spoke lace question
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spoke lace question
On a typical 36 or 32 hole 3 cross lace, is it necessary to go under the first 2 spokes then go on the outside of the 3rd spoke. I rebuilt this rim and simply laced it all under the spokes on the cross. Is that not good or is it ok? I hope this makes sense in how I stated the question.
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Although you could complete the build as-is, I believe you would end up with a wheel that wasn't as durable. I think this is because the spokes somehow benefit from being able to brace on each other under torque etc.. Whatever the reason, it's not an accident that every published wheel builder teaches it this way. It is important to do things the right way. If I were you, I would chalk the lost time up to the learning process, and start over again, this time doing it correctly. Good luck, and take your time. Nobody ever rushed through their first wheel build and ended up with a strong wheel. Slow and patient is the way. If you don't have the patience, I'd recommend that you just have someone else do the building. Best of luck.
-Jeremy
-Jeremy
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IIRC, lacing the heads out spokes first is far easier than the alternative, so the second half of the lacing process will in fact be over, over, under.
By lacing the heads in spokes first, your final side spokes will be difficult to get laced without overly bending the spokes to get them rotated up toward the rim after they've been laced through the flange.
-Jeremy
By lacing the heads in spokes first, your final side spokes will be difficult to get laced without overly bending the spokes to get them rotated up toward the rim after they've been laced through the flange.
-Jeremy
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You're going to lose some lateral stability especially in the turns. However, they build radial wheels without any crossing of spokes. Lacing of wheels is dependent upon the weight of the rider, the type of riding - rough roads, turns, quick starts, power, and how long do you want your rims to last. Once a rim gets a distortion, it's permanent, then you have to adjust the spoke tension to get the wheel straight, the spoke tension will then be uneven.
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I may be completely mistaken, but intuitively it seems to me that trailing spokes crossing outside is both a fraction more aero and perhaps slightly more laterally stable under braking.
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At the man said - rephrased - the last count is the count that you weave.
=8-)
=8-)
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5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
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Thanks for the help! I will just redo the lacing this is a practice run wheel. The next great question is if a spoke tension meter is really necessary?
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Not every wheel thread has to morph into a podium for us to yell lacing preferences at each other from. I know there are some of you who can offer an answer to the question asked...not questions that weren't asked.
-Jeremy
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=8-)
__________________
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
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In addition, it's probably a good idea to build a few wheels without one just to get more familiar with how they feel and sound at various tensions. Would suck to be a wheel builder who can only work on a TS-2 with a FSA tension gauge in hand. Get some experience on a practice wheel that you can experiment on, test and re-true etc., and when it comes time to build some more 'risky' wheels, maybe get the meter for that. That way you'll be adequately equipped on the side of the road with only a spoke wrench and brake calipers to work with.
-Jeremy
#14
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For almost all of us yes, unless you use the Jobst Brandt's method of tensioning until the rim warps and then backing off and giving a final truing and stress relieving.
#16
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OTOH. I have some 30 year old wheels, I built, that are still fine ,
I've never owned any tensionmeter ..
I've never owned any tensionmeter ..
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at work, i build a lot of custom track wheels, and can get them really close to correct just by feel becasue I am consistently using the same hub and rim combos. When something different comes along, i break out the tensiometer a lot earlier than just the final checking.
#18
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Gerd Schraner("The Art of Wheelbuilding", who does it for a living thought he didn't need a tensiometer either. His experience showed him otherwise and he uses one.
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I've built a wheel using Sheldon Brown's guide. He suggests Doing the 'heads out' spokes first, and that on the rear wheel these should be trailing spokes unless you have disc or drum brakes. Front wheels without discs or drums can be done either way, and on my bike the front wheel is laced alternately, so that one set of leading and one set of trailings spokes are 'heads out'.
I've never used a tensionmeter other than plucking the spokes during building to check for even tension. During the trueing of the wheel, the spoke tensions will end up slightly mismatched anyway. I true the wheel, then check the pitch of each spoke to check they're roughly similar.
I've never used a tensionmeter other than plucking the spokes during building to check for even tension. During the trueing of the wheel, the spoke tensions will end up slightly mismatched anyway. I true the wheel, then check the pitch of each spoke to check they're roughly similar.