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Schwinn Varsity and Collegiate Sport upgrades

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Schwinn Varsity and Collegiate Sport upgrades

Old 09-08-20, 10:45 PM
  #26  
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As many others have already commented, you don't need to do much as these old Schwinns are super durable and great riding bicycles IF YOU CAN ACCEPT THEIR HEAVY WEIGHT AND SLOW NATURE!

Trying to CHANGE OR UPGRADE THEM IS LIKE TRYING TO TURN A 1972 FORD F150 pickup truck INTO A SPORTSCAR!!! Don't try!!! Just enjoy them for what they do great and that is an extremely comfortable but slow ride and durability that is unsurpassed in the case of 1970 and later Collegiates & 5 speed SUBURBANS. The Varsity has one major weakness compared to the 1970 and later Collegiate & 5 speed Suburban..................that weakeness is the hunk of junk HURET ALLVIT rear derailleur which is garbage compared to anything from SHIMANO or SUNTOUR!!!

This is the ONLY upgrade that will really help as these old SCHWINNS were really well made..........................so for all VARSITY models, excepting those that were built on days in the seventies when the Chicago factory productrion line was out of ALLVITs and substititued the Shimano built GT-100 (1970-1973) or the Shimano built GT-120 (1974-1977) from the five speed Collegiate/five speed Suburban......................so for all VARSITY models except those, YOU NEED TO Junk the ALLVIT and instead install a Japanese rear derailleur made by SUNTOUR or SHIMANO...................................very simple and low cost........and it makes the VARSITY totally bombproof and unbreakeable..............................just don't try riding in the rain downhill and you might realize something about UN-BRAKE-ABLE!!

The original Chrome STEEL WHEELS are fine and you will have adequate braking as long as you do not ride in the rain. WET STEEL RIMS WILL REQUIRE SUBSTANTIALLY LONGER STOPPING DISTANCES........translation is that you won't stop in time if you're already exceeding 12mph in WET conditions!!!

The 1967 and later VARSITY with the Schwinn TwinStik (s) stem shifters and the 52/39 front crankwheels are SIGNIFICANTLY BETTER than earlier VARSITY models.
Schwinn for the 1966 model year for all bicycles, increased the THICKNESS and STRENGTH of the Headtube, thus requiring a slightly thinner diameter stem. 1966 and later Schwinn stems WILL NOT interchange with 1965 and earlier Schwinn stems which are common'industry standard'.

The 1970 and later COLLEGIATE and the five speed SUBURBAN are the BEST and MOST DURABLE ELECTROFORGED SCHWINNS EVER BUILT........much much better than the VARSITY , CONTINENTAL, or 10 speed SUBURBAN, and much better than the 1964-1969 Collegiate.

The MODEL J freewheel of the (1970 - 1977) Collegiate and five speed Suburban 32-26-21-17-14
The MODEL F freewheel of VARSITY-CONTINENTAL-10speedSUBURBAN and 1964-1969 Collegiate 28-24-20-16-14
If you remember nothing else.......Japanese engineering = great and European engineering = not so good
F denotes France and J denotes Japan
THE ONLY THING THAT IS REALLY CRAP THAT THE EUROPEANS NEVER CAME CLOSE TO THE QUALITY OF THE JAPANESE is the Rear Derailleur when discussing bicycles. Otherwise, the Europeans did a very fine job. The Japanese came in and essentially copied the best European rear derailleur design and re-designed it just enough that the manufacturing was better and the materials employed would last and tolerances, workmanship, and functionality was vastly improved.


Customize your old vintage Schwinn however you wish but there is an old saying about a fool and his money. I am gonna say that you would be a dumb azz if you opt to install an expensive 3 piece crank and superlightweight components and wheels and attempt to do away with friction shifting.. THOSE CHANGES WILL PROBABLY MAKE THE VARSITY LESS DURABLE AND WILL NOT IMPROVE THE RIDE OF THE BIKE, AND CERTAINLY WILL NOT LIGHTEN THE BICYCLE ENOUGH TO MAKE IT A SPORTING SPEED DEMON!! As they say you will be peas ing in the wind, and wasting your time and money. Too often, many doofusses that are too afraid to be seen riding such a simple and low-tech Schwinn because of the stigma of electroforged, unsophisticated, bicycle rider as opposed to serious "cyclist", will try to add components that don't do a damn thing but say hey look I've upgraded so now you can tell the bike apart from those folks who might own them and reside in a C10 van down by the river or in the Walmart parking lot.

