aljordan

Hello,


I am looking to upgrade the wheels on my road bike and am looking for advice. My bike is what I think is a mass produced carbon fiber frame (Masi Evoluzione) with Shimano 105 components that is about 4 years old. The wheels are Mavic CPX 22.


I've been road biking steadily in season for many years. I am in my early 50s and ride between 100 and 150 miles a week, with individual rides that average between 25 and 45 miles. I ride on quite hilly but not mountainous roads. The roads are generally surrounded by trees so I don't experience crosswinds much except occasionally when I am riding along the ocean. The roads are generally in pretty bad condition due to rough snowy winters (I am always on the lookout for pot-holes). I don't race, but for exercise I tend to ride as fast as my heart and lungs will allow. I live at the highest point of altitude in my area, so my rides will always include many ascents upon return. I usually ride by myself.


I am looking to spend between $400 and $1000 US dollars for wheels. I was initially looking at something like Shimano Ultegra WH6800 or Dura-Ace 9100 C24 CL. I am cautious about the Ultegra because of possible difficulty fixing flats while out on a ride. I am cautious about full carbon wheels because of the amount of potholes in the area. The Dura-Ace seem nice but may be more wheel than a rider like myself could appreciate, as well as a bit thinner than what's currently popular.


I am ignorant regarding better wheels because I've never owned any good ones. I am looking for something more responsive than my current wheels, that may help soak up some bumps over rough roads, and be good for climbing reasonably steady hills but not mountains - if there is such a thing. What I don't know is if a $1000 set of wheels will make a difference over a $500 set for a middle age guy who rides 150 miles a week, six months out of the year. I don't know if carbon is better than alloy for the type of riding I do, and whether rim width is important.


Any advice will be appreciated, and also tips for specific models.


Thank you,
Alan

gsindela

I don't envy you. Upgrading wheels can be extremely complex. Hopefully, I can give you some good info.

Check these out for lightweight, high value sets (It took me quite a lot of research to come up with these 3):
1. Revolution Wheel Works (Rev22 and others)
2. Psimet wheels
3. Soul 2.0 wheels

Some other good resources for wheels are:
1. prowheelbuilder.com (Great to go here and play around with the custom builder to get a good idea of rim/hub/spoke combos and their relative strength/weight/price.)
2. bikehubstore.com
3. fairwheelbikes.com

Full disclosure: I have the Ultegra 6800 wheels and like nearly all who ride them, I am quite satisfied therewith. I only wish they were lighter and had cartridge bearings, but for the price, they are stellar.

Also, check out this video. He is a bit of a nut, but makes a good point.

gsindela

Here is a sample build from prowheelbuilder.com using their full custom builder for a very lightweight, reasonably priced build:
FRONT WHEEL SUMMARY

Drillings
24
Rim
AMERICAN CLASSIC RD2218 700C BLACK MSW RIM $80.00
700c
Tubeless Tape and Valve for 1 wheel Installed + $11.00
Hub
AMERICAN CLASSIC 58 FRONT BLACK HUB $131.20
QR 100mm
*No Bearing Upgrade
*No Skewer
Spokes
SAPIM CX RAY J BEND BLACK BLADED 14 X 21 X 14G OR 2.2 X 0.9MM SPOKES $3.10
Lacing Pattern
Two Cross
Nipples
SAPIM POLYAX 14MM 14 GAUGE BLACK ALLOY NIPPLE $0.34
Weight
559.888 grams
Price
$304.76
REAR WHEEL SUMMARY

Drillings
24
Rim
AMERICAN CLASSIC RD2218 700C BLACK MSW RIM $80.00
700c
Tubeless Tape and Valve for 1 wheel Installed + $11.00
Hub
AMERICAN CLASSIC 205 REAR BLACK HUB $283.20
QR 130mm
Shimano/SRAM 8,9,10 or (ROAD 11spd)
*No Bearing Upgrade
*No Skewer
Spokes
SAPIM CX RAY J BEND BLACK BLADED 14 X 21 X 14G OR 2.2 X 0.9MM SPOKES $3.10
Lacing Pattern
Two Cross
Nipples
SAPIM POLYAX 14MM 14 GAUGE BLACK ALLOY NIPPLE $0.34
Weight
706.888 grams
Price
$456.76
Total Price: $761.52
Total Weight: 1,266.78 grams

Cyclist0108

The biggest upgrade is getting competently hand-built wheels with good rims and hubs. (These offer aluminum and carbon rims; I have only ever used aluminum.) Well-built wheels with good hubs, rims and spokes are much more robust.

