geckodudes

Hi guys, new cyclist here mostly getting a commuter bike cause I'm riding a ton around Davis. Considering getting this: us. letgo. com/en/i/ vintage-raleigh-super-course-road-bike_8d04c56c-3d9c-4418-a773-879b1fe38146 (Made some spaces to be allowed to post, new member)
Been trying to research on the brand and model, but the information is pretty overwhelming especially since I don't know a lot about bikes in general. Guy ballparked around $200, seems overpriced to me based on a couple posts I looked at, wanted to offer something more like $125. When I went and looked at it, seemed like it had a lot of scuffs, some are visible in the pictures. New seat and new tape, but I assume those don't change the value of the bike too much.

As an aside, bike size seems good but I would like the handlbars a little higher, guy said they could be raised by about 5", can anybody verify this? I might just ask him to raise it up next time I go out.

What should I look for when I go to check it out?

Biggest thing I'm worried about is proprietariness of parts, from brief research seems like some raleighs had some interesting specs.

Any info at all is appreciated, even just links for me to read. Thanks a lot guys

jdawginsc 

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/retrora...percourse.html

FINDING THE RALEIGH SUPER COURSE

Only thing I recall is that they were the model that got you aluminum rims but not significantly more...

3alarmer 

...if you're asking because you don't know much about bikes, it's worth $200. Worry less about the scuffs, and more about the mechanical condition. That's a 25" frame, so unless you're about 6'4" tall, it's probably too big for you. Some of the Super course bikes from RAleigh had proprietary threading, but that was mostly the ones that were earlier, with cottered cranks (not this bike).

I guess it's remotely possible the headset is Raleigh threading, but on this later one I don't think so.

WGB 

"Guy said they could be raised by about 5", can anybody verify this?"

Quite possibly the stem can be raised but that will probably be above the safe insertion point.

New tape is a good thing. Probably original was a Brooks leather seat which seller is keeping (or never had and so found a "Raleigh" seat to replace whatever was on it.

As for the components.....
(quote below from ad)

Vintage Raleigh Super Course Road
Bike Frame Fork : Full Lagged Frame and Fork
Frame : Size 25” Or 64 Cm Frame # WS8002488 (I thought they were 20and 1/2 inches, 21 and 1/2 inches, 23 and 1/2 inches and finally 25 and 1/2 inches)
Stem : Raleigh Goose Neck Aluminum (standard Raleigh equipment)
Heandle Bart : Suntour Aluminum (replaced)
Seat Post : SR Raleigh Aluminum (standard Raleigh equipment)
Seat : Brand New Raleigh Black Cushions (replaced)
Crank : Raleigh Aluminum 58C / 42C (standard Raleigh equipment)
Breaks : Raleigh 610 Weinmann Aluminum (standard Raleigh equipment)
Derailleur : Suntour Cyclone (I think he means both derailleurs are Suntour, I don't know if they are original but my Super Course had Simplex or Huret)
Pedals : Brevete AFA with Strapless stainless steel made in France (probably replaced)
Wheel's : Weinmann Double Wall with Sealed Berrings Approved Hubs and Quick Realized Aluminum Made in Belgium (standard Raleigh equipment)
Tires : very good condition Tires (??? Unknown brand)
10 Speeds
Ready to Ride
Very Good Conditions
If you interested please Send me text messages Thank you, so much for Looking


You might looks at this site for comparisons if you want original components
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/retrora...percourse.html

To me it looks like a typical standard "10 speed" and judging from the seller's post seller has simply Googled Super Course and listed the components. If you like the bike but don't like $200 you could make a detailed offer. I don't know your local values for used bikes so you'd have to find comparables but this ad has been up for 21 days. If there are similar large framed bike in your area that aren't selling I'd email seller and ad links to those sales in my email. I'd offer my $125 (and invite him to make a counter offer) and say you haven't sold it and if you want to sell it I'm in, but at a more realistic price.

ramzilla

Dang, that is one big boy bike. If you're well over 6' 3" that's your size. With old bikes like this the price usually depends on the condition of basic consumable parts. Tires, chain, cables, etc. etc. etc........ If it looks like it will go a couple thousand miles before it needs any new parts then it's probably worth around $200. Knock about $75 off the price if tires are dry rotted.