Sure, you can swap the better freewheel from the seventies era Collegiate/five speed SUBURBAN that will give you the 32 teeth first gear for better hill climbing. Beyond that or fitting an aftermarket seventies era SUNTOUR freewheel with 34 teeth first gear, you need not consider any changes other than the REQUIRED JUNKING OF THE HURET ALLVIT REAR DERAILLEUR. You should junk the ALLVIT even if you make NO CHANGES and keep the stock Model F 28-24-20-16-14 freewheel. WHY? Because the JAPANESE rear derailleurs were massively better than anything European (Huret-Simplex-Campagnolo...it doesn't matter as they are all junk compared to the best from Japan, SUNTOUR & SHIMANO)....... There is a reason that by 1977 that rear derailleurs from Shimano & SUNTOUR had virtually wiped out the European competition....and nearly all quality bikes came fitted with them because they were light years better than the Euro junk. Bike afficianados had known this since at least 1971 or 1972.

Have fun with your SCHWINN!
As they say, STAY THIN, RIDE A SCHWINN.......the extra weight will give you a better workout.
The beauty of an electroforged SCHWINN is the simplicity and bomb-proof durability as well as comfortable ride.
Nothing is nearly as durable! You won't find anything that is more user friendly if you want to Do It Yourself. Yes, the installation of new tires on the COLLEGIATES and other 26" (597mm) schwinns is rather difficult for the novice to seat them properly. This was difficult 55 years ago, so it has nothing to do with the KENDA tires of today. The 597mm 26 x 1 3/8 37-597mm KENDA tires are great tires..........................the BLACKWALL version will outlast the GUMWALL version but no worries because you'll get years of good service from even the GUMWALLS........................be sure to buy quality thorn resistant heavy duty tubes.........................DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE thin tubes and TIRE LINERS BECAUSE THAT IS A VERY POOR SUBSTITUTE!! You must remember that weight is not a bad thing when you do get unmatched durability and reliability.

THERE IS NO REASON ON EARTH TO CHANGE YOUR VARSITY FROM ITS 27" 32-630mm wheels BECAUSE THERE ARE MULTIPLE SUPPLIERS OF ADEQUATE TIRES. The Varsity isn't a speed demon flyer so any NEW tire, even the lowest cost economy tires will be adequate. You do have several 27" tires that are more than great considering the VARSITY cannot come close to takingthose tires to their limits.

KOOL STOP brake pads will provide the best potential wet stopping, and dry too....................but if you're not gonna ride in the rain or wet, any new fresh decent brake pad will be excellent, even if it costs only $2.

Customize it with your choice of seat, your choice of pedals, and if you'd like to ride UPRIGHT, install cruiser-Northroads handlebars like SCHWINN 7881 bars or Velo orange tourist, or something salvaged from anything you want or perhaps something WALD makes.
Laugh about it all you want to but the old Chicago built electroforged SCHWINNs are outstanding bicycles and although Schwinn called them "lightweights", they were definitely not lightweights when compared to the competition of their day, but they were more durable and un-breakeable than anything else then or now. If you don't mind the weight and comfortable but slow nature of them, there is perhaps no better bicycle around for durability. The simplicity and easy DIY servicing is just another reason why they are great bicycles.
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Old 09-08-20, 11:16 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Vintage Schwinn
The 1970 and later COLLEGIATE and the five speed SUBURBAN are the BEST and MOST DURABLE ELECTROFORGED SCHWINNS EVER BUILT........much much better than the VARSITY , CONTINENTAL, or 10 speed SUBURBAN, and much better than the 1964-1969 Collegiate.
Framesets on all of these are more or less identical with exception to cable guides. I'd be interested to hear how the first two are superior.

