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First Road Bike Recommendations

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

First Road Bike Recommendations

Old 06-03-19, 05:42 PM
  #26  
caloso
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I'm kidding. I have cousins in Milwaukee and Madison and I always rib them about owning Treks. (I have owned a couple myself.) Re the Checkpoint, I don't know but you could ask in the Gravel/CX subforum.
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Old 06-03-19, 10:35 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by wiscobadger
What would the 1.2 be equivalent to nowadays? He said it's 1-2 seasons old. It's easy for me to justify that price if it will suffice. I'm seeing what else they have in stock in my size too.
For Trek, the closest to a 1.2 would be the Domane AL 2. My 1.2 came with Claris, and so does the new Domane AL 2. But it's the new Claris, so both the brake and shifter cables are under the bar tape. My 1.2 (and probably the one you're looking at) didn't have the shift cables under the bar tape, and didn't have as clean of a look.
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Old 06-06-19, 06:36 PM
  #28  
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I rode a Specialized Allez Sport today. It was a fun bike. Kind of hard to compare with the Checkpoint and Domane when they’re not side by side.
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Old 06-07-19, 10:03 PM
  #29  
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I’m going to look at the 1.2 tomorrow. Given it’s a few seasons old is there anything I should look at/for? I think I’m going to buy if it I like how it rides.
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Old 06-08-19, 03:51 AM
  #30  
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You might try shopping for used bikes to get back into it. Use it for a year or so, decide what you like or what suits you more and then invest in a new bike. As for budget, I don't think that you mentioned that. You might also look at a sportive road bike with more of an upward stance and not as low and mean as a racing bike setup. Unless you are racing, you won't notice any difference. Oh, how about a gravel bike? You can put some 700 x 28 tires on it and it will feel pretty close to a road bike, or some 700 x 38 tires and ride anywhere. If you are in Wisconsin, which is pretty flat from my memory, don't obsess about a bike with disk brakes. Not really necessary there.
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Old 06-08-19, 07:52 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Fox Farm
You might try shopping for used bikes to get back into it. Use it for a year or so, decide what you like or what suits you more and then invest in a new bike. As for budget, I don't think that you mentioned that. You might also look at a sportive road bike with more of an upward stance and not as low and mean as a racing bike setup. Unless you are racing, you won't notice any difference. Oh, how about a gravel bike? You can put some 700 x 28 tires on it and it will feel pretty close to a road bike, or some 700 x 38 tires and ride anywhere. If you are in Wisconsin, which is pretty flat from my memory, don't obsess about a bike with disk brakes. Not really necessary there.
Thanks! Definitely want something new whether it be the 1.2 for $500 or something else. I’m going to check it out soon. Should I be concerned about when it was last lubed up and such since it’s a few model years old?
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Old 06-08-19, 09:51 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by wiscobadger
Thanks! Definitely want something new whether it be the 1.2 for $500 or something else. I’m going to check it out soon. Should I be concerned about when it was last lubed up and such since it’s a few model years old?
I bought the 1.2. Rides great and I like the color scheme. It’s a 2017 model.
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Old 06-08-19, 11:13 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by wiscobadger
I bought the 1.2. Rides great and I like the color scheme. It’s a 2017 model.
You are a wise man ..... LOL .....

Gerat news. Best way to get back into biking for a lot of people is to get lucky with a used bike, and learn how you like to ride.

I assume you read the fine print when you joined---if you don't post pics within three days of purchase, BF members are allowed to confiscate your new bike ... you saw that, right? So .... up to you.
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Old 06-08-19, 11:26 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Maelochs
You are a wise man ..... LOL .....

Gerat news. Best way to get back into biking for a lot of people is to get lucky with a used bike, and learn how you like to ride.

I assume you read the fine print when you joined---if you don't post pics within three days of purchase, BF members are allowed to confiscate your new bike ... you saw that, right? So .... up to you.
Will definitely post pics once I pick it up.

