Not sure what tool to use?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Not sure what tool to use?
Hi.
I usually figure this out on my own, but have not see this type before. Does this use a pin spanner? or a socket of some type?
Thanks in Advance.
I usually figure this out on my own, but have not see this type before. Does this use a pin spanner? or a socket of some type?
Thanks in Advance.
#2
Really Old Senior Member
Whatever you use, start applying penetrating oil now.
#3
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Thread Starter
Yeah, Already started. Funny the reset of the bike "fell apart" all greasy, except the bottom is worn for lack of lubrication.
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Park SPA-3, yellow handle. No longer in production. Although do know that this series of loop bent rod (SPA-1-6) tools are fairly flexible and not well suited to high forces. Andy
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Those Park pin spanners are useful but, as Andy noted, they aren't strong enough the apply any serious torque. There are much stronger pin spanners available such as Park's SPA-6 but for a one-time use (you are going to discard this thing I hope) the hammer and punch approach makes more sense.
#7
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Thread Starter
I tried hammer and brass punch, just for giggles. Then sprayed it. Just going to wait a bit and try the other side.
Need to inspect the inside somehow, and need to spray the seat tube also. It is weird, because the frame is very clean, with little rust.
Thanks
Need to inspect the inside somehow, and need to spray the seat tube also. It is weird, because the frame is very clean, with little rust.
Thanks
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I'm hoping that you have good luck with this. The picture doesn't lead to an optimistic view. Patience is the key.
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Sure you're going the correct direction? What's the diameter of the BB shell and what brand bike?
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#11
Banned
a 6 pin spanner engaging them all
with some grinding skill you might make one out of a deep socket ..
with some grinding skill you might make one out of a deep socket ..
#12
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2 correct diameter punches with hex shafts set the correct distance apart between 2 pieces of flat bar stock and bolted or a big vice grips/C clamp to squeeze it together.
You could even run a bolt between the flat stock and threaded into the spindle to hold it in.
You could even run a bolt between the flat stock and threaded into the spindle to hold it in.
Last edited by dedhed; 06-07-19 at 04:53 PM.
#13
Senior Member
yikes....get a pin tool used to change pads on an angle grinder....quick look on Amazon shows they're cheaper than the old Park
#14
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Thread Starter
I got the drive side off easy. It is Raleigh, my favorite. :-)
I just been soaking it, and got lucky at garage sale today. Correct tool just happened to be in a PronTools set ($5 whole set, so they must be good), hope it last on time.
They must have been running this thing without grease for 10 years, what is left of the races are paper thin, hug groove in the cups ( going to turn these into thread chasers), axle is deep grooved also.
There was a scrap bike with a great bottom end, so I hope save the Raleigh.
Also there is one step paste the torch, 12Lbs Sledge. :-)
Thanks Everyone.
I just been soaking it, and got lucky at garage sale today. Correct tool just happened to be in a PronTools set ($5 whole set, so they must be good), hope it last on time.
They must have been running this thing without grease for 10 years, what is left of the races are paper thin, hug groove in the cups ( going to turn these into thread chasers), axle is deep grooved also.
There was a scrap bike with a great bottom end, so I hope save the Raleigh.
Also there is one step paste the torch, 12Lbs Sledge. :-)
Thanks Everyone.
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Follow up for those interested. Made the tool, once it got started after a lot of heat, it came out pretty easy.
Made a thread chaser out of the cup, still able to use ratchet with this setup.
Now to the stuck seat post. :-)
Made a thread chaser out of the cup, still able to use ratchet with this setup.
Now to the stuck seat post. :-)
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Agreed. Nice workmanship.
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How is the bolt held in so it can be screwed into the spindle to hold the tool in place and still put the ratchet in? Or is it smaller diameter just to center & align the tool?
#23
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Well, because the other side was off, it was just a washer and a nut to hold it in place. The socket being of the cheap no name variety, has a kind of square flange inside, that allow a countersunk screw to drop in perfectly.
Next day I got the seat post out. Brute method, that saved the frame.
Grind until to start to see rust. Rust mean the frame tube is there. Seat post should be thinner than paper.
Then at the thin point I hammer a long thin punch on one side, spray some helper, then Vice grips and Big,Big, channel lock to turn vice grips,
Sort of like peeling inside out. :-)
Next day I got the seat post out. Brute method, that saved the frame.
Grind until to start to see rust. Rust mean the frame tube is there. Seat post should be thinner than paper.
Then at the thin point I hammer a long thin punch on one side, spray some helper, then Vice grips and Big,Big, channel lock to turn vice grips,
Sort of like peeling inside out. :-)
Last edited by NickDandy; 06-30-19 at 10:17 PM.
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Make socket , about 20 minute, remove cup under 10 minute. Seat post, grrr. Under two hours, but you have to go slower at the end so as not damaging the seat tube.