amillhench

Installed the titanium Phil bottom bracket and Record crankset with Stronglight 42T along with the cockpit on the Mercian.

Waiting for brakes and levers, chain, and possibly a matching set of 650b wheels.

28s seem so skinny these days!

merziac

amillhench

Now that's a proper British build.

Mercian, Brooks, GB bars and KROMO stem.

SurferRosa

Shakedown ride and first pics of this '86 Miyata tourer I finished about a week ago, but had to wait until it was safe to go outside and breathe.

This is the first bike with cantilevers I think I've ever had my wrench on, which was kinda fun. The overhaul went down without a hitch. Much of the outside of bike was perfectly encased in a thin layer of grime, protecting it from decades of non-use. But I'm still really surprised how little rust there is anywhere. The top tube guides and interior of the bb shell look brand new. Miyata paint jobs are most rad.


.

ryansu

Be careful SurferRosa late 80s Japanese tourers will start you down a slippery slope ..... to more late 80s Japanese touring bikes. Nice 610

Murray Missile 

Just did my first wheel "build". My neighbor asked me to work on his grandson's 60's Murray built Foremost tank bike. His grandson is autistic and is very attached to it. Basically he trashed the front axle bearings and hub. The bike isn't worth the price of a new wheel so I made a couple calls and found another chrome drop center steel wheel off another Murray. It was a freebie so I wasn't expecting much and it did not disappoint. I was able to salvage the hub, axle, bearings and a few spokes. I told him since this would be my first time lacing up a wheel from scratch it was on the house.

I had to cut most of the spokes to get the hub out. When I loosened the spokes on his wheel the rim went all over the place. It had dips, twists, waves..... you name it. I've been able to true some pretty out of whack wheels but this was on a whole other level!

I got it laced up that's when the "fun" began. I've never had a rim move around like this. Not only did I have to fight the hop and lateral runout but the rim wanted to roll or twist on what would be the centerline of the tire. I finally got it where it was at least better than the original and called it good but it's definitely nothing I'd write the folks at home about.

Frustration aside, I'm anxious to try it on a better quality rim now. Even though it didn't come out like I wanted it was still very satisfying.

mrv 

- pretty bike! nice build!! but!!!!
.... the quick release is on the wrong side the bike....... must..... fix..... OCD - help!

SurferRosa

No, I always position the front skewer lever on the right side of the bike.

oneclick 

Just got the first one off, was too tight for my standard method (tool in vice, wheel on tool, hands grip rim and BIG grunt).

I tried the big grunt several times, realised I wasn't willing to grunt any bigger. Took the freewheel apart, hit the body with a propane torch for a minute, and a normal big grunt worked.

And I didn't (yet) loose any of those bloddy balls, got each race's worth with a supermagnet and a ziplock bag.

xiaoman1 

pcb
As always, nice rides and great photography.
Best, Ben

thumpism 

Working on this Giant townie-type bike I found that was missing the seat and post. Found a brochure online that says it takes a 30.9 and the largest one I had was 30.2 so it was off to a local Giant dealer to try a few things. A 30.9 from a different Giant bike did fit so the question is: new post or shim an existing one? I have plenty of 27.2 posts in my stash and the shop had a 27.2/30.9 shim for five bucks, so that is the route I took. Now to dig out a long 27.2 post from the depths of the garage.

Lest you think this is not C&V, the post I have in mind is a 400mm Ritchey still in the package left over from my repping days, a sample that I've had for about 25 years.

Slightspeed

Nothing much to show, but the rear wheel on my '64 Legnano had a lot of side play. I didn't measure it, but you could grab the tire and it moved side to side way too much. These are old high flange Legnano branded Campy hubs original to the bike, but hung on the garage wall for 20 years after I switched to a different clincher wheelset. I had new spokes and clincher rims laced onto these just before 2019 Eroica, and the bike probably has less than 500 miles since then. Anyway, yesterday, I tore into it. I know I serviced the bearings (new balls) and adjusted the cones before the wheel build, and never saw wheel "slop" till just a few days ago, on a 38 mile Malibu ride. In that short time, the bearings needed grease, so I gave them a good cleaning, and finally got the cones right. All good now, just surprised it needed it so soon. I have these same type hubs on several bikes, and haven't needed to touch the others in years.

noglider 

I finally finished my 1971 Raleigh Super Course which was a project that dragged out too long. I'm pleased with the result. More of the story is here.

merziac

You'll want to replace those bearings, magnet is a no no, makes em stick and not rotate properly.

