Iride01 

Well then keep working with the tire and eventually you'll get it on. And I bet it can be done without levers. You just have to be happy with 1 mm gains in bead going over the rim finally. As you get to the part where it get hard to put any more over the rim, then on press in on the sidewall that is already over the rim every few inches to try and ensure it's not hanging on the bead seat. Don't push or fuss with the side that is already completely on.

Do that everytime you gain another mm or two and before you know it, it'll get loose again and be no issue. I find it helpful to have a little air in the tube to help it keep from getting pinched, but there is a thin line between too much and it won't let you get the bead in the spoke channel, and not enough so the tube gets caught between the rim and tire as you push the bead over.

I've even used this same thing to get tires off with out levers. However I think the risk to damaging the tube is greater because of the way I have to work the bead over the rim initially.

Racing Dan

Sounds like a lot of fun .. :-)

May i suggest you mount the new tyres on an old non TL rim with a tube, pump to 100 psi and let them stretch for a few days. Then retry the tyres on the new rim.

That said, the right technique is important dealing with stubborn tyres. - Remember if the first bead can on the rim, then the other can too.

smashndash

For TL, you want a wall-to-wall tape job. Doesn’t matter as much for tubes though. On my 23i rim, 25mm wasn’t enough to hit either wall. I think 27 is a minimum and 29 is a maximum for me. That is, 4-6 extra mm. Depends on how deep your center channel is and how tall your bead retention ridge is.

I would stick to 2 layers of 24mm tape. You might go TL soon.

Iride01 

I'd forgotten you said you used 24 mm tape in 21 wide (internal) rims. On my rims I only use tape wide enough to cover the spoke holes. Usually 11 mm cloth tape, Velox or others. Though I had a hard time finding narrow tape last time I needed it.

If this tape is up on the bead seat, then that may be a contributing part of the issue too. It might be correct for tubeless, but not so much for tubed.

showlow

This is what I was thinking. I actually bought some 21mm tape. I was thinking about taping up the rim and just covering the spoke holes with one layer. This wouldn't work with a tubeless set up but maybe it would be fine for using tubes.

grayEZrider

I bought the Canyon because I wanted hydro disks and full 105 components. And was happy to note it came set tubleless ready but tubed. And tubed it will stay. My two favorite ride are both 35 years old. And now pushing 70 myself I figure to squeeze 35 out of the canyon with tubes. Oh, and I try to only narrow rim tape the spokes.

Sy Reene

that was close... I almost drank the kool-aid

Gresp15C

My spouse has "tubeless ready" rims on her new bike, and she has me on a mission to find a conventional wheelset so she can fix a flat if necessary while out on the road. Some things are best left to the people who really need the performance.

base2 

Just because the rim is "tubeless ready" does not mean you/she needs tubeless tires. Tubeless ready just means the rim shape is appropriate for a tubeless tire if you choose to install one.

You can still use a regular tire.

Tubeless tires, IME have a beefier bead. The bead itself is shaped a little different to make a better seal, & the tire has a thin liner molded into the inside to prevent sealant from weeping through the casing.

My wife does well enough with Gatorskin hardshells on her Hed Belgium Plus rims. Until recently, I didn't know Velocity A23's were tubeless ready either. Technique. Technique. Technique.

To the more general audience
The OP is trying to but a tube in a new tubeless tire on first installation. It's no wonder he's having difficulty. There is too much stuff in the way in there to get anything done.

The OP needs to take out the tube. The OP needs to inflate the tubeless tire & set the beads. After successfully accomplishing that, he can then break a bead & install a tube with out the (now set) bead being in the way.

FWIW: installing a tube in a tubeless tire is still only the most desperate fix for only the most dire of circumstances where you would've most likely needed a boot anyway. Or through neglect let the sealant dry out. How frequently do you (or anyone) need to use or carry a boot with them?

As for the tubeless puncture that won't seal (read: assploding) fear that some here seem to have...It's not like plugs can't be had for $3 at the LBS. My TUBED tire left me stranded 58 miles out because of a tiny staple. With tubeless such a tiny thing would've never even been called to my attention to bother my ride.

All this fear of the unknown is irrational. It carries the same risks as everything you already accept as normal.

Gresp15C

I think the tires we've tried were regular tires. We spent days reading about the techniques for getting the tires on and off. She wanted to try some different tires, which we did. I got a tire on one wheel, and proceeded to the other. I literally didn't have enough strength to get the bead over the rim, even with a Kool Stop bead jack. Then I tried to remove the first tire, and it was about a 1/2 hour battle. The store was gracious enough to take the tires back. She doesn't have a practical way of fixing a flat while on the road with this setup. I'm sure there's some magical way of doing it. Nothing is impossible.

