What do you consider cross chaining?
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Cross chaining isn't the big deal like it was years ago. Many systems hum along fine in extreme chain lines. Ride what makes you happy.
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Keep the chain tight!
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I don't consider cross-chaining at all.
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Datlas, your penance will be 10 hill repeats, 5 one minute sprints and you must wave to everyone on your next ride. We expect to see you next Sunday in your holy kit.
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I never cross chain, I only use my 53 chain ring with my 11,12,13 cogs up to about a 10%. When it get steeper than 10% I have to go on down to my 42 chain ring and use the 17,19,21.
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Cross-chaining stresses the chain by bending it sideways ... but chains are 5000-mile consumables anyway, otherwise, cross-chaining can wear on the insides of derailleur cages---but likely not enough to do damage, and most people will shift if they hear grinding. So basically ... not much of an issue.
The problem with only sharing the middle three gears is that depending on cluster/chainrings you might have duplicate ratios in there, cutting the available rations down pretty far. On another hand, depending on terrain, it might be a lot more efficient to keep shifting the back --say, topping out a hill where the quicker rear shift is far better than the slightly slower big-small chainring shift because of the speed and momentum you would lose. (I did this exact thing a few hours ago.)
Some guy back when five-speed freehubs were brand new told some other guy, "Just share the middle three" and now it has become gospel to some folks it seems.
But really ... I don't care how others choose to do it. Interesting to hear different views---even if they are so completely wrong.
J/K of course.
The problem with only sharing the middle three gears is that depending on cluster/chainrings you might have duplicate ratios in there, cutting the available rations down pretty far. On another hand, depending on terrain, it might be a lot more efficient to keep shifting the back --say, topping out a hill where the quicker rear shift is far better than the slightly slower big-small chainring shift because of the speed and momentum you would lose. (I did this exact thing a few hours ago.)
Some guy back when five-speed freehubs were brand new told some other guy, "Just share the middle three" and now it has become gospel to some folks it seems.
But really ... I don't care how others choose to do it. Interesting to hear different views---even if they are so completely wrong.
J/K of course.
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On a 11 speed cassette and two chainrings, what would you consider is cross chaining?
I was thinking the following.
The smallest 4 cogs are used only for the big chainring.
The medium 3 cogs are shared between the two chainrings.
The largest 4 cogs are used only for the small chainring.
Otherwise, it's cross chaining.
Would you say this is about right or is a
3
5
3
a more like it or something else?
I was thinking the following.
The smallest 4 cogs are used only for the big chainring.
The medium 3 cogs are shared between the two chainrings.
The largest 4 cogs are used only for the small chainring.
Otherwise, it's cross chaining.
Would you say this is about right or is a
3
5
3
a more like it or something else?
This picture is quite conservative, it uses just over a third of the cassette with each chainring:
You can 2/3 of the sprockets (whatever number you have at the back) with each chainring with minimal cross chaining. So with 3x6, it would mean 4, 4, 4, while with 2x11 it would mean 7, 7. Triple provides all the gear ratios with less cross chaining than a double.
#39
Non omnino gravis
I guess it varies from bike to bike. Because on my frame, the big ring to small cog has a more angled chainline than big ring to big cog. I have a 48/36 pair in the front and an 11-32 cassette, and will routinely use the 48/28 for extended periods of time (as there is no combo with the 36T that falls on that ratio.) The only no-go combos are 36/12 and 36/11. The chain gets chattery (mostly from the absurd amount of slack,) and there's really no need-- 36/12 and 48/16 are the same thing.
Oh, and if the derailleurs are adjusted properly, you should be able to shift into every cog on either front ring. Mine will, and I set it up knowing next to nothing about it, and operating by trial-and-error. As a wise man on here once said, "It's a bicycle. It's not that complicated."
So... you do like 16-22mph up these hypothetical 10% grades? Because that's only guessing at 50rpm. If you're powerful enough to turn the gear at all, you should be flying up those grades like a rocket. Myself, I humbly manage about 7.5mph up a 10%, turning say 50-60rpm in a 48/25 or 48/28. But I am a mere mortal.
Oh, and if the derailleurs are adjusted properly, you should be able to shift into every cog on either front ring. Mine will, and I set it up knowing next to nothing about it, and operating by trial-and-error. As a wise man on here once said, "It's a bicycle. It's not that complicated."
So... you do like 16-22mph up these hypothetical 10% grades? Because that's only guessing at 50rpm. If you're powerful enough to turn the gear at all, you should be flying up those grades like a rocket. Myself, I humbly manage about 7.5mph up a 10%, turning say 50-60rpm in a 48/25 or 48/28. But I am a mere mortal.
Last edited by DrIsotope; 12-11-15 at 12:57 AM.
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So... you do like 16-22mph up these hypothetical 10% