WGB 

I planned to start long ride on League Fuji this AM but noisy BB, almost grinding. Didn't get 1/4 mile.

Easy one first. Switched pedals. No joy. Back to stand. Stripped out both cups. Cleaned and scrutinized. No pitting on those or spindle. Completely cleaned threads of BB. New grease in cups and new bearings.
** Old bearings were in a cage. New bearings loose.
I'd say new grease (and therefore new bearings) were coming due but neither bearings nor spindle nor cups were pitted though old Park grease quite dark.

All seemed good but still getting a clicking sound. Pedals are reefed on. Didn't use torque wrench but used Park pedal wrench and now on tight! Pedals were tight previous but not on super tight.

Chain ring bolts very tight ( I used an allen key and the tool that holds the rear to prevent slipping). Prior to this morning one chain ring bolt seemed slightly loose (I did tighten it about 1 half turn).

Crank bolts weren't super tight before but now are good and tight.

My questions.

1) Would have used torque wrench but have no idea torque for Sugino BT cranks. Does anyone know the correct torque for those crank bolts??

2) Pedals are on tight
Crank bolts are tight
Chain ring bolts tight.
BB cups are set and at least when on stand they
are running smooth.

Anybody have anything else I can try???

Andrew R Stewart 

I assume tapered square BB and cranks. Retaining bolts torque is generally stated at around 25-30 foot pounds.

Grinding can be from just too much preload on the bearings even if in good condition (as in too tight a Bb adjustment), Or the wear on the ball tracks is enough to feel rough even though it looks un pitted. Pedal tightness is not usually a grinding issue but their bearings can be so. Crank bolt tightness is also not usually a grinding issue.

"Grinding" usually means a fairly constant and even noise with little ups and downs to the nature. Often means some rolling or meshing issue, not loose fittings/hardware. One point I am confused about is how you looked at the balls and their contact tracks without wiping off the grease and thus needing to add more on reassembly.

I would also look at the rear hub. Andy

WGB 

Sorry Andy.

Meant that when I removed the BB cups I inspected the balls, cups and spindle and to do so I removed the caged bearings which were still thick with old grease. I normally would've just tossed the caged bearings as soon as the cups were out but wanted to see them up close first. Again only real issue that I saw was the Park grease had gone very dark instead of usual light green. I then replaced the grease and this time I used loose bearings. I normally use loose bearings and can't recall why I'd have used caged last time. I figured also that by using loose bearings, if there was fine pitting starting, the new bearings might touch in different spots and not where previous bearings might have scored the cups. Not sure if true but worth the hope.

The grinding noise was quite steady though yes it did vary.

Should have said that clicking is minimal and nothing like the grinding. . More concerned to clear any issue before click worsens.....

I'll use torque wrench in AM to check crank bolts for what it's worth.

Just wondering if crank bolt washers might have helped?

Rear wheel next.

Thanks Wesley

MudPie

See this site for torque values https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...s-and-concepts

Assuming you have square taper, the recommended range is "Crank bolt (including spline-type cranks and square-spindle cranks) 305–391 in-lb", which is equal to 25.4 to 32.6 ft-lb.