Three wheel-builders I have had personally had success with:

1. Chris King: Wheels - Chris King Wheels
2. November Wheels: November Bicycles: Race smart. - Home
3. Velo Mine: Velomine.com: Worldwide Bicycle Shop

First two I got were HED Belgium Plus (disc) rims with CK and WI hubs, respectively. The third has retro-looking H+ Sons box rims and WI hubs. I like to get as many spokes as possible.

merlinextraligh

First question is what are you trying to accomplish?

Realize that there is not going to be a huge difference going to new wheels in speed, particularly within your budget. And you likely need to go to the top end of that to see significant differences in performance.

That said carbon rims are "better" They allow you to make a deep sectioned rim, that is aerodynamic and stiff, and still light. An aluminum rim with the same depth would be unduly heavt.

However, if you're not going to a deep sectioned aero rim, no need to go carbon.

As for durability of CF with potholes, I would not be overly concerned. Many people, myself included are mountain biking including jumps, and rocks and roots, with CF rims, and we're using CF rims on a tandem with a team weight of 350lbs.

If, however durability is a major consideration, in your price range I'd look at HED Belgiums

MidTNBrad

I purchased some new wheels earlier this year and looked carbon but decided that my money was better spent on some alloys instead. I went with the ROL Race SLRs. They are a little lighter, a little bit more aero, and a little bit wider than my Mavic Aksyums that came with my bike. So far I've been very happy with them and are in your budget.

gsindela

Here is another sample build with the HED rims and White Industries hubs (stellar reputation for both); heavier than the American Classic build, but more robust:
FRONT WHEEL SUMMARY

Drillings
20
Rim
HED BELGIUM PLUS 25MM CLINCHER ALLOY FRONT RIM $162.00
700c
Tubeless Tape and Valve for 1 wheel Installed + $11.00
Hub
WHITE INDUSTRIES T11 FRONT BLACK HUB $150.00
*QR 100mm
*No Bearing Upgrade
*No Skewer
Spokes
SAPIM CX RAY J BEND BLACK BLADED 14 X 21 X 14G OR 2.2 X 0.9MM SPOKES $3.10
Lacing Pattern
Two Cross
Nipples
SAPIM POLYAX 14MM 14 GAUGE BLACK ALLOY NIPPLE $0.34
Weight
665.24 grams
Price
$391.80
REAR WHEEL SUMMARY

Drillings
24
Rim
HED BELGIUM PLUS 25MM CLINCHER ALLOY REAR RIM $162.00
700c
Tubeless Tape and Valve for 1 wheel Installed + $11.00
Hub
WHITE INDUSTRIES T11 REAR BLACK HUB $333.00
*QR 130mm
*Ti Shimano/Ti SRAM 8,9,10 or (ROAD 11spd)
*No Bearing Upgrade
*No Skewer
Spokes
SAPIM CX RAY J BEND BLACK BLADED 14 X 21 X 14G OR 2.2 X 0.9MM SPOKES $3.10
Lacing Pattern
Two Cross
Nipples
SAPIM POLYAX 14MM 14 GAUGE BLACK ALLOY NIPPLE $0.34
Weight
838.888 grams
Price
$588.56
Total Price: $980.36
Total Weight: 1,504.13 grams

Dave Mayer

Wheels are the biggest upgrade bang for the buck. Light wheels are a revelation. A 1,400 gram wheelset is joy. A 1,000 gram wheelset (carbon tubulars) is a religious experience.

My riding profile seems not too different from yours. I have a garage full of wheels, so here is my advice in no particular order:

• Go light over aero. I have racks of expensive deep profile alu and carbon rims that collect cobwebs. Unless I'm riding long miles on the flats, the light wheels are preferred.
• Go alu for general riding. If you can afford another set of wheels later on, lightweight carbon would be next.
• Carbon clinchers: no.
• If you have a 10-speed drivetrain, then get a Shimano wheel with a 10-speed freehub. 11-speed wheels are inferior in terms of dish and spoke tension differentials. Plus 10-speed wheels are being blown out by vendors and ex-racers. Much cheaper and superior structural integrity.
• Ultegra 6800: like tubeless-compatible wheels in general, field repairs are impossible. Unless you carry big metal tire levers and a couple of spare tires for when you destroy the tire beads on the tires you're trying to remove.
• Shimano rear hubs are by far the best - in terms of the (loose ball) implementation, the freehub design, and the resistance to water and dirt ingress. Plus the ability to source replacement parts. Stay away from overrated and overpriced boutique hubs.
• The better Campagnolo and Fulcrum wheels are pretty good- the G3 and 2:1 rear spoke patterns on the rear wheels make a lot of sense. I am riding Eurus wheels right now - very stable, light (for clinchers), and reasonably aero.

