Replacement for Roadmaster rear derailleur
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Replacement for Roadmaster rear derailleur
So, I have a Roadmaster Granite Peak (cheap bike, I know, but it works well for me). The rear derailleur (TD One "brand") just won't stay adjusted. I want to replace it with a Shimano Tourney 6 speed derailleur.
Here's my question. Will a Shimano Tourney work with the existing twist shifter and the 6 speed free wheel on this bike??? Or will I have to replace those two?
Thanks
Here's my question. Will a Shimano Tourney work with the existing twist shifter and the 6 speed free wheel on this bike??? Or will I have to replace those two?
Thanks
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IME the vast majority of the off brand der systems mimic Shimano's cable pull specs. But don't be surprised if the system still seems a bit off as the rest still is pretty cheaply done. Andy
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Agree. It is possible that shift adjustment problems you are having have more to do with your shifter than with the rear derailleur
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Having worked on many low cost non Shimano gear systems I have found that the chain and cog tooth profiling are rather important to shifting work like what most assume it should. So while the cable pull ratios and the rear der cog to cog movement might be the same as Shimano, that the chain and cog shift teeth are not will make a difference. Of course this level of functionality or performance is beyond most of our customers who have bought these low cost/big box bikes. Once again an experienced mechanic's "standards" often exceeds their customers expectations. (And when the customer's expectations are greater is when things "get touchy" ) Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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On a Roadmaster, it's kind of hard to make things worse.
Likes For Bill Kapaun:
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Hi Andrew.
Thanks for your advice. So my plan was to replace the rear derailleur, and if that didn't work, try the shifter, and then the freewheel if needed. I have a workshop & bike-specific tools to work on my bike.
I'm not is a position to go out and spend even $300. on a new bike -- so I'm making this bike work the best it can.
Thanks for your advice. So my plan was to replace the rear derailleur, and if that didn't work, try the shifter, and then the freewheel if needed. I have a workshop & bike-specific tools to work on my bike.
I'm not is a position to go out and spend even $300. on a new bike -- so I'm making this bike work the best it can.
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#8
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Granite Peaks have shimano sis rear derailures. The lowest of low sis derailures.
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Thanks so much to Andrew and alcjphil for your sincere and helpful replies. It's sad, though, to see a couple of other posters who simply made snarky, snotty, acerbic remarks about the low-cost bicycle I ride. Bicycling is about the experience NOT the high-dollar equipment and gadgets that some people feel the need to run out and buy.
After 15 years or so away from cycling, I received my "cheap" bike as a father's day present from my adult daughter. It was a pleasant and thoughtful surprise. I've ridden it for about a year and a half now, and I have thoroughly enjoyed it. AND I'm in much better shape. When she said "Hey pop, let's go get you a bike" on father's day there was no way I was going to hit my kid up for several hundred bucks for an expensive set of wheels.
I was an avid cyclist for 30 years and always worked on my bikes myself. I've continued to do so with my current bike. That's precisely why I posted the question in this forum.
After 15 years or so away from cycling, I received my "cheap" bike as a father's day present from my adult daughter. It was a pleasant and thoughtful surprise. I've ridden it for about a year and a half now, and I have thoroughly enjoyed it. AND I'm in much better shape. When she said "Hey pop, let's go get you a bike" on father's day there was no way I was going to hit my kid up for several hundred bucks for an expensive set of wheels.
I was an avid cyclist for 30 years and always worked on my bikes myself. I've continued to do so with my current bike. That's precisely why I posted the question in this forum.
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So, I have a Roadmaster Granite Peak (cheap bike, I know, but it works well for me). The rear derailleur (TD One "brand") just won't stay adjusted. I want to replace it with a Shimano Tourney 6 speed derailleur.
Here's my question. Will a Shimano Tourney work with the existing twist shifter and the 6 speed free wheel on this bike??? Or will I have to replace those two?
Thanks
Here's my question. Will a Shimano Tourney work with the existing twist shifter and the 6 speed free wheel on this bike??? Or will I have to replace those two?
Thanks
Don't worry that the Acera says that it is for 8 speeds. Up to 9 speed derailers, there is no issue with using it for less gears on the freewheel. The cable pull is the same.
You won't need to replace anything else except the hanger. The TD One has an integral claw type hanger which is riveted on to the derailer. You'll need a claw type hanger that is threaded like this one. Note how the TD One is mounted and emulate that for the new claw hanger. Most people try to thread it into the fender mount which won't work. Harris Cyclery has a picture of how it should be mounted.
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Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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So anyone reading this thread from beginning to end -- I DID install the Shimano Tourney rear derailleur on my Granite Peak -- works great with the original twist shifter. It is amazing how much better even this low-end Shimano derailleur works than the original equipment TD One derailleur. I realized that the components on my Roadmaster bike would not be as good as brand name stuff. Interesting to see this put to the test. Still, though, the original cost of the bike, two hybrid-type replacement tires, a better seat, helmet, bike computer, derailleur replacement and saddle bag add up to less than $ 250.
This serves ME very well because I work on my bikes myself. My bike never has and never will see the inside of a professional repair shop.
Anyone who's not so inclined may be better served spending, $250 or $350 on a bike at a local bike shop.
This serves ME very well because I work on my bikes myself. My bike never has and never will see the inside of a professional repair shop.
Anyone who's not so inclined may be better served spending, $250 or $350 on a bike at a local bike shop.
