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Good price for new cable/housing job

Old 03-27-14, 03:19 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Little Darwin
... over 9 years since the last post. Nice resurrection, I hadn't seen a post from Sidney in a long time...
Dang, LD - I really feel like I've been baited, and to it hook, line, and sinker.
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Old 03-27-14, 03:35 PM
  #52  
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liv_rong has it right

except for seventy five dollars being a rip off

he uses as an example of reasonable cost fifteen dollars to set up both brakes
lets round that up for twenty
then another twenty dollars for the derailleurs
and four dollars for each inner cable is sixteen
and two fifty per foot for housing could be ten bucks
and ten cents per ferrule is another buck or two

and suddenly the cost is sixty eight dollars

prices are set by what the market will bear
if the shop is staying open and not constantly fighting lawsuits and bbb complaints
and the op is willing to pay it due to perceived value of saved time hassle and peace of mind
then seventy five bucks for a perfectly functioning bike is not unreasonable at all
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Old 03-27-14, 03:50 PM
  #53  
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Your local bike shop is a business. Rent, insurance, inventory, supplies, employees, taxes and fees of all kinds, website, utilities all cost real money. They have to charge real money to stay in business.

If you have the inclination to do it yourself, go ahead. Your shop will be glad to sell you the tools, parts and supplies to do it. Some shops even hold classes to teach customers how to do this stuff. Working on your own bike is fun and/or a financial necessity for many of us. Some people have no interest, no time or don't mind the expense, so they have a shop do everything. It's all good.
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Old 03-27-14, 03:50 PM
  #54  
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At todays pricing I'll spend at least $80 for parts doing this job on my own bike, cable and housing kit, black cork tape kit.
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Old 03-27-14, 07:11 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by RoadTire
Dang, LD - I really feel like I've been baited, and to it hook, line, and sinker.
I like seeing old threads pop up occasionally, especially seeing posts from people that are no longer with us, like Sidney along with others who have just faded away over the years.
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Old 03-27-14, 07:26 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by sydney
You gotta be kidding!
Around here retail space rents for $90/square foot per year triple net with the tenant paying for real estate taxes, insurance, and maintenance.

A small 1500 square foot LBS is looking at $150,000 a year before they hire any employees or cover other business expenses like utilities and liability insurance.

One somewhat larger LBS charges $80 to replace cables to cover that, materials and tax not included.

I don't think that includes housings since they're specifically mentioned as part of the $275 full tuneup.

Personally I find it less effort to do work like that myself than driving to the LBS, finding parking, dropping off the bike, driving home, driving to the LBS, finding parking, picking up the bike, and driving home which probably totals 1.5 hours.

Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 03-27-14 at 07:45 PM.
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Old 03-27-14, 07:30 PM
  #57  
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The oil change chains are actually less expensive than DIY. The oil change is generally a loss leader so they can upsell with unnecessary air filter replacement or a transmission flush (which can do more harm than good). I just say no to the ancillaries and save myself time and money.

I spent $20 bucks to get a brake cable changed out a few years back. Didn't seem like a bad deal at the time. It was basically a demo to see how good of a shop it was. Turns out, I've not had any issues at all with my bike since then, so no need to use them.

I really would prefer to DIY just about everything on a bike these days. Will likely invest in a stand and tool kit over the summer.

Originally Posted by nolageek
True. But, they are all valid reasons for some people. To some people, it's just worth it to pay someone else to do it. That's the reason there are 15 minute oil change places.

I paid someone to do oil changes in my car, but I do most of my own bike repairs. I'm more comfortable with some things.. somethings I'd rather a professional do.

I guess if I had enough money I'd rather bring it to a bike shop, get it done right in 15 minutes and go riding, rather than spend 3 hours fiddling with it myself and have it start raining. For my current financial situation, this isn't an option.

Hell, I brought my bike in to get a flat fixed once because I had just walked 3 miles in 100 heat and I was just OVER IT. It was worth the $15 just so I could sit in the A/Ced shop, chit chat, cool my temper (and body) and dry off. I walked in and they were like "wow, you look like crap" I was all "Fix my flat. I dont want to even look at my bike right now" and we all laughed.
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Old 03-27-14, 07:40 PM
  #58  
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for me i will re-use my inner rear rd and rear brake exchange to front fd and front brake so it will only need new rear rd and rear brake. for housing is depend of condition, now im using teflon inner wire and silk oil housing from jagwire i know is exp $$$ but i satisfied. also there is opt for non teflon and non oil housing which come in cheaper price. changing cable is prety simple there is a lot tutorial on you tube and for i know you just need proper cuting wire prefer GOOD quality cutter and set screw driver. PS: sorry for my poor english grammar
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Old 03-27-14, 07:48 PM
  #59  
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hell my campy ultra shift whatever cables kit alone cost like 65-70 bucks from the LBS...
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Old 03-28-14, 07:57 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Al1943
At todays pricing I'll spend at least $80 for parts doing this job on my own bike, cable and housing kit, black cork tape kit.
That seems awfully high unless you use really boutique parts. I buy Jagwire brake and shift housing in 25' rolls for about $20/roll and Jagwire or Shimano shift and brake cables for about $6 each. Assuming I need 6' of each housing and 4 cables that's about $10 worth of housing and $24 worth of cables plus say $10 for bar tape or $44 for the entire job.
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Old 03-28-14, 08:14 AM
  #61  
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I just had it done as part of a tune up. The parts cost me $48 and labor was included in tune up price.
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Old 03-28-14, 10:11 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by midgie
It should've cost you $4.00 for labor.
Spoken like someone with no clue about what it costs to run a business. As if the entire interaction was 4 minutes long. Every single thing we do in the shop has a cost associated with it, and if the money coming in doesn't cover those costs, no more bike shop.

