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Theft deterrence - ball bearing in Allen head bolt

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Theft deterrence - ball bearing in Allen head bolt

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Old 09-10-23, 06:06 PM
  #26  
sweeks
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Originally Posted by wschruba
Acetone works fine. Acetone, not [necessarily] nail polish remover.

I used acetone to dissolve acrylic pellets for hardening felt. Given time, it will work.
This^^. I use cyanoacrylate ("Crazy Glue") for removing broken root canal files from teeth. The instruments used are too expensive to throw away. Soaking them in acetone ("dimethyl ketone") after use cleans them up nicely, regardless of how long they've been sitting. (They still need to be sterilized. )
Use acetone with adequate ventilation!
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Old 09-11-23, 06:03 AM
  #27  
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One thing to keep in mind when "foolproofing" your bike is that you don't want to get carried away and screw yourself. Whatever you do has to be easily circumvented or you'll be facing a very difficult repair one day.


https://www.bicyclebolts.com/collect...security-bolts
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Old 09-11-23, 06:50 AM
  #28  
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+1 for TCS, we use the Penta Security Skewers with great success and easy flat repair if you need, at $8 they are a real bargain. Also have a couple with Ti skewers that work just as well.
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Old 09-11-23, 07:34 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by GravelMN
No, not epoxy.

Clean the bearing and the allen head with some acetone and allow to dry. Put a single drop of Super Glue gel or other brand of cyanoacrylate adhesive in the hole and push the bearing into place and hold for 15-30 seconds being careful not to glue your finger to the bolt. It will be an absolute PITA to try to get the bearing out of the hole even with a knife tip or similar tool. When it comes time to remove the bearing, put a few drops of acetone into the hole around the bearing and wait a minute, then lift the ball out with a magnet or pry it out with a knife tip or other pointed implement.
This is exactly the right approach.
Steel (not stainless - check to ensure that its magnetic, which is why you don't want aluminum in the hole). Small amount of CA glue. Hold it down using a piece of parchment or wax paper (to avoid a bike-shaped wart attached to your finger). Then exactly as GravelMN says. A drop of acetone (which can be obtaines as fingernail polish remover - check ingredients). Let the acetone sit for a few minutes, then use a strong magnet to lift the ball out. Carefull, as acetone will likely dissove bike finishes.

Epoxy is what is known as a thermoset polymer. When it cures, it forms a network of bonds - like 3D net. This makes it impossilble to truly dissolve. And certainly anything that can soften epoxy, you don't want near your bike.
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Old 09-11-23, 02:05 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz
Epoxy is what is known as a thermoset polymer. When it cures, it forms a network of bonds - like 3D net. This makes it impossilble to truly dissolve. And certainly anything that can soften epoxy, you don't want near your bike.
Ordinary epoxy will soften at less than 100°C you can dig it out with a small chisel tip or pointed soldering iron.
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Old 09-11-23, 02:41 PM
  #31  
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The ball in the hex trick works fine with recessed stem bolts, not so well if the bolt protrudes where you can grab the OD.

However, DO NOT USE ANY ADHESIVE. Even if melted or softened, there will still be some tackiness which will make the ball harder to remove.

Instead, melt wax into the hex to keep the ball home. To remove, invert the bike and melt the wax with a cigarette lighter or heat gun, and the ball will fall out.
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Old 09-12-23, 05:51 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by grumpus
Ordinary epoxy will soften at less than 100° C you can dig it out with a small chisel tip or pointed soldering iron.
I think that you’re correct, but if you have a cf bike, epoxy is what’s holding your frame together. 100° C Is pretty hot, so if I was going the thermal route I’d use wax as suggested above. For my time and effort, CA glue is easier to apply and with a drop of acetone, easier to remove. But you may live in a tough neighborhood - I think epoxy might be more secure.

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Old 09-12-23, 07:19 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by jyl
If you were going to place a ball bearing in an Allen head bolt for theft deterrence, would you secure it with superglue, solder, or do something entirely different? This would be in a quill stem expander bolt, for example. Assume you might want to remove it yearly or less often, for maintenance.
From the Land of the Dull, how does a ball bearing in a hex head hole prevent bike theft? Are these people who do not lock with a cable or chain through both wheels, the frame, and a fixed object?

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Old 09-12-23, 08:14 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Road Fan
From the Land of the Dull, how does a ball bearing in a hex head hole prevent bike theft?
So the bike's locked up to a solid rack with a Hiplock D1000 and a Skunk Lock through the frame and both wheels. Good job! But with a little set of hex keys one can make off with the cranks/pedals, derailleurs, brakes, bars, brifters, seatpost/saddle...a significant value of fencible components.

The idea of the emplaced ball bearing is to block the hex key from gaining purchase.
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Old 09-12-23, 05:17 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
The ball in the hex trick works fine with recessed stem bolts, not so well if the bolt protrudes where you can grab the OD.

My commuter bike uses a mix of penta pin and security torx fasteners. Any fastener that sticks out has a tapered or button head.

Theft proof? Ha! Theft resistant.
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Old 09-12-23, 05:27 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Torchy McFlux
I've used silicone caulking with good success. An old dental pick to remove it works well.
yes a silicone adhesive like e6000 wont stick permanently and you can peel it off.
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Old 09-12-23, 06:46 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by tcs
....
Any fastener that sticks out has a tapered or button head.

Theft proof? Ha! Theft resistant.
Any is a big word. Plenty of conventional cap screws are not recessed.

Since this thread is about using a ball to make conventional cap screws theft resistant, your reference to one's designed for resistance isn't relevant.
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