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So anyone reading this thread from beginning to end -- I DID install the Shimano Tourney rear derailleur on my Granite Peak -- works great with the original twist shifter. It is amazing how much better even this low-end Shimano derailleur works than the original equipment TD One derailleur. I realized that the components on my Roadmaster bike would not be as good as brand name stuff. Interesting to see this put to the test. Still, though, the original cost of the bike, two hybrid-type replacement tires, a better seat, helmet, bike computer, derailleur replacement and saddle bag add up to less than $ 250.
This serves ME very well because I work on my bikes myself. My bike never has and never will see the inside of a professional repair shop.
Anyone who's not so inclined may be better served spending, $250 or $350 on a bike at a local bike shop.
This serves ME very well because I work on my bikes myself. My bike never has and never will see the inside of a professional repair shop.
Anyone who's not so inclined may be better served spending, $250 or $350 on a bike at a local bike shop.
I want to put this as delicately as I can. There are lots of issues with bikes like the Granite Peak that I see all the time that you should be aware of and consider when those issues raise their ugly head. First and foremost is that the bearings are very low grade. I mean extremely low grade. Clods of dirt might make better, more durable bearings. A very common problem I see is bearings, and the retainers they are in, that have been ground to dust. If the bottom bracket comes loose, be sure you adjust it immediately! Better yet, take the bottom bracket apart and inspect the bearings. If the bearings are bad, you will have to replace the bottom bracket.
As to the bottom bracket, be aware that, again, the metal is very weak and the threads can either gall or the bottom bracket can become cross threaded during extraction. I've pulled a number of these almost in two during extraction. That doesn't make them any easier to work on either. I've had to use very long cheater bars to get them out and the threads in the frame are not improved by this process. I've also had bottom bracket spindles that have twisted into almost pretzel shapes. They have fractured but not orthogonal to the line of torque as you'd expect but longitudinally.
The crank arms on these bikes are steel but they are, again, about as strong as dirt clods. I've seen tons of them that have the taper completely rounded out. I never see aluminum cranks with the kind of damage I've seen on the Big Box Store square taper cranks and aluminum is supposed to be much softer.
The wheel bearings suffer from the same problem as the crank bearings in that they can be ground to dust easily. The wheels are also improperly built without the bracing that comes from interlacing the third spoke on a three cross spoke pattern. This makes the wheel flexy and makes the spokes prone to breakage.
I'm not trying to discourage you from riding this bike. By all means, ride it and enjoy it. But when things start to fail...and they will...seriously consider whether you want to invest more money into the bike or cut your losses and find something of better quality. Just about anything over what you currently have in the bike is probably too much more to spend. As mechanics say, "the most expensive tool is the one you have to buy twice."
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Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#14
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Buick?
On a Roadmaster, it's kind of hard to make things worse.
... someone else made the components they bought & bolted on..
It's how the bike biz works..
#15
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So anyone reading this thread from beginning to end -- I DID install the Shimano Tourney rear derailleur on my Granite Peak -- works great with the original twist shifter. It is amazing how much better even this low-end Shimano derailleur works than the original equipment TD One derailleur. I realized that the components on my Roadmaster bike would not be as good as brand name stuff. Interesting to see this put to the test. Still, though, the original cost of the bike, two hybrid-type replacement tires, a better seat, helmet, bike computer, derailleur replacement and saddle bag add up to less than $ 250.
This serves ME very well because I work on my bikes myself. My bike never has and never will see the inside of a professional repair shop.
Anyone who's not so inclined may be better served spending, $250 or $350 on a bike at a local bike shop.
This serves ME very well because I work on my bikes myself. My bike never has and never will see the inside of a professional repair shop.
Anyone who's not so inclined may be better served spending, $250 or $350 on a bike at a local bike shop.
I picked up a near mint 86 Rockhopper with wheel& cassette upgrades for $50 0n CL about 12 years ago. It's still serving faithfully.
Better deals can be had.
#16
Newbie
My conservative road master
my road master !!!
bought in 2019 , $68.00 delivered to my house
i up graded tires an tubes to kendatire
stem extension
areo bars (amazon) $28.00
an repacked crank bearings
rides An shifts perfectly!!!
i can go anywhere a expensive imported bike can , just takes longer for a 69 yo !!!
bought in 2019 , $68.00 delivered to my house
i up graded tires an tubes to kendatire
stem extension
areo bars (amazon) $28.00
an repacked crank bearings
rides An shifts perfectly!!!
i can go anywhere a expensive imported bike can , just takes longer for a 69 yo !!!
#17
Newbie
My conservative road master
my road master !!!
bought in 2019 , $68.00 delivered to my house
i up graded tires an tubes to kendatire
stem extension
areo bars (amazon) $28.00
an repacked crank bearings
rides An shifts perfectly!!!
i can go anywhere a expensive imported bike can , just takes longer for a 69 yo !!!
bought in 2019 , $68.00 delivered to my house
i up graded tires an tubes to kendatire
stem extension
areo bars (amazon) $28.00
an repacked crank bearings
rides An shifts perfectly!!!
i can go anywhere a expensive imported bike can , just takes longer for a 69 yo !!!
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my road master !!!
bought in 2019 , $68.00 delivered to my house
i up graded tires an tubes to kendatire
stem extension
areo bars (amazon) $28.00
an repacked crank bearings
rides An shifts perfectly!!!
i can go anywhere a expensive imported bike can , just takes longer for a 69 yo !!!
bought in 2019 , $68.00 delivered to my house
i up graded tires an tubes to kendatire
stem extension
areo bars (amazon) $28.00
an repacked crank bearings
rides An shifts perfectly!!!
i can go anywhere a expensive imported bike can , just takes longer for a 69 yo !!!