Any suggestions for for the following?

Rear light: looks like the Flare RT is raved about. Is it worth the money for a new/casual rider?

Helmet

Lock

Anything else I need?
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Old 06-08-19, 12:21 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by wiscobadger

Anything else I need?
IMO, you don't want to cheap out on lights if you are riding on roads. A front light is also a good idea, even if just for daytime visibility.

Spare tube or patch kit, tire levers, and inflation device (either a portable pump or CO2 cartridges + inflator) are a must unless you want to call for a ride whenever you get a flat. A bike tool or set of Allen keys is helpful for minor adjustments. A seat pack is an easy way to transport these items on the bike, though they can also be put in a jersey pocket or backpack (if you ride with one).

Above and beyond that, what you 'need' will depend on how far your budget and imagination can take you
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Old 06-08-19, 12:28 PM
  #36  
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Helmet ..... some folks would tell you not to bother ... but are tired of getting flamed by people with no data to back up their opinions. I suggest that you spend not very much, though. I read about the high-tech Mips and Wavecell lids .... they offer some protection up to about 13.8 mph. So as long as you never go faster than that .... hmmmm.

I have always used Bell because they fit the shape of my head. I have always bought whatever was on sale or closeout.

The smartest analysis of helmet value came from a poster here who said he wore a helmet not to save his life but to save his ride---any crash over a minimal speed would be fatal no matter what helmet he was wearing, but for some other crashes, a helmet might prevent a big-enough gash to require an ambulance ride---instead, he'd have a headache, maybe a concussion, but could ride home.

So .... I buy helmets based on looking decent (IMO) and being fairly cheap models from major brands---Bell never made a helmet which didn't meet code, and I trust their quality control. If I knew another brand always fit my head and was of the same stature, I'd use them.

I tend to use Cygolite Hotshot tail lights. $30-$40 online, but they last and they are bright. I will have to research whatever you listed ... one sec.

The Flare looks awesome. A bit of money, and I don't know how it handles weather, but it has all the right features.

Check this out about the Cygolite Hotshot 100 (https://www.thegeekycyclist.com/prod...e-hotshot-100/)

"Pros
"Very bright and visible light. Ensures other road users don’t have any excuse for not seeing you.
"Recharge Quickly. No more long waits before hitting the road.
"Cons
"Can be Blinding to Other Users. Due to the high brightness, it has to be set low so as not to obstruct the view of others, especially when in a group ride."


$34 on Amazon. But the Flare seems to be in the same class .... 65 lumens as opposed to 100 (or 50, for the Hotshot 50) and bright enough for day or night use ... long life, USB recharge .... either one looks great.

I am a big believer in tail lights because the more time a driver has to prepare for you the better the odds he or she actually will.

Lock? I have long maintained that you buy not bike security but personal security--peace of mind.

(Prepackaged, oft-repeated rant incoming

If your bike is nice enough, it can be stolen. People will steal a bike depending on cost benefit analysis---and if your bike is worth $500 or so to a fence, some guy will jump out of his van, whip out his angle grinder, and saw through whatever lock/chain you are using---Whatever. No chain or lock cannot be defeated. If you have a bike worth a lot of money it is never safe out of sight.

If you have a normal bike, people will steal it for drug money or joy rides. Drug-money thieves probably don't have a lot of gear, and probably plan to cut the chain and ride away. A serious hardened chain (a few dollars a foot at the local hardware store) and a decent padlock will beat most of them.

If you lock up your bike in an area with a lot of sketchy people and leave it for a long period of time .... well, ...... or if you lock it in an urban area and leave it for a long period of time ..... but for most uses, a hardened chain and a serious lock (not a serious "bike-specific" lock---those are outrageously expensive and no better than any other unless you go to the super-high-end and pay as much for the lock and chain as you do for the bike) will discourage thieves---they will go looking for easier prey.

The third class of thief is the joy-rider, who will steal anything easy to steal. Any lock which makes your bike not easy to steal will do.