My shop charges a slightly higher than average rate. But the work is better than average, and we experience very few come-backs. Our customers tend to be people who put a premium value on their time and are willing to pay a little more for less time wasted. For bikes not bought from my shop, we have a $10 shop minimum. Bought your bike from us? No charge for minor adjustments and/or repairs ever.

As to the original question, for 99% of repairs we use nice, die-extruded stainless cables, and prelubed housing. A full re-cable using those parts runs just under $80, (a fully-internal carbon/tri bike is more, for obvious reasons) and all adjustments are included. Results are often shocking with people saying "I can't believe this bike works so nice now". We flat-grind the ends of the housings and use metal ferrules where appropriate. This allows us to send the bike out confident it won't need to come back for tweaks afterward.

Is it worth it? My absolutely crammed full repair board would seem to suggest my customers think so.

As to guys on here that seem to think everything at a shop should just cost essentially nothing, I invite them to open their own business, buy all the tools they need to work on the vast variety of bikes from $79 WallyWorld specials to $10,000+ tribikes, not to mention cultivate the expertise and charge virtually nothing and see how long they last.

Don't want to pay a good shop for good work? Then DIY. I DIY all my own car stuff except tire mounting, but I don't begrudge the car places for charging what they charge. I personally find cars easier to work on than bikes. Nothing to adjust, simply bolt on the new part and off you go....
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Old 03-28-14, 10:45 AM
  #63  
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^^^^^^Good post and sensible too.
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Old 03-28-14, 11:33 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by 'nother
Thanks, all. So somewhere in the $75 range would be about right? Maybe a little more for my area?



Well, I am no expert, but he did demonstrate some of the symptoms to me, particularly on the rear brake cable, it's like it's gunked up inside the housing as it doesn't glide through as it should. I doubt they're all like that but who knows if the others are on their way. My naive view is to look at them like guitar strings, change 'em all but maybe that's overkill.

I'm probably not gonna DIY this one; derailers I could see doing but the brakes are an important safety device on there and I don't wanna screw that up. Maybe after a little more time with the wrench on other repairs.
Brake should be easier to adjust. Derailers, otoh, is more tedious.
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Old 03-28-14, 12:25 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by HillRider
That seems awfully high unless you use really boutique parts. I buy Jagwire brake and shift housing in 25' rolls for about $20/roll and Jagwire or Shimano shift and brake cables for about $6 each. Assuming I need 6' of each housing and 4 cables that's about $10 worth of housing and $24 worth of cables plus say $10 for bar tape or $44 for the entire job.
A basic jag wire pro cable kit runs $30-40 and bar tape is $15-30. So $45-70 minimum unless you buy enough for lots of bikes. Once you factor in a tool or two you could easily hit $80.
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Old 03-28-14, 01:47 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by spdntrxi
hell my campy ultra shift whatever cables kit alone cost like 65-70 bucks from the LBS...
They're not much cheaper online either. Cables are a major expense. Especially if you have the LBS do it.
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Old 03-28-14, 01:55 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by HillRider
That seems awfully high unless you use really boutique parts. I buy Jagwire brake and shift housing in 25' rolls for about $20/roll and Jagwire or Shimano shift and brake cables for about $6 each. Assuming I need 6' of each housing and 4 cables that's about $10 worth of housing and $24 worth of cables plus say $10 for bar tape or $44 for the entire job.
Not "boutique", I buy Campy cable kits for my Campy components and Shimano kits for my Shimano components. I get these from the LBS that I've used for 20+ years. I know there are ways I could reduce those costs but this LBS and others have done a great job of supporting the cycling community here. And they give club members a 10% discount.
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Old 03-28-14, 03:17 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by BikeWise1
As to the original question, for 99% of repairs we use nice, die-extruded stainless cables, and prelubed housing. A full re-cable using those parts runs just under $80, (a fully-internal carbon/tri bike is more, for obvious reasons) and all adjustments are included.
+1. My calculation of about $44 above is for parts only and based on doing the labor myself at zero extra charge. Of course shops get the components for less than I pay but the difference isn't that striking and it is a time consuming job, particularly if done properly. Your charge is reasonable.
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Old 06-10-14, 06:39 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by BikeWise1
Spoken like someone with no clue about what it costs to run a business.
Cherry pick that ****ing conversation much? Hope you also use the quote I posted regarding a full cable run
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Old 10-22-17, 10:06 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by capwater
I like to support my LBS with stuff like that, plus they have two cool dogs to play with while I'm waiting. Took a bike in last month; new brake and derailler cables plus new bar tape and complete adjustment ... $40.
Lake Mary? Florida?
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Old 10-22-17, 10:17 AM
  #71  
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housing buck fiddy a foot, cables five bucks each what do you get paid by the hour after taxes?
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Old 10-22-17, 01:13 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Esoteric
Lake Mary? Florida?




TWELVE year old post. And he's in Rhode Island.
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Old 09-02-18, 10:53 PM
  #73  
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My rear derailleur cable is frayed and I can't fix it because I had already fixed it once and it's too short (almost all that is left is frayed). I'm curious how much a LBS would charge to fix or replace it for me. (it's a question )
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