Addiction LXXIX
#651
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Ha I have a whole selection of Jets I could use, including two backup 6+ fronts. Just hoping to not need to swap tires, but I suppose I should. Then I can just cart the wheel down to the shop for a true anyway.
#652
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Dual exhausts? Overhead cam?
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#653
Klaatu..Verata..Necktie?
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SF Bay Area
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Bikes: Litespeed Ultimate, Ultegra; Canyon Endurace, 105; Battaglin MAX, Chorus; Bianchi 928 Veloce; Ritchey Road Logic, Dura Ace; Cannondale R500 RX100; Schwinn Circuit, Sante; Lotus Supreme, Dura Ace
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Update you don't need on a story you don't care about: I finally took the Ritchey out for a ride with the new stem and bars. First thing I noticed is it felt "taller", which is odd because I measured and adjusted the height of the bars to exactly match what it had been. Second thing I noticed was that, instead of the bar blocking my view of the front hub while in the drops, the hub is clearly visible behind the bar - which I guess makes sense, since the stem is 1 cm longer, but the bar has 7mm less reach. This is a little disconcerting because I've always used 'bar blocks view of hub' as an indicator of proper position.
After 8 miles. I rotated the bars down. That was a bit too much, so 4 miles later I turned them back up about halfway. The rest of the ride, about 8 miles, was into the wind, so I spent most of that distance in the drops or on the top of the hoods, which felt pretty good. No lower back issues, reach to brakes felt right, hands comfy on the drops.
After 8 miles. I rotated the bars down. That was a bit too much, so 4 miles later I turned them back up about halfway. The rest of the ride, about 8 miles, was into the wind, so I spent most of that distance in the drops or on the top of the hoods, which felt pretty good. No lower back issues, reach to brakes felt right, hands comfy on the drops.
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"Don't take life so serious-it ain't nohow permanent."
"Everybody's gotta be somewhere." - Eccles
"Don't take life so serious-it ain't nohow permanent."
"Everybody's gotta be somewhere." - Eccles
#654
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#655
VFL For Life
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#656
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Those of us who keep up with the latest BF news knew:
https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sug...e-per-day.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sug...e-per-day.html
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#657
serious cyclist
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Tire swapped onto my P2 front Jet6+, which is now being held up by AG's P3's front Jet6+, which is currently being held up by the old wheel from her B16 while it's on the trainer so that a nice front wheel doesn't get sweated on on the trainer. In a pinch I also had two front Jet5 C2s and a front Belgium+. And a spare front Altamont.
Really ought to sell some of that...
Really ought to sell some of that...
#658
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Those of us who keep up with the latest BF news knew:
https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sug...e-per-day.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sug...e-per-day.html
#659
cowboy, steel horse, etc
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#660
serious cyclist
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Update you don't need on a story you don't care about: I finally took the Ritchey out for a ride with the new stem and bars. First thing I noticed is it felt "taller", which is odd because I measured and adjusted the height of the bars to exactly match what it had been. Second thing I noticed was that, instead of the bar blocking my view of the front hub while in the drops, the hub is clearly visible behind the bar - which I guess makes sense, since the stem is 1 cm longer, but the bar has 7mm less reach. This is a little disconcerting because I've always used 'bar blocks view of hub' as an indicator of proper position.
After 8 miles. I rotated the bars down. That was a bit too much, so 4 miles later I turned them back up about halfway. The rest of the ride, about 8 miles, was into the wind, so I spent most of that distance in the drops or on the top of the hoods, which felt pretty good. No lower back issues, reach to brakes felt right, hands comfy on the drops.
After 8 miles. I rotated the bars down. That was a bit too much, so 4 miles later I turned them back up about halfway. The rest of the ride, about 8 miles, was into the wind, so I spent most of that distance in the drops or on the top of the hoods, which felt pretty good. No lower back issues, reach to brakes felt right, hands comfy on the drops.