I have used cable locks, even though a person can saw through a steel cable with a steak knife (in time) or cut through with regular wire cutters. When locking up at the library or grocery store, that is probably enough, unless you live in a college town with a bad bike-theft problem. Now I use a combination lock (too easy to pick) with a hardened chain and a very thick cable with a key lock built in. My thinking is that a person could defeat either in 20 minutes but no one is going to spend 45 minutes trying to steal the kind of bike I'd leave locked up anywhere.

Basically, my bike looks like a pain to steal and that is 90 percent of the battle.

If I already owned a decent key lock I would just go for the chain and the key lock. I wouldn't spend another $20 to buy one though.

I also sometimes carry a very thin cable with a cheesy built-in combo lock---very small, very lightweight---when I am out on one of my better bikes. I would never leave one of my good bikes outside anywhere except in times of emergency---like in an urban area where I Must use a restroom. In that case, even though I know a thief could cut the cable in three minutes, it is preferable to having an unpleasant situation. I roll the dice there .... because unless you live in a high-crime area, any lock is probably enough most of the time.

It amuses me though---people will spend $3000 on a superlight superbike and then carry a 22-pound lock and chain. Why not buy six $50 beaters for use in high-theft areas and carry three pounds of lock which will discourage anyone who might even look at the bike? If you lose one .... laugh, call an Uber, and pump up the tires on the next one in the rack?

So .... if you like your bike, don't leave it in a dangerous area, and if you leave it locked, if it Looks like it is really secure, 90 percent of the time it is. if your bike is that worth stealing, don't leave it.

Four feet of hardened steel chain, slipped inside an old inner tube so it doesn't scratch the paint, and a key lock ... $30 for all the security you could ever get. And if you ride on bike trails or such .... the lightest cable lock you can find, just for emergencies, to keep borderline people honest.

Last edited by Maelochs; 06-08-19 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 06-08-19, 01:10 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by wiscobadger
Hi All! First time poster here. I'm 27 years old, 5'10" and about 170 lbs and am looking to buy my first road bike. Back in high school I biked a lot, mostly on trails, but as life got busier I got out of it. I recently moved to Madison, WI and am getting the itch to bike again, but this time a road bike seems to make the most sense. At this point I'm wanting to get back into it mostly because I want to spend more time outside as well as I need to get exercise as I have a desk job and getting into a gym routine has never worked for me. I've always owned Trek bikes, but am open to other brands. With a budget of $1,200 max, what would you recommend?

I see Trek has the Domane AL 2 and AL 3 for under my price range. I also called a bike shop in northern WI where I'd buy my bikes and they have a new 1.2 for $499 as it's a few model years old.
I see you already bought a bike but for new users thinking about getting an entry level bike I have some advice.
if you have 1200 budget get a bike for around 1000.
the rest of the money you can spend on saddle/handlebar/stem aka whats needed to fit the bike to you really good. Especially saddles and stem length is very very important for correct fit. btw there is no correct fit, its only they thing that works for you, thats the correct fit.

You will most likely also need good tires. I like the gp4k and now gp5k for road all round use. good grip and durability and puncture protection. well worth the money.

Regarding components. you will get "good enough" stuff from maybe 7-800 or so. tiagra/sora and similar. these works very well when adjusted. and the 8-9-10sp cassettes and chains are cheaper. especially 8sp. its 50% cheaper than 9sp and 9sp is much cheaper than 10sp.

Other than that I would simply go over everything, such as bearings (in shimnao hubs for example) and nuts and bolts and lube them all (you need to remove them).
If you do initial lubing/greasing of everything that wears and rusts. Then the stuff will last for at least 5 years or so with you doing anything at all. Maybe even 10 years for some stuff.
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Old 06-08-19, 01:14 PM
  #38  
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I personally would get a specialized/trek/cannondale/giant. last years or 2 year old models on closeout. at hopefully 50% or more off. thats the best deal.
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Old 06-08-19, 01:46 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Maelochs
Helmet ..... some folks would tell you not to bother ... but are tired of getting flamed by people with no data to back up their opinions. I suggest that you spend not very much, though. I read about the high-tech Mips and Wavecell lids .... they offer some protection up to about 13.8 mph. So as long as you never go faster than that .... hmmmm.

