Red Austro Daimler Build
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Lovely bike, and a very classy ride.
Causes me to regret all over again the sale of my AD Olympian when I moved 11 years ago. I did have too many bikes and needed a manageable number for my move, but a nice Austro Daimler is always worthwhile. Don
Causes me to regret all over again the sale of my AD Olympian when I moved 11 years ago. I did have too many bikes and needed a manageable number for my move, but a nice Austro Daimler is always worthwhile. Don
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What year was your Olympian? Am only familiar with the '78.
Sorry to read you missed out on the argenta latinate star. It was just o'er me back fence. Was it a model 74 or a model 75? My state had a distributor for the badge for but a brief time in the early seventies.
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Don't really know year of the AD Olympian. Only had it for a year or 2. Got it at end of Seattle swap meet for cheap $$.
It was a great rider with excellent condition Brooks Pro saddle. Nice, but really a mid level 531 framed bike, Nervar crankset. Here is one of the few pics I found. Of the 4 bikes shown, only the red Grand Jubile remains now. Don
It was a great rider with excellent condition Brooks Pro saddle. Nice, but really a mid level 531 framed bike, Nervar crankset. Here is one of the few pics I found. Of the 4 bikes shown, only the red Grand Jubile remains now. Don
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Don't really know year of the AD Olympian. Only had it for a year or 2. Got it at end of Seattle swap meet for cheap $$.
It was a great rider with excellent condition Brooks Pro saddle. Nice, but really a mid level 531 framed bike, Nervar crankset. Here is one of the few pics I found. Of the 4 bikes shown, only the red Grand Jubile remains now. Don
It was a great rider with excellent condition Brooks Pro saddle. Nice, but really a mid level 531 framed bike, Nervar crankset. Here is one of the few pics I found. Of the 4 bikes shown, only the red Grand Jubile remains now. Don
Thank you, colour and chainset are what I recall from the '78.
Suspect cycle's gear and brake sets may have been changed.
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wrt identification -
here is the catalogue page for the 1978 model Ultima. its frame appears identical to your bicycle save that the fork crown bears the A-D logo where yours is plain.
kitting as shown in image, and described in text, is Campag Super Record group.
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wrt identification -
here is the catalogue page for the 1978 model Ultima. its frame appears identical to your bicycle save that the fork crown bears the A-D logo where yours is plain.
kitting as shown in image, and described in text, is Campag Super Record group.
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#31
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Don't really know year of the AD Olympian. Only had it for a year or 2. Got it at end of Seattle swap meet for cheap $$.
It was a great rider with excellent condition Brooks Pro saddle. Nice, but really a mid level 531 framed bike, Nervar crankset. Here is one of the few pics I found. Of the 4 bikes shown, only the red Grand Jubile remains now. Don
It was a great rider with excellent condition Brooks Pro saddle. Nice, but really a mid level 531 framed bike, Nervar crankset. Here is one of the few pics I found. Of the 4 bikes shown, only the red Grand Jubile remains now. Don
*
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Don't really know year of the AD Olympian. Only had it for a year or 2. Got it at end of Seattle swap meet for cheap $$.
It was a great rider with excellent condition Brooks Pro saddle. Nice, but really a mid level 531 framed bike, Nervar crankset. Here is one of the few pics I found. Of the 4 bikes shown, only the red Grand Jubile remains now. Don
It was a great rider with excellent condition Brooks Pro saddle. Nice, but really a mid level 531 framed bike, Nervar crankset. Here is one of the few pics I found. Of the 4 bikes shown, only the red Grand Jubile remains now. Don
Hello Don,
Thanks very much for the image.
Found this catalogue page from the manufacturer for the 1981 model year.
Kitting shown & described is how I recall the example seen at me local. May have been off on the year. Have never known the model years for the Olympian.
Can you recall if your example wore the Selle San Marco GS saddle pillar?
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dropouts
I don't believe you're correct. I was in the bike business from 1974 through 1994 . . . As best as I can remember, the standard geometry dropout was used by many builders well into the 1980's. Vertical dropouts were used primarily by the boutique builders, and the move to shorter dropouts in the broader market was sporadic and variable.
