Sjtaylor

This is my second day on trying to get this stuck stem out. After initial soaks with liquid wrench I got the stem to rotate but not easily and not a full revolution. I tried driving the stem out with a wooden block. It moved 1/8”, stopped and locked up so I couldn’t even rotate it. I let the whole mess soak in liquid wrench for 24 hours. I tried again tonight and nothing moved. At this point I’m worried I’ll damage something by continuing to beat and wrench on it. FYI the stem is slammed lol the way into the steer tube. The wedge piece is free and sliding back and forth in the steer tube.

So...I cut the stem off at the crotch and used a farrier’s rasp to round the hack saw cut so I could remove the nuts and and fork from the frame. I’ll show a photo of what I have now.

The stem measures .860” OD. I have two 1/2” shank drill bits, one measures .840” and the other .810”. Im tempted to cut the stem off flush with the steer tube and drill the damn thing out. But, now that I have the fork out it would be really easy to soak the stuck stem in something nasty for one last try to free it up.

What do you think of my “drill it out” idea? Should I soak it some more and expect a different result?

Thanks.

icemilkcoffee 

Soak it in lye. It will erode the aluminum. Just make sure the garage is well ventilated....

OldBike876

The wedge is loose and the stem rotates but doesn't cone out? Ugh.

Here's my 2 cents. If you suspect it's corrosion, I'd stick the aluminum end in a bucket of ice, and then I'd take it out and try to push it out from the bottom. If you suspect something got in there with it and is acting as a wedge (I can't imagine how that even happens), I'd try a thin feeler gauge to locate the item, and focus on getting it out of there before moving the stem at all.

Pop N Wood

I wouldn't try drilling it out. The bit will grab at those thin aluminum edges and you will forever damage the inside of the head tube.

Heat and vibration works wonders. I would hook a steel rod to an air hammer and work on it from the bottom.

Another option might be drilling a hole through the side of the stem and hook a bolt or cable to that to give you more leverage pulling.

bwilli88 

Get some Sodium Hydroxide/Lye/Caustic Soda. Wear gloves and eye protection when you use it but it will dissolve the aluminum.

WGB 

A local frame builder suggested turning the forks upside down and securing a weight to the cutoff stem. He then said heat the cutoff stem with a welding torch to 660 celsius as aluminum melts there but since it's aluminum oxide (and aluminum oxide melts at 2110 celsius) that's holding the stem the aluminum won't pour out but the stem will stretch and slide out. Obviously you need a place for it to fall. I haven't used this method myself but I'd try it if you could before lye.

General thoughts on using powdered lye (Sodium Hydroxide). Think real hard about this before you use it. It worked for me but if you can avoid it I would. This is scary stuff. Eye and face protection are vital as are thick clothes and gloves.

I used the lye method this winter on two seized bar stems and one seized seat tube. The first attempt was on a destroyed bike so no loss.

The heat generated by the chemical reaction destroyed the paint on the seat tube so I won't ever do that again. Due to the join of the seat tube, down tube and seat stays it is hard to use lye yet keep the seat tube from getting hot and destroying the paint and I did it when it was well below zero. Perhaps your mileage may vary.

On forks the process is both simpler and safer.

I cut off the stem with a sawzall, just above the crown. I removed the headset cups, spacers etc. I went out in the back yard and I used a tall glass jar half filled with cold water, not metal as you don't want the container to melt also. Hot water is not needed as the cold gets hot very quick. I wrapped the steerer tube in a rag to prevent any splashing or bubbling from getting on the painted portion of the forks and then I put the tube with the remainder of the stem into the jar. I poured the powdered lye into the steerer tube using a funnel.

NEVER POUR WATER DIRECTLY ONTO THE POWDER AS IT WILL SPLATTER!!

I stayed well back when pouring and left the area for 20-30 minutes IIRC. I returned and pulled the forks clear of the jar. Removing the forks removes the aluminum from the reaction and the bubbling stops. The remainder of the stem will be bright and shiny.

A) the solution is incredibly powerful and will melt your skin even without the aluminum so treat it with great caution. You will need to dispose of the leftover solution so preplan that.
B) If it spills it will mark anything under it and leave fine white powder (the melted aluminum).

THE JAR MUST BE COMPLETELY DRY BEFORE YOU TRY THE SECOND ROUND SO HAVE AT LEAST TWO MORE JARS.

It may take several tries to completely melt the stem out. At last the stem will be completely melted or a sliver will fall out. Any heat scaring of the steerer tube is hidden within your headtube.

Again, I would seek out any other method before using lye. Not recommending it and if you use it your on your own. You only get one set of eyes.

stevoo

I know you tried liquid Wrench but Kroil works quite a bit better. Actually on a whole nuther level better.
It has yet to fail me on stuck stems. You mentioned that you got it to move a small amount. That is great as the Kroil will really migrate when that happens and removal has always followed that tiny movement.
Cheap investment and a little goes a long ways. A can last forever as it does not take much. Shock loading (light hammer blows) help it to penetrate too.
Good Luck

Sjtaylor

This can just sit there. Im going for a bike ride.