I have always used Bell because they fit the shape of my head. I have always bought whatever was on sale or closeout.

The smartest analysis of helmet value came from a poster here who said he wore a helmet not to save his life but to save his ride---any crash over a minimal speed would be fatal no matter what helmet he was wearing, but for some other crashes, a helmet might prevent a big-enough gash to require an ambulance ride---instead, he'd have a headache, maybe a concussion, but could ride home.

So .... I buy helmets based on looking decent (IMO) and being fairly cheap models from major brands---Bell never made a helmet which didn't meet code, and I trust their quality control. If I knew another brand always fit my head and was of the same stature, I'd use them.

I tend to use Cygolite Hotshot tail lights. $30-$40 online, but they last and they are bright. I will have to research whatever you listed ... one sec.

The Flare looks awesome. A bit of money, and I don't know how it handles weather, but it has all the right features.

Check this out about the Cygolite Hotshot 100 (https://www.thegeekycyclist.com/prod...e-hotshot-100/)

"Pros
"Very bright and visible light. Ensures other road users don’t have any excuse for not seeing you.
"Recharge Quickly. No more long waits before hitting the road.
"Cons
"Can be Blinding to Other Users. Due to the high brightness, it has to be set low so as not to obstruct the view of others, especially when in a group ride."


$34 on Amazon. But the Flare seems to be in the same class .... 65 lumens as opposed to 100 (or 50, for the Hotshot 50) and bright enough for day or night use ... long life, USB recharge .... either one looks great.

I am a big believer in tail lights because the more time a driver has to prepare for you the better the odds he or she actually will.

Lock? I have long maintained that you buy not bike security but personal security--peace of mind.

(Prepackaged, oft-repeated rant incoming

If your bike is nice enough, it can be stolen. People will steal a bike depending on cost benefit analysis---and if your bike is worth $500 or so to a fence, some guy will jump out of his van, whip out his angle grinder, and saw through whatever lock/chain you are using---Whatever. No chain or lock cannot be defeated. If you have a bike worth a lot of money it is never safe out of sight.

If you have a normal bike, people will steal it for drug money or joy rides. Drug-money thieves probably don't have a lot of gear, and probably plan to cut the chain and ride away. A serious hardened chain (a few dollars a foot at the local hardware store) and a decent padlock will beat most of them.

If you lock up your bike in an area with a lot of sketchy people and leave it for a long period of time .... well, ...... or if you lock it in an urban area and leave it for a long period of time ..... but for most uses, a hardened chain and a serious lock (not a serious "bike-specific" lock---those are outrageously expensive and no better than any other unless you go to the super-high-end and pay as much for the lock and chain as you do for the bike) will discourage thieves---they will go looking for easier prey.

The third class of thief is the joy-rider, who will steal anything easy to steal. Any lock which makes your bike not easy to steal will do.

I have used cable locks, even though a person can saw through a steel cable with a steak knife (in time) or cut through with regular wire cutters. When locking up at the library or grocery store, that is probably enough, unless you live in a college town with a bad bike-theft problem. Now I use a combination lock (too easy to pick) with a hardened chain and a very thick cable with a key lock built in. My thinking is that a person could defeat either in 20 minutes but no one is going to spend 45 minutes trying to steal the kind of bike I'd leave locked up anywhere.

Basically, my bike looks like a pain to steal and that is 90 percent of the battle.

If I already owned a decent key lock I would just go for the chain and the key lock. I wouldn't spend another $20 to buy one though.