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Old 09-09-20, 12:19 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by branko_76
Those bikes look like they are in great shape, even the tires look good. I wouldn't change anything, Schwinn's of that era were built to last.
There's several of us here who appreciate the Varsities & Continentals for their historical place in US cycling and their durability and quality. I also like keeping my '75 Continental just as it came off the showroom floor including the steel rims. I have changed out the seat, but otherwise it's original stock and it's a blast to ride.
My story https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...st-39-lbs.html

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Old 09-09-20, 04:15 AM
  #29  
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Among the 25 or so bikes we have in our stable, the gf and I recently acquired a matching set of his/hers 1971 orange Varsities complete with speedometers and generator lights, mine also has the original seat bag. I’m not great at accurately rating condition but they are in fine shape to my eye, obviously stored indoors their entire life.

They were bought in 71 by a couple and then sold to another couple about 5 years ago who insisted they go to yet another couple and that’s how we got them. Without a doubt they are the heaviest bikes we own and maybe the heaviest I’ve ever picked up but they are a sheer joy to spin around on shorter (sub 20) rides. I don’t expect them to do what they’re not built for and I don’t get disappointed.

Nostalgia plays a huge part in why I connect with these bikes as I had an Orange Krate as a kid and these bikes are the same color from the same year. That might not be much of a reason to own them for most folks but it is for me. I have much, much faster and lighter bikes but these old tanks fit a need (want?) for me. Wouldn’t change a thing on them.
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Old 09-09-20, 07:14 AM
  #30  
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https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...l-project.html

QLC2Ckg5uLvGxL4lUbAUdGFmj6ewk66G6eSflITih7M-2048x1536 by Richard Mozzarella, on Flickr

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20190105_133655 by Richard Mozzarella, on Flickr
In this pic, you can see I already nixed the mountain crankset in favor of a more road friendly polished 30-54 Ultegra. I have since ditched the rack, and fenders; Swapped out the fork for a canti version with a lighter handling 50mm of rake. That also meant installing non-dynamo/non-disc front wheel; The mountain derailleur & cassette is now gone in favor of an Ultegra rear derailleur/Edco Monoblock cassette, AbsoluteBlack chainrings, & set the bike up tubeless with 700x25 Grand Prix 5000 tires.

All told, all added up, all in over the last 4 years or so, between the 2 above threads and subsequent changes to final configuration, as it stands today, I'm in probably about $5000 for the 2 bikes.
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Old 09-09-20, 08:01 AM
  #31  
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From such a simple question to start this off, this is turning out to be a great thread. The Schwinn electro-forged frames are polarizing. Although I am of the mind to keep them close to the way they came, it is also interesting to see how far these can go with examples like base2 above.

funsizes keep us posted with what you going to do and include pictures.
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Old 09-09-20, 10:32 AM
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Knee-action, what's not to like?

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Old 09-09-20, 11:09 AM
  #33  
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I had a Huret Allvit on my French built Astra in the 70's. It shifted OK. I guess that it shifted OK compared to the derailleurs at the time. Once I get my Schwinn Continental together I am eager to try the Huret Allvit again. I am sure that more modern derailleurs shift better and are lighter as well.

Last night I saw a video of C.S. Hirose with a two cable Huret Allvit. I don't know how much that would have improved shifting performance. For a guy that likes to tinker and figure things out on his own, this might have been an exercise that was the first step to something more interesting in the next steps.

I have to admit that it is an easy swap to go with a Shimano or Suntour derailleur especially on the rear. The front probably shifts well and it could be difficult to find a derailleur that fits the Varsity's seat tube or to shim it with something solid enough to keep it in place.
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Old 09-09-20, 11:47 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Velo Mule
......
I have to admit that it is an easy swap to go with a Shimano or Suntour derailleur especially on the rear. The front probably shifts well and it could be difficult to find a derailleur that fits the Varsity's seat tube or to shim it with something solid enough to keep it in place.
I frequently see NOS Suntours with 25.4 clamps on Ebay fairly cheap. Usually they're the Sprit model. While searching for an FD for the Traveler I discovered I had a NOS Sprit with matching NOS RD plus 2 Decent used Shimanos. Of course the Traveler had a 28.6 seat tube so I still have them.

