vintagerando

I originally bought this for the Suntour Superbe groupset on it. Initially, I thought the frame was too far gone. I am no expert, but the workmanship is very nice on this frame. The rusted areas are "solid" for the most part; tap on these areas with a screw driver and they still seems solid. Well, I am re-thinking this frame. I know an auto body guy that may be able to paint the effected areas. But will paint hold? Does anyone have experience trying to spruce up rusted areas like this? Or am I headed down an expensive road with a bike that is not fixable. Any opinions or experiences out there to share?

artclone

Hard to say. Pic 6 looks the worst. Looks like the lug point is almost gone? Might be an illusion.

I would guess that if you drill w/wire brushed these areas you'd find the damage minimal, but sometimes it is worse than it looks. A bit of rust can bubble up paint a lot, though, without eating very much steel away.

You should remove the paint down to bare metal in those spots and look very carefully. And then have a neutral party do the same. Then rust treat and prime while you decide the next step.

If there aren't deep pits or holes, the frame might be fine.

willie52

Agree. You'll need to clean all the rust off to properly check the frame. Go slowly, don't grind, or aggressively sand good metal away. Those tubes are very thin, so be careful. That's a shame, that was a sweet frame.

vintagerando

yeah, it is a shame. When I bought it, I got the sense from the former owner that to him, bikes are disposable toys.
Should I use a steel wire brush or brass?

artclone

Brass if you got it. But a steel brush is fine as long as you stop when you hit metal. If you brush through the steel then it was rusted through anyway.

Show us pics when done!

ironwood

Probably okay. Some people soak a rusted frame in a weak solution of oxalic acid to remoe the paint. Somone will probaly explain it in detail in a few more posts.

eschlwc

remove the rust in any number of ways, touch up the paint (or not), rebuild, and ride.

3speedslow

As others have said, clean all those rust area down to clean metal. Check them for weak spots. If it seems solid you must treat and prime. Then decide what level of paint finish you want, perfect being a full repaint to beater/rider for a spot paint blended in.

Good luck, those Univegas are nice frames.

Salamandrine 

That ain't just any Univega!

It looks like you can still save it at this point, but it should be obvious once you hit the rust with a wire brush. The worst seems to be the bottom point of the upper head tube lug. You may have to build that up with bondo or putty and sand to get the shape back.

Also check inside the tubes.

As nice as it would be to save the original tomato soup red paint job, it would probably be easier at this point just to strip the whole thing with chemical stripper, do the wirebrushing, prepping and priming yourself, and then take it to your friend to spray.

Cougrrcj

You need to send that frame/fork to me. Problem solved.

Too nice quality frame to throw away.

Seriously though, soda blasting (not sandblasting!) the rusty spots, touch-up or overall repaint, and 'frame-saver' treatment of the inside of the tubes.

BTW, what year is that frame? Serial number??? Many Univega frames of the 80s were built used by Miyata and used the Miyata serial numbering system.

vintagerando

I dont have the serial number in front of me, but....I remember it starts with "M", which likely means its a Miyata, right?

Cougrrcj

M is the year of manufacture, which is 1984 according to the Miyata serial numbering system. BUT, looking at the 1984 Univega catalog, the Superstrada came in gunmetal gray only that model year. HOWEVER, bikes manufactured September through December would be 1985 models, and still have the 1984 serial number. The '85 Superstrada came in tomato red.

Salamandrine 

It was built in the Miyata factory for sure, but technically it's a Univega, not a Miyata...

It's been a long time, but IIRC Univega was just starting to farm out their cheaper models to cheaper subcontractors at this time. The mid to high range was still Miyata made. I remember putting a couple of these tomato bikes together BITD. They were a great bike, especially for the price, but they didn't sell that well, at least at my LBS.

Cougrrcj

I just was doing some more research, and found the OP's post from January here on BF.net with the serial number -- T-Mar gave you the year --
So there we have it. 1985 model Superstrada - which was Univega's second-from-the-top racing model. Triple-butted frame tubes, Cr-mo stays, and fork. Very similar to the '85 Miyata 'Pro Miyata' in specs, which was also equipped with SunTour Superbe Pro components.

Definitely worth trying to save that frame. That one looks to be a 54cm frame.

T-Mar

Several possible approaches:

1. strip and repaint.
2 remove the visible rust, neutralize and touch-up the affected areas.
3. remove the visible rust, neutralize and clear coat the affected areas
4. use as is
5. sell the frame

Ultimately, the choice will come to the OP's relative weighting of aesthetic versus financial considerations.

vintagerando

I forgot I had posted on this bike before. The first letter of the serial could be and N or M. I believe meausured it awhile ago, 56cm. Some people may not agree with this, but I think this frame is a good candidate for conversion to STI. Maybe used group, 105 or Ultgra.

Cougrrcj

The frame is definitely worthy of an upgrade if you stripped the Superstrada of the Superbe Pro group.

plodderslusk

+1, one big advantage to many of these eighties frames is that they can handle 28 mm tires. I,m thrilled with the way my last conversion (Gitane Trophee 1980) rides With 28 mm Gp 4000 and ten speed Ultegra. My 87 Team Miyata takes 28 mm so maybe this frame also does.

hatrack71

I wouldn't consider 105 or Ultegra an upgrade over the top of the line Suntour Superbe Pro in any way. More modern..yes.. but better? Not really. Unless you are just after more convenient shifting.

Cougrrcj

Yes, you are correct. I should have phrased my comment that way. Personally, I'm 'old school' on all of my road bikes - they all wear SunTour barcon friction shifters!

vintagerando

Yes, looking for more convenient and smooth shifting. I have more than enough 7 speed friction bikes.

vintagerando

I did not know it could take 28mm tires.....bonus.

willie52

Soda won't remove rust. If you want to protect the good metal, try Evaporust. Designed to work by submersion, you can wrap the affected areas in rags soaked in Evaporust,cover in plastic to keep wet, then, hours later, rinse well with water and dry immediately. It will NOT hurt good metal. Buy at auto parts stores. Best stuff I've ever used on vintage,rusty car parts. It's the Holy Grail for saving rare steel.

Cougrrcj

It can at higher pressure. I've removed rust by soda blasting on my old cars.

An Evaporust or OA-soaked rag might work, but there is a lot of rust 'tunneling' under the paint, so the paint must be removed in those areas to get it all.