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Stronglight bottom bracket sanity check

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Stronglight bottom bracket sanity check

Old 08-06-19, 04:40 AM
  #26  
ironwood
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It's a forty year old crank, and if the previous owners took good care of it, they may have overhauled the BB forty times or so if rhey did an annual overhaul. Forty tightenings might have bottomed out the crank. I wonder how much longer my 49D will be usable.
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Old 08-06-19, 05:02 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ironwood View Post
It's a forty year old crank, and if the previous owners took good care of it, they may have overhauled the BB forty times or so if rhey did an annual overhaul. Forty tightenings might have bottomed out the crank. I wonder how much longer my 49D will be usable.
Another possibility is the odd Stronglight crank extractor diameter meant the bearings were changed way too late too often. Guess how I know about that problem and its consequences?
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Old 08-06-19, 05:55 AM
  #28  
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I’ve had good luck using small aluminum shims (2 little squares - on adjacent faces) between the spindle and crank on a Stronglight that was bottoming out.
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Old 08-06-19, 06:20 AM
  #29  
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@amillhench, the advice being given to you up above is well-meaning, but they're shooting darts to the wind without photos.

Can you install the cranks, take out the installer bolts, and take pictures of the taper inside after installation? If it's visibly bottomed out, we'll know - and not be guessing - whether the crank arms are bottomed out or not.

-Kurt
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Old 08-06-19, 07:50 AM
  #30  
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What Cuda and others said above. You're getting lots of good advice but without pics or measurements the chances of us helping you solve the problem is small.

To me it sounds like the two possibilities are - you have the spindle in backwards or the arms are bottomed out on the tapers.

Stronglight cranks are tricky. The alloy is very soft, and the arms require a crank extractor that is unique to the brand. Use of other extractors will probably strip the threads. You also need to be careful to not over torque the bolt. That's a whole separate discussion.

Let's see a nice tight close up of the spindle's penetration inside the arm (take the bolt out). and let's see a pic of the drive side arm as it is installed now.

then, take the arms off (carefully, with the correct tool) and measure the spindle - how far it sticks out on both sides. And let's see a pic of the backside of the arms, showing the square where the spindle goes in.

With this information, we may be able to help.

Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
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Old 08-06-19, 07:53 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by jcb3 View Post
Iíve had good luck using small aluminum shims (2 little squares - on adjacent faces) between the spindle and crank on a Stronglight that was bottoming out.
Very thin brass shim stock works as well.
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Old 08-06-19, 09:01 PM
  #32  
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Alright, folks. This is what I have for now.

I think it it is a cup issue as @Johno59 stated. With the bearings in, the NDS taper does not clear the cup, hence the bottoming out. The photo showing this is after I over tightened the bearings just to see if it would clear. Then I removed NDS bearings, reinstalled cup, and put on the NDS crank. I donít believe the taper is bottoming out, but yíall have much more experience than me. Pictures attached.

Iíll have to mess around with additional testing tomorrow as familial duties call! All the wisdom and input is greatly a

With NDS bearings removed.


With both bearings in. Inadequate taper clearance.


With NDS bearings removed, torqued, bolt removed.


Fixed side with both bearings in.
ppreciated.
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Old 08-07-19, 09:56 AM
  #33  
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good pics, helpful. thank you. Are you QUITE sure you have the spindle in the right way? the "longer" side should go to the drive side of course. Usually the stampings on the spindle should be oriented so that "if you were looking down" from the saddle, they would be right side up. Make sense ?

also in the one pic of the spindle in the arm, it looks to me like the spindle is "just about bottomed out" on the tapers. From the diagram above, on the 118 mm spindle - there is only 2mm difference between the drive and NDS side.

These cranks look like they have had a hard life. How does the running torque feel as you tighten the bolt ?

Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA

Last edited by mpetry912; 08-07-19 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 08-07-19, 10:24 AM
  #34  
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Wrong size axle

Originally Posted by amillhench View Post
Alright, folks. This is what I have for now.

