Bafang mid-drive display question
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Bafang mid-drive display question
I recently had two recumbents converted to Bafang mid drives. The display is a C965. It is satisfactory except the cable between the display and the 3-button control is hard wired to about 10 inches. With the long handlebars on the recumbents I would like at least 14 inches so the button could be next to my thumb rather than in the middle of the handlebar. Has anybody here modified this display to lengthen the cable? I believe I have the skills to splice in an extra 6 inches, but it would be easier if the connections at the display were soldered to a printed circuit board, so that only one set of wire junctions would be added. Of course there is the warranty issue.
Any information on this display would be appreciated.
-Denis
Any information on this display would be appreciated.
-Denis
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Just buy an extension cable, that way you keep the waterproof connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/Junstar-Exten.../dp/B07LCLC5YQ
This one even mentions recumbents
https://www.amazon.com/BAFANG-Extens...PJ64YXYM1A8MW6
Luna cycles sells 8 inch versions
https://www.amazon.com/Junstar-Exten.../dp/B07LCLC5YQ
This one even mentions recumbents
https://www.amazon.com/BAFANG-Extens...PJ64YXYM1A8MW6
Luna cycles sells 8 inch versions
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I'd guess if you figured out how to open up the display and the key pad, you would find a way to solder in a longer cable, but that's much more work than necessary (and the plastic cases may not come apart easily. Just splice in more wire. It won't look as elegant, but you will forget about it after 30 minutes of riding.
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Separating key pad and c965 display by at least 14 inches
OP states that it is hard-wired so there would be no connectors supporting an extension cable.
I'd guess if you figured out how to open up the display and the key pad, you would find a way to solder in a longer cable, but that's much more work than necessary (and the plastic cases may not come apart easily. Just splice in more wire. It won't look as elegant, but you will forget about it after 30 minutes of riding.
I'd guess if you figured out how to open up the display and the key pad, you would find a way to solder in a longer cable, but that's much more work than necessary (and the plastic cases may not come apart easily. Just splice in more wire. It won't look as elegant, but you will forget about it after 30 minutes of riding.
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Good luck on whatever you decide to do. I would be great if you posted your experience here so that others could take advantage of your yet-to-be-developed experience.
BTW - welcome to bikeforums.
BTW - welcome to bikeforums.
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The warranty on a $60 part doesn't seem worth the headache. With that said I would have to look at how such a display was assembled before I would try and open it up.
Two other options. Splice in a pair of raw connectors allowing an extension cable. The button assembly is probably easier to reassemble, put a connector near the head unit than run a whole cable from the inside of the button assembly to the connector.
The other option is replace the display with a mini display. I really like my 500c display. Depending on the ergonomics of your bent bars that might work
Two other options. Splice in a pair of raw connectors allowing an extension cable. The button assembly is probably easier to reassemble, put a connector near the head unit than run a whole cable from the inside of the button assembly to the connector.
The other option is replace the display with a mini display. I really like my 500c display. Depending on the ergonomics of your bent bars that might work
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Last edited by Dewey101; 09-11-20 at 08:20 AM.
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Working with my cheap hub kits, I often have to shorten the throttle, display, and brake cables. That's 12 splices. and if you have to do it, then you do it.
Probably four wires. That's what's inside the 3 button switch for my broken LCD3 display. One common. One for power. One for up[ and one for down.
Probably four wires. That's what's inside the 3 button switch for my broken LCD3 display. One common. One for power. One for up[ and one for down.
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Working with my cheap hub kits, I often have to shorten the throttle, display, and brake cables. That's 12 splices. and if you have to do it, then you do it.
Probably four wires. That's what's inside the 3 button switch for my broken LCD3 display. One common. One for power. One for up[ and one for down.
Probably four wires. That's what's inside the 3 button switch for my broken LCD3 display. One common. One for power. One for up[ and one for down.
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Working with my cheap hub kits, I often have to shorten the throttle, display, and brake cables. That's 12 splices. and if you have to do it, then you do it.
Probably four wires. That's what's inside the 3 button switch for my broken LCD3 display. One common. One for power. One for up[ and one for down.
Probably four wires. That's what's inside the 3 button switch for my broken LCD3 display. One common. One for power. One for up[ and one for down.
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Separating key pad and c965 display by at least 14 inches
Working with my cheap hub kits, I often have to shorten the throttle, display, and brake cables. That's 12 splices. and if you have to do it, then you do it.
Probably four wires. That's what's inside the 3 button switch for my broken LCD3 display. One common. One for power. One for up[ and one for down.
Probably four wires. That's what's inside the 3 button switch for my broken LCD3 display. One common. One for power. One for up[ and one for down.
The warranty on a $60 part doesn't seem worth the headache. With that said I would have to look at how such a display was assembled before I would try and open it up.
Two other options. Splice in a pair of raw connectors allowing an extension cable. The button assembly is probably easier to reassemble, put a connector near the head unit than run a whole cable from the inside of the button assembly to the connector.
The other option is replace the display with a mini display. I really like my 500c display. Depending on the ergonomics of your bent bars that might work
Two other options. Splice in a pair of raw connectors allowing an extension cable. The button assembly is probably easier to reassemble, put a connector near the head unit than run a whole cable from the inside of the button assembly to the connector.
The other option is replace the display with a mini display. I really like my 500c display. Depending on the ergonomics of your bent bars that might work
The mini display is a possibility, but I have to come up with a 90 degree mount, as the grips are parallel to the direction of travel and are back from the stem some. (photo not allowed)
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Relocating the buttons on a C965 Bafang display
I found a video of the C965 and its buttons opened. It is a bit hard to see, but it appears that indeed the button gadget has a pc board with the cable wires soldered on--nothing fancy or sophisticated like spot welding or tiny crimped connections. That is good. After the smoke clears and real winter weather sets in I will give opening the thing a try. The video is here:
Crumb! URL not allowed yet. It is from electricbikereview forums. Thread is on waterproofing components post # 217343
Crumb! URL not allowed yet. It is from electricbikereview forums. Thread is on waterproofing components post # 217343
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Separating key pad and c965 display by at least 14 inches
I found photos by the same person who did the video. They are much clearer, but there is no text describing what was he found. I will post the links when permitted.
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Relocating the buttons on a C965 Bafang display
I have seen photos of the C965 and its 3-button switch opened. The presence of water proofing encapsulation makes me hesitant to open either of them. Cutting and splicing into the cable seems like the reasonable approach, as a few of you have suggested.
I wonder if anybody is familiar with "Heat shrink insulated butt connectors with internal fluxed solder ring". It appears to solve a few problems all at once: solder, insulation, waterproofing. If they work well it would make the job easy. I would need to know the wire size to pick the connector. If I do this over the winter I can open the cable, measure the wire size, then get the connectors. The solder melts at 138C, so I would like the insulation on the wires to put up with that. I do not know if that is a challenge or an easy requirement.
-Denis
I wonder if anybody is familiar with "Heat shrink insulated butt connectors with internal fluxed solder ring". It appears to solve a few problems all at once: solder, insulation, waterproofing. If they work well it would make the job easy. I would need to know the wire size to pick the connector. If I do this over the winter I can open the cable, measure the wire size, then get the connectors. The solder melts at 138C, so I would like the insulation on the wires to put up with that. I do not know if that is a challenge or an easy requirement.
-Denis