fooferdoggie 

I have this guy on my commuter. https://smile.amazon.com/Selle-Royal...1741818&sr=8-7 the bars are about level with the seat. my commutes are 1/2 hour each way. I got used to the saddle for the most part longer rides on weekends would hurt so I got some padded shorts. but it would be nice to even have a little softer saddle. I am looking at the same brand. I need a saddle that is flat lengthwise as it needs al little up tilt to keep me from sliding forward. but it is tricky to get enough but not dig into my crotch. after trying several the one that came with my bike has worked the best. I have lost a lot of weight and my butt has lost its padding so it even hurts to sit on hard chairs so I may be wasting my time. I have only found a couple of saddles that may be a tiny bit sifter but they had too much curve to them.
https://smile.amazon.com/Selle-Royal...1741111&sr=8-8

cb400bill

Can you post a recent, full drive side picture of your bike?

alo

The most comfortable saddles are the large ones. They support over a larger area. I suggest you try a large one.

canklecat

Check out some saddles that use Lycra stretched over progressive density foam. I used an older one from Bell for years on a hybrid so I wouldn't need padded shorts. It was comfortable wearing any kind of clothing, including on longer rides up to 40+ miles. The saddle serves the same purpose as padded shorts -- padding and wicking perspiration away from the body.

Serfas still makes this kind of saddle in the Tailbones lineup and the Dual Density saddle.

Width will depend on your sitbones and whether you sit upright or leaning forward. On my road bikes I prefer fairly narrow, firm saddles, around 130mm, and wear padded shorts. But I prefer saddles a little wider -- usually 145, but as wide as 160 -- and either padded or springy on my hybrids.

fooferdoggie 

I have but they are actually far harder then the one I have. Plus they are not flat so they dig into my crotch. if I tilt them and if I don't I just slide forward.

fooferdoggie 

wolfchild

Fabric Scoop saddles are very comfortable and well made...They make different types of saddles for different riding positions. They make larger saddles for more upright riding position and narrower firmer saddles for more lean forward riding position and flat narrow saddles for aggressive riding position ...It can take some time and several rides and adjustments before your fit is dialed in perfectly.

Miele Man

An image taken at eye-level of the bike saddle/handlebar height and with the front wheel inline with the rear wheel (handlebar not turned at all) will be a big help in us seeing how the bike actually looks. If you could get someone to take a side-on image of you on the bike in your riding position (again with the two wheels inline with each other) we would have a lot better idea of your possible needs.

Cheers

fooferdoggie 

I have tried a few of the better wider saddles but they were too hard and they also had too much curve to them. Would slide forward in just a few minutes and if I tilted them up enough to stay in place then my crotch was gouged. my sit bones hurt a lot on them.
my sit bones like a really soft saddle and thats the hardest part. my crotch needs flat saddle to keep the pressure off. I found a nice saddle that almost worked but it had a bit to much side to side curve and that caused me to sit lower and it dug into my crotch. Get boils on the inside of my thighs if the saddle is not right. the one I have now will only make my boil (or whatever it is) puff up if the ride is over 20 miles at once without padded shorts or if I tip it down one notch.
part of the problem is I have lost a lot of weight in the last year but my thighs are thinning but the skin sags now so I think it is rubbing a lot . I have one good bike store that must have 40 different saddles and I only found 2 that are softer then what I have but the both have too much curve to them. I think the lack of padding on my sit bones is my biggest problem. always as I loose weight my sit bones become tender to sitting on anything firm. chairs and benches can hurt.

fooferdoggie 

here are the pics.

canklecat

I dunno what that Lego contraption is on the rear rack but... it's awesome.

fooferdoggie 

I have fun with it I change the scene often. It just hold tools and a tube but it looks cooler then a seat bag. I was looking at this saddle it seems about the same firmness or maybe a bit harder.

veganbikes

What I would do is find your local fitter or a shop with a sit bone measuring device and get measured and then look at some saddles in that width. Generally for a good saddle you want something supportive and not heavily padded. The problem with the padding is you will sink in and create pressure points. It sounds like what might help out is a saddle with a bit more flex to it and maybe something with a cut out. However you might also just have the saddle in the wrong spot (too far forward or back and angled wrong) and your seatpost could be too high or too low. That is something a good fitter can help work out assuming you are willing and able to pedal on a trainer or fit bike (some e-bike clients are not willing to actually pedal even with zero resistance on the trainer). If you are in Oregon and can make it to River City Bicycles they do have a Retül fitter on staff and that will help a great deal but there might be other fitters closer to you. Just try to go with a dynamic fitter (doing adjustments in realtime while riding typically using 3d motion capture) rather than a static fitter (adjustments done with you not riding typically in odd positions)

A lot of people go around uncomfortable running through saddle after saddle after saddle or using other devices to attempt to add comfort when that was never the case it was purely down to everything not being adjusted right by someone who knows what they are doing. Also sometimes you think "Well I am pretty comfortable" but after getting a fit and some things my fitter recommended I can say without question I am way more comfortable than I could have imagined.