Mr. 66

I would check over the Weinman rims, I have those my set has over grind on the welds. They get a little catchy, very noticeable when wet.

bikemig 

That's more than I'd like to pay for that bike but bike prices are high in Davis CA.

Why don't you start a new thread asking for help in finding a commuter? You'll need to let us know how tall you are (inseam measurement helps as well). Posters will dig through the CL classifieds and let you know which bikes are worth buying.

geckodudes

Wow, didn't know that was an option! This is actually around Petaluma CA (I'm there on weekends), no way I'm trying to buy a bike Davis fall, although the local auction has already passed. I may make that posting. For the rest worrying, I'm 6'4 and the size of the bike is one of the major things going for it. Planning on final offering 150, so we'll see what the guy says.

Thanks everyone for your replies, they were all extremely helpful!

geckodudes

That's just what he said, not sure how much I'll need! I tried it out for a minute, couldn't quite reach the brake levers because my arms were angled down too much. May be able to lower the seat and raise the stem to get a better angle. Hoping not to have to do anything extreme, although I do have access to a machine shop!

3alarmer 

...if the saddle lowering does not work out as far as positioning, you can buy a Nitto Technomic stem. They come in various stem reaches, but all of them will provide quite a bit of up. But they cost 40 bucks on top of what you're already spending. You can often find deals at the Davis Bike Collective, which is over on 4th. But it's not likely you'll get many shots at such a well built and functional bike as the Supercourse in a large size like that one. The advantages of having a large frame made from straight gauge Reynolds, as opposed to butted frame tubing, ought to be apparent when you ride it.

Just looking at the pictures, it's difficult to judge how much mechanical work it will require. But for a larger person, such as yourself, it's hard to think of a bicycle that would be better suited for utilitarian transportation around Davis. The bar end shifters are a nice addition, but whoever installed them certainly believed in using a lot of cable housing.

3alarmer 

.
...also, check out the creative reach extension on this one (for sale out in Fair Oaks). Voyageurs are pretty solid bikes, FWIW.

geckodudes

That looks like it would definitely be an easy reach! Not sure how I'd feel about having to keep my arms bent if I wanted to get in a more aggressive posture. The wind out here is brutal at night. Can't be too picky though. Thanks for spotting that out! Don't know if I can get all the way to FO unfortunately.

Kabuki12

If you really like the bike then the value is in your enjoyment in owning it. I know resale is a consideration for some , but for me , it is more about the pleasure I get from the ride. A couple of hundred bucks for something that you will enjoy and use really isn’t a bad deal and if you can get it at $150 ,hey, even better. Just for the record, I am 6’ and ride a 25” frame. I have a 35” inseam so some of us short trunked folks like tall frames especially ones with a tight cockpit! Have fun with it, Joe. joesvintageroadbikes.wordpress

big chainring 

Looks like a good deal to me even at $200. The late 70's Super Course was a nice bike. 3 tubes Reynolds 531, Suntour GS dropouts, SunTour Cyclone derailleur, barend shifters, 700c Weinmann concave rims. Thats a nice frame and parts group. I paid $140 last spring for a SC of the same vintage. It has some wear and tear, tires were poor, and I thought I got a great deal.

Kabuki12

You got a GREAT deal as far as I can see! Did it come the way it is pictured? My daughter got a 1978 Super Grand Prix for $100 and I thought that was great . It has the bar end shift like yours but no Brooks or 531 tubing, still a nice bike though . What's most important , she loves it. Joe joesvintageroadbikes.wordpress

tkamd73 

That bike looks pretty original, and its got the Cyclone GT derailleur, one of best on a vintage bike. I paid $125 for a nice example of that derailleur when building up mine, which started as a nos frame I picked up for $150
Tim
nos 1978 Supercourse frame


Final build 78 Supercourse

geckodudes

While it's true half of the value comes from enjoyment, half of my enjoyment comes from getting good value! Thanks for your response.

