Holy Cannoli!! Replacing a fat tire tube
#1
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Holy Cannoli!! Replacing a fat tire tube
The tire is a 27.5 X 2.80 Schwalbe Super moto X....I caught a nail in it and despite being pretty comfortable changing a regular tire tube (about 15 minutes) this tire took me nearly 1 1/2 hrs to remove the tire, replace the tube and reinstall the tire on the wheel. Man, I'm glad it was a slow leak and I was at work already when I discovered it, I would have not been happy to try to replace this tube on the road at night for the first time. Now at least I know and can be prepared--- VERY difficult to break the tire bead and remove the tire, also VERY difficult to remount it. Just a heads-up all.
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Agreed. It took me over an hour get the fat tire off the rim and back on again. I broke all my plastic tire irons and had to use screw drivers. The next day, I bought a pair of steel core tire irons at Performance Bike for a few bucks. I eventually swapped out my cheap tires for Veeco's with folding beads. Much easier to get on and off the rim..
How did you pump it back up? A little bike pump would take forever. At home, a floor pump still takes about 40 strokes. I bought a CO2 inflator but haven't used it yet.
How did you pump it back up? A little bike pump would take forever. At home, a floor pump still takes about 40 strokes. I bought a CO2 inflator but haven't used it yet.
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I've changed a couple (4" wide) for friends, and it was the same ordeal. Imagining what it would be like on the trail has kept me from owning a fat bike.
#4
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Agreed. It took me over an hour get the fat tire off the rim and back on again. I broke all my plastic tire irons and had to use screw drivers. The next day, I bought a pair of steel core tire irons at Performance Bike for a few bucks. I eventually swapped out my cheap tires for Veeco's with folding beads. Much easier to get on and off the rim..
How did you pump it back up? A little bike pump would take forever. At home, a floor pump still takes about 40 strokes. I bought a CO2 inflator but haven't used it yet.
How did you pump it back up? A little bike pump would take forever. At home, a floor pump still takes about 40 strokes. I bought a CO2 inflator but haven't used it yet.
#5
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Anybody else run their fat tires over-pressurized? I run about 75 psi and it reduces rolling resistance on the road--so far, no problems.
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I don't think it reduces rolling resistance, it just vibrates more and feels faster. The tests I have seen show a minimal improvement (maybe 4 watts - nothing I can really feel)
Fat bike really benefit from going tubeless.
Fat bike really benefit from going tubeless.
#7
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Why doesn't a manufacturer build an e-bike specific tire set up that performs similarly to a motorcycle tire regarding flats? They as positing these things as commuter game changers. I can't see anyone dealing with the flats. My hands hurt for a week after changing a tube, I put liners in but I'd figure that the manufacturers would pick up the slack. This mode of transportation doesn't work as a car replacement if you're stranded once a month due to a flat tire. I sent Schwalbe an email saying as much. Ill post whatever their answer is.
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Hmmm...
This winter/spring I had a flat on my 16x3 trailer tire (which I'm running moped tires on it). The moped tires seem tough, but certainly did get a flat. I was worried that it would be a pain, but really wasn't that bad.
It was freezing cold out, and had a hole necessitating a patch (no limping home, no spare), but otherwise, it wasn't any different than patching any other tire.
I have also popped the 20x4.25 tire off of the cargo bike a couple of times. I need to fix another slow leak. No huge ordeal on that one either. Perhaps it has stretched some with use, or I'm getting practice Tire levers help a lot.
This winter/spring I had a flat on my 16x3 trailer tire (which I'm running moped tires on it). The moped tires seem tough, but certainly did get a flat. I was worried that it would be a pain, but really wasn't that bad.
It was freezing cold out, and had a hole necessitating a patch (no limping home, no spare), but otherwise, it wasn't any different than patching any other tire.
I have also popped the 20x4.25 tire off of the cargo bike a couple of times. I need to fix another slow leak. No huge ordeal on that one either. Perhaps it has stretched some with use, or I'm getting practice Tire levers help a lot.
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As far as puncture resistant, some bike tires will swap with moped tires. It depends on the rim sizes, and moped tires often are rated by rim sizes rather than outside diameter sizes.
They at least give you a lot more tread, although I'm not convinced about puncture resistance.
It may be that bikes often ride more where cast-offs are (road shoulders), so we're naturally at greater risk than other vehicles.
For my road bike, I'm always prepared for a flat, and really only get a flat maybe once every few months. It could put me behind for an appointment, but so far really hasn't been that big of a deal.
