Plain flat mount disc calipers or flat to post mount adaptors?
#1
Clark W. Griswold
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,525
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4357 Post(s)
Liked 3,995 Times
in
2,666 Posts
Plain flat mount disc calipers or flat to post mount adaptors?
What would you do? I am generally maxed out at 160 rotor anyway on the frame and fork but I am probably going to run some variant of the Magura 2 piston MT4s and just not sure if I want to go with flat mount or just get the adaptor and run post mount like three other disc brake bikes in the fleet? I guess I could also run MT5s which I am considering as I do want really good braking power. It is a Vado SL 5.0 if y'all wanted to know and aesthetics aren't really the major concern and I don't mind running flat mounts either so it is really not a I really dislike flat mounts reasoning. I would love to run 180s which would make the post mounts maybe the better route but in talking with my old Specialized technical adviser he suggested against it and I don't want to void any warranties or have any issues like that plus I want him on my side still because I might be able to get diagnostic tools and such from him even though I am no longer at a Spesh dealer but still in the industry.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,725
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5792 Post(s)
Liked 2,582 Times
in
1,432 Posts
You probably don't really need help, but FWIW, I'm a believer in KISS. So I avoid adapting or "make do" when there's a straightforward alternative.
Also, while there's an advantage to larger rotors, the potential loss of rigidity MAY degrade performance (or may not).
So. without a specific reason to adapt for a larger rotor, I'd stick with the direct mount.
Also, while there's an advantage to larger rotors, the potential loss of rigidity MAY degrade performance (or may not).
So. without a specific reason to adapt for a larger rotor, I'd stick with the direct mount.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Likes For FBinNY:
#3
Senior Member
I'd keep it all flat mount, personally. The Magura MT4 solution sounds pretty good, possibly coupled with premium pads/rotors. A higher powered option might be Hope RX4's with Shimano MTB levers.
Likes For cpach:
#4
Clark W. Griswold
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,525
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4357 Post(s)
Liked 3,995 Times
in
2,666 Posts
You probably don't really need help, but FWIW, I'm a believer in KISS. So I avoid adapting or "make do" when there's a straightforward alternative.
Also, while there's an advantage to larger rotors, the potential loss of rigidity MAY degrade performance (or may not).
So. without a specific reason to adapt for a larger rotor, I'd stick with the direct mount.
Also, while there's an advantage to larger rotors, the potential loss of rigidity MAY degrade performance (or may not).
So. without a specific reason to adapt for a larger rotor, I'd stick with the direct mount.
In the end I think I am sticking with 160s so I would have adaptors anyway (and I think flat mount is generally using adaptors even at 140 for some of it). Since the frame and fork is 140 native but I don't want to go that low. I am probably using Magura MDR-C rotors which are pretty rigid so I don't worry too much there. I wish I could do the MDR-Ps but those only go down to 180mm : (
Though KISS is always a sensible solution.
I probably should just stick with FM and stop worrying I just saw the FM to PM adaptors and said well hey that could be neat.
Thanks all for the help both of y'all : )
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,725
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5792 Post(s)
Liked 2,582 Times
in
1,432 Posts
My comment about you not needing help wasn't a challenge. It was an acknowledgement of respect based on your many posts here. I also inferred that you were simply doing reality check and replied accordingly.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Likes For FBinNY:
#6
ignominious poltroon
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 4,046
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2241 Post(s)
Liked 3,443 Times
in
1,802 Posts
I found there wasn't enough room for a flat to post adaptor plus post-mount caliper in the rear triangle of my wife's frame, so I wound up having to purchase separate calipers. It was worth it. If the adaptor had worked (as it did with the fork), it would still look terrible.
Likes For Polaris OBark:
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 4,077
Bikes: Velo Orange Piolet
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2228 Post(s)
Liked 2,011 Times
in
972 Posts
Having owned only 2 disc brake bikes I'm hardly an expert but I like exceeding the recommended max rotor size (modern steel bike, cable pull disc brakes).
If you want to stay with 160mm rotors I'd say try 4 piston disc brakes - the larger brake pads do apply more stopping energy and beefier caliper housings provide better heat dissipation. I saw a video of a Magura spokesman who said ideally you want a big rotor to dissipate the heat, but if you can't get that big pads and big caliper bodies will help manage heat.
If you want to stay with 160mm rotors I'd say try 4 piston disc brakes - the larger brake pads do apply more stopping energy and beefier caliper housings provide better heat dissipation. I saw a video of a Magura spokesman who said ideally you want a big rotor to dissipate the heat, but if you can't get that big pads and big caliper bodies will help manage heat.
