Chain question...
#1
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Chain question...
My Shogun 500 has a chain with links labeled; VIA UG 5E
After pushing the pin most of the way out, and then pushing it back in after a bottom bracket service, that link now does not flex freely.
So...what kind of chain is this, and what master link would work for it? If it is a KMC, they list two pin lengths for their connectors, 7.1 and 7.3.
Thanks in advance for any help offered!
After pushing the pin most of the way out, and then pushing it back in after a bottom bracket service, that link now does not flex freely.
So...what kind of chain is this, and what master link would work for it? If it is a KMC, they list two pin lengths for their connectors, 7.1 and 7.3.
Thanks in advance for any help offered!
#2
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Put the chain tool on the opposite side of the chain and push the pin a little bit, just a touch to loosen it up.
You don't need to take the chain off for BB service.
Or buy a new chain, speed appropriate.
You don't need to take the chain off for BB service.
Or buy a new chain, speed appropriate.
#3
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Sounds like a Shimano Uniglide chain. You can loosen up the tight link this way: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/deraile...html#stifflink
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I like to remove the chain, periodically, for a good cleaning...not only the chain but the RD, FD, and the jockey wheels. Servicing the BB gave me a good opportunity to do that, also.
#5
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Sounds like a Shimano Uniglide chain. You can loosen up the tight link this way: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/deraile...html#stifflink
I should have figured the amazing Sheldon Brown had this topic covered.
So, with a stiff link, you can work it back and forth (in the normal direction) as much as you want, it does not free up. But, just a modest sideways torque, back and forth, and voila...the bad link is a free as all the others.
Thanks again for the help!
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#7
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Bear in mind, to get that pin out, it forced the hole in the link plate to stretch,
So there is your weakest link to potentially fail at some point..
A quick link (and associated pliers, made for the purpose) will facilitate removal, and, re installation
...
So there is your weakest link to potentially fail at some point..
A quick link (and associated pliers, made for the purpose) will facilitate removal, and, re installation
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-05-18 at 05:35 PM.
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As fietsbob recommended, a quicklink will make things much easier and taking your riveted links apart will always weaken them slightly. Assuming you take apart a different link each time you'll have multiple weak spots.
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Interesting information about weakening the link. Although it has not stretched, according to my tool, it might be either the original chain or close to it (1985 Shogun 500), and therefore due for a replacement. I try to support the LBS, but at $30 for a new chain I balked, and will search for one at a more reasonable price. Thanks again for the responses!
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But, if you've gotten a couple of decades out of the last chain, I suppose it doesn't matter that much.
Be careful with cassette and chainring wear.
#12
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Chain 'speeds' is width so any 9 speed chain will do,, bring extra quick links..
9 speed on those too
they join 2 inner links, replacing an outer link
each half, has a pin and a keyhole for the pin on the other side.
Chain opening on the top, you use the pedal power to lock the QL pins in its opposing keyholes..
...
9 speed on those too
they join 2 inner links, replacing an outer link
each half, has a pin and a keyhole for the pin on the other side.
Chain opening on the top, you use the pedal power to lock the QL pins in its opposing keyholes..
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-05-18 at 05:34 PM.
#13
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My local, down the street stocks KMC they do the job..
On my IGH chain I use a half link, looks different, , that pin is what I open..
wider chains don't have to have the chain pins flush .
when there were just 5 or 6 speeds the chain could have the chain pins proud (sticking up higher)
so less chance the side plates come off the pins..
//
On my IGH chain I use a half link, looks different, , that pin is what I open..
wider chains don't have to have the chain pins flush .
when there were just 5 or 6 speeds the chain could have the chain pins proud (sticking up higher)
so less chance the side plates come off the pins..
//
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more chain questions as the season has finally opened enough for the old duffer to actually ride a bit.
Q: for a field removal of a quick-link, what the preferred method? I have those snappy Parks pliers in the shop, but don't think I've ever seen a "what to carry" list with them. I also have one of the lethermen p2 multi-tools, but the jaws don't open wide enough to squeeze the link.
thanks
Q: for a field removal of a quick-link, what the preferred method? I have those snappy Parks pliers in the shop, but don't think I've ever seen a "what to carry" list with them. I also have one of the lethermen p2 multi-tools, but the jaws don't open wide enough to squeeze the link.
thanks