The other issue is that there's a resonance between the disc brakes and the spokes, so the brakes make a howling noise that you can hear all the way down the block. The bike has been back to the store 2 or 3 times, and the shop is baffled. She's ready to walk away from the bike. Naming the bike would name the shop, which we don't want to do, because they're quite reputable and we like them, but this doesn't seem to be a solvable problem. A new set of wheels would get her into a much better position, and I enjoy building wheels.

Once in a while, the bike industry needs to be reminded that regular people still ride bikes. The irony is that she would have been better off with a cheaper bike and slightly less up to date components.

Kapusta

If you are running tubes, You do not need to run the tape all the way edge to edge. Heck even if you are running tubeless you don't necessarily need to unless the fit is on the loose side, and leaks too much air when you try to seat it. I never ran rim tape edge-to-edge before tubeless, and even with tubeless I still usually don't unless I have a problem seating the bead. The one exception to this is a recent setup where the joint sleeve joint pins leave holes near the edge of the rim.

FWIW, Stans 21mm tape is recommended up to 21mm ID rims. It does not go edge to edge with my 21mm ID rims.

All that said, I don't think whether of not the tape goes edge to edge is causing your issues getting the tire onto the rim.

Stans tape is really thin. I doubt that second layer of wrap is adding much thickness, but you might want to make sure the tape is fully stuck to the bottom of the channel. sometimes if you don't push the tape down into the channel when you are applying it, it can "hammock" in the channel and you lose some depth.

showlow

I guess you all need an update. So, I went out on a 40 mile mixed ride w/ my 32mm GP5ks. I got two flats within a mile, one on the front, and one on the back. This angered me enough to give the Vittoria's another shot. When I got home I put them in a hot dryer for 3 minutes, then proceeded to pull them on my foot with all my strength all the way around the bead. Then I put them back in the dryer for 2 more minutes and tried to mount them without the tubes. I managed, with quite a fight, using both a bead jack and a lever at the same time, to pop the tires on. These tires are TIGHT, even after softening them up. They're so tight that in the central drop channel, it's difficult to get a lever under them to pry them off.

So, after I got them both on without tubes, I took half the bead back out. Then I put the tube in, completely deflated it to avoid pinching, and again used both a Kool Stop jack and a tire lever to pop them back over the bead. It wasn't easy. My technique involved palming the bead up as far as I could with all my strength, using my thumbs to push it in. Then, I would grab the Kool Stop jack and put it in the center of the bead, and pry it upwards, but not all the way on. If I tried to pry it all the way on with the bead jack the jack just slipped. So, I held some tension on with bead with the bead jack, prying it up about halfway. Then, with my right hand, I used my Pedro's lever to pop the bead the rest of the way on.

Once I got both tires seated with the tube I had to inflate them both to nearly 120 PSI just to get the tire to fully seat on the bead shelf. That's 30 PSI higher than the max recommended pressure. It would be impossible to get that much pressure into them on the road if I got a flat.

Someone above said, "The OP is trying to but a tube in a new tubeless tire on first installation. It's no wonder he's having difficulty. There is too much stuff in the way in there to get anything done." To this I say BS. Nothing about installing a tire should be this difficult. My thumbs are still sore several days later. But, I'm calmly and patiently learning to work with this stuff. Just don't try to tell me I'm doing something wrong. I'm a very decent amateur bike mechanic. The vast majority of people wouldn't be willing or able to go through what I went through to get these tires on. Changing a tire or tube should be a pretty easy thing for any cyclist who has been taught proper technique to do on the roadside. My wife, for example, has been commuting on her bike for 12 years. There's NO WAY in hell my wife could work with these rims/tires. That's BS.

base2 

Congratulations on getting them on. Seriously, give them a chance. The tubeless version is tighter fit & that is by design because it is intended to be run without tubes. Set once & never bothered again.

I run both sets of the tubed version I own of 23's at 100psi & the tubeless 25's I own at 90psi. In fact, a second set of the tubeless 25's will be arriving today 'cause we're all on lockdown & Amazon is always open. So, in a few hours it will be 4 sets in total.

Aside from that one staple that left me stranded because of tube & patch kit issues they have been wonderful tires for the last several thousand miles. Getting that tubed design tire on/off the second, third, fourth, & fifth time was indeed easier than the first installation.

I really do wish you good luck & tailwinds from here on out.