I've experimented with narrow Tannus flat free tires on one bike. I'd very much consider them if I was running a commercial delivery service. They are a pain to install, but should run flat-free for quite some time.
They at least give you a lot more tread, although I'm not convinced about puncture resistance.
It may be that bikes often ride more where cast-offs are (road shoulders), so we're naturally at greater risk than other vehicles.
For my road bike, I'm always prepared for a flat, and really only get a flat maybe once every few months. It could put me behind for an appointment, but so far really hasn't been that big of a deal.
I've experimented with narrow Tannus flat free tires on one bike. I'd very much consider them if I was running a commercial delivery service. They are a pain to install, but should run flat-free for quite some time.
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Why doesn't a manufacturer build an e-bike specific tire set up that performs similarly to a motorcycle tire regarding flats? They as positing these things as commuter game changers. I can't see anyone dealing with the flats. My hands hurt for a week after changing a tube, I put liners in but I'd figure that the manufacturers would pick up the slack. This mode of transportation doesn't work as a car replacement if you're stranded once a month due to a flat tire. I sent Schwalbe an email saying as much. Ill post whatever their answer is.
I understand your problem. Traditional tires are super easy to change. But it seems most of Schwalbe's tires are trying to be tubless compatible, and that means super stiff beads and tight tire to rim interfaces. I can put on my continental "tubed" tires on in about 60 seconds, but I have spend 60 minutes trying to get a schwalbe tire on a rim it didn't like before I just gave up (with broken tire levers and all).
Making things worse is that there is no standard for tires/wheels. Some tires/wheels fit beautifully, some wheels have a diameter that is slightly too large for for a carbon beaded tire (like Schwalbe), then again some wheels have a diameter that is too small so that the schwalbe tires just blow off if used without a tube. Its a mess.
I do use tubeless for my ebike as it is fairly flat proof (it would take a very large tear to cause a flat). before tubeless I used to use slime tubes, but those don't prevent pinch flats.
#12
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there are som really good youtube videos out there for changing Schwalbe tires, the trick is to get both the beads down into the valley of the rim and keeping them there as you work around the tire, it takes a couple extra minutes once you get the technique. some electrical tape to hold tire in place while your working is a cheap ez to remove trick to help out, kinda like putting your finger on a lace while you tie it
#13
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look at the shape of the rim. There is probably a shelf that holds the bead in place so it doesn't move around, and possibly pop off when run tubeless. Sometimes the bead hangs up on the edge of the shelf. I have had to step on the tire to get the bead off the shelf. As nasabiker says, you have to get the bead down in the well in the center of the rim, and everything gets easier. I just changed my 4" fatbike tires and it was no problem. Some beads are tighter than others though.
#14
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I'm considering a tubeless set up. This way Ill have a spare wheelset all ready to go in case I get to the garage and there's a flat tire waiting for me. Most of my miles are on NYC streets and bike paths. I purchased some Schwalbe folding bead tires as I've heard they're easier to change than non-folding. If these electric bikes are to become the commuting game changers that they are being touted as, this is an issue that manufacturers will have to resolve. I go YEARS without a flat on a car or motorcycle--they need to bring this resiliency to bicycle tires or people wont use them as committed commuters. I put 1500 miles on my Raleigh Lore in 6 weeks of commuting. It was a convenient fun way to get to and from work regardless of the weather---but I also got 3 flats--each one jammed me up pretty good. Points taken regarding sliding the bead toward the center of the rim, this has worked for me but it was still WAY more of a PITA than it should be. If we all speak up to the manufacturers they may listen.
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If these electric bikes are to become the commuting game changers that they are being touted as, this is an issue that manufacturers will have to resolve. I go YEARS without a flat on a car or motorcycle--they need to bring this resiliency to bicycle tires or people wont use them as committed commuters.
I'll occasionally get a flat, but it is only every 1000 miles or so. Maybe one every month or two?
Yeah, it would be nice if it was fewer flats, but in the past, I was only putting on a fraction of the miles, and it seemed a flat every couple of weeks.
As mentioned above, I think part of the issue with bikes is where one rides on the road. Center of lane vs road shoulder which gets all the castoffs. So a motorcycle simply is riding on better pavement.
If you really want to go flat-free, then go with Tannus solid tires. They'll ride a little different from your regular tires, but you'll never get a flat again. I've only done the 23mm... but there are some wider ones. You just have to specify the firmness, I think.