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Old 09-09-20, 12:24 PM
  #35  
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Allvit derailleurs shift fine. Does it really matter if it were to shift a couple microseconds faster anyway? It's just a utility bike, meant to get you from point a to point b without breaking.

When they don't shift acceptably it's usually a matter of: chain caked in sludge, bent derailleur hanger, bad initial adjustment, lack of lubrication of the cables, pivots, etc. Any 50 year old bike is going to have at least a few of these problems. Fix all these issues and, like I said, they're fine.

This would be a fine bike(s) to learn bike maintenance on.

A few decades of repair by unit replacement has caused a shift in perspective. It seems to me that a lot of newbies think it's going to be easier to simply bolt a new component on than to do regular maintenance. Many if not most new/modern bike components are not designed to be maintained. Use it till it breaks, then buy a new one. That's why we get such ridiculous notions as buying an old Schwinn, and putting new parts on it to 'fix' it, when all it really needs is basic maintenance and a tune up. Apparently taking mechanical things apart, cleaning them, and putting them back together is scary for the new generation. /
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Old 09-09-20, 01:45 PM
  #36  
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Lots of truth there ^^. So much of the old stuff sat around way more than it was used. More often than not, whenever I have acquired an old Electroforged Schiwnn, all mechanicals were in great shape. Replace the consumables as needed and you have reliable transportation.

These frames excel as upright bikes, in my opinion. I've had many, and the best rider of the bunch was a Varsity with North Road style bars that I took off of an old Huffy. I had it set up as a 1x5 with a Shimano Eagle II rear changer. Campus Green with brown fenders, Brooks B17, cork grips, alloy wheelset from the junkyard, and a thumb shifter. It was a cheap bike, but was solid and totally reliable.
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Old 09-09-20, 05:03 PM
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Judging by the photo, I would say that you could, (if you didn't want to spend a dime), re-use everything, including cables, tubes, brake pads, etc.. Take it completely apart, clean and lube evreything that moves, resurface the brake pads, submerge the tubes in water to find pinholes, flush the cable casings with WD40, etc., etc. and the bike would function as new.

Originally Posted by tpadul
probably not much unless someone is looking for parts or just wants to practice learning how to fix them up. I just bought this 1984 Schwinn World Sport for $10 off Facebook and I’m keeping it and just using it to learn how to take apart and replace old parts and fix it up a little bit. But if you are looking to make a profit off these somehow you probably won’t.
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Old 09-09-20, 09:34 PM
  #38  
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1970 - 1977 COLLEGIATES and Five Speed SUBURBANS ARE SUPERIOR TO Varsities/1964-1969 Collegiates/Ten speed SUBURBANS/CONTINENTALS BECAUSE THEY CAME EQUIPPED WITH Shimano built REAR DERAILLEURS and the MODEL J Freewheel which had shimano's new patented seal which was a massive improvement at that point in time (circa 1968) when Shimano developed it. See BICYCLING magazine MARCH 1970 issue for a technical article that proclaims the GT-100 (shimano built rear derailleur) as being the most durable rear derailleur up to that point in time. Schwinn engineering had SHIMANO build it by taking the great functionality of Shimano's Lark and incorporating Schwinn engineering's requirement of near bomb proof protective bashguard, super durable materials, and a unique cable saver function. Heck yes, it was not light.....if you've ever held a GT-100 in your hands, you know what I mean..............these things don't hardly ever fail as their wheels are steel, although when they do fail it is a result of a spring failure, not anything else... These are superb, rear derailleurs that reliably shift every time. The ALLVIT is a hunk of trash in comparison to the Shimano Lark, Shimano Skylark, Shimano Eagle, any Maeda SUNTOUR unit of the seventies, and to the GT-100 or the GT-120. Obviously everything in the Shimano lineup beyond the basic Lark, Skylark & Eagle was also light years better than any ALLVIT or other Huret product or anything Simplex or Campagnolo offered in the seventies.

