3alarmer 

...you did not ask me, but for that frame, it might work out. It's relatively mild steel. And it's not like you're losing much if one of the stay braces let's go at the brazing (or were they welded ?)
But yes, that's a lot of adjustment, and the more you open up the spacing, the risk increases for damage. I wouldn't fret about it in this case. If that's the wheel that needs to fit, then fit it in there.

You might end up with the chainstays so far out that the crank arms interfere, though. And I'm not sure how much experience you have with doing this sort of thing.

BikePower

Ive been watching some youtube videos on cold setting forks. It would be great if I can make the 559 alloy wheels fit. If so I can come in under budget. So far $10 for the bike, $20 for the wheels, the tires will be about $50 with tubes. and I will need longer brakes so dont know if I can get the for $20. I might have to downgrade the tires to 16 dollars each and use the tubes I have. I think I have some cables in black that would look good. Its a heavy bike but I never understood whats the difference in a 180lb guy and a 20lb bike or a 160lb guy and a 40lb bike. The load is 200lbs either way and horsepower to propel it a given speed and distance would be the same. But I guess there is a reason for lighter bikes and all the money that is spent on them.

Gresp15C

A couple years ago I built up a bike from a 1972 Schwinn Varsity frame, which I'll bet is the same as the Collegiate. Those frames were electro-forged, a unique Schwinn process, that allowed them to produce an entire frame from sheet metal. I was able to cold-set the triangle to fit my hub, an old Sturmey-Archer.

In addition to the weight of the frame itself, you have to add the weight of the many other steel components that can't be replaced with alloy, because they're all unique sizes. I won't say non-standard, because Schwinn was the standard. Yes, lighter bikes are nicer. They're more responsive and fun to ride. Does it explain the increase in price? No, bikes above a certain basic level are also a luxury good for most people.

In addition to the weight, the Schwinn was just plain uncomfortable to ride. I finally tracked it down to a noticeable difference in frame geometry compared to other bikes in my fleet that I've tinkered with until I'm happy. I have no objection to restoring a historic bike for fun and education -- I've done it myself. But at the end of the day, the resulting bike didn't stay in my fleet for long.

Bill Kapaun

Take it a bit further with a 190 lb. bike. See the trend? On paper, the 180 lb. rider has 20 lbs. more muscle to move 20 lbs less bike. How about 160 lb. rider/20 lb. bike vs 180 lb. rider/40 lb. bike?
Even 3-4 lbs. make s bike "feel" sportier and accelerate faster/easier.

BikePower

160lb rider on 20lb bike is 180lb of mass, 180 and 40 is 220lb mass. I guess like anything else its power to weight ratio that matters and the bike generates no power so its better to have 20lbs of weight generating no power than 40lbs of weight generating no power. So that kinda makes sense now.

Bill Kapaun

A "supposition" I missed was that the rider's weight ISN'T changing when they switch between the 20 & 40.
I think bike weight as something you are carrying on your back, not pedaling.
Just saving 1/2 lb. on each tire/wheel makes a bike feel noticeably more responsive.

BikePower

160lb rider on a 23 lb bike is 14.3% dead weight. 160lb rider on a 20lb bike is only 12.5% dead weight on a 40lb schwinn 25% dead weight.

I had a 23lb Ross Paragon at one point, it was so much lighter than anything we ever rode before. It was like flying on a magic carpet.

3alarmer 

What follows is a detailed description of the Schwinn Electro Forged (E/F) frame building process.

Jeff Neese

Me too. Funny how someone comes into a forum and gets good advice from experienced bicycle mechanics, and then proceeds to ignore every bit of that advice. I'm tempted to think the OP was simply trolling us, and we fell for it.

BikePower

good and stay out. You've been nothing but a disrespectful heckler this whole thread. Everyone can read this thread from the beginning and see that. The topic is what is the correct tool to remove this freewheel? Two tools were introduced as the 'correct' tool. Experts contributed and debated. It was shown that both tools are the official 'correct' tool and that triangular and square teeth fit and grab the triangular splines equally well. Sour grapes Jeff.

Jeff Neese

You also presented yourself as a newbie (which is obvious) but that you wanted to learn. That's clearly not the case. Several pages and a lot of good advice, and you don't seem to be learning anything or taking anyone's advice.

Trakhak

In fairness, ignoring advice and blundering through can be the best way to learn. Whatever skills result will be hard-won but will stick.

BikePower

i rejected "just take it to a bike shop" and i rejected "your freewheel is toast". So yes i ignored the advice to buy new parts abd take it to a bike shop. What other advice do you claim I ignored? Surely you have examples. Oh wait, you dont because there arent any.

Jeff Neese

It's never the best way to learn. You hit the nail on the head with the word "blundering". Blundering is never best, if it can be prevented by taking the advice of those with more knowledge and experience.

I'm grateful for everyone in my life that has ever said "You know, you COULD try that, but it's a bad idea and let me tell you why."

BikePower

ive tried different seats and cant find a comfortable one. What seat do you prefer?

dedhed

Brooks B-72

Trakhak

Absolutely true. Still, blundering but persevering means that a would-be mechanic is likely to learn not only how to fix something but also why that method is best.

That said: ". . . . and let me tell you why" - I wish I'd done that more often when I was running service departments in bike stores.

BikePower

thats not the tone you took with me. You didnt tell me why anything. And im still waiting for those examples which you cant produce.

smd4

The best example is buy the correct tool. Many tools can do the job. That doesn’t make them correct.

I admit it took me a while to figure out you’re the same dude who wanted a professional truing stand for like under $10 bucks. This thread all makes sense now.

curbtender

Anyone know what threading Schwinn used with for their French freewheels?

BikePower

Im waiting for examples from Jeff where I ignored expert advice as he falsely claimed. Those are the examples we are talking about. Of course, he is not able to produce them because they do not exist, just as you are not able to post a quote from me saying I want a pro stand for under $10. But feel free to continue on humiliating yourself with your emotional hyperbole if it makes you feel better. Its showing the forum much more about you than me. The FR-4 tool has been shown in this thread by experts to be a authorized correct tool for this freewheel. You are in denial.

BikePower

That was my next question.

3alarmer 

...I have some personal experience with this person. I can't really give you any advice, other than long exchanges of this sort are not unusual with him. And that they will be unproductive.
Here is a recent example, from my own limited experience, which is when I finally chose to employ the ignore function. I do not know why this is the case, but this is the solution that worked for me.

Good luck with your project. I started out working in bikes of about this age and sort, back when I was commuting on them in the early 80's. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, and they will withstand a lot of abuse.

3alarmer 

...I honestly do not remember, but if you have both a standard British threaded RH adjustable BB cup, and a French threaded adjustable BB cup, it's pretty simple to use them as a go/no go tool to see which one threads easily and fully into the freewheel. I keep one of each in my bicycle toolbox, for just this purpose. Otherwise, you need a thread gauge. I have one somewhere, but usually it's in an inconvenient place when I need to check this.

They will both start out into the freewheel, but the wrong one will start to jam up about three or four turns in. Don't force it, and make sure the threads are clean and oiled when you do it. If you get a cup stuck inside the freewheel, extricate it with something like a pump plier, with the jaws wrapped in rubber or electrical tape to protect the threading of your test cup.

smd4

Quoting you has proven to be a complete exercise in futility, but thanks for the invitation.

Denial of what?