Soody

I bought this old mtb. It has been in storage for 10 years. The previous owner toured around Japan on it. It's really rough. Rust. Bearings all bad. I like it a lot though.

Velo Mule

Here is what I like to do in this situation. Let me say that not everyone on BF agrees with this technique, but it has worked for me and so far I have done no harm to the good race inside the hub.

Clean out the grease in the hub. Often I use the old bearing if they look good. You said that the bearing are pitted, so start with new bearings. Get automotive valve lapping compound. It is gritty. Place the lapping compound into the bearing race the same as you would for grease. Adjust the cones as normal. It will feel different because of the valve lapping compound, but you are looking for a just right adjustment.

Place the axle in a drill and hold the hub with your other hand. Turn on the drill. Let it run on and off for about 5 minutes. Disassemble the hub and look at the bearing surfaces. If there are improving, then reassemble and keep going. If they are good, then stop.

Once the surfaces are reasonably smooth, clean the lapping compound out of the hub. Use solvent of your choice to get all of it out. Throw away the ball bearings that you used with the lapping compound. Then reassemble the hub with new bearings the same as normal.

Looking the picture of your cone, this may or may not work since it is deeply pitted. You don't have much to loose either. Keep an eye on your hub race to be sure that doesn't degrade.

Let us know if you try this and how it worked out if you try it.

madpogue 

Since the OP mentioned that the cups appear good, I would do the above ONLY using a junk hub as a place-holder. There's a LOT to clean up on that cone, which means a lot of "run time" on that procedure. I wouldn't subject a good hub to that.

TenGrainBread 

How worn are the brake tracks? If the rims are close to being donezo I'd start looking for a new wheelset.

Soody

interesting technique and i might try it with a different bike that i need to do as well if that's less pitted

bikemig 

I love picking up old MTBs like this and keep two around the house as loaner bikes. That's too bad about the cones but replacements should not be that hard to find. Shimano made like a zillion of these hubs and I doubt it matters whether the donor hub is an xt, dx, lx, or just plain deore. There is pretty decent interchangeability.

I'd look around in the usual places like a bike co op for older shimano mtb hubs. Also put up a wtb in the local online classifieds. You should be able to find old beat up wheels with usable cones. A wtb in the C&V for sale forum might also work but you are in NZ and a long ways from most forum members.

Soody

Yeah so I took the wheel to a local community used bike shop
looked through parts bins for ages, could find 1 good cone that fits
they ended up ordering me some new from shimano which apparently should work, so that's great
the rims have life in em too and they're straight

Soody

Is the middle ring supposed to be like this for shifting or is it dead?

Lascauxcaveman 

It should work OK. Depends a bit on the chain and whether it's in decent shape and lubed. Ride it to find out.

Soody

cool thanks
i got a new kmc chain for it

bertinjim 

Wheels Manufacturing sells new cones and axles in case the shop version doesn't work out. Here: https://wheelsmfg.com/products/hub-parts/all-cones.html

Soody

the first shop i tried, a flash shop, had a wheels mfg case of cones.
I had only taken in the cones, and they said none were the same.

I took the axle and the cones and the whole shebang to the second shop, a lower rent community type place. They set me to looking through boxes and boxes of old cones, and said that any which fitted on the axle should work.
None did so they ordered some, I think actually from shimano.

I'm a bit confused about how exact cones do have to be and I think if for some reason the cones the second shop has ordered for me don't work, i'll take the axle into the first shop and see if any of the wheels mfg cones fit on it and if those might work.

Very confusing lol and I know i'm doing this baby mode with modern-ish shimano parts and compatibility. Huge huge respect for people keeping much older bikes in good service.

Soody

I'm thinking about getting it blasted and powdercoated
Prices 120-180 NZD
Thoughts?

Soody

I cut out and drilled this pulley out a bit because it was missing from the stem.
It's a 1-1/8" stem so hard to just replace
hopefully this should work ok

2cam16

I'd do it if I could find the same decals.

clubman 

Yeah, it's bloody unfair that you can find a Rocky Mtn in NZ and I've been looking in Canada for years. argh.

Soody

aaagggghhhhhhhhhh

2cam16

Oh man!

Soody

yeah...
this frame is trash now right?

katsup

I'd personally part it out as I'd be concerned of unseen damage. Others may repair it, but not worth it to me.

Mr. 66

tis but a scratch...

madpogue 

Yuh, "that'll buff out", right?

VtwinVince

Cool frame, looks like a '92. I'd save it, old Rockies are worth the effort.

Soody

local shop is going to weld it

Soody

Welding is done.
There's a local place that does '100% inhibited phosphoric acid base' dipping
The powdercoater could also blast it
Not sure. Thoughts?