll keep looking.

PoorFatBiker

Alright how about this...










thanks in advance guys !

CAT7RDR

Unless the forks are newish, you will need to factor in $125-$150 to replace with a rigid steel fork like a Surly. Keep looking.

PoorFatBiker

I don't mind investing. I can put 800$ or so can I do anything with that ?

PoorFatBiker

shelbyfv

https://www.bikeforums.net/general-c...sible-not.html

shelbyfv

That looks nice.

katsup

The Northrock is my favorite option, but also the most expensive. Maybe offer less and try to negotiate? Make sure it is your size!

The hardrock frame is too expensive and you don't have the missing parts or knowledge yet to do the work yourself.

The rockhopper frame is a good option, but the fork may not be good. I'd plan a rigid replacement as CAT7RDR mentioned. The price is expensive for what I am use to, but I am not in Canada or use to pre covid prices.

PoorFatBiker

amyvegan

any advice for the original poster on horizontal standover vs. a more slanted standover? just curious. thanks.

katsup

You did not list the price, but if the Trek 700 is cheap, buy and ride. The front brake may need adjustment at the very least.

If you get into the sport, you will learn what you want in a bicycle from riding the 700 and plan for bike 2. Rarely do people get the first bike right which leads to +1.

alo

I am amazed by the prices people pay in America. Most of my bikes in Australia were rescued from the trash - free.

Here are examples of bikes for sale in Australia now:

This one is AU$50



This one is AU$85



This one is AU$450.



With most bikes, you could negotiate and get a better deal.

I know you are not in Australia, but are bike really as expensive as people are saying in America? Or do you consider the bikes shown here to be not good enough?

These are just a few examples, I found in a few minutes. If you looked longer, you could find better deals.

Unless you get quite a large frame, you may need a longer seat post, and to raise the handlebars, on the bike you get.

If anyone does not believe me, see gumtree dot com dot au.

alo

I would not get any bike with thin tires, like the trek, with your weight. You will have too many pinch flats. You will also kink the rims when you hit bumps. You need mountain bike tires or wider.

Pressure is measured in pounds per square inch. The more square inches you have, the less pounds pressure you need.

sloppy12

Do not get a malus. everything on the bike is basically oddball.

so far the northrock looks like the best or complete rock hopper just plan on a new fork.

alo

To put it in perspective for you, if you had 26 x 4.0 inch fat bike, you could run 20 psi, and the tires may squash one inch when you hit a bump. These tires are 4 inches high, so they compress 25% of the way to the rim at 20 psi. If you run 1.25 inch tires at maximum pressure (let's say 80 psi, but different tires have different maximum pressures), these tires may squash all the way to the rim when you hit a bump. This may damage the edge of the rim, and pinch the tube, causing a flat tire.

A mountain bike is in the middle. You need a lot more pressure than a fat bike. Because the tires are larger than the thin tires, they are less likely to squash all the way to the rim.

Some people here are not thinking about your weight, or they're assuming you will always ride on smooth surfaces, and never hit a bump.

Of course, as soon as you start that good diet, and regular exercise, you should begin lose weight. So bikes should not break as much.

Viich

Yea, no. I'm in Ottawa, only a couple hours drive from Montreal - the used bike market is crazy for the past year. You can get some bikes in the trash, but you better be able to fix them, because they're rusted beyond belief. You'll put a lot of time and parts into getting them working reliably, usually.