Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Quick Release to Thru Axle hubs

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Quick Release to Thru Axle hubs

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-04-19, 09:23 PM
  #1  
DarKris
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
DarKris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 619

Bikes: Kona Kahuna DL Drop Bar - Sensah SRX Pro 1x11 (2012 Frame), Giant Toughroad GX 1 - Shimano Road Hydro + SLX 1x10 (2018), Diamondback Sync'r - SRAM NX 1x12 (2020)

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked 97 Times in 54 Posts
Quick Release to Thru Axle hubs

So I'm going to have my wheelset with 9x100 & 10x135 QR changed to 12x100 and 12x142 TA and I went to determine the spoke length required for the new hubs compared to my old hubs. I found that the TA hubs would need spokes that are 2.2-2.5mm longer than my current spokes.

I also calculated the spoke length so I assume that the actual spokes are rounded but I am not 100% sure. However based on the difference that I found, is there a significant difference to require new spokes?
DarKris is offline  
Old 11-05-19, 03:18 AM
  #2  
cpach
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Mt Shasta, CA, USA
Posts: 2,143

Bikes: Too many. Giant Trance X 29, Surly Midnight Special get the most time.

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 533 Post(s)
Liked 312 Times in 236 Posts
How far did the spokes engage in the hubs on the wheels before? If they were flush with the end of the nipple or beyond it might be OK, but 2-2.5mm is kind of a lot in this case. The spokes need to be long enough so that they go past the edge of the rim--otherwise, the nipple will be in tension between the rim and the threads of the spoke, instead of in compression between the end of spoke threads and the rim. Too short and the nipples will be prone to failure. If you're anywhere near the borderline at the very least use brass nipples as they survive being in tension better-aluminum nipples will almost certainly fail if the spokes are significantly too short.
cpach is offline  
Old 11-05-19, 04:33 AM
  #3  
dsaul
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 2,266
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 714 Post(s)
Liked 800 Times in 475 Posts
It seems like it would make more sense to just get a new wheelset with the thru axle hubs, unless you have some really expensive rims.
dsaul is offline  
Likes For dsaul:
Old 11-05-19, 06:23 AM
  #4  
DarKris
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
DarKris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 619

Bikes: Kona Kahuna DL Drop Bar - Sensah SRX Pro 1x11 (2012 Frame), Giant Toughroad GX 1 - Shimano Road Hydro + SLX 1x10 (2018), Diamondback Sync'r - SRAM NX 1x12 (2020)

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked 97 Times in 54 Posts
Originally Posted by cpach
How far did the spokes engage in the hubs on the wheels before? If they were flush with the end of the nipple or beyond it might be OK, but 2-2.5mm is kind of a lot in this case. The spokes need to be long enough so that they go past the edge of the rim--otherwise, the nipple will be in tension between the rim and the threads of the spoke, instead of in compression between the end of spoke threads and the rim. Too short and the nipples will be prone to failure. If you're anywhere near the borderline at the very least use brass nipples as they survive being in tension better-aluminum nipples will almost certainly fail if the spokes are significantly too short.
I just checked and they are flush reaching the end of the threads on the nipples with a few spikes extending past. Is it possible to get longer spoke nipples to make up the difference or no?

Regarding the current spoke nipples, the build used dt Swiss stainless steel spokes & spoke nipples.


Originally Posted by dsaul
It seems like it would make more sense to just get a new wheelset with the thru axle hubs, unless you have some really expensive rims.
The wheelset that I’m converting is 27.5 (650b). The cheapest wheelset that I could find that was 12x100 were the Hunt Wheels which are $359 + tax. I got the replacement hubs for ~$100 and a wheel build for both would be ~$140-150 re-using my current wheels (spokes not factored in if I 100% need new ones).

Last edited by DarKris; 11-05-19 at 06:28 AM.
DarKris is offline  
Old 11-05-19, 06:42 AM
  #5  
Dan Burkhart 
Senior member
 
Dan Burkhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oakville Ontario
Posts: 8,118
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 943 Post(s)
Liked 658 Times in 371 Posts
To calculate the spoke length, you will need the critical dimensions from the new hub. If the hub flange diameter and center to flange dimensions are the same as your old hubs, then the spoke lengths will be the same.
Typically, a difference of 10mm in the center to flange measurement means a 1mm difference in spoke length, so there is some room to fudge there.
Dan Burkhart is offline  
Old 11-05-19, 06:53 AM
  #6  
DarKris
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
DarKris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 619

Bikes: Kona Kahuna DL Drop Bar - Sensah SRX Pro 1x11 (2012 Frame), Giant Toughroad GX 1 - Shimano Road Hydro + SLX 1x10 (2018), Diamondback Sync'r - SRAM NX 1x12 (2020)

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked 97 Times in 54 Posts
Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart
To calculate the spoke length, you will need the critical dimensions from the new hub. If the hub flange diameter and center to flange dimensions are the same as your old hubs, then the spoke lengths will be the same.
Typically, a difference of 10mm in the center to flange measurement means a 1mm difference in spoke length, so there is some room to fudge there.
I did calculate these:



QR Front



TA Front



QR Rear



TA Rear
DarKris is offline  
Old 11-05-19, 11:53 AM
  #7  
cpach
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Mt Shasta, CA, USA
Posts: 2,143

Bikes: Too many. Giant Trance X 29, Surly Midnight Special get the most time.

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 533 Post(s)
Liked 312 Times in 236 Posts
Originally Posted by DarKris
I just checked and they are flush reaching the end of the threads on the nipples with a few spikes extending past. Is it possible to get longer spoke nipples to make up the difference or no?

Regarding the current spoke nipples, the build used dt Swiss stainless steel spokes & spoke nipples.




The wheelset that I’m converting is 27.5 (650b). The cheapest wheelset that I could find that was 12x100 were the Hunt Wheels which are $359 + tax. I got the replacement hubs for ~$100 and a wheel build for both would be ~$140-150 re-using my current wheels (spokes not factored in if I 100% need new ones).
Longer nipples don't make any difference, the issue is if the end of the spoke goes past the rim or not. Your case sounds marginal. Based on what you've described I would not agree to build your wheels with those spokes. Also spokes in even the best built wheels undergo fatigue—if you have some good miles on the wheels it may be a good value in longevity to replace the spokes anyways.

Anyhow for $140-150 your wheel builder should be able to advise you on whether the spokes can be reused confidently.
cpach is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.