Also just FYI your drive side would be the side your gears and chain or belt are on which on 99% of bikes will be the right side. If you are taking a proper photo you want to align your valves (where you put air in) at 12 o'clock front and rear and put the crank in the 3 o'clock position. You also want to frame your bike well so everything is nice and visible and looks good. Show your bike off and make it sexy. Also more photos of the lego contraption that intrigues me.

canklecat

If you try that saddle please update this thread with your impressions. My nearest LBS stocks those. It's primarily a serious roadie shop but they also stock a few items for hybrids, cruisers and ebikes. One of their longtime employees said their Serfas saddles are very popular. Everything else is Fizik and similar stuff for roadies.

fooferdoggie 

my shop is about 3 blocks from river city. I don't know if they do the fitting or not there anymore I can see. I have been playing with the saddle position over the last couple months. I had to have the tilt to keep from sliding forward. that was a big battle. but I have not played with the saddle position front to back sense then I will do that. my sit bones are not really bad on this saddle. they hurt less then anything I have tried. my sit bones hurt sitting on a firm chair. they hurt when I had a long wheel recumbent that was upright. that had a nice padded seat. the saddle is just a l little bit of a problem on my crotch and if I get rid of any of the tilt it makes my boil on my thigh puff up or if I ride more then 15 miles at a time without padded shorts.
I think if I could get a saddle like the one I have with a cutout it would be great. but I have not found any that are as flat as this one or with the same softness.
with my weight loss my butt is almost gone with saggy skin and my thighs are getting there they have a lot of saggy skin.
I think this saddle I have is the best I have found if I could finds one with a cutout just like it that would do it. but so far I have not.
I made this lego box for my first e bike I needed a chain to lock it. People loved the box and I had fun adding stuff to the top. So I put it on this bike for my tools and tire. sorry for the one poor picture my bill wife had to take it and it was a bit off. usually she actually does better on pics. I will post the lego pics later for some reason the uploads are getting stuck

fooferdoggie 

I had already ordered the same brand and model with a cutout off of amazon. that one won't get here till later next week. not sure if I want to keep trying saddles my sit bones suffer for a few days each time I try.

fooferdoggie 

here are a couple of pics of my lego box

Fredo_Adagio

I saw a recommendation in a touring bike video for a Brooks C17. I put the C17 Carved on one of my road bikes and a C15 Carved on another. They are okay, but the Brooks saddles require some break-in time.

I have a friend who swears by the original Brooks B17 model, which is genuine leather, is fairly heavy, and again requires some break-in time.

I have another friend who swears by the Selle Anatomica. It is claimed that no break-in time is required. I recently put one on my Trek 520 and am reasonably satisfied with it so far.

I have a Kestrel Talon X Road with aerobars and have been experimenting with an ISM PN 1.1, which is a devilish looking thing, but it is reasonably comfortable for a time trial position. The key is to position it so that the boys hang in front of the nose. It probably wouldn't be suitable for a more upright position.

I'm including a photo of the Selle Anatomica below.

fooferdoggie 

I am also putting 185 on that saddle with less butt then I used to have. dropping the bars has helped. but I cant go lower or it puts too much weight on the heel of my hands and that triggers my carpel tunnel. no way I could handle a hard saddle I would be in agony.

Wilfred Laurier

In the picture where you are astride the bike, it looks like your saddle it to low. Hard to tell for sure, but generally, on any upright bike, if the saddle is at the right height, you will be just able to touch the ground with your toes when your legs are fully extended.. The picture looks like your knees are bent with feet on the ground.

The goal with saddle height adjustment is to have your leg almost fully extended when the ball of your foot is on the pedal and the pedal is at BDC. Since there is always some distance between the pedal and the ground, you will not be able to put your feet flat on the ground when on the saddle.

Adjusting the saddle to the correct height will cause your weight to sit differently on the saddle.

Phil_gretz

Fizik CX Pave is what you want. It matches the profile of your pictured saddle.

c_m_shooter

If your bars are near saddle height, get a Brooks B17. The break in time is exagerated. A good half day ride in the rain will do it. You won't need padded shorts any more either.

fooferdoggie 

looks like it is history. but I will search around. I tried moving the saddle back a little bit and nope instant pain plus I started sliding forward again.

fooferdoggie 

first too much curve it would dig in with any up tilt. but man I cant even sit on a firm chair without pain. I need soft.

c_m_shooter

How long have you been riding? I thought the same thing when I started riding roads. I was strictly a mountain biker for years, so the saddle was never used to sit on, just more of a reference. I went through a few "soft" saddles and none were working. The first club ride I went on I met a guy who had just got back from a ride from Texas to Alaska. He rode a B-17, that was enough to get me to try it. I put them on every bike first thing now, it's been 18 years.