hokiefyd 

Yes, these are usually pretty good values used. The higher you go up in the portfolio, the better the tubing becomes. The 700 (base model) is mostly high-tensile steel, and the 750 (top model) is mostly double-butted chrome-molybdenum steel. I can directly compare my 750 with a similar era cheap MTB that I have (my first "big boy" bike that I'll probably never sell) and the ride quality of the 750 is noticeably nicer. But this is typically not reflected in the used market -- if you come across a 730 or a 750 model, it's usually a pretty good buy because they're really good frames at "1990s steel bike" prices (read: low).

Depending on what you mean by "sloping top tube", yes. I originally thought you meant something like a women's frame, and some were available in that style. But even with the traditional frame, the top tube will have a downward slope to it as the seat tube comes shorter (with smaller frames).

rseeker

For anyone in the South Carolina area, here's a 730 with the rack mount on the fork and (I think) the System 1 stem and bars like a 750 has. I should probably go buy this for spare parts and the upgrades since I didn't get the front rack mount but I won't because I have holiday plans. It's great to see these still in circulation though.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...2620372675471/

hokiefyd 

Yeah, if the condition is as good in person as it appears in the photograph, then I think 65 bucks is a great deal for that.

Tophero1

Hi all.

I am building a multitrack.

i was wondering if anyone has any opinions on the best drop bars for someone who spends 95% of my time on the hoods for this bike.

i know the bike runs long so I figured experience
of others might help here.
any tips or recommendations would be very much appreciated!

im coming over from a recently stolen Surly Cross Check / 56. Fit me perfectly.

im always between sizes on bikes, but tend to always lean to the bigger size I’m between. So as a touch over 5’11 with long ish legs, I am shopping for a 21”.

thank you in advance for all advice!

Phamilton

I’m 6’ with a 34” cycling inseam. This is my 23” 700 MT

https://www.bikeforums.net/20802283-post160.html

The 100mm riser stem put the reach too far for me. On a road frame I typically will use a 100mm stem. Before I bought my touring bike to use for my commuter, I settled on a 60mm road stem for the MT and hardly ever used the drops. The TT is much lower on a 21” frame, so depending on your bar height preference you may need a riser stem.

I used a vintage bar with long reach and deep drops which exacerbated the reach problem.

The only advantages the MT has over my touring bike is fitting 38mm tires under the fenders as opposed to 35, and 700c wheels over 27” (greater available tire selection).

Good luck and have fun!

Tophero1

Also... that is one slick looking Multitrack my friend! I love what you did with it!

Desi72

I just scored a 1999 720 Multitrack for $29. Will post pics shortly. Needs some rust clean up on the freewheel and rear derailleur, but rides nice and smooth. Definitely need to change handlebars to a straight bar. Has cruiser style handlebar which I just can't stand

Phamilton

Additional thoughts on drop bars on a hybrid/mtb, you’ll have to scroll past the first part of the post or read through it. I like Grant Petersen, anyway.

https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/peekin...o-22-late-june

Phamilton

Originally I had my 700 MT set up with drop bars for my 24 mile RT mostly rural work commute. I bought a touring bike that serves that purpose better so I put flat bars back on my MT. Instead of putting the stock riser bar back on, I swapped bars instead with a low-rise bar with more sweep that was on my wife’s bike. Also installed a giant handlebar basket from the parts bin that fits two full paper grocery bags or my backpack with laptop. This bike is better for in-town riding at low speeds, trails and sidewalks and stuff. It’s actually perfect for it. I might even put the fenders back on it. I was going to give it to my brother but he wasn’t crazy about it. Little big for him anyway ;-)

rseeker

For my 1994 Trek 730, anyone know what tools I'll need to get into the bottom bracket? The cranks need a hex wrench, 10mm is too big, 8mm is probably it but it's on the loose-fitting side and I don't have a 9mm to try. Once I get past the cranks I have no idea what I'll find.

I have new tires on now (not shown in the picture). The freehub lock ring tool should arrive today or Monday. Front hub has been serviced (no visible wear) but I still have to get into the headset, BB and rear.

DorkDisk

8mm hex is a standard, but it could be something else. Once you remove the crank bolts, you remove the arms with a cotterless crank puller (CCP-1/22)

Then you need a BBT-2/22 for the BB. Turn towards the rear to tighten; tool has flats and socket for leverage (not provided)



Cartridge BBs are meant to be thrown away. There is a way to open them up but its not worth it IMO. Hope this helps

rseeker

Yes, thank you.

It will likely be donating its body to science.

hokiefyd 

It will very likely be an 8mm internal hex for the crank arms. Be careful with the bottom bracket. There existed some in the 1990s that actually inserted from the non-drive side. I have one from a mid-90s Motiv MTB. It's a Shimano CS-100 or something like that as I recall. The threads are still the same (righty-tighty on the non-drive side, and lefty-tighty on the drive side), but the main cartridge may or may not come out on the side you expect it to.

rseeker

OK, I'll watch for that, thanks very much.

I assume the crank bolts (the 8mm hex) are normally threaded, both sides righty-tighty, is that right?

katsup

Yes.

rseeker

Would you expect the CWP-7 to serve?

The threading of the outer body into the crank seems to match. The probe or inner body or whatever you call it that extends to push against the spindle does seem to fit that space.

https://www.parktool.com/product/uni...d-cranks-cwp-7

"The universal design of the CWP-7 has a rotating tip pressed into each end of the tool (11.3mm and 16.3mm) so it will remove both square taper and splined (ISIS Drive™, Octalink®) crank arms. The CWP-7 is made for the 22 x 1mm threading in the common cranks."

DorkDisk

Yes, that works just as well. It just lacks the built in lever.

stuman74

My wife's sister gave her this Multi-Track 700 about 5 years ago (I think it's a 1994?) and am looking to sell it off since I got my wife a FX.

Any ballpark idea what is a fair local listing price on Craigslist? Everything is original except for the tires that I put on a few years back. Thanks!

rseeker

Hi,

What part of the country are you in?

Some of us Multi-Track enthusiasts would prefer the idea of selling it on, as in giving it a good home.

katsup

~$100 in my market if everything is working properly. The 700 was the lowest model available.

stuman74

Thanks for the comments. I'm in Chicago NW suburbs.

Hopefully someone that can still get some good use out of it will make an offer. I thought about restoring it, but honestly don't think it's worth the investment. How much were these brand new back in the day? $200-$300 maybe?

hokiefyd 

Trek's 1995 catalog lists the MultiTrack Sport models (730 and 750) as between $425 and $750, and the MultiTrack Recreational models (700 and 720) as between $225 and $350.

So, yeah, a base model 700 would have probably retailed for $225. I live in western Virginia, but I keep eyes on the Washington DC market, and I think $100-150 would be a fair asking price for your bike, assuming all in tune, good rubber, etc.

ja1124

It does not look like it needs restoring. It appears to have been very well kept. I would ask $100 if I wanted it gone today. Include the frame size in your ad so that anyone who is on the lookout for one (a quality steel-framed bike with this geometry in their size) can find it. They don't come up for sale all that often in my area.

ja1124

I bought my 1995 Multitrack 700 from a bike shop and paid $300 before tax.

hokiefyd 

That's an interesting rear brake actuator on that low-step 700 frame. I just assumed it was a cable pulley wheel, but it looks instead like some sort of rocker arm. The cable from the brake lever pulls it down from below and the rear rocks upward and pulls the brake straddle cable. That's pretty neat.