Why do I want disc brakes?
#76
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Always I forget that most participants on the bike forum are enthusiasts. For the person that is into the sport or hobby there is no end to "performance" upgrades. For the average person that rides a bike for commuting, trail riding, general fun, there is a limit and at the shop we hear from them quite loudly when that limit has been reached! Disc brakes for the average person, especially hydro models, are a mistake. They are not like a rim brake where after years of neglect just add lube and they work again. They are costly to replace, do not do well under neglected maintenance, and most of them cannot be successfully rebuilt.
For the enthusiast that is into cycling as a serious hobby disc brakes are fine, but for the rest of the world hydro disc brakes are a mistake.
For the enthusiast that is into cycling as a serious hobby disc brakes are fine, but for the rest of the world hydro disc brakes are a mistake.
As for servicing disc systems, yes, they do need more time and effort invested and absolutely should get that to keep them in top condition - I have taken good care of my 29er's system in the last year and intend to do the same with my new road bike because I race the MTB and no doubt will do so on the new bike too...but...that said, I have a 21 year old Giant ATX 880 MTB that still rides like new with Giant MPH hydro discs that have never, ever been serviced! It has never seen heavy use, more of a bike to pop down to the shops on, guests to use etc. But...shows that discs need not be the nightmare some imagine them to be.
Last edited by AlgarveCycling; 07-12-20 at 06:47 AM.
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Always I forget that most participants on the bike forum are enthusiasts. For the person that is into the sport or hobby there is no end to "performance" upgrades. For the average person that rides a bike for commuting, trail riding, general fun, there is a limit and at the shop we hear from them quite loudly when that limit has been reached! Disc brakes for the average person, especially hydro models, are a mistake. They are not like a rim brake where after years of neglect just add lube and they work again. They are costly to replace, do not do well under neglected maintenance, and most of them cannot be successfully rebuilt.
For the enthusiast that is into cycling as a serious hobby disc brakes are fine, but for the rest of the world hydro disc brakes are a mistake.
For the enthusiast that is into cycling as a serious hobby disc brakes are fine, but for the rest of the world hydro disc brakes are a mistake.
#78
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I sure would hope that a bike that was purchased for $1000 would sell for more than a bike that was purchased for $700, a few years later.
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I come to this with the experience of a former racer, from about 1997 until 2006 I think.
All road bikes had rim brakes at the time. We also rode 23-25mm tires and occasionally 20mm. So it was different.
At thethe start of the race, you threw your spare wheels in the back of a truck. If you got a flat or wrecked, the truck was there for you to grab a wheel, it didn't have to be yours and it was understood that anyone could grab a wheel. It got pit back in the pile at the end of the race. Basically the only thing to pay attention to was Campy or Shimano. Depending on new releases, it didn't hurt to count cogs either. In general though, you could finish, and even still do very well on some strangers wheel.
I have disc brakes on my mountain bike. It's hard enough to keep them from rubbing at all. I swear barometric pressure causes light rubbing some days. It's totally possible to get two wheelsets if you're very careful. It would be pure luck or impossible to do a neutral wheel change at the amateur level. No yellow bike to swap out.
I don't race anymore so don't know how it is, I just can't imagine that neutral wheels is even worth it anymore. I dunno.
So that's one reason to dislike them.
On the other hand, they work very well. My basic Shimano hydro discs stop my mountain bike amazing. I have no doubt they'd stop a road bike very well too.
All that said, I've cornered on wet mountain roads. My lifetime max has been 58mph. I've gone shoulder to shoulder with dozens of others. And I've done some of the steepest stuff on carbon rims. This is all with rim brakes. They do work. Quite well actually. I wouldn't argue that they're better but they certainly aren't a liability.
Wider tires, better modulation, and bikes that are still light with wide tires+ heavier hubs + more spokes is pretty hard to argue with. Still seems a lot like marketing to me.
All road bikes had rim brakes at the time. We also rode 23-25mm tires and occasionally 20mm. So it was different.
At thethe start of the race, you threw your spare wheels in the back of a truck. If you got a flat or wrecked, the truck was there for you to grab a wheel, it didn't have to be yours and it was understood that anyone could grab a wheel. It got pit back in the pile at the end of the race. Basically the only thing to pay attention to was Campy or Shimano. Depending on new releases, it didn't hurt to count cogs either. In general though, you could finish, and even still do very well on some strangers wheel.
I have disc brakes on my mountain bike. It's hard enough to keep them from rubbing at all. I swear barometric pressure causes light rubbing some days. It's totally possible to get two wheelsets if you're very careful. It would be pure luck or impossible to do a neutral wheel change at the amateur level. No yellow bike to swap out.
I don't race anymore so don't know how it is, I just can't imagine that neutral wheels is even worth it anymore. I dunno.
So that's one reason to dislike them.
On the other hand, they work very well. My basic Shimano hydro discs stop my mountain bike amazing. I have no doubt they'd stop a road bike very well too.
All that said, I've cornered on wet mountain roads. My lifetime max has been 58mph. I've gone shoulder to shoulder with dozens of others. And I've done some of the steepest stuff on carbon rims. This is all with rim brakes. They do work. Quite well actually. I wouldn't argue that they're better but they certainly aren't a liability.
