Show us your Peugeot PX10 !
#501
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So what are the reasons this bike is so sought out after? Is it THAT well riding of a bike? Or is it because it was a grail bike in its time?
#502
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^^^^
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#503
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#504
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In short, they offered an exceptional overall package and weight for the money, so good that some pros would race them as delivered factory stock -same as the consumers market.
#505
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It was also an interesting model that Peugeot did their best to keep all of the componentry French whereas other French-made bikes had at least some components made in Italy and other countries.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#506
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I think my PXN 10 is the twin--color and lettering--of your PSV 10.
#507
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Pretty close and in the Peugeot centennial year 1982 / 83??
I realize they made another model to celebrate the 100 year (PH something, aero sans lugs) and wouldn't mind having a variant of the special headbadge decal custom made. Something subtle, thoughts?
Other: You mentioned gearing ~ I swapped out the 6 speed to 5 cluster Maillard Pro with a bit of drillium and gear inch range 39 to 97.
Something different to try and so far I like it.
Though I do have to heed caution and not tangle the Jubilee standard cage by going big to big. I really don't miss losing the extra cog and the setup still looks racey and not old man... Lol.
I don't want to mess any further as everything is working flawless with perfectly dialed in friction shifting, and thankfully no ghost shifting. That was the gripe often mentioned about the Vitus 980 framed. It required quite a bit of road trial vs work stand to get it just right. Derailleur positioning, cable sheath to rear and other finicky stuff.
As for its curb appeal, kind of funny as I've been shouted at by a passing car "nice bike" and compliments from others at my few stops, store / post office. The narrow tubed in pearly white has mojo. Cheers~
I realize they made another model to celebrate the 100 year (PH something, aero sans lugs) and wouldn't mind having a variant of the special headbadge decal custom made. Something subtle, thoughts?
Other: You mentioned gearing ~ I swapped out the 6 speed to 5 cluster Maillard Pro with a bit of drillium and gear inch range 39 to 97.
Something different to try and so far I like it.
Though I do have to heed caution and not tangle the Jubilee standard cage by going big to big. I really don't miss losing the extra cog and the setup still looks racey and not old man... Lol.
I don't want to mess any further as everything is working flawless with perfectly dialed in friction shifting, and thankfully no ghost shifting. That was the gripe often mentioned about the Vitus 980 framed. It required quite a bit of road trial vs work stand to get it just right. Derailleur positioning, cable sheath to rear and other finicky stuff.
As for its curb appeal, kind of funny as I've been shouted at by a passing car "nice bike" and compliments from others at my few stops, store / post office. The narrow tubed in pearly white has mojo. Cheers~
#508
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Pretty close and in the Peugeot centennial year 1982 / 83??
I realize they made another model to celebrate the 100 year (PH something, aero sans lugs) and wouldn't mind having a variant of the special headbadge decal custom made. Something subtle, thoughts?
Other: You mentioned gearing ~ I swapped out the 6 speed to 5 cluster Maillard Pro with a bit of drillium and gear inch range 39 to 97.
Something different to try and so far I like it.
Though I do have to heed caution and not tangle the Jubilee standard cage by going big to big. I really don't miss losing the extra cog and the setup still looks racey and not old man... Lol.
I don't want to mess any further as everything is working flawless with perfectly dialed in friction shifting, and thankfully no ghost shifting. That was the gripe often mentioned about the Vitus 980 framed. It required quite a bit of road trial vs work stand to get it just right. Derailleur positioning, cable sheath to rear and other finicky stuff.
As for its curb appeal, kind of funny as I've been shouted at by a passing car "nice bike" and compliments from others at my few stops, store / post office. The narrow tubed in pearly white has mojo. Cheers~
I realize they made another model to celebrate the 100 year (PH something, aero sans lugs) and wouldn't mind having a variant of the special headbadge decal custom made. Something subtle, thoughts?
