Fulcrum Racing Sport --- Freehub removal
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Fulcrum Racing Sport --- Freehub removal
Anyone know how to remove the freehub body on the Fulcrum Racing Sport. It is unlike their better wheels Racing 7s on up. It appears the fasterner has to be approached through the hub from the non-drive side. When I look in there seems to be splines. Is it possible that this hub is requiring a torx key rather than the usual 10mm hex to remove it?
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I have gone back and looked at exploded parts diagrams for all the other Fulcrum and Campagnolo wheels. This Fulcrum Racing Sport is the only 1 that appears to have its freehub secured going through the non-drive side and the only 1 without external pawls, hence my need to find info on how it is removed.
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Went out and got a 10mm hex as I thought that would be a standard fit but it spins in place, so I now know I need at least an 11mm. This photo shows the fastener that I am trying to reach through the non-drive side through the axle.
My confusion about the "star" orientation has been resolved as there are simply more than 1 way to fit the 6-sided hex key into the fastener. Given that I have to unscrew from the non-drive side, does anyone know which direction to loosen the fastener? If I were coming at it from the drive side, it would be standard right-hand thread.
My confusion about the "star" orientation has been resolved as there are simply more than 1 way to fit the 6-sided hex key into the fastener. Given that I have to unscrew from the non-drive side, does anyone know which direction to loosen the fastener? If I were coming at it from the drive side, it would be standard right-hand thread.
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This may help someone else if they have Fulcrum Racing Sports. Turns out that a 12mm hex is required, but the kicker is that the non-drive side cartridge bearing has to be removed first. Not exactly user-serviceable as I cannot think of another freehub body that cannot be removed without having to remove a bearing first. Anyway, attached are the service instructions.
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Interesting.
BTW, that is an "M" drive
or spline drive or double hex drive List of screw drives - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Looks like a double hex from the picture.
BTW, that is an "M" drive
or spline drive or double hex drive List of screw drives - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Looks like a double hex from the picture.
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This may help someone else if they have Fulcrum Racing Sports. Turns out that a 12mm hex is required, but the kicker is that the non-drive side cartridge bearing has to be removed first. Not exactly user-serviceable as I cannot think of another freehub body that cannot be removed without having to remove a bearing first. Anyway, attached are the service instructions.
How did you set the bearing after pulling it?
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Follow-up to previous post. The non-dive side gets disassembled including the removal of the non-drive bearing . I got a 12mm hex key wrench (that's a lot of hex!) and used a modified shade tree vise (space between concrete pavers ) to hold the key, long end up. The wheel is lowered onto the key, freehub side up, and turned counter-clockwise to remove. It's on tight.
At this stage I was holding the wheel without the freehub, the freehub, and the locking sleeve/bolt which came out with the hex key. I was hoping to further disassemble the freehub but couldn't locate any service instructions among Fulcrum's extensive collection of service and parts documents. I cleaned the grease out of the non-bearing side and sprayed a liberal amount of light lubricant (cable lube) into the space where the pawls can be heard clicking. I did the same on the bearing side, taking care to keep the light lube away from the bearing. I "worked" the freehub to encourage the penetration of the lube then repacked the lube I'd removed on the non-bearing side.
The assembly is just a reverse of the steps with the non-drive side bearing being reset, your method is probably better than mine. ;-)
On my test ride, I did not get the noise always and the creak is audible only when the freehub is spun to a particular arrangement. I suspect that one of two outcomes is likely, a gradual reduction in noise as the lazy pawl loosen's up. Or a complete failure of the hub due to broken internal parts, an alternate explanation for the current noise.
At this stage I was holding the wheel without the freehub, the freehub, and the locking sleeve/bolt which came out with the hex key. I was hoping to further disassemble the freehub but couldn't locate any service instructions among Fulcrum's extensive collection of service and parts documents. I cleaned the grease out of the non-bearing side and sprayed a liberal amount of light lubricant (cable lube) into the space where the pawls can be heard clicking. I did the same on the bearing side, taking care to keep the light lube away from the bearing. I "worked" the freehub to encourage the penetration of the lube then repacked the lube I'd removed on the non-bearing side.
The assembly is just a reverse of the steps with the non-drive side bearing being reset, your method is probably better than mine. ;-)
On my test ride, I did not get the noise always and the creak is audible only when the freehub is spun to a particular arrangement. I suspect that one of two outcomes is likely, a gradual reduction in noise as the lazy pawl loosen's up. Or a complete failure of the hub due to broken internal parts, an alternate explanation for the current noise.
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I am hoping for my Racing Sport's problem to be handled by warranty, either the 1 year Bianchi or 2 year Fulcrum. It seems that the Freehub body cannot be serviced and the part RT-013 are almost impossible to obtain.
#10
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Hmmm, no Novatecs I know of use that type of freehub body.
You would have been better off chancing a Formula made freehub instead.
You would have been better off chancing a Formula made freehub instead.
#11
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To be honest though, that shop does sell freehubs that look very similar and they provide relatively precise measurements.
They sell the required 11 and 12mm Allen keys on the same page which may be helpful.
But AliExpress has a terrible search algorithm so you have to stumble onto them.
They sell the required 11 and 12mm Allen keys on the same page which may be helpful.
But AliExpress has a terrible search algorithm so you have to stumble onto them.