Avid BB5 frustration
10-30-19, 01:41 PM
#26
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I am having a hard time taking recommendations from someone who admittedly can't tell the difference between using a Road vs MTB caliper.
That said, I have read good things about Spyres. However, they are twice as much as BB7s. I suspect the main different is less in performance than in how hard it is to set them up and how often you need to adjust them to maintain that performance. My road BB7s need some knob-twiddling about every 10 rides. But it is pretty easy.
I have thought about trying the Spykes on my MTB, but I read a lot of complaints bout the adjuster knobs turning on there own when riding in the rough.
The bb7s I've used on my MTBs are almost as powerful as my XTs.
That said, I have read good things about Spyres. However, they are twice as much as BB7s. I suspect the main different is less in performance than in how hard it is to set them up and how often you need to adjust them to maintain that performance. My road BB7s need some knob-twiddling about every 10 rides. But it is pretty easy.
I have thought about trying the Spykes on my MTB, but I read a lot of complaints bout the adjuster knobs turning on there own when riding in the rough.
The bb7s I've used on my MTBs are almost as powerful as my XTs.
10-31-19, 05:09 AM
#27
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K
How do you know that?
If you look under “specs” for the BB5 road it lists back as a color option (Gloss Black, Platinum, Silver). And here is one for sale:
https://www.rei.com/product/847061/a...sc-brake-160mm
In any event I assume there is a model number somewhere in the caliper.
How do you know that?
If you look under “specs” for the BB5 road it lists back as a color option (Gloss Black, Platinum, Silver). And here is one for sale:
https://www.rei.com/product/847061/a...sc-brake-160mm
In any event I assume there is a model number somewhere in the caliper.
10-31-19, 05:12 AM
#28
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10-31-19, 05:32 AM
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If your front brake is the same as the rear, it's going to end up loosing adjustment and dragging like the rear.
A photo of your front brake would probably show why it's stopping better then the rear brake.
10-31-19, 05:49 AM
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I would never buy a bb5. BB7 is worth the price difference.
10-31-19, 07:27 AM
#31
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Nice bike, and nice scenery!
Your rear caliper looks to be adjusted at near its full cable travel. That's generally going to result in a pretty heavy brake, and doesn't really have any advantages (that I'm aware of). If you replace the cable and housing, I would adjust it so your caliper is mounted so the outboard pad (the one closest to the outside of the bike) is JUST BARELY clearing the brake rotor (no rub), and then thread the backer for the inboard pad (the one closest to the hub of the bike) in so that it, too, is JUST BARELY clearing the brake rotor (no rub). The activation arm should be all the way relaxed in this position, and the cable completely slack. At that point, you have the least amount of preload on the internal spring in the caliper, and your brake lever pull will be the lightest.
That is, of course, assuming that you have compatible pull ratios on the caliper and lever.
Your rear caliper looks to be adjusted at near its full cable travel. That's generally going to result in a pretty heavy brake, and doesn't really have any advantages (that I'm aware of). If you replace the cable and housing, I would adjust it so your caliper is mounted so the outboard pad (the one closest to the outside of the bike) is JUST BARELY clearing the brake rotor (no rub), and then thread the backer for the inboard pad (the one closest to the hub of the bike) in so that it, too, is JUST BARELY clearing the brake rotor (no rub). The activation arm should be all the way relaxed in this position, and the cable completely slack. At that point, you have the least amount of preload on the internal spring in the caliper, and your brake lever pull will be the lightest.
That is, of course, assuming that you have compatible pull ratios on the caliper and lever.
I have the rear brake set to what sort of works, I might mess with it a bit more this weekend, but changing the cable and housing can't hurt...
Is there are model number anywhere on it?
I’m with cobba in suspecting that you have a MTB version, but extra verification would help.
BB7s are a bit easier to get set up right... but even those take some practice. I’ve used BB7s for almost 18 years, and it took a while to get the art and science down for good setup.
I’m with cobba in suspecting that you have a MTB version, but extra verification would help.
BB7s are a bit easier to get set up right... but even those take some practice. I’ve used BB7s for almost 18 years, and it took a while to get the art and science down for good setup.
Did you see the link I posted for the 2 x BB7 road brakes for $62?
If your front brake is the same as the rear, it's going to end up loosing adjustment and dragging like the rear.