Other: You mentioned gearing ~ I swapped out the 6 speed to 5 cluster Maillard Pro with a bit of drillium and gear inch range 39 to 97.
Something different to try and so far I like it.
Though I do have to heed caution and not tangle the Jubilee standard cage by going big to big. I really don't miss losing the extra cog and the setup still looks racey and not old man... Lol.
I don't want to mess any further as everything is working flawless with perfectly dialed in friction shifting, and thankfully no ghost shifting. That was the gripe often mentioned about the Vitus 980 framed. It required quite a bit of road trial vs work stand to get it just right. Derailleur positioning, cable sheath to rear and other finicky stuff.
As for its curb appeal, kind of funny as I've been shouted at by a passing car "nice bike" and compliments from others at my few stops, store / post office. The narrow tubed in pearly white has mojo. Cheers~
#509
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84 px10
got another build happening :-)
#510
Full Member
I have owned three px10s. The first (too big) was a 1965 that I rebuilt from a frame and rode in Eroica. The second was a 73/74 (too small) I restored and ultimately sold. The current is a 1978 that is just right!
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#511
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Very cool. Was this repainted? It's look great. What is the gearing? I'd love to run a stronglight 93 crank but yeah I'll want to run a long cage RD if I do.
#512
Full Member
It has a relatively modern early 2000s mid cage index derailleur along with a 8 speed hub. I repainted it myself using a product called Spraybike.
#513
rmfrance
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I recently picked up a late-60s PX10 frame with Nervex Pro lugs and the thrumb rest on the LH rear drop-out - perhaps from around 1968, but I'm not 100% sure.
To help me pin it down, does anyone know what time frame the head badge was still being riveted in place? Here's a pic to show what I mean:
You can see the two rivet marks, plus a slightly cryptic 'RE' - but no other marks.
Here's the complete frame after stripping the refinish (sprayed over the chrome..) and cleaning things up ready for a more period-correct paint job - once I know the period!
Any suggestions very gratefully received - I can supply more pics if that helps things along.
To help me pin it down, does anyone know what time frame the head badge was still being riveted in place? Here's a pic to show what I mean:
You can see the two rivet marks, plus a slightly cryptic 'RE' - but no other marks.
Here's the complete frame after stripping the refinish (sprayed over the chrome..) and cleaning things up ready for a more period-correct paint job - once I know the period!
Any suggestions very gratefully received - I can supply more pics if that helps things along.
#514
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I always thought the riveted headbadge on PX-10s went away c.1970, when they went to the '70-74 graphic scheme. I had a similar Peugeot PX-10 frameset that had the decal headbadge - but with rivets in it! - and the extended tang seen on the left rear dropout above. I always thought it was a c.1970 transitional bike. This is what it looked like -
#515
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This little beauty just arrived from hazetguy.
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#516
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I recently picked up a late-60s PX10 frame with Nervex Pro lugs and the thrumb rest on the LH rear drop-out - perhaps from around 1968, but I'm not 100% sure.
To help me pin it down, does anyone know what time frame the head badge was still being riveted in place? Here's a pic to show what I mean:
You can see the two rivet marks, plus a slightly cryptic 'RE' - but no other marks.
Here's the complete frame after stripping the refinish (sprayed over the chrome..) and cleaning things up ready for a more period-correct paint job - once I know the period!
Any suggestions very gratefully received - I can supply more pics if that helps things along.
To help me pin it down, does anyone know what time frame the head badge was still being riveted in place? Here's a pic to show what I mean:
You can see the two rivet marks, plus a slightly cryptic 'RE' - but no other marks.
Here's the complete frame after stripping the refinish (sprayed over the chrome..) and cleaning things up ready for a more period-correct paint job - once I know the period!
Any suggestions very gratefully received - I can supply more pics if that helps things along.
More mystery stampings... 59/60 PX10.