So yes, the superior, unbreakable, bomb-proof durable rear derailleurs (GT-100 for 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, and into Feb 1974.................GT-120 for very early 1974 through at least 1977) Yes, the Maeda SUNTOUR rear derailleurs shifted slightly smoother than SHIMANO rear derailleurs did but Shimano was more durable and near bomb-proof. In fact, SHIMANO was very smart and incorporated the Schwinn engineering requirements into their own Lark based rear derailleur........the massive bashguard to protect it and the cable saver function............this essentially evolved into Skylark and Eagle which were installed on to millions of basic ten speeds during the bike boom.......these weren't lightweight rear derailleurs but they were unbreakeable, supremely reliable, and simple to adjust and set up.....their quality was far better than what was being employed by the high-end European ten speeds, even though these Shimano rear derailleurs were fitted to millions of 1972 Kmart ten speeds that sold retail new for $87.95. By 1977 everybody in the world had taken notice that the el-cheapo ten speeds of the early seventies did come with much better rear derailleurs than the European ten speeds that did cost five times as much. Shimano and SUNTOUR slaughtered Huret, Simplex, and Campagnolo in the rear derailleur department simply because their rear derailleurs Were That Much Better Than Europe's Best At Any Price.
You are absolutely kidding yourself if you think an ALLVIT is as good as anything from Shimano or Suntour.
Sure, the Allvit does work but just like anything from Huret, Simplex, or Campagnolo, although it might look cool, but functional reliability. was surpassed by 1967-1968 when the Shimano Lark began to appear. You are essentially frozen in time with a less reliable rear derailleur if you choose to keep the ALLVIT, or any other Huret rear derailleur, or rear derailleurs from Campagnolo or Simplex on any bicycles of that era. Like it or not, the Japanese massively improved rear derailleurs even if they only improved upon existing European designs!
Another often overlooked reason that the 1970 - 1977 COLLEGIATES and Five Speed SUBURBANS are far superior to VARSITIES/ten speed SUBURBANS/CONTINENTALS is that the BOMB-PROOF SIMPLICITY of the FIVE SPEED with single 46 teeth Front Crank and NO FRONT DERAILLEUR at all.
The Model J freewheel with 32-26-21-17-14 and the single front 46 teeth Crankwheel of the 1970 and later COLLEGIATE & 5 speed SUBURBANS does in fact offer a very wide gear range that is almost as wide as the gear range of the ten speeds(VARSITY-CONTINENTAL- 10speedSUBURBAN).

Do the math for yourself if you don't believe that the gear range is ALMOST AS WIDE as that of the ten speeds.
The TEN SPEEDS (Varsity-10spSUBURBAN-Continental) have the Model F freewheel with 28-24-20-16-14 and they have 39 & 52 teeth front crankwheels, and those same ten speeds have that POS Allvit rear derailleur unless they were assembled on a day when the Chicago production line was out of Allvits and instead substituted the far superior GT-100 or GT-120, depending on the era.

It ain't too difficult to see why the 1970 and up COLLEGIATE and 5 speed SUBURBAN are the best and most durable of the electroforged Schwinn "lightweights".

The 1964-1969 COLLEGIATE has the same POS Huret Allvit rear derailleur as the Varsity/Continental and also has the same model F 28-24-20-16-14 freewheel.
Thus, the 1964-1969 COLLEGIATE does not have the durability of the 1970 and later model........the 1964-1969 Collegiate DOES NOT have the wide range gearing that the 1970 and later Collegiate has. Hey just consider the HILLCLIMBING capability between the 28 teeth first gear of 1964-1969 versus the 32 teeth first gear of 1970 and later.........................remember that they all employ the same 46 teeth front crank............. I know that you must be wondering why didn't they employ a larger tooth first gear before 1970..............BECAUSE IT TOOK THE JAPANESE TO DEVELOP A SUPREMELY RELIABLE REAR DERAILLEUR THAT COULD SHIFT SOMETHING WITH 30 or MORE TEETH, THAT'S WHY!! The Europeans at that time could not make one that would reliably shift a first gear sprocket with 32 teeth!!!
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Old 09-09-20, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Vintage Schwinn
1970 - 1977 COLLEGIATES and Five Speed SUBURBANS ARE SUPERIOR TO Varsities/1964-1969 Collegiates/Ten speed SUBURBANS/CONTINENTALS BECAUSE THEY CAME EQUIPPED WITH Shimano built REAR DERAILLEURS and the MODEL J Freewheel...
Ok, I understand now - you're referring to the models as a whole.