#661
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Car update, recall my 18 year old bashed into a big log and bent the front passenger wheel on the 2007 Odyssey Minivan. We actually do have collision coverage on the car, which I think is worth about $4500....estimate from body shop to repair is $3500 and insurance company "thinks" the actual cash value of the car is $3200 so they just want to total it out and pay us the 3200 minus our deductible of $500.
I am thinking we could get the body shop to do just "necessary" repairs to get the car working and screw the superficial/cosmetic damage for something a bit LESS than 3K, and the last thing I want to do is go car shopping during a pandemic.
I have to be an intermediary between body shop and insurance company and hope we can agree to get the car fixed somehow.
Suggestions?
I am thinking we could get the body shop to do just "necessary" repairs to get the car working and screw the superficial/cosmetic damage for something a bit LESS than 3K, and the last thing I want to do is go car shopping during a pandemic.
I have to be an intermediary between body shop and insurance company and hope we can agree to get the car fixed somehow.
Suggestions?
My old Blazer broke the timing chain and I had it towed to the shop and my boss was shocked that I was going to fix it. (It was no big deal, really), but he just thought it was such a piece of crap nobody would want to fix it. I think I drove it for 4 or 5 years after that.
#662
Should Be More Popular
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I guess the question is how much will it cost to get it road worthy and after it's repaired will it be serviceable long enough to justify the expense. It's up to you, really. Some people might tell you the car isn't worth anything but if it does what you want it to and the looks/age doesn't bother you then it's worht it to you.
My old Blazer broke teh timing chain and I had it towed to the shop and my boss was shocked that I was going to fix it. (It was no big deal, really), but he just thought it was such a piece of crap nobody would want to fix it. I think I drove it for 4 or 5 years after that.
My old Blazer broke teh timing chain and I had it towed to the shop and my boss was shocked that I was going to fix it. (It was no big deal, really), but he just thought it was such a piece of crap nobody would want to fix it. I think I drove it for 4 or 5 years after that.
#663
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I am waiting to hear back from the insurance company, but it is sounding like more of a pain to fix the car than it's worth so we may be getting a new Honda Fit for mrs datlas soon. One of my patients is the sales manager at the local Honda so I am hoping he can help us a bit, although I understand the margins on the economy cars is pretty tight anyway.
#664
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I am waiting to hear back from the insurance company, but it is sounding like more of a pain to fix the car than it's worth so we may be getting a new Honda Fit for mrs datlas soon. One of my patients is the sales manager at the local Honda so I am hoping he can help us a bit, although I understand the margins on the economy cars is pretty tight anyway.
#665
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I am waiting to hear back from the insurance company, but it is sounding like more of a pain to fix the car than it's worth so we may be getting a new Honda Fit for mrs datlas soon. One of my patients is the sales manager at the local Honda so I am hoping he can help us a bit, although I understand the margins on the economy cars is pretty tight anyway.
#666
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What kind of repair was it? And did it hold up?
I've got a MTB frame with a cracked weld, you can see grease pushing through in the below picture. I'm thinking about using a 30.9-27.2 seatpost shim as an internal reinforcing sleeve and JB Weld-ing it in place:
I talked to the manufacturer of the frame and they told me that it would be possible to weld, but I'd need to get it heat treated and honed afterwards, and the frame really isn't worth the expense. But it's worth it to spend $15 on a shim and a tube of JB, if it would hold up a decently long time.
I've got a MTB frame with a cracked weld, you can see grease pushing through in the below picture. I'm thinking about using a 30.9-27.2 seatpost shim as an internal reinforcing sleeve and JB Weld-ing it in place:
I talked to the manufacturer of the frame and they told me that it would be possible to weld, but I'd need to get it heat treated and honed afterwards, and the frame really isn't worth the expense. But it's worth it to spend $15 on a shim and a tube of JB, if it would hold up a decently long time.
#667
cowboy, steel horse, etc
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New Jam Day!!!! Had it on some buttered 7-sprouted-grain raisin bread. YUM!
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#668
Should Be More Popular
Join Date: Dec 2007
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What kind of repair was it? And did it hold up?