A photo of your front brake would probably show why it's stopping better then the rear brake.
If your front brake is the same as the rear, it's going to end up loosing adjustment and dragging like the rear.
A photo of your front brake would probably show why it's stopping better then the rear brake.
I haven't had a lick of problem with that front. Even as much as I take the front wheel on and off for transporting the bike. Weird... But I get it. I am considering an upgrade to the bike next year, that may include hydraulic brakes. Depends. Unless I buy a gravel specific bike. Or fat bike...
I do have a front...
Front works great still. I just want the rear to stop as good as the front.
Last edited by zjrog; 10-31-19 at 07:31 AM.
10-31-19, 09:38 AM
#32
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A side on photo like the rear brake would of been better for comparison but I think I can see what's happening.
On the rear brake, the torque arm looks to be in a more advanced position then the front brake, the torque arm can only be rotated so far, when it's rotated to it's max, it won't be able to push the pad any further.
I'd say the outer pad is probably being pushed as far as it can go and it isn't able to put any more pressure on the rotor.
On the rear brake, the torque arm looks to be in a more advanced position then the front brake, the torque arm can only be rotated so far, when it's rotated to it's max, it won't be able to push the pad any further.
I'd say the outer pad is probably being pushed as far as it can go and it isn't able to put any more pressure on the rotor.
10-31-19, 09:58 AM
#33
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Makes sense. So they need to back up that adjustment and take up the slack with the cable?
10-31-19, 10:23 AM
#34
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A side on photo like the rear brake would of been better for comparison but I think I can see what's happening.
On the rear brake, the torque arm looks to be in a more advanced position then the front brake, the torque arm can only be rotated so far, when it's rotated to it's max, it won't be able to push the pad any further.
I'd say the outer pad is probably being pushed as far as it can go and it isn't able to put any more pressure on the rotor.
On the rear brake, the torque arm looks to be in a more advanced position then the front brake, the torque arm can only be rotated so far, when it's rotated to it's max, it won't be able to push the pad any further.
I'd say the outer pad is probably being pushed as far as it can go and it isn't able to put any more pressure on the rotor.
11-06-19, 07:26 AM
#35
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I got the BB5 Road in yesterday, I didn't get a chance to put it on last night. But, I can tell you that I am now quite certain the brakes on the bike are MTB. The pull on the arms are completely different, At the point in travel on the MTB caliper, the Road is fully engaged on the rotor. I'm glad there is a rotor included, as there is a tiny bump in my existing rotor... Even so, that bump isn't the issue. Cable pull was. I still don't fully understand how the front is so nice, and the rear worked, but doesn't now. It looks like it will be a nice weekend, so I hope to get some trail time on the bike.
The ad showed it in black. But really doesn't matter to me... As long as it works.
The ad showed it in black. But really doesn't matter to me... As long as it works.
Last edited by zjrog; 11-06-19 at 10:27 AM.
11-06-19, 08:51 AM
#36
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Are you using compression-less housing?
I put it on my bike with BB5, and full housing to the rear brake, and it made a world of difference in the brake performance.
Also there are lots of videos on adjusting BB5 brakes using a business card as a spacer, it a quick easy method of adjusting the brakes.
I put it on my bike with BB5, and full housing to the rear brake, and it made a world of difference in the brake performance.
Also there are lots of videos on adjusting BB5 brakes using a business card as a spacer, it a quick easy method of adjusting the brakes.
11-06-19, 10:01 AM
#37
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I got the BB5 Road in yesterday, I didn't get a chance to put it on last night. But, I can tell you that I am now quite certain the brakes on the bike are MTB. The pull on the arms are completely different, At the point in travel on the MTB caliper, the Road is fully engaged on the rotor. I'm glad there is a rotor included, as there is a tiny bump in my existing rotor... Even so, that bump isn't the issue. Cable pull was. I still don't fully understand how the front is so nice, and the rear worked, but doesn't now. It looks like it will be a nice weekend, so I hope to get some trail time on the bike.
You may have a better setup now, but I would still recommend compressionless, since it will allow for more clearance and/or more power and max lever throw.