A bit unfair to judge these electroforged bikes on that point, given that its fairly easy to swap out a rear derailer (and in the 30-40 years that have transpired, many may already come to us with replacement RDs). As you might have noticed, our crowd doesn't leave things stock for long either

Originally Posted by base2
In this pic, you can see I already nixed the mountain crankset in favor of a more road friendly polished 30-54 Ultegra....
The dropouts on your converted Varsity convinced me to peek into the build thread. Bravo for doing what nobody else would have - and for executing it beautifully.

-Kurt
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Old 09-09-20, 11:07 PM
  #40  
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Thanks for the links base2 to your build posts. You make several good points for starting with a Schwinn Varsity. I like both bikes but must admit that the long wheelbase touring bike with 26" tires is clever and rational. I know there are forum members that say why start such a project with a Schwinn Varsity frame.

The Varsity and Continental frames have rather slack geometry that is different from even bikes of the 70's and up. This results in a stable and plush ride. After acquiring a Raleigh Roadster that was too big for me, I was wanting something with the laid back geometry of the Raleigh Roadster. The Varsinentals have that. The are well made, albeit heavy. As many point out, indestructible. A little weigh on the frame is not that big an issue, really, unless you are racing.

So, nice job. I'm a fan. By the way, Squid Puppet has some nicely thought out and finished Varinentals as well.

funsizes these bikes are polarizing. Fix it up, ride it and see how you like them. The Collegate will create more comments because it looks like it has the Front Freewheeling system and probably the Positron rear derailleur. I was never a fan of this system, but I have to admit that it works and allows shifting while coasting. Check out RJ the Bike Guy for some info on Front Freewheeling systems. If it were mine, I would first use it as it comes but clean and lube everything. Ride it and decide for yourself how you like it.
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Old 09-09-20, 11:21 PM
  #41  
repechage
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Originally Posted by funsizes
Nope I payed $60 total for both bikes. I thought it was going to be a fun side project to try to get new parts on it, but it doesn't seem to be the case based on this forum, but if I was to go through the route of buying the parts how would I even buy the parts to then replace the parts on my existing bike?
there are a number of limitation points that really make upgrades a chore-
the front derailleur is fit for a smaller seat tube than almost any quality part would fit without a bushing. Can be overcome, but minimal gain.
a case can be made for aluminum rims... but the solid axles are smaller than any wheel with a quick release, the fork can be altered if one knows what they are doing.
after one is all done with what can be done, that bag of cash would return so much more on investment elsewhere.

the schwinn’s noted are very abuse and even neglect proof. Suitable for running off curbs, small dogs and wayward children.

refurbish the Varsity, only new tires, brake blocks, two new cables, move the rears to the front, repack the bearings.

then buy a basic French and a basic Japanese bike, do the equal rebuild to each, then comparison ride them all.

the prediction- the French bike rides and handles best, the Japanese bike shifts best and the schwinn is the bike for the zombie apocalypse
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Old 09-09-20, 11:34 PM
  #42  
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.
...just for the record, when I lived in Merced, I commuted for about three years to work and over to the community college to use their gym and pool by means of a very purple, step through, Schwinn Collegiate (maybe it was a Breeze ?),with a SA three speed hub in back and an awesome chromed chain guard. So it's not that I don't appreciate what they are, It's just that they are what they are, and as already stated above, you can dump a lot of money into "upgrades" that may or may not improve "performance". Which is kinda not what they had in mind with the original design.
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Old 09-10-20, 01:04 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Tomm Willians
Among the 25 or so bikes we have in our stable, the gf and I recently acquired a matching set of his/hers 1971 orange Varsities complete with speedometers and generator lights, mine also has the original seat bag. I’m not great at accurately rating condition but they are in fine shape to my eye, obviously stored indoors their entire life.

They were bought in 71 by a couple and then sold to another couple about 5 years ago who insisted they go to yet another couple and that’s how we got them. Without a doubt they are the heaviest bikes we own and maybe the heaviest I’ve ever picked up but they are a sheer joy to spin around on shorter (sub 20) rides. I don’t expect them to do what they’re not built for and I don’t get disappointed.

