drewfio

I have a campy front wheel (chorus I believe) that needs to be overhauled and adjusted (there is play). But I can’t figure out how to remove the locknut and/or cone.

On most wheels I’ve serviced the cone and locknut are both exposed with wrench flats I can get at with cone wrenches. But this only has one nut exposed with flats. It looks like maybe there are flats on the cone, but it is too buried in the hub to get at with a cone wrench. See photos.

Can anyone explain how these are supposed to be serviced? Thanks!

jrg1244

Fairly sure I have the same set of hubs, Chorus 8 speed Exa-Drive era. I will check them when I get home tonight, but I'd think, in the meantime, you can put one wrench on the drive side and another on the other side. Not sure which one will loosen first, but it will let you get a look inside to see what's happening there. I'll post again later.

drewfio

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, that makes sense for loosening. But how would I close and adjust them after repacking. Usually I hold the cone in place while I tighten the lock nut on the same side to hold the adjustment. Unless I'm being dense, I don't think it would work to hold the other side?

jrg1244

I agree, it only works to get them apart. You may be missing something like another nut or have the wrong cone in there. Also, you may have the wrong size bearings, allowing the cone to screw in too far, which would hide the flat. I'll look at mine and take a picture of what I have later.

Looking more closely, are you sure that isn't a wrench flat between the inside lip of the locknut and the dust cap on the hub? It looks like it might be from the pictures... It also kinda lines up with the theory that you may have the wrong size bearings in there... You'll need some thin wrenches!

drewfio

Oh, interesting about possibly being the wrong size bearing in there. I pulled these wheels off a bike I just picked up, with an interesting mishmash of parts, so who knows the history. When you do get the chance to check your hubs, if you could tell me the correct bearing size, I can compare to what I find in mine. Thanks!

repechage

Been a long time, but I would look for 7/32” ball bearings.

Rick_D

SWAG once you remove the dust cap you'll be able to access the cone's inner flat to lock in the proper tension. Or discover it takes "a special too." The dust cap must be replaceable last, after the rebuild is complete.
With an older Record hub, the dust cap goes in place before all that, which is possible because both flats are exposed.
I presume a wrench on each lock nut will allow you to take these apart in order to see what's really happening. Never worked on one, myself.
Good luck!

drewfio

Okay, I tracked down some more photos of what I believe to be the same hub. The dust cap and locknut situation looks the same:
https://www.pedalpedlar.co.uk/produc...0c-road-wheels
https://www.ebay.com/itm/325717850938

And what I believe to be the manual for the hub (page 38): https://www.campagnolo-sirer.cz/img/...olo%201998.pdf

Looks likw the dust caps press in, and this might happen after the hubs are assembled. So, my plan is:

1. do what jrg1244 suggested, and open them via nuts on either side.
2. With the dust cap still on, remove cone from side that comes loose, assuming this will be possible without a wrench grip on the flats, with the locknut removed.
3. Pull axle out through the other side
4. Pry out one of the dust caps
5. Clean, grease, repack
6. Reassemble and adjust with dust cap off
7. Lastly, slip dust cap over nut and cone, and press it into the hub

This all assumes the cones and axle can slide through the dust cap, which I think it can. But if anyone knows a better way, I'm all ears (eyes?).

P!N20

This might help: https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site...e_page_62.html

drewfio

Update: I did the steps I outlined above, and it worked. Hooray. The seals easily popped off with a little pry after removing the locknut. And the cone threaded off by hand. It was a little weird adjusting with the bearings and grease exposed, and putting the seal on afterward. Seems easier to get contaminated that way, and you'd have to take it all apart to make further adjustment. Perhaps there is in fact a better way I haven't thought of. Anyway, they are repacked and adjusted.

They could spin more smoothly though. Definitely rideable, but there was some wear on the cups. I seem to remember hearing it was possible to replace the cups in these hubs?





And for future people searching for this, since it wasn't super easy to track down info, here are some things google might pick up:
- This is for overhauling Campagnolo Chorus 9 speed era front hub.
- And for removing locknut and dust cap (Campy calls this the hub seal in the manual).
- From what I can tell the hub model is HB-20CH
- Here is a shot from the diagram in manual:

repechage

Repair parts of course were made, the question of course who might have them, know what they have and how much money to obtain them. Campagnolo cups were never
‘easy’ to exchange. Probably a complete replacement hub would be the way to go.

drewfio

These cups match the part number in the diagram, and look like they might be the right part:
https://www.planetx.co.uk/products/c...g-cup-hb-ch001

Not terribly expensive either, though the shipping cost to US may be killer. I've never ordered from there before either.

I also have no idea how one removes and replaces cups in a hub.

repechage

no wonder that hub felt rough, those appear very Normandy.
‘no grinding of the bearing track.
‘the downmarket components really went downmarket. Disappointed.
‘if you could get a pair for $10, factor in the tools and time to remove and replace to a tolerable level…

drewfio

What do you mean by Normandy—as in the Maillard hubs, or some other meaning I'm not familiar with? Do you think the cups shown are low quality? I would hope Campy Chorus level hubs would provide a smooth enough ride, no?

repechage

‘Normandy hub quality level, they just appear stamped and cheap, probably heat treated but not trued up after.
‘the Mighty have fallen.
Nuovo tipo hubs were basically the same, the way the hub was machined on those, races near impossible to remove. I won’t say impossible, but be ready for a brain teaser.

drewfio

Ah, I see. Do you know of a specific tool or process for removing and installing cups on hubs like these?
I know I could get a new hub, but part of the reason I enjoy working on old bikes is bringing these things back to life, and avoiding having them become trash if they are fixable, within reason.

repechage

Never thought of it on these. For Original Record hubs, dry Ice and a heat gun are your friend.
‘no idea if there is a way to catch an edge 3-4 places at a time to squarely drive them out.

the quantity of tools needing to be rounded up is piling up fast.

‘I suggest being sensible.