11-06-19, 10:23 AM
#38
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A lack of compressionless housing could explain it. If you have squishy housing, you have to run your brake pads really close in order to compensate for the fact that so much of your lever throw is dedicated to compressing your housing. The rear brake housing has more squish than the front, especially if you’re using full length housing (side note: I believe this “squish” is the reason that frame stops exist).
You may have a better setup now, but I would still recommend compressionless, since it will allow for more clearance and/or more power and max lever throw.
You may have a better setup now, but I would still recommend compressionless, since it will allow for more clearance and/or more power and max lever throw.
Last edited by zjrog; 11-06-19 at 03:56 PM.
11-06-19, 11:52 AM
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Yokozuna looks nice but I think there is a Jagwire compressionless brake housing as well. But maybe it isn’t as stiff?
11-06-19, 02:00 PM
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Yeah there are levels to stiffness. Part of it is making sure the longitudinal wires don’t “bow out”. It doesn’t seem like Sram Slickwire Pro is super stiff either. But generally speaking, something marked “compressionless” is better than something that isn’t.
11-06-19, 11:42 PM
#41
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I wish I could afford the Yokozuna cable housings. Nice stuff. But I'd grow tired of Ramen noodles after paying for them...
I took the MTB caliper off the bike, and thought I'd share a comparison between the MTB and Road calipers...
Pretty obvious the difference in pull to get the pads on the disc.
Just thought I'd share this. Next up, put the Road caliper on the bike and check it out, then, swap the cable and rewrap the Woodchippers!
And a secondary question. Is there any value or performance to be gained in going to a 180mm disc from the 160?
I took the MTB caliper off the bike, and thought I'd share a comparison between the MTB and Road calipers...
Pretty obvious the difference in pull to get the pads on the disc.
Just thought I'd share this. Next up, put the Road caliper on the bike and check it out, then, swap the cable and rewrap the Woodchippers!
And a secondary question. Is there any value or performance to be gained in going to a 180mm disc from the 160?
11-08-19, 03:05 PM
#42
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New frustration. One would expect some dimensional stasis in manufacturing. But the Road caliper sits differently. Pictures later. But looking for spacing ideas...
11-08-19, 03:33 PM
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11-08-19, 04:29 PM
#45
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if you didn't get the set-up guide in the box here is a link.BB5's are much easier than 7's to set-up.https://cdn.sram.com/sites/default/fi...d7_English.pdf space it with shims. https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=63762&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwN-h48bb5QIVC2KGCh2BTQYcEAQYAyABEgITmfD_BwE
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11-08-19, 08:10 PM
#46
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Some photos of how it's attached might be useful.
The old adapter and the new adapter are for different size rotors.
Old adapter = rear 160mm rotor/ front 180mm
New adapter = rear 140mm rotor/ front 160mm
Is the adapter orientated the correct way?
.
The old adapter and the new adapter are for different size rotors.
Old adapter = rear 160mm rotor/ front 180mm
New adapter = rear 140mm rotor/ front 160mm
Is the adapter orientated the correct way?
.
Last edited by cobba; 11-08-19 at 08:15 PM.
11-08-19, 10:50 PM
#47
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I double checked the orientation, I need to get a few more metric washers in the morning. I really NEED to get some dirt under that bike.
Pics of the different adapters tomorrow...
11-08-19, 11:46 PM
#48
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If the adapter is correctly orientated and you're using the correct adapter for the rotor, you shouldn't need any extra washers, you'd only need those spherical washers between the caliper and the adapter.
11-09-19, 11:33 AM
#49
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This would be my approach. From my limited experience the road BB5 and BB7 were shipped for use with 140mm rotors. For 160mm rotors the caliper needs to be tilted away from the rotor by extending the length of the front post - which you can see on your old mtb caliber adaptor. The new one looks like it will only work on a 140mm rotor, even though it was apparently shipped with a 160mm rotor. Just a guess. i bought a (post mount in my case) adaptor kit instead of fiddling with washers and spacers, which has the correct interface for the adjustment washers to seat correctly. As was asked before, why BB5 and not BB7, which are tougher, more precise, both pads are adjustable and uses larger pads, which would possibly not necessitate using such large rotors.
11-09-19, 01:26 PM
#50
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Yeah. Guess what. Self inflicted error. My fault. Corrected. Used the old mount adapter. And it does work much better than the MTB caliper. But I do NOT have compression less housing on the bike, so that will change soon.