Wider tires, better modulation, and bikes that are still light with wide tires+ heavier hubs + more spokes is pretty hard to argue with. Still seems a lot like marketing to me.
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^^^^everytime I see your handle "rosefarts".....I ROTFLMFAO
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I see there have been several answers to my claim of easy wheel changes pre-disc, I am not going to go back and look. I'll just point out that I have several bikes that started as geared bikes and now run fixed, That rear brake doesn't care. Nor does it care where I set the wheel to get the chain slack right. Dropout spacing is all that matter. Hub dish and axle spacing? Only the chainline cares.
Now, I do not run brifters. I use Tektro levers with their low-tech releases on top of the releases on the calipers. (I use 7 different brake models of 4 different types. They all work with the levers I like to wrap my hands around.) I get enough opening to accommodate fat tires and skinny rims that work, without deflating, up to 38c on Open Pros. My best bikes were built around 28c (chainstays and seattube angle to get the position and weight balance A-1 for the road) so those bikes will never need more than what dual pivots can do easily.
I am now fudging a front derailleur to run a 42nn chainline triple with a tiny inner ring. (To postpone two knee replacements, hopefully until the next lifetime. Q-factor.) In the process of getting it (them) to work, I have put on at least 8 FDs so far and that rear wheel has come on and off more times than I can possibly estimate. That it is easy, an operation that can be done brain-dead - what a gift! Thank you, Tullio!
And another point - cost. All my brakes are real stoppers. I don't think I bought any of them new. Pretty certain that the brakes of all 5 of my bikes cost me less than one good disc set. Maintenance cost? I can go to the shop, buy 2 bikes worth each of canti post and road lever pads, a couple sets of cables, a few feet of housing and all 5 bikes are good to go the next 2 years. A little TriFlo (or whatever I'm using on my chain).
Ben
Now, I do not run brifters. I use Tektro levers with their low-tech releases on top of the releases on the calipers. (I use 7 different brake models of 4 different types. They all work with the levers I like to wrap my hands around.) I get enough opening to accommodate fat tires and skinny rims that work, without deflating, up to 38c on Open Pros. My best bikes were built around 28c (chainstays and seattube angle to get the position and weight balance A-1 for the road) so those bikes will never need more than what dual pivots can do easily.
I am now fudging a front derailleur to run a 42nn chainline triple with a tiny inner ring. (To postpone two knee replacements, hopefully until the next lifetime. Q-factor.) In the process of getting it (them) to work, I have put on at least 8 FDs so far and that rear wheel has come on and off more times than I can possibly estimate. That it is easy, an operation that can be done brain-dead - what a gift! Thank you, Tullio!
And another point - cost. All my brakes are real stoppers. I don't think I bought any of them new. Pretty certain that the brakes of all 5 of my bikes cost me less than one good disc set. Maintenance cost? I can go to the shop, buy 2 bikes worth each of canti post and road lever pads, a couple sets of cables, a few feet of housing and all 5 bikes are good to go the next 2 years. A little TriFlo (or whatever I'm using on my chain).
Ben
#84
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Well, I definitely think the industry is pushing disc brakes for the road. But I also know several owners of bike shops - and they all mention how at a certain price point (>3K) everybody wants discs.
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Damn, most of you guys must be running some cheap ass rim brakes
https://www.amazon.com/TRP-SPYRE-All...22031577&psc=1
Arguably one of the best mechanical disc brakes made, come in either MTB or road bike pull ratios, less expensive than a discount priced 105 caliper.
You guys do realize disc brakes don't have to be hydros?
https://www.amazon.com/TRP-SPYRE-All...22031577&psc=1
Arguably one of the best mechanical disc brakes made, come in either MTB or road bike pull ratios, less expensive than a discount priced 105 caliper.
You guys do realize disc brakes don't have to be hydros?
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Damn, most of you guys must be running some cheap ass rim brakes
https://www.amazon.com/TRP-SPYRE-All...22031577&psc=1
Arguably one of the best mechanical disc brakes made, come in either MTB or road bike pull ratios, less expensive than a discount priced 105 caliper.
You guys do realize disc brakes don't have to be hydros?
https://www.amazon.com/TRP-SPYRE-All...22031577&psc=1
Arguably one of the best mechanical disc brakes made, come in either MTB or road bike pull ratios, less expensive than a discount priced 105 caliper.
You guys do realize disc brakes don't have to be hydros?
#87
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As i have stated for a long time disc brakes are more logical. They dont wear out the rims! Also a bike designed for disc brakes can have stronger lighter and more aero rims.
I am old enough to remember when riders were against click shifting back in the middle 80s. Some cyclist seem to be some of the most anti progress people around. Witness they are still riding a machine that was invented around 1890, and dont want to change.
And lastly everyone might as well embrace discs brakes, because the manufactures have.
I am old enough to remember when riders were against click shifting back in the middle 80s. Some cyclist seem to be some of the most anti progress people around. Witness they are still riding a machine that was invented around 1890, and dont want to change.