Slightspeed

I just updated the wheelset on my $20 (from CL) '78 Super Course. It was just a frame, BB, stem, bars and calipers, no drivetrain or wheelset. It was a spare parts bin special, and I really enjoy riding it, so I decded to go for for new wheels, instead of the mismstched set I was using. These low flange Campy hubs with MA40 dark anodized rims popped up at a price I couldnt pass up. Not sure about the dark finish on the rims, but the clean straight brake tracks are a big improvement over the old wheels. I transferred the 28c Gators over, but plan on new skinwall Paselas soon.

OldsCOOL

Thrashing this ‘89 Trek 830 Antelope, my winter bike. Winters are hard on bikes and this one needed an overhaul. Entire drivetrain replaced, new chain, upraded to newer wider tires, had to torch out the bottom bracket to R&R that, swapped out a froze up freewheel, new cables and a tune up. It’s back in snow riding condition and ready to go.

SurferRosa

I had some, did some digging, and found out they were Ofmega, not Campy.

Sounds like your locknuts weren't secured to their cones tight enough, causing them to loosen.

oneclick 

I find it helps them stick to the body on re-assembly.

merziac

That's the problem, they wear improperly, often prematurely and like I said, magnet is a no no for correct service.

FlipBadger

'91 Pinarello Montello - building it with modern part.

thumpism 

When I begin digging in my parts boxes in the garage I keep a mud bucket handy and toss in anything I think I might use, whether on the project bike or a different one. Today I found a rear axle kickstand and thought, "I can use this." My Cresta GT needs some help standing up in the shop area and the gap ahead of the chainstay bridge is a little tight for a center mount stand.


The actual object of the exercise was to find the 27.2 post to be used with the new 27.2-30.9 shim on the found Giant townie bike. I did find the aforementioned 400mm Ritchey post but also came across a 25.4 Tamer suspension post and a 25.4-30.9 shim so tried that on the bike and it is long enough to work in making the 18" frame fit 25" frame me. I can still use the Ritchey if I decide to do so. That's a Kalloy 27.2 with the black shim I bought yesterday but that post is too short for me.


And here's the Giant ready to go with post and shim, strap-on NiteRider lights, rear rack and trimmed original kickstand so the bike won't tip over.

So, we have the Kalloy 27.2, a Giant 26.8 and a Trans X 25.0, all from my repping days, so from last century. C&V enough?

randyjawa 

Applied the water slide decal art a couple of days ago. Shot four coats of clear top coat, the next day. Rubbed the paint out yesterday and started assembly today...

thumpism 

Pump fix day for the two house floor pumps, a Zefal Husky I bought in the '80s and a Vetta that I found in the alley at our old place probably 20 years ago. All solid C&V stuff. The Vetta with its two-way head has been getting the most play lately while the Husky has been relegated to travel duties (for bike and auto) in the VW Westy. The Vetta has a cracked and leaking hose and the Zefal has a bad gasket in the pump head.

I cut out the bad section and got a brass barb fitting at Lowe's to rejoin the hose sections. Could have used one smaller than 3/16" but this is the smallest they had. It'll do.


The cracking comes from having been folded double for years in the clip for that purpose on the pump body.


The mighty Zefal just needs a new rubber washer to replace the original that got all crusty and disintegrated, and I also need one for my large metal PV adaptor that lives with that pump. Some vendor likely has both.




Plenty of other pumps in the house; a dozen HPs and HPXs, plus many different mini Zefals and some Topeaks as well. No lack of pumpage but the floor pumps get the job done more easily.

Oh, and I leveled up the rear rack on the found Giant by using the longer of the stay pairs that came with the Giant rack. Something else from the repping sample bag that's over 20 years old.

Clyde1820

Doing a 1996 Trek 970 build as an upright commuter/city bike.

Got the BB, crank, headset, fork, stem+bars, and wheelset installed. Still have drive train and brakes yet to do. Taking my time, as it's been decades since I've done more than a couple of parts swaps.

Photos here: click.

randyjawa 

Getting closer to ride time...

SurferRosa

Hey, @thumpism, thanks for the inspiration. I need to overhaul my floor pump. Do you put a light oil or anything similar around the plunger or full length of the cylinder? Or ... how do I lubricate it?