Corvuscorax

The Frame builders collective used to have a tutorial on hand made lugs.
Would anyone have a copy or a link ?

Thanks
Jay

Cyclist0094

It was passed around a few years ago, but IMO there wasn't any information in it you couldn't easily figure out on your own or in a forum. I would suggest looking up the frame building forums over at Velocipede. A few of those guys cut their own lugs and show them off.

unterhausen

I assume the idea was to drill as many holes as you can, cut out large chunks, and file to the final line. At least that's what I do for similar tasks.

Corvuscorax

What I am doing is Making a lug....not Carving.
What I need is one of the photos from the tutorial. I am looking for a detail from the photo that will save me time and labor in trail and error and the membership a thousand words.

Jay

Cyclist0094

Jay making a lug is just mitering and joining tubing 1 size up( ie use 1.25 tubing to make a lug for 1.125) with a .065 wall and then you file, drill, beat and grind until you get the shape and wall thickness you desire. If you don't have the equipment to weld the lug together you can substitute a higher temp brazing alloy than your intended filler material to fillet braze your lug. I did this on my first MTB frame in 1986 it was way more hassle than it was worth for a one-off lug IMO, I fillet brazed the subsequent MTB frames.

Here is a photo of a Kelly Bedford brazed lug,( I had a good photo of welded but PhotoBucket is holding it hostage ) BTW, Rich Sachs used to have a photo collage of how he prototyped his lugs on his website. He brazed them. It may still be out there in you want to look for it.

Doug Fattic 

Jay, are you familiar with bilaminate construction? Claude Butler made frames this way in England after WWII when there was a scarcity of materials. With this method, the sleeves are not make into a lug 1st but rather the sleeves and tubes are fillet brazed together at the same time. I prefer brazing a sleeve to the tube 1st and mitering them as one unit. This way you don't have as many problems with distortions.

The proper slip fit sleeve is 1/8" bigger than the tube it is being attached to with a wall thickness of .058" You can buy this tubing at Wicks or Aircraft Spruce. However an 1/8" is pretty thick so it is desirable to turn the outside down so the wall thickness is closer to .040.