#16
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Tubeless. That is the answer if you have a problem getting flats. There are big beefy, heavy, poor riding tires like the Schwabe Marathons or Specialized Armadillos that should keep you from getting flats even riding over big chunks of broken bottles. But if you find you’re still getting flats, tubeless is the way to go.
As for changing tubes, maybe go to a bike shop and ask if they could give you some tips and show you how to change a tire that you know is tight fitting on the rim. There is definitely some technique involved. No shame in asking someone to show you a good way to do it. In my opinion, not struggling for half an hour to change a tire every time you get a flat is well worth the $20 it will cost you to pay a bike shop to change one and ask them to show you how to do easily.
As for changing tubes, maybe go to a bike shop and ask if they could give you some tips and show you how to change a tire that you know is tight fitting on the rim. There is definitely some technique involved. No shame in asking someone to show you a good way to do it. In my opinion, not struggling for half an hour to change a tire every time you get a flat is well worth the $20 it will cost you to pay a bike shop to change one and ask them to show you how to do easily.
#17
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I'm going to go tubeless and try it out. The problem I had changing the scwalbe super moto x was that after fight the tire and getting it on...I always pinched the tube. If I set up[ to go tube less there's no tube to pinch. What's your experience with tubeless been? Do you carry plugs to fix small punctures? Does the tire sealant make that a non-issue. Any insights would be helpful. Thanks all!!
#18
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This is a demo video to sell a product, so I’m not going to say it works as magically as the video, but you get the point. There are also lots of videos on youtube of how to set up tubeless, including many different approaches. I personally went with a “ghetto” setup using the presta valve from an old tube, gorilla tape, and two small bottles(3oz I think?) of Stan’s sealant. I did use tubeless rims, though. Believe it or not, it held air from the first time I aired it up almost a year ago and is still holding fine to this day. I’ve topped up the tire pressure probably every other month, but that’s it. I’m about to have to redo the whole thing simply because I’ve worn out my tires and am about to replace them. In all fairness, though, I hardly ever got flats before. A friend and I did a 1,000mi bike tour running the exact same tires(with tubes). He got 11 flats on that trip. I got two.
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I ran Stan's off road for a couple of years with good success, but there are considerations. The sealant needed to be "refreshed" every three months or so in hot weather (about the only thing we get in socal) and a couple of times during the period the tire sustained a gash. This required a tube to repair plus patch for the tire (AIR, I used a Powerbar wrapper); additionally, the sealant had to be removed completely or the tube "squished" out when it was pumped up. Schwalbe Marathons may not ride great but are worth ir for my rear hub system.
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Tubeless may help... just keep in mind that it isn't maintenance free. You will need to periodically update the sealant.
If you are pinching the tube during install, then you need to work on your technique.
I always try to push the tube up into the tire before mounting, then push it over into the rim as I mount.
If I ever get the tube sandwiched between the tire and the rim, then I stop and fix it before proceeding.
It is possible that while you're installing, you're rolling the tire over the tube, and thus creating an extra layer to overcome.
My RS-10 rims came with a bright blue rim tape the whole width of the rim that I can gently push the tire over and verify that I can see it all the way around the wheel before inflating.
If you are pinching the tube during install, then you need to work on your technique.
I always try to push the tube up into the tire before mounting, then push it over into the rim as I mount.
If I ever get the tube sandwiched between the tire and the rim, then I stop and fix it before proceeding.
It is possible that while you're installing, you're rolling the tire over the tube, and thus creating an extra layer to overcome.
My RS-10 rims came with a bright blue rim tape the whole width of the rim that I can gently push the tire over and verify that I can see it all the way around the wheel before inflating.
#21
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I don't understand, isn't this not a new or e-bike specific problem? Some tire and rim combinations are just a huge pain to deal with, that's what I've learned...
#22
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^ Correct. A different subforum might be better for it. Maybe it is more of an important issue with ebikes due to the added dificulty of changing a flat with a hub drive system?
#23
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Thanks for everyones insights. I've watched a ****-ton of youtube videos and to be honest, I'm a bit embarrassed that I haven't gone tube-less years ago. I guess I just got set in my ways. I felt this was a specific to e-bike issue only because an e-bike rider could commit to a much longer commute, and thereby a flat that the rider couldn't repair on the fly, made this manner of commuting not viable with he rider being stranded far from home. Thanks again, Im glad I had you all as a resource for this.