I also sometimes carry a very thin cable with a cheesy built-in combo lock---very small, very lightweight---when I am out on one of my better bikes. I would never leave one of my good bikes outside anywhere except in times of emergency---like in an urban area where I Must use a restroom. In that case, even though I know a thief could cut the cable in three minutes, it is preferable to having an unpleasant situation. I roll the dice there .... because unless you live in a high-crime area, any lock is probably enough most of the time.

It amuses me though---people will spend $3000 on a superlight superbike and then carry a 22-pound lock and chain. Why not buy six $50 beaters for use in high-theft areas and carry three pounds of lock which will discourage anyone who might even look at the bike? If you lose one .... laugh, call an Uber, and pump up the tires on the next one in the rack?

So .... if you like your bike, don't leave it in a dangerous area, and if you leave it locked, if it Looks like it is really secure, 90 percent of the time it is. if your bike is that worth stealing, don't leave it.

Four feet of hardened steel chain, slipped inside an old inner tube so it doesn't scratch the paint, and a key lock ... $30 for all the security you could ever get. And if you ride on bike trails or such .... the lightest cable lock you can find, just for emergencies, to keep borderline people honest.

Very good points from you sir!

------------------------

Regarding lights get any bright enough cheap one. I have rear lights that are 400lm like the niteflux redzone8, and anothe one called orfos flare (1gen selfcontained waterproof filled with silicone rubber) and while those are very good. they are overkill.
I remember dinotte also makes good rear lights.

fro fronts i have only high dollar ones. gemini 3 led/gloworm 3 led/lupine 4 led. they are all over 2000 lumen. But I think if you have above 700lumen its enough for most slowish riding. If one intends to do full out daytime tempo riding in the dark you are looking at at the very least 4-5000 lumens with several lights.

I say 6-700 up front and 25-50 out back lumens is good enough for most. The lumina up front may be an alternative fro many.

-------------

I also like bell helmets. they at least used to have a very good adjustment system, so it was very easy and quick to adjust for headwear or no headwear depending on the weather. and it stays locked in.

----------------

Regarding locks. its all up to you. the best locks are the pragmasis chains with squire hidden shackle padlocks made out of hardened boron steel.
I run 11mm chain and the smallest hidden shackle padlock. but they have 13mm and 16/19.
https://securityforbikes.com/product...and+Lock+Deals
https://securityforbikes.com/security-chains.php

the 11mm with the smaller ss50cs lock weighs 2,5kg with 1m chain. this lock signals to thieves "not today baby" and they simply move on. I cannot cut it myself with a 1m boltcutter and i'm way way above pro thief with destroying metals since i do it all day long.
Will be cut in about 15 seconds in a vice with a very thin cutoff disc and angle grinder. but it could take forever when not clamped down flopping around, and a battery grinder.

I store my lock in an under the saddle topeak bag. it just fits. if one attempts this you need to put in a metal plate in the roof of the bag. and then fasten the whole crap to the saddle otherwise the weight of the lock will simply rip the bag off/apart in about 1km! mine did. this is a 30 minute mod if you are experienced working with drills/saws and metals. get alu plate.

Or just get an abus/kryptonite D lock. but to make stuff really boring for thieves you want a separate cable lock for the front wheel! then its twice as annoying to steal the bike.
and they move on!

Next level of protection is simply dumbing stuff down. you could rattle can the whole bike in gaudy colors, badly. that signals that this bike is already stolen, have no brand name and could be anything, and is therefore not worth stealing, since who would buy it?? I do this with all my ti bikes since they look like silver missiles from the factory simply screaming "come steal me".
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Old 06-08-19, 04:24 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Maelochs
You are a wise man ..... LOL .....

Gerat news. Best way to get back into biking for a lot of people is to get lucky with a used bike, and learn how you like to ride.

I assume you read the fine print when you joined---if you don't post pics within three days of purchase, BF members are allowed to confiscate your new bike ... you saw that, right? So .... up to you.
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