What is the serial number on your BB? ..and do you have any other stampings on top of your bottom bracket shell - like RGF. ? I have a '59/'60 model with similar lug work, and that came with a riveted on head badge as above, and has similar cryptic letters. Yours has different front forks though, but they may have been switched. Hmmm, there may be something slightly different about the dropouts as well... I would have to look closer at mine.
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#517
rmfrance
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PX10 dating, mstyery stampings, etc.
[QUOTE=mrcurly;21134110]
Thanks for the comment. I'm pretty sure that the forks are original, as they're very similar to a '74 PX10 I also have (too small, sadly..).
I see that you also have the mystery RE stampings!
Here's the BB underside, showing the stampings (nothing is visible on the upper side):
As clear as I can get, but not bad, given the age of the frame.
More mystery stampings... 59/60 PX10.
What is the serial number on your BB? ..and do you have any other stampings on top of your bottom bracket shell - like RGF. ? I have a '59/'60 model with similar lug work, and that came with a riveted on head badge as above, and has similar cryptic letters. Yours has different front forks though, but they may have been switched. Hmmm, there may be something slightly different about the dropouts as well... I would have to look closer at mine.
What is the serial number on your BB? ..and do you have any other stampings on top of your bottom bracket shell - like RGF. ? I have a '59/'60 model with similar lug work, and that came with a riveted on head badge as above, and has similar cryptic letters. Yours has different front forks though, but they may have been switched. Hmmm, there may be something slightly different about the dropouts as well... I would have to look closer at mine.
I see that you also have the mystery RE stampings!
Here's the BB underside, showing the stampings (nothing is visible on the upper side):
As clear as I can get, but not bad, given the age of the frame.
#518
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[QUOTE=rmfrance;21134200]
Thanks for the comment. I'm pretty sure that the forks are original, as they're very similar to a '74 PX10 I also have (too small, sadly..).
I see that you also have the mystery RE stampings!
Here's the BB underside, showing the stampings (nothing is visible on the upper side):
As clear as I can get, but not bad, given the age of the frame.
OK, the rear dropouts on the older model have stylized Simplex stamped into them:
..while the serial number is a bit of a joke, since they were all over the place. FWIW my 59'(ish) PX is SN 711430, while another one of similar age (a little newer..) for sale here was 936759... so you would think your SN slots nicely between those two, however they started to recycle the numbers in the late 60s, so its anybodies guess. My BB is also an RGF, not made by Nervex like your one. I guess there would be a few on this forum that can give you a better idea on your PX10s vintage, all I can offer is in AU they released Pugs between 73 - 76 with riveted plastic head badges, my 76-77 had the standard transfer label, while the previous year had the riveted plastic emblem. The later PX10/PY10s I have seen have the plain lugs, so I guess yours fits in to late 60's early 70's.. with a riveted badge. Whatever year it is - it will be a pretty bike when you finish it, that type of lugwork is IMO their best combination.
Thanks for the comment. I'm pretty sure that the forks are original, as they're very similar to a '74 PX10 I also have (too small, sadly..).
I see that you also have the mystery RE stampings!
Here's the BB underside, showing the stampings (nothing is visible on the upper side):
As clear as I can get, but not bad, given the age of the frame.
OK, the rear dropouts on the older model have stylized Simplex stamped into them:
..while the serial number is a bit of a joke, since they were all over the place. FWIW my 59'(ish) PX is SN 711430, while another one of similar age (a little newer..) for sale here was 936759... so you would think your SN slots nicely between those two, however they started to recycle the numbers in the late 60s, so its anybodies guess. My BB is also an RGF, not made by Nervex like your one. I guess there would be a few on this forum that can give you a better idea on your PX10s vintage, all I can offer is in AU they released Pugs between 73 - 76 with riveted plastic head badges, my 76-77 had the standard transfer label, while the previous year had the riveted plastic emblem. The later PX10/PY10s I have seen have the plain lugs, so I guess yours fits in to late 60's early 70's.. with a riveted badge. Whatever year it is - it will be a pretty bike when you finish it, that type of lugwork is IMO their best combination.