I've got a MTB frame with a cracked weld, you can see grease pushing through in the below picture. I'm thinking about using a 30.9-27.2 seatpost shim as an internal reinforcing sleeve and JB Weld-ing it in place:
I talked to the manufacturer of the frame and they told me that it would be possible to weld, but I'd need to get it heat treated and honed afterwards, and the frame really isn't worth the expense. But it's worth it to spend $15 on a shim and a tube of JB, if it would hold up a decently long time.
I've got a MTB frame with a cracked weld, you can see grease pushing through in the below picture. I'm thinking about using a 30.9-27.2 seatpost shim as an internal reinforcing sleeve and JB Weld-ing it in place:
I talked to the manufacturer of the frame and they told me that it would be possible to weld, but I'd need to get it heat treated and honed afterwards, and the frame really isn't worth the expense. But it's worth it to spend $15 on a shim and a tube of JB, if it would hold up a decently long time.
Current dealer website shows base Fit MSRP 17.9K and on "sale" for 17.6K. I think we have some "rewards" valuing several hundred dollars towards next purchase (from loyalty program for the minivan repairs), not sure how much of a better deal I can get but will see. I think the Fit makes more sense than the Civic because of versatile seats for cargo etc. even though it's a smaller car. A new base Civic is about 21K.
I honestly think the new car will go from mrs datlas to me if/when the Saturn dies anyway and I don't care much about cars, obv.
#669
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Man. I drank 6 bottles of water/sports drink on the bike yesterday (it wasn't hot, the sun wasn't beating down and I was at an endurance pace) and drank another 5 or so glasses of water in the evening... and I still weighed in more than 3 lbs lighter than yesterday.
#670
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Then there is the weight of muscle and liver glycogen and the water bound in its crystalline structure. That can take a day to replenish too.
Last edited by MoAlpha; 08-06-20 at 10:22 AM.
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#671
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#672
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I didn't even dare to check the scale this morning, but I had four bottles in savage heat and drank all afternoon and still didn't have to pee until bedtime. And woke up starving for extra dinner.
#673
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Odyssey has front passenger wheel bent. Apparently the frame and suspension are involved. The body actually looks ok.
Current dealer website shows base Fit MSRP 17.9K and on "sale" for 17.6K. I think we have some "rewards" valuing several hundred dollars towards next purchase (from loyalty program for the minivan repairs), not sure how much of a better deal I can get but will see. I think the Fit makes more sense than the Civic because of versatile seats for cargo etc. even though it's a smaller car. A new base Civic is about 21K.
I honestly think the new car will go from mrs datlas to me if/when the Saturn dies anyway and I don't care much about cars, obv.
Current dealer website shows base Fit MSRP 17.9K and on "sale" for 17.6K. I think we have some "rewards" valuing several hundred dollars towards next purchase (from loyalty program for the minivan repairs), not sure how much of a better deal I can get but will see. I think the Fit makes more sense than the Civic because of versatile seats for cargo etc. even though it's a smaller car. A new base Civic is about 21K.
I honestly think the new car will go from mrs datlas to me if/when the Saturn dies anyway and I don't care much about cars, obv.
#674
Should Be More Popular
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
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#675
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What kind of repair was it? And did it hold up?
I've got a MTB frame with a cracked weld, you can see grease pushing through in the below picture. I'm thinking about using a 30.9-27.2 seatpost shim as an internal reinforcing sleeve and JB Weld-ing it in place:
I talked to the manufacturer of the frame and they told me that it would be possible to weld, but I'd need to get it heat treated and honed afterwards, and the frame really isn't worth the expense. But it's worth it to spend $15 on a shim and a tube of JB, if it would hold up a decently long time.
I've got a MTB frame with a cracked weld, you can see grease pushing through in the below picture. I'm thinking about using a 30.9-27.2 seatpost shim as an internal reinforcing sleeve and JB Weld-ing it in place:
I talked to the manufacturer of the frame and they told me that it would be possible to weld, but I'd need to get it heat treated and honed afterwards, and the frame really isn't worth the expense. But it's worth it to spend $15 on a shim and a tube of JB, if it would hold up a decently long time.