gsindela

Great advice here!

aljordan

Wow! Thank you all for the prompt advice and places to start looking. I have a follow up question regarding Dave's post:

I do have a ten speed drive train. Do you have any recommendations on whom I might contact regarding vendors who are trying to blow them out?

Also, I forgot to mention that I am 180 pounds (81 kg) in case that matters when thinking about wheel strength or spoke count.

Thanks again.

Philly215

I might copy this exact build except I'll do 24 spokes in the front and 28 in the rear. Plus I won't go tubeless.

That's another question I have. It seems like a lot of people don't like tubeless for road wheels. Tubeless tires seem limited. What's the deal with tubeless?

gsindela

Long story. I'll be brief:
1. They are difficult to mount and can get messy if you don't know exactly what you are doing with the liquid sealant.
2. Industry as a whole has been very slow to adopt them for road, i.e. not many options out there.
3. Existing tubeless options have excellent rolling and puncture resistance profiles, but their longevity is questionable.
4. However, some say that the technology is fundamentally superior to tubes and is the way of the future.

Some long threads on this topic if you search.

cycledogg

I like your suggestions, but have two questions regarding them. 1. Why "no" to carbon clinchers. 2. Ultegra 6800, what's the problem with them? Are you saying it is hard to mount tires on them??
Cheers

Jean_TX

I recently went through the same search for a new wheelset. My original wheels was also Mavic CXP-22's. I live in the Texas hill country - lots of rolling hills and a few flat stretches with strong crosswinds. So I limited my search to light wheels with short (ie, standard 24mm) profiles. I got the usual advice to "go custom", but I don't have confidence in the local wheel builders, I wanted a warranty, and I wanted to avoid the hassle of having to pick out individual components.

So I split the difference between the Ultegra wheelset and the Dura-Ace C24's and I bought the RS81 C24's. I'm really happy with them - they are lighter than my original wheelset by at least 1 pound, they are aero, the carbon supposedly provides a smoother ride, they are much better handling (ie, stiffer laterally), and the "Shimano Digital Adjust" hub mechanism makes hub adjustment a breeze.

Dave Mayer

Ultegra 6800: these are the only wheels in 40+ years that I have not been able to remove a tire. I had to cut the wire bead off of the tires with metal clippers.

Carbon clinchers. Carbon wheels offer inferior braking, particularly in the rain, and heat dissipation problems. But at the root of it, let's give our head a shake over carbon clinchers. Going through the logic:

1. You make wheels out of carbon for weight savings - bottom line. You want light wheels because they are a big advantage in situations like crits. Nothing but decelerations and accelerations.
2. But clincher rims are so weight disadvantaged relative to tubular rims (and always will be) that if you are doing high performance riding (money at stake), there is no point in being on clinchers at all. Add to this the safety and flat-resistance advantages of tubulars.
3. So carbon clinchers are a strange anomaly, akin to putting spoilers and mag wheels on a Honda Civic.

reggieray

New wheels for the purpose of improving performance? Complete waste of time and money.

Get a power meter and/or heart rate monitor and learn how to train with them instead.

f4rrest

The dura ace c24 have been on sale, since they're introducing an updated width soon.

Got a set for $650 recently.

Philly215

That'll be awesome. Aren't the current ones like 20mm?

San Pedro

Well, I hope I don't have the same experience. I'm quite pleased with me so fast, but nothing really to compare them to. The Michelin Pro 4 Endurance tire went on quite easily, I had no trouble doing it by hand even though my right thumb is still rather ask after breaking it in November. However, if I would have known I was going to place both my wheels last month than I would have probably gotten a set of Hunt wheels or Zondas as they're both lighter and I believe wife than Ultegras.

f4rrest

Outer 21, inner 15 on the version they're clearing out.

Think mine were from nashbar.