And lastly everyone might as well embrace discs brakes, because the manufactures have.
Last edited by rydabent; 07-12-20 at 06:45 PM.
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I come to this with the experience of a former racer, from about 1997 until 2006 I think.
All road bikes had rim brakes at the time. We also rode 23-25mm tires and occasionally 20mm. So it was different.
At thethe start of the race, you threw your spare wheels in the back of a truck. If you got a flat or wrecked, the truck was there for you to grab a wheel, it didn't have to be yours and it was understood that anyone could grab a wheel. It got pit back in the pile at the end of the race. Basically the only thing to pay attention to was Campy or Shimano. Depending on new releases, it didn't hurt to count cogs either. In general though, you could finish, and even still do very well on some strangers wheel.
I have disc brakes on my mountain bike. It's hard enough to keep them from rubbing at all. I swear barometric pressure causes light rubbing some days. It's totally possible to get two wheelsets if you're very careful. It would be pure luck or impossible to do a neutral wheel change at the amateur level. No yellow bike to swap out.
I don't race anymore so don't know how it is, I just can't imagine that neutral wheels is even worth it anymore. I dunno.
So that's one reason to dislike them.
On the other hand, they work very well. My basic Shimano hydro discs stop my mountain bike amazing. I have no doubt they'd stop a road bike very well too.
All that said, I've cornered on wet mountain roads. My lifetime max has been 58mph. I've gone shoulder to shoulder with dozens of others. And I've done some of the steepest stuff on carbon rims. This is all with rim brakes. They do work. Quite well actually. I wouldn't argue that they're better but they certainly aren't a liability.
Wider tires, better modulation, and bikes that are still light with wide tires+ heavier hubs + more spokes is pretty hard to argue with. Still seems a lot like marketing to me.
All road bikes had rim brakes at the time. We also rode 23-25mm tires and occasionally 20mm. So it was different.
At thethe start of the race, you threw your spare wheels in the back of a truck. If you got a flat or wrecked, the truck was there for you to grab a wheel, it didn't have to be yours and it was understood that anyone could grab a wheel. It got pit back in the pile at the end of the race. Basically the only thing to pay attention to was Campy or Shimano. Depending on new releases, it didn't hurt to count cogs either. In general though, you could finish, and even still do very well on some strangers wheel.
I have disc brakes on my mountain bike. It's hard enough to keep them from rubbing at all. I swear barometric pressure causes light rubbing some days. It's totally possible to get two wheelsets if you're very careful. It would be pure luck or impossible to do a neutral wheel change at the amateur level. No yellow bike to swap out.
I don't race anymore so don't know how it is, I just can't imagine that neutral wheels is even worth it anymore. I dunno.
So that's one reason to dislike them.
On the other hand, they work very well. My basic Shimano hydro discs stop my mountain bike amazing. I have no doubt they'd stop a road bike very well too.
All that said, I've cornered on wet mountain roads. My lifetime max has been 58mph. I've gone shoulder to shoulder with dozens of others. And I've done some of the steepest stuff on carbon rims. This is all with rim brakes. They do work. Quite well actually. I wouldn't argue that they're better but they certainly aren't a liability.
Wider tires, better modulation, and bikes that are still light with wide tires+ heavier hubs + more spokes is pretty hard to argue with. Still seems a lot like marketing to me.
#90
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Because that design works well even in the 21st century. Disregarding the rim brake argument, coaster brakes are still a thing in many 1-speed and 3-speed adult sized bikes. Not sure if that brake design will go away completely as it seems sufficient for the slower speed bikes that coaster brakes are used on.
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As i have stated for a long time disc brakes are more logical. They dont wear out the rims! Also a bike designed for disc brakes can have stronger lighter and more aero rims.
I am old enough to remember when riders were against click shifting back in the middle 80s. Some cyclist seem to be some of the most anti progress people around. Witness they are still riding a machine that was invented around 1890, and dont want to change.
And lastly everyone might as well embrace discs brakes, because the manufactures have.
I am old enough to remember when riders were against click shifting back in the middle 80s. Some cyclist seem to be some of the most anti progress people around. Witness they are still riding a machine that was invented around 1890, and dont want to change.
And lastly everyone might as well embrace discs brakes, because the manufactures have.
#95
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Obviously y'all have put some thought into your responses. Appreciate that. But I think I owe you guys an apology. The disc brakes on the Canyon I've been looking at are really only one aspect of it that drew my attention. A more stable, comfortable geometry and the gearing right out of the box are probably more important to me. The Campy Record EPS V3 currently on my BMC doesn't offer an economical path to lower gearing than the 34-29 combo where as the Canyon sports a 34-30 combo stock and can go to a 34-32 for < $100.
In any case, I got word this morning that they have their Endurance CF SL Disc 8.0 in my size in stock. Placed the order with the wife's blessing shortly after that. So now I just wait....
In any case, I got word this morning that they have their Endurance CF SL Disc 8.0 in my size in stock. Placed the order with the wife's blessing shortly after that. So now I just wait....
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Look at the new road bike offerings from all of the major manufacturers. Rim brakes are going away.
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