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I don't believe you're correct. I was in the bike business from 1974 through 1994 . . . As best as I can remember, the standard geometry dropout was used by many builders well into the 1980's. Vertical dropouts were used primarily by the boutique builders, and the move to shorter dropouts in the broader market was sporadic and variable.
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Today was a good day. I was able to remove the seat post, stem and pedals. Nothing is hopelessly stuck. The stem appears to be your basic Cinelli 1a with a 26.4 clamp.
This is one crazy paint job. It’s like layer after layer, alternating between tan/gold and red.
Evidence of a factory re-paint? It looks like the screws on the dropouts were already installed when they painted the frame red.
Campy tips and dropouts.
This is one crazy paint job. It’s like layer after layer, alternating between tan/gold and red.
Evidence of a factory re-paint? It looks like the screws on the dropouts were already installed when they painted the frame red.
Campy tips and dropouts.
Last edited by AlmostGreenGuy; 07-01-18 at 09:26 PM.
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Was a bit alarmed when saw the hack saw resting atop the tool pile on the tray of the stand.
Then realised it may have been necessary to remove that Scott thingy!
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Was a bit alarmed when saw the hack saw resting atop the tool pile on the tray of the stand.
Then realised it may have been necessary to remove that Scott thingy!
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#37
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Yep. Had to hack saw the aero bar to remove it. The mad scientist who installed the handlebar was a maniac. The brake levers actually bottomed out on the bar when squeezed, so the hex screw to loosen the adjuster couldn't be reached. He apparently tightened down the hoods as far onto the bar as he could, and then bashed them with a hammer to move them to where he needed them. Then he wrapped everything with a mile of electrical tape to keep it from slipping. Uggghhhhh......
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Those paint layers are interesting. Mine has a layer of gold below the red but if it has alternating layers like yours I have seen evidence of it. I have noticed that the color can change its shade dramatically depending on the lighting conditions.
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#39
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More progress tonight. I did quite a bit of cleaning, and managed to pull the cranks without issue.
I found a letter “F” under the bottom bracket shell, near the serial number, which I thought would mean that the bottom bracket is French threaded. But don’t the markings on the bottom bracket mean that it’s English threaded? Either way, the bottom bracket appears to be in excellent working condition.
I found a letter “F” under the bottom bracket shell, near the serial number, which I thought would mean that the bottom bracket is French threaded. But don’t the markings on the bottom bracket mean that it’s English threaded? Either way, the bottom bracket appears to be in excellent working condition.
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The Shimano shifters and derailleur seem to be in good working order.
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But this paint job!!! It’s like they had to chip off 10 layers, just to make the serial number visible.
The original owner must have used this bike for some really rough riding, to put so many digs into all these layers of paint. Dings everywhere. Definitely gold underneath the red.
The original owner must have used this bike for some really rough riding, to put so many digs into all these layers of paint. Dings everywhere. Definitely gold underneath the red.
Last edited by AlmostGreenGuy; 07-03-18 at 07:47 PM.
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It might be worth considering to do a full refinish on that frame, being that it was repainted a few times already. I'll get that thing down to bare metal and do a full paintjob in red again (unless you prefer the original(?) gold?). There's enough sources for AD decals out there to complete the job.
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The replacement handlebar arrived last night. It's nothing too flashy. Just an old Cinelli 60-40 Giro D'Italia, to go with the existing Cinelli 1A stem.
I do have to keep thinking about why I purchased this bike in the first place. I wanted a nice lively racing bike, that didn't look so nice that it would be specifically targeted by thieves when locked up in the city. Something that would fly under the radar. High performance and low bling. In that vain, I think I'll stick with the existing paint job, and make a few touchups. The Cinelli stem and bar are rather ubiquitous for their era, so they shouldn't warrant too much attention. The odd mix of Shimano and Suntour will hopefully be funky enough to keep the perceived value down to a minimum. So I'll continue with the rebuild, but just enough to make it very functional. If I find a better beater at some point, than I'll go full force with this bike, and give it a repaint and add a good dose of Campy components.
What's left to be determined is:
I do have to keep thinking about why I purchased this bike in the first place. I wanted a nice lively racing bike, that didn't look so nice that it would be specifically targeted by thieves when locked up in the city. Something that would fly under the radar. High performance and low bling. In that vain, I think I'll stick with the existing paint job, and make a few touchups. The Cinelli stem and bar are rather ubiquitous for their era, so they shouldn't warrant too much attention. The odd mix of Shimano and Suntour will hopefully be funky enough to keep the perceived value down to a minimum. So I'll continue with the rebuild, but just enough to make it very functional. If I find a better beater at some point, than I'll go full force with this bike, and give it a repaint and add a good dose of Campy components.