Kabuki12

Thank you for that! I think if we are talking about a bike ,especially $200, that you plan to ride a lot you will certainly get the “value” that you are looking for by the pleasure it brings you.

JoshCattermole9

Nice gold colour on that one.

geckodudes

Just wanted to update everyone. I ended up getting the bike! For initially offered $100 and ended up talking down to my target of 125. Over the week between inspecting and purchasing, the front tire got an irrepairable rupture which I didn't notice. But the guy is gonna give me one of his different tires! I wanted to ride it sooner than later, so I ended up getting a couple of Rubino Pro III's installed with new tubes, total came out to around $60 bucks. I'm planning on removing the surface rust next weekend, and hopefully get some time to clean everything else too. It rides three times as fast as my catapult equator (lol) and being able to extend my legs is pretty awesome. Overall pretty happy with the purchase! Does have a slight grind when I push the left crank down at high speeds, so I'll be talking to the local bike people about that and probably get things inspected. Overall pretty happy with the purchase!

ryansu

Nice score OP I think you got a really good deal. Lots of info here, on the web and you tube (RJ The bike Guy, Sheldon Brown, Mytenspeeds) on doing your own bike maintenance you may also check to see if your school has a bike shop with student rates or if there is a bike co-op in your area. Enjoy the SC

stevel610 

Nice bike. Good luck with it.

Vintage Schwinn

If you are seeking a specific sized bicycle that you will be riding as opposed to someone who delights in finding them and flipping them for extra dough, then the question of pricing is Not as much of a concern. What I mean by that is DO NOT LET $20 or even $25 deter you from getting a decent, ready to ride bike that fits you perfectly and you like it a lot. Sure, you're gonna have sunk costs in most every used bicycle or car that you intend to own and drive/ride. If the price difference is not material, then don't worry about it, IF IT IS THE BICYCLE THAT YOU WANT! Sure, try to get the seller to do better on the price, but don't lose the opportunity to own it, because five days later someone else bought it for $17 more than your best offer. If it isn't exactly what you want, then pass it by, and don't look back and keep hunting, but if it is exactly what you're seeking, then don't let $15 or even $30 get in the way. You're gonna have to install new tires, tubes, and brake pads on most everything that you find. (OR YOU SHOULD SERIOUSLY CONSIDER DOING SO, IF YOU INTEND TO RIDE IT A LOT!) Why? so that you can have the best tires applicable to the type of riding that you do-------------fresh rubber makes a difference, in overall riding and ride comfort------tires are mostly inexpensive, as heck from most any online-web bike shop you can find very good tires at below $25 each with free shipping. Heck, there are some that you can sometimes find for $35 for pair of tires, tubes, and rim strips, with shipping included......brand new, fresh tires, not new old stock.
Now a FLIPPER looks at it from a different perspective.....just buy low and sell high.....and remove/dismantle-part out specific parts which may be worth more segregated from the bike they came on. The FLIPPER cares nothing about the end user's idea of what is original or what is an upgrade part, as the Flipper just wants to get it low and have it go quickly for a tidy profit. The work or cleaning that a Flipper may do is a prognostication on what he/she thinks might speed the sale and improve the net proceeds.
Get the bike that you like. Don't worry about a very small difference in price IF IT IS THE PERFECT BIKE FOR YOU AND YOU REALLY LIKE IT.
If you will ride it and really enjoy riding it, heck the fact that you paid slightly higher than that particular bicycle's typical market value does not really matter because the difference is so small that it is immaterial. Now, paying $350 for a nice 1973 Orange Schwinn VARSITY is significantly overpaying by about $200 or more, for a bicycle that commonly would range from $125 to $150 maybe for a super clean, perfectly roadworthy-rideable example. Heck, you should still look at it as if you or your spouse were seeking a particular color Schwinn, Peugeot, Fuji, or whatever bike that had striking colors and color schemes, it isn't necessarily bad to OVERPAY to get that exact color in as clean-pristine condition as possible. Paying $200 too much is a drop in the bucket in the scheme of things, when you look at what it would cost to re-paint and re-decal a bicycle. Sure, you can buy a decal set for about $35 and you can buy all the paint that you'd need to paint it for $20 but you'd have to thin and have the necessary spray equipment to paint it......plus it helps if you have prior experience.....not to mention the 5 hours plus that you'll have in just prepping the frame for paint......even if you use just ordinary Farm Implement SPRAY PAINT in typical rattle cans. No, joke, as "tractor" spray paint and your Rustoleum and other spray paints from Wal-Mart/Home Depot/Lowes/Tractor Supply/Ace Hardware etc, can and will do an excellent job if the person doing the job is diligent and meticulous in preparation and the manner that they apply the coats of paint. It is a ton of work to do it where it looks good. It is not that difficult so that an average person cannot do an oustanding job with minimal cost for the spray paint and supplies, but it still requires A LABOR OF LOVE that will take many hours to get it right. You can't look at it as if you were a vandal who was spray painting a bridge or a railroad boxcar, or a warehouse door. You can't really shortcut too many steps if you want it to look decent. This is why overpaying for a pristine/clean/nice bike isn't all that bad. That $15 or $20 or maybe even $55 sunk cost isn't gonna matter in the scheme of things if the bike is otherwise super-nice looking and it fits perfect and you really love it!

