Removing Stripped Simplex Derailleur
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Removing Stripped Simplex Derailleur
So I picked up a vintage Mercier with a Simplex group on it. Was considering parting it out. However, the rear derailleur, which bolts from the inside of the dropout, is stripped. It was like that when I got it....and that's my story and I'm stickin' to it. I believe this was/is a 6mm hex fitting. So, do i have any other choices other than drilling it and using an easy out tool for removal? Can I find a replacement bolt for this? Thank you.
#2
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,985
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6193 Post(s)
Liked 4,808 Times
in
3,316 Posts
I'd drill it using a drill that is the size or tad more than the hex someone other than you must have used when it stripped. <grin>
You might find a torx bit that it a little bigger and tap it into the head and try that, but you'd risk marring up the DR with whatever you backed it up with on the other side to pound on.
Do you think the red on the bolt ends is thread locker that someone put on it? Heat might be needed and that's an issue for discoloration of the finish if a lot is required.
You might find a torx bit that it a little bigger and tap it into the head and try that, but you'd risk marring up the DR with whatever you backed it up with on the other side to pound on.
Do you think the red on the bolt ends is thread locker that someone put on it? Heat might be needed and that's an issue for discoloration of the finish if a lot is required.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Mountain Brook. AL
Posts: 4,002
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 303 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 136 Times
in
104 Posts
If you had access to a MIG welder or a friend with one, weld a slightly smaller nut to the stripped nut and
use a wrench to get it off. Replacement "T" nuts are available for this type mount.
Google "welding nut' on youtube for videos explaining this approach.
use a wrench to get it off. Replacement "T" nuts are available for this type mount.
Google "welding nut' on youtube for videos explaining this approach.
Last edited by sch; 12-12-20 at 11:41 AM.
Likes For sch:
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'd drill it using a drill that is the size or tad more than the hex someone other than you must have used when it stripped. <grin>
You might find a torx bit that it a little bigger and tap it into the head and try that, but you'd risk marring up the DR with whatever you backed it up with on the other side to pound on.
Do you think the red on the bolt ends is thread locker that someone put on it? Heat might be needed and that's an issue for discoloration of the finish if a lot is required.
You might find a torx bit that it a little bigger and tap it into the head and try that, but you'd risk marring up the DR with whatever you backed it up with on the other side to pound on.
Do you think the red on the bolt ends is thread locker that someone put on it? Heat might be needed and that's an issue for discoloration of the finish if a lot is required.
#5
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,509
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2746 Post(s)
Liked 3,390 Times
in
2,053 Posts
Pound a suitable torx bit in it.
Likes For dedhed:
#6
Sr Member on Sr bikes
It’s weird for the mounting bolt to be screwed from inside the stays/dropouts. If you remove that small red cap on the outside does it possible expose another hex head???
Dan
Dan
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Likes For Jicafold:
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#9
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,509
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2746 Post(s)
Liked 3,390 Times
in
2,053 Posts
Likes For dedhed:
#10
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,784
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3587 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times
in
1,934 Posts
That's the first thing I'd try. Drilling it out will be awkward because the other side of the rear triangle will make it hard to get the drill in there and aligned properly. If you can do it (right-angle drill?), a left hand twist drill bit would help unscrew the bolt.
#11
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,784
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3587 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times
in
1,934 Posts
That's the way Simplex does it. Say no more. The red cap on the other side is to discourage you from trying to remove the derailleur that way. That is the adjustment for the spring tension, and cranking on it more than a fraction of a turn will break the spring.
#12
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,509
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2746 Post(s)
Liked 3,390 Times
in
2,053 Posts
Older Simplex derailleurs don't mount on a threaded dropout. The Simplex DO is unthreaded and the bolt at issue is a shoulder bolt the sits in the unthreaded dropout mount installed from the rear threading into the RD itself. Either way, if he's parting it out, getting out the bolt was the only issue other than sourcing a replacement bolt to sell the RD.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...s-peugeot.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...s-peugeot.html