Nostalgia plays a huge part in why I connect with these bikes as I had an Orange Krate as a kid and these bikes are the same color from the same year. That might not be much of a reason to own them for most folks but it is for me. I have much, much faster and lighter bikes but these old tanks fit a need (want?) for me. Wouldn’t change a thing on them.
For sure it was nostalgia that had me bringing home my first old Schwinns from the thrift store as an adult, but it really was the fantastic ride quality that led me to plenty of challenging foothills rides on them. And I also like riding the 10-speed Suburbans with the upright bars on them.

I was reading this here, about the two orange Varsities, suddenly it sounded too familiar. So I looked at the post's author and, yep, same guy who came by today for a Craigslist-initiated bike trade! As we talked about the Varsities, I remember him telling me he used a modern, near-ground-level rack to carry them around, I joked that maybe a wheelchair lift might be best.

Anyway, it's a small world after all. Great meeting Tomm and perhaps someone could chime in who knows if (on a different topic here) Campagnolo ever sold the short-front/long-rear Record caliper set having recessed-mounting studs(?). Maybe a dedicated-topic post will be needed to get Tomm an answer(?).
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Old 09-10-20, 01:30 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Vintage Schwinn
1970 - 1977 COLLEGIATES and Five Speed SUBURBANS ARE SUPERIOR TO Varsities/1964-1969 Collegiates/Ten speed SUBURBANS/CONTINENTALS BECAUSE THEY CAME EQUIPPED WITH Shimano built REAR DERAILLEURS and the MODEL J Freewheel...
Actually, some early-70's Varsities also came with the Shimano-made rear derailer, and also came with Sansin-made, hi-flange hubs having the Schwinn-trademark triangular flange cutouts.

But by 1974, the Varsity was back to using French-made hubs and a Schwinn-Approved Huret Allvit-derived rear derailer having an advanced new patented pulley cage (see below).

The shielded, Shimano-made freewheel was smart in that the plastic shielding ring repelled rainwater from entering the bearings and ratchet while the bike was tilted to the left while parked on it's kickstand. It was a Schwinn exclusive, so that plastic ring was likely invented in Chicago.

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Old 09-10-20, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by tpadul
Post some pictures of the bikes and the parts, close up pictures of the parts will help the forum members if they look like they need to be replaced. You can post 10 photos in each reply
I still can't post pictures, as I am still new to this forum. I have posted them in my gallery, so like FBOATSB please review. I went for a ride yesterday, I live near Nashville TN, so we have moderate hills. The front wheel is definitely not worn evenly I felt the bumps when I topped out at what felt like 10-15 mph. The wheels on the varsity definitely need to be replaced. The collegiate wheels and everything is still in good shape I would say.

The only reason I'm thinking of changing the friction shifters is because it is very hard to climb hills if you don't have the momentum built up. This bike is designed for flat terrains it feels like. I cleaned and oiled the chain earlier in the day as well. I don't mind the weight and I think I'm in decent shape. Seems like the thread is saying to keep the bike shifters the same and just change the wheels and seats, maybe I just need different bikes for the hills. My overall goal with the bikes is to get a different form of cardio with them, but of course I need to be able to climb hills without having to pedal through what feels like quicksand. I also would like a touring bike for some strolls with the wife.

What bike models would you guys suggest I get then for what I'm wanting to accomplish? I don't mind having to assemble bikes from scratch I would say I'm mechanistically inclined.
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Old 09-10-20, 09:12 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by funsizes
I still can't post pictures, as I am still new to this forum. I have posted them in my gallery, so like FBOATSB please review. I went for a ride yesterday, I live near Nashville TN, so we have moderate hills. The front wheel is definitely not worn evenly I felt the bumps when I topped out at what felt like 10-15 mph. The wheels on the varsity definitely need to be replaced. The collegiate wheels and everything is still in good shape I would say.

The only reason I'm thinking of changing the friction shifters is because it is very hard to climb hills if you don't have the momentum built up. This bike is designed for flat terrains it feels like. I cleaned and oiled the chain earlier in the day as well. I don't mind the weight and I think I'm in decent shape. Seems like the thread is saying to keep the bike shifters the same and just change the wheels and seats, maybe I just need different bikes for the hills. My overall goal with the bikes is to get a different form of cardio with them, but of course I need to be able to climb hills without having to pedal through what feels like quicksand. I also would like a touring bike for some strolls with the wife.

