Gear Ratio Question - Track set up to normal Fixie
12-11-17, 02:46 AM
#27
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must be the first newbie post on here in a while which didn't result in a riot of some description.
Well done guys! We can be helpful!
Well done guys! We can be helpful!
12-31-17, 01:05 AM
#28
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50/20 gearing
Great thread! Nice to see what gearing others are running! I have been obsessing about this lately...
I recently acquired a ss commuter, 50/20 gearing, gates belt drive, 29er.
My commute is currently 11 miles RT, with one small 500 ft climb. That little hill is not easy and I'm concerned my gearing is too tall.
Soon my commute will double in length with more climbing. Not a long commute by any stretch but that small hill is haunting me. Do you think changing to 50/22 will make enough of a difference to be worth it? Of course belt drive makes it a pain in the wallet to change gearing...
I know there are a lot of variables involved but what gearing would you recommend? Or should I just STFU and man up?
Cheers!
I recently acquired a ss commuter, 50/20 gearing, gates belt drive, 29er.
My commute is currently 11 miles RT, with one small 500 ft climb. That little hill is not easy and I'm concerned my gearing is too tall.
Soon my commute will double in length with more climbing. Not a long commute by any stretch but that small hill is haunting me. Do you think changing to 50/22 will make enough of a difference to be worth it? Of course belt drive makes it a pain in the wallet to change gearing...
I know there are a lot of variables involved but what gearing would you recommend? Or should I just STFU and man up?
Cheers!
12-31-17, 12:02 PM
#29
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
I will say this though. The difference between a 22t rear cog and a 20t will be very noticeable. It will be Close to a 10% percent change. Try to imagine that, and base your decision on that.
12-31-17, 12:51 PM
#30
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There definitely are too many for anyone to make an intelligent recommendation. Experimenting is the only way to know for sure.
I will say this though. The difference between a 22t rear cog and a 20t will be very noticeable. It will be Close to a 10% percent change. Try to imagine that, and base your decision on that.
I will say this though. The difference between a 22t rear cog and a 20t will be very noticeable. It will be Close to a 10% percent change. Try to imagine that, and base your decision on that.
12-31-17, 12:51 PM
#31
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The right choice is driven by the terrain and your strength. You need to balance climbing capability against lower cruising speed. I usually end up using a gear roughly 10% less than the the most used ratio on my road bike.
If there were no hills, I'd match the gear rather than go less, and if there were rolling terrain with steep climbs, I might go lower with the understanding that I won't be cruising along on flat ground anyway.
But we're all different, and it's not logical to suppose that you can decide on the right gear based on advice or calculations. Just pick something in the ball park, ride a while, and see what your legs tell you.
If there were no hills, I'd match the gear rather than go less, and if there were rolling terrain with steep climbs, I might go lower with the understanding that I won't be cruising along on flat ground anyway.
But we're all different, and it's not logical to suppose that you can decide on the right gear based on advice or calculations. Just pick something in the ball park, ride a while, and see what your legs tell you.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