#8
aged to perfection
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: PacNW
Posts: 1,817
Bikes: Dinucci Allez 2.0, Richard Sachs, Alex Singer, Serotta, Masi GC, Raleigh Pro Mk.1, Hetchins, etc
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 839 Post(s)
Liked 1,258 Times
in
663 Posts
First make sure everything is clean, calipers are aligned, pads are broken in, etc. Do the easy stuff first.
I'm in agreement with FBinNY about not using adapters if you don't have to. Adapters just add more hysteresis and flex in the brake load path which affects braking "feel" and possibly performance.
if you want more braking authority, then experiment with pads or possibly 4 piston calipers.
if you are riding mega downhills and need more heat dissipation then maybe a larger rotor, but then you get into "adapters" that will cause other problems, come loose, etc.
one other change you might consider is going to a front hub with centerlock disk attachment as opposed to ISO. I made this change on the ebike and it made a noticeable difference.
Truly it is hard for me to imagine that a properly rigged disk brake setup on a bike would not provide more than adequate braking authority for almost any type of riding. A recent braking experiment that I did with 2 bottles of wine in the panniers, 55 lb Ebike, going down the Big Hill here on the island, resulted in in braking temps in the mid 200 degrees F measured on my Fluke infrared pyrometer May not be true for all bikes and riders, but my conclusion is that, at least for the riding I do, disk brakes are more than adequate.
/markp
I'm in agreement with FBinNY about not using adapters if you don't have to. Adapters just add more hysteresis and flex in the brake load path which affects braking "feel" and possibly performance.
if you want more braking authority, then experiment with pads or possibly 4 piston calipers.
if you are riding mega downhills and need more heat dissipation then maybe a larger rotor, but then you get into "adapters" that will cause other problems, come loose, etc.
one other change you might consider is going to a front hub with centerlock disk attachment as opposed to ISO. I made this change on the ebike and it made a noticeable difference.
Truly it is hard for me to imagine that a properly rigged disk brake setup on a bike would not provide more than adequate braking authority for almost any type of riding. A recent braking experiment that I did with 2 bottles of wine in the panniers, 55 lb Ebike, going down the Big Hill here on the island, resulted in in braking temps in the mid 200 degrees F measured on my Fluke infrared pyrometer May not be true for all bikes and riders, but my conclusion is that, at least for the riding I do, disk brakes are more than adequate.
/markp
#9
Clark W. Griswold
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,525
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4357 Post(s)
Liked 3,995 Times
in
2,666 Posts
First make sure everything is clean, calipers are aligned, pads are broken in, etc. Do the easy stuff first.
I'm in agreement with FBinNY about not using adapters if you don't have to. Adapters just add more hysteresis and flex in the brake load path which affects braking "feel" and possibly performance.
if you want more braking authority, then experiment with pads or possibly 4 piston calipers.
if you are riding mega downhills and need more heat dissipation then maybe a larger rotor, but then you get into "adapters" that will cause other problems, come loose, etc.
one other change you might consider is going to a front hub with centerlock disk attachment as opposed to ISO. I made this change on the ebike and it made a noticeable difference.
Truly it is hard for me to imagine that a properly rigged disk brake setup on a bike would not provide more than adequate braking authority for almost any type of riding. A recent braking experiment that I did with 2 bottles of wine in the panniers, 55 lb Ebike, going down the Big Hill here on the island, resulted in in braking temps in the mid 200 degrees F measured on my Fluke infrared pyrometer May not be true for all bikes and riders, but my conclusion is that, at least for the riding I do, disk brakes are more than adequate.
/markp
I'm in agreement with FBinNY about not using adapters if you don't have to. Adapters just add more hysteresis and flex in the brake load path which affects braking "feel" and possibly performance.
if you want more braking authority, then experiment with pads or possibly 4 piston calipers.
if you are riding mega downhills and need more heat dissipation then maybe a larger rotor, but then you get into "adapters" that will cause other problems, come loose, etc.
one other change you might consider is going to a front hub with centerlock disk attachment as opposed to ISO. I made this change on the ebike and it made a noticeable difference.
Truly it is hard for me to imagine that a properly rigged disk brake setup on a bike would not provide more than adequate braking authority for almost any type of riding. A recent braking experiment that I did with 2 bottles of wine in the panniers, 55 lb Ebike, going down the Big Hill here on the island, resulted in in braking temps in the mid 200 degrees F measured on my Fluke infrared pyrometer May not be true for all bikes and riders, but my conclusion is that, at least for the riding I do, disk brakes are more than adequate.
/markp
I think I am sticking with flat mount and thanks again to all for your help : )