What bike models would you guys suggest I get then for what I'm wanting to accomplish? I don't mind having to assemble bikes from scratch I would say I'm mechanistically inclined.
You hit the nail on the head. Those Schwinns were designed and built right here in Chicago where there are no hills to climb. I ride my commuter bike to work almost daily and haven't changed the gears all summer.

The best value is a 1980's era Japanese made road bike. It doesn't have to be designed specifically for touring, you can customize it to your needs. There are many brands to choose from, even Schwinn bikes from the 80's were made in Japan.
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Old 09-10-20, 09:24 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by dddd
For sure it was nostalgia that had me bringing home my first old Schwinns from the thrift store as an adult, but it really was the fantastic ride quality that led me to plenty of challenging foothills rides on them. And I also like riding the 10-speed Suburbans with the upright bars on them.

I was reading this here, about the two orange Varsities, suddenly it sounded too familiar. So I looked at the post's author and, yep, same guy who came by today for a Craigslist-initiated bike trade! As we talked about the Varsities, I remember him telling me he used a modern, near-ground-level rack to carry them around, I joked that maybe a wheelchair lift might be best.

Anyway, it's a small world after all. Great meeting Tomm and perhaps someone could chime in who knows if (on a different topic here) Campagnolo ever sold the short-front/long-rear Record caliper set having recessed-mounting studs(?). Maybe a dedicated-topic post will be needed to get Tomm an answer(?).
Hi Dave !

I’ll get those pics to you today
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Old 09-10-20, 12:00 PM
  #48  
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Varsities had reasonably low gearing. The main thing is that they're just pretty heavy. The simplest fix is new tires. Next simplest upgrade is lighter aluminum rims. They'lll make the bike feel a lot lighter, and improve the braking. Changing the gearing to something significantly lower would be pretty involved and cost more than the bike is worth. Easiest method to change the gears would be a replacement freewheel, which would get the gearing a little bit lower, but it's pretty simple. The original freewheel is probably 14-28T. You may be able to find a 14-32T used 5 speed freewheel somewhere: co-op, ebay, etc. I don't think they make them anymore in 5 spd. You will need a new and longer chain, and may need a new rear derailleur to make it work.

Complete replacement wheels in the correct size for a Schwinn Varsity are no longer sold. The hub size is for 5 speeds.

Two options:

Lace new rims onto the old hubs. This is actually something you can DIY, but it would take some perseverance.

Buy new complete replacement wheels with 27" rims and 126mm (6-7 speed) hubs. The front should swap right in. The rear could be converted to 5 speed by swapping or chopping spacer washers in the hub and re-dishing the wheel.
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Old 09-10-20, 01:43 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Salamandrine
......Buy new complete replacement wheels with 27" rims and 126mm (6-7 speed) hubs. The front should swap right in. The rear could be converted to 5 speed by swapping or chopping spacer washers in the hub and re-dishing the wheel.
Why convert "back" to 5 speed? I swapped in wheels from a later Schwinn with a 6 speed freewheel. Tweaked the Hi and Lo stops for the original RD and went on my merry way, it was an SIS freewheel which made shifting noticeably smoother.
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Old 09-10-20, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Murray Missile
Why convert "back" to 5 speed? I swapped in wheels from a later Schwinn with a 6 speed freewheel. Tweaked the Hi and Lo stops for the original RD and went on my merry way, it was an SIS freewheel which made shifting noticeably smoother.
1) The frame and dropouts need to be re-allgned to convert to 6-7 speed. *

2) The rear derailleur may not work if it's an Allvit. You can tweak them to shift over 6 but it's going to be beyond a newbie unless they have exceptional mechanical aptitude.

* Regarding just shoving in a 6 speed wheel and hoping for the best. I don't condone that. It's a hack. Not a great idea for a variety of very good reasons I don't feel like typing out.

See Sheldon Brown's page if you want to do a 5 speed to 6 speed conversion.
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