I think it it is a cup issue as @Johno59 stated. With the bearings in, the NDS taper does not clear the cup, hence the bottoming out. The photo showing this is after I over tightened the bearings just to see if it would clear. Then I removed NDS bearings, reinstalled cup, and put on the NDS crank. I donít believe the taper is bottoming out, but yíall have much more experience than me. Pictures attached.

Iíll have to mess around with additional testing tomorrow as familial duties call! All the wisdom and input is greatly a

With NDS bearings removed.


With both bearings in. Inadequate taper clearance.


With NDS bearings removed, torqued, bolt removed.


Fixed side with both bearings in.
ppreciated.
Wow, that bearing race is stuck way way too far out. If the ball bearings are properly seated you have the wrong axle. That axle is meant for a BB shell much wider.
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Old 08-07-19, 11:28 AM
  #35  
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^^^^^^ I was thinking the same thing, but the OP says it's the original spindle, in post # 1.
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Old 08-07-19, 11:32 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Johno59 View Post
If the ball bearings are properly seated you have the wrong axle.
Like I said... OP doesn't know if this bb setup ever worked properly to begin.
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Old 08-07-19, 12:06 PM
  #37  
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This is a trifecta of every possible issue:
  • Spindle bearing races are too far apart.
  • Cups are too thick
  • Non-drive side crank is bottomed out
That spindle is made for the equivalent of thin cups. The cups you have (which, if my memory serves me right, are Stronglight) are thick cups made for a spindle with a narrower distance between the bearing races.

You've got to either replace the cups or the spindle. Then you've got to find yourself another left hand arm, though chances are the right side one has bottomed out too.

Even though everything appears to be original here, I'm entirely comfortable in saying that it isn't. Someone probably threw together whatever in their parts bin said "Stronglight" into something that, at first glance, looked like matching parts. Some bits may be original, but who knows which? Doesn't really matter at this point - all you need to get now are the correct bits.

-Kurt
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Old 08-07-19, 12:40 PM
  #38  
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MTB axle does not go into a road BB shell

Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
This is a trifecta of every possible issue:
  • Spindle bearing races are too far apart.
  • Cups are too thick
  • Non-drive side crank is bottomed out
That spindle is made for the equivalent of thin cups. The cups you have (which, if my memory serves me right, are Stronglight) are thick cups made for a spindle with a narrower distance between the bearing races.

You've got to either replace the cups or the spindle. Then you've got to find yourself another left hand arm, though chances are the right side one has bottomed out too.

Even though everything appears to be original here, I'm entirely comfortable in saying that it isn't. Someone probably threw together whatever in their parts bin said "Stronglight" into something that, at first glance, looked like matching parts. Some bits may be original, but who knows which? Doesn't really matter at this point - all you need to get now are the correct bits.

-Kurt
As a poss get any old road axle and see if your problems disappear
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Old 08-07-19, 01:12 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
This is a trifecta of every possible issue:
  • Spindle bearing races are too far apart.
  • Cups are too thick
  • Non-drive side crank is bottomed out
That spindle is made for the equivalent of thin cups. The cups you have (which, if my memory serves me right, are Stronglight) are thick cups made for a spindle with a narrower distance between the bearing races.

You've got to either replace the cups or the spindle. Then you've got to find yourself another left hand arm, though chances are the right side one has bottomed out too.

Even though everything appears to be original here, I'm entirely comfortable in saying that it isn't. Someone probably threw together whatever in their parts bin said "Stronglight" into something that, at first glance, looked like matching parts. Some bits may be original, but who knows which? Doesn't really matter at this point - all you need to get now are the correct bits.

-Kurt
Yeah, all that. ^^^^^

Also, the BB may have been faced down excessively at some point. I've seen this issue before. The BB shell should be measured, or else you're just flying blind.

Those crankarms might be salvageable by using a JIS BB, maybe. It will be close. Stronglight is just a hair smaller than JIS IME. Might be enough to mount without bottoming out, just. No grease and loctite on the bolts for sure.
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Old 08-07-19, 01:34 PM
  #40  
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I forgot to mention the BB shell is measuring a hair under 67mm.
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