What's left to be determined is:
- Can I live with the crazy "half step plus granny" chainring configuration. I have no clue what this will feel like, but I'm quite used to a basic ten-speed. If I were to go to a more basic ten-speed setup, what would I have to do to fit it where where 3 chainrings were previously?
- The Suntour LePree is really funky. And I have to admit that I'm thoroughly in love with the Suntour Cyclone GT on my Motobecane. But I'll have to wait and see how the LePree actually performs.
- I haven't even touched the Mavic wheels that are ridiculously out of true. I'm praying that I can save them.
- Getting the rear wheel out of the frame was quite an effort. It was pretty much jammed into the frame, and not easy to remove from the drive side dropout. It makes we wonder if the wheel is actually too wide for the frame, and it was forced into place. I'm a little out of my depth here. How do I know what width wheel I should be using, and how exactly do I measure it?
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4. Getting the rear wheel out of the frame was quite an effort. It was pretty much jammed into the frame, and not easy to remove from the drive side dropout. It makes we wonder if the wheel is actually too wide for the frame, and it was forced into place. I'm a little out of my depth here. How do I know what width wheel I should be using, and how exactly do I measure it?
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very minor tip -
in the closeup images of the drive side dropout it appears that the axle slot may be closed down ever so slightly. the front looks a whisker shorter in height than the rear. this could be a photographic effect or just me auld visual receptors. : ^ \
try measuring the height of the slot at two or three points.
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very minor tip -
in the closeup images of the drive side dropout it appears that the axle slot may be closed down ever so slightly. the front looks a whisker shorter in height than the rear. this could be a photographic effect or just me auld visual receptors. : ^ \
try measuring the height of the slot at two or three points.
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#46
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very minor tip -
in the closeup images of the drive side dropout it appears that the axle slot may be closed down ever so slightly. the front looks a whisker shorter in height than the rear. this could be a photographic effect or just me auld visual receptors. : ^ \
try measuring the height of the slot at two or three points.
-----
very minor tip -
in the closeup images of the drive side dropout it appears that the axle slot may be closed down ever so slightly. the front looks a whisker shorter in height than the rear. this could be a photographic effect or just me auld visual receptors. : ^ \
try measuring the height of the slot at two or three points.
-----
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very minor tip -
in the closeup images of the drive side dropout it appears that the axle slot may be closed down ever so slightly. the front looks a whisker shorter in height than the rear. this could be a photographic effect or just me auld visual receptors. : ^ \
try measuring the height of the slot at two or three points.
-----
very minor tip -
in the closeup images of the drive side dropout it appears that the axle slot may be closed down ever so slightly. the front looks a whisker shorter in height than the rear. this could be a photographic effect or just me auld visual receptors. : ^ \
try measuring the height of the slot at two or three points.
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So is it even possible to open up the driveside dropout a bit? File it down to fit? Or is it safer just to live with it being kind of hard to get the wheel in and out?
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Do not file it down. The DO steel is ductile enough to be bent back. Some suggest using the hole at the handle of an apptopriate size adjustable wrench over the lower end of the slot to bend it open. Just do it carefully and take it easy with repeated measurements so you do not go over the amount of bending you will need and you do not damage the brazed connections to the stays....
1mm shouldn't be too hard to bend out...
1mm shouldn't be too hard to bend out...
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But this paint job!!! It’s like they had to chip off 10 layers, just to make the serial number visible.
The original owner must have used this bike for some really rough riding, to put so many digs into all these layers of paint. Dings everywhere. Definitely gold underneath the red.
The original owner must have used this bike for some really rough riding, to put so many digs into all these layers of paint. Dings everywhere. Definitely gold underneath the red.
The chip away serial number is interesting, so I went to my photo album and it seems I've got something similar, though not quite as dramatic as yours.
Also, judging by the serial numbers it's no wonder our bikes are twins. I wonder if the 'S' and the '4' could be manufacturing date codes.
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The S and 4 are a total mystery to me.