Vintage Schwinn

Any such old bicycle that you might find with the rear derailleur being from HURET, SIMPLEX, or even CAMPAGNOLO-----you want to then remove that rear derailleur(PLACE IT IN A ZIPLOCK BAGGIE, IN CASE SOME FUTURE OWNER WANTS A MUSEUM PIECE INSTEAD OF SUPERB FUNCTIONALITY). Install a much better, Japanese engineered, SHIMANO or SUNTOUR unit. Yes, the Japanese were masters at copying the best of the then existing European rear derailleur designs and refining and improving them such that they immediately made the SIMPLEX, HURET, and CAMPAGNOLO rear derailleurs obsolete and undesireable when compared to the superior functionality and durability of the MaedaSUNTOUR and SHIMANO units. Twice the cost and half as good never justifies keeping the old European rear derailleurs in use, no matter how cool the ornate script or logo might look on your ride. They are still junk in comparison to anything from SUNTOUR or SHIMANO of the early seventies and up. There is a reason that most everybody went Japanese by 1977. The Europeans were destroyed by the superior engineering of the Japanese. Call it what you want, xerox the best existing design and then improve it with better materials, better tolerances, better fine tuning, better workmanship and better functionality and much better reliability and durability, so yes they did do that and revolutionized bicycle component quality, in just a very few years, once people figured out in 1972 and early 1973 that hey my little sis' $75 Kmart ten speed that she got for Xmas '72 had much better rear derailler than what almost all Chicago's finest and certainly better than all of Nottingham's finest and certainly better than anything from bicycle manufacturers France, Belgium, Germany, Austria, or Italy, or anywhere else in the world except Japan, no matter what their retail price tags might have been. Yeah, there is NO REASON to keep those inferior European rear derailleurs UNLESS IT IS FOR A MUSEUM PIECE, THAT MAINTAINS OR IMPROVES IT'S MARKET VALUE BY KEEPING SAID ORIGINAL REAR DERAILLEUR. If you're gonna ride it, you just cannot beat the SUNTOUR or SHIMANO rear derailleurs. As the old song goes: 'take a sad song and make it better'................

big chainring 

Not a fan of SunTour and Shimano. Gimme a Simplex delrin derailleur any day. This is the C&V forum right?