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#520
rmfrance
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[QUOTE=mrcurly;21135809]
OK, the rear dropouts on the older model have stylized Simplex stamped into them:
..while the serial number is a bit of a joke, since they were all over the place. FWIW my 59'(ish) PX is SN 711430, while another one of similar age (a little newer..) for sale here was 936759... so you would think your SN slots nicely between those two, however they started to recycle the numbers in the late 60s, so its anybodies guess. My BB is also an RGF, not made by Nervex like your one. I guess there would be a few on this forum that can give you a better idea on your PX10s vintage, all I can offer is in AU they released Pugs between 73 - 76 with riveted plastic head badges, my 76-77 had the standard transfer label, while the previous year had the riveted plastic emblem. The later PX10/PY10s I have seen have the plain lugs, so I guess yours fits in to late 60's early 70's.. with a riveted badge. Whatever year it is - it will be a pretty bike when you finish it, that type of lugwork is IMO their best combination.
Thanks for the extra insight. I've never seen dropouts like that.
The interesting thing for me about the rivet holes being filled like ours is that they were obviously never pop-riveted, which makes me wonder how they secured them inside a tube...
A detail I note on mine is that what looks like the original BB spindle doesn't have the usual Stronglight stamping, despite the bearing cups looking like typical Competition style parts.
I'll be doing the primer and paint next, which will be progress...
OK, the rear dropouts on the older model have stylized Simplex stamped into them:
..while the serial number is a bit of a joke, since they were all over the place. FWIW my 59'(ish) PX is SN 711430, while another one of similar age (a little newer..) for sale here was 936759... so you would think your SN slots nicely between those two, however they started to recycle the numbers in the late 60s, so its anybodies guess. My BB is also an RGF, not made by Nervex like your one. I guess there would be a few on this forum that can give you a better idea on your PX10s vintage, all I can offer is in AU they released Pugs between 73 - 76 with riveted plastic head badges, my 76-77 had the standard transfer label, while the previous year had the riveted plastic emblem. The later PX10/PY10s I have seen have the plain lugs, so I guess yours fits in to late 60's early 70's.. with a riveted badge. Whatever year it is - it will be a pretty bike when you finish it, that type of lugwork is IMO their best combination.
The interesting thing for me about the rivet holes being filled like ours is that they were obviously never pop-riveted, which makes me wonder how they secured them inside a tube...
A detail I note on mine is that what looks like the original BB spindle doesn't have the usual Stronglight stamping, despite the bearing cups looking like typical Competition style parts.
I'll be doing the primer and paint next, which will be progress...
#521
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[QUOTE=rmfrance;21138294]
Thanks for the extra insight. I've never seen dropouts like that.
The interesting thing for me about the rivet holes being filled like ours is that they were obviously never pop-riveted, which makes me wonder how they secured them inside a tube...
A detail I note on mine is that what looks like the original BB spindle doesn't have the usual Stronglight stamping, despite the bearing cups looking like typical Competition style parts.
I'll be doing the primer and paint next, which will be progress...
My frame is a little misleading, it was in full 1980s silver disguise with the late model transfers applied when I bought it, the lower rivet is just filled with base coat from that respray - it was easy enough to pop that out.
It has gone from that, to completely stripped:
...to an equivalent of the original Peugeot Blue:
I picked up a hard to find perfect early model alloy headbadge, that was the original badge and will be attached when I am comfortable finishing off my blue paint job. That stalled after the 4th topcoat, due to tropical weather... and work.
Hard to find - undamaged head badge circa 1959/60
There is a thread somewhere about attaching the headbadges, some people use rivet tops combined with silastic. I chose to go with these tap in rivets, and a very small blob of silicone as a backstop.. can be removed if required, carefully:
Smallest are the way to go - may require the ends to be filed down a little.
Thanks for the extra insight. I've never seen dropouts like that.
The interesting thing for me about the rivet holes being filled like ours is that they were obviously never pop-riveted, which makes me wonder how they secured them inside a tube...
A detail I note on mine is that what looks like the original BB spindle doesn't have the usual Stronglight stamping, despite the bearing cups looking like typical Competition style parts.
I'll be doing the primer and paint next, which will be progress...
My frame is a little misleading, it was in full 1980s silver disguise with the late model transfers applied when I bought it, the lower rivet is just filled with base coat from that respray - it was easy enough to pop that out.
It has gone from that, to completely stripped:
...to an equivalent of the original Peugeot Blue:
I picked up a hard to find perfect early model alloy headbadge, that was the original badge and will be attached when I am comfortable finishing off my blue paint job. That stalled after the 4th topcoat, due to tropical weather... and work.
Hard to find - undamaged head badge circa 1959/60
There is a thread somewhere about attaching the headbadges, some people use rivet tops combined with silastic. I chose to go with these tap in rivets, and a very small blob of silicone as a backstop.. can be removed if required, carefully:
Smallest are the way to go - may require the ends to be filed down a little.
#522
rmfrance
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The Nervex Pro lugs you have there lasted until early '72.
#523
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@mrcurly, the respray looks nice. What color blue is that (standard off-the-shelf color or custom mixed)?
#524
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@mrcurly, the respray looks nice. What color blue is that (standard off-the-shelf color or custom mixed)?
Thanks, if you roll back to post 20025395 there is some more info. That shade of Blue looks lighter in full sunlight, its Hammerite Smooth Blue, available off the shelf in a pressure pack, though a bit hard finding AU stockists. It was recommended somewhere as an identical match for the factory paint, and for pressure packs its a decent quality paint.
I'm not entirely sure the shade is correct, though the factory paint is not necessarily what these bikes are wearing 60 years later.. so a bit hard to compare. The brochures look different to most of the ancient blue bikes I have seen online. My main aim was to strip the frame to check for any 'hidden' issues, fortunately none were found, ..then give it an etch prime and 5 or 6 top coats of something. Initially I was going to go with the pearly white, instead I gave this colour a try - it does grow on you, but then so do BCC's..
This project has been sitting for almost 18 months now waiting for the next phase. I have acquired all the parts it needs (maybe ) just have to polish it, clean it, add transfers and a clear coat. I don't currently have the time or space to work on it!
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Thanks, if you roll back to post 20025395 there is some more info. That shade of Blue looks lighter in full sunlight, its Hammerite Smooth Blue, available off the shelf in a pressure pack, though a bit hard finding AU stockists. It was recommended somewhere as an identical match for the factory paint, and for pressure packs its a decent quality paint.
I'm not entirely sure the shade is correct, though the factory paint is not necessarily what these bikes are wearing 60 years later.. so a bit hard to compare. The brochures look different to most of the ancient blue bikes I have seen online. My main aim was to strip the frame to check for any 'hidden' issues, fortunately none were found, ..then give it an etch prime and 5 or 6 top coats of something. Initially I was going to go with the pearly white, instead I gave this colour a try - it does grow on you, but then so do BCC's..
This project has been sitting for almost 18 months now waiting for the next phase. I have acquired all the parts it needs (maybe ) just have to polish it, clean it, add transfers and a clear coat. I don't currently have the time or space to work on it!
I'm not entirely sure the shade is correct, though the factory paint is not necessarily what these bikes are wearing 60 years later.. so a bit hard to compare. The brochures look different to most of the ancient blue bikes I have seen online. My main aim was to strip the frame to check for any 'hidden' issues, fortunately none were found, ..then give it an etch prime and 5 or 6 top coats of something. Initially I was going to go with the pearly white, instead I gave this colour a try - it does grow on you, but then so do BCC's..
This project has been sitting for almost 18 months now waiting for the next phase. I have acquired all the parts it needs (maybe ) just have to polish it, clean it, add transfers and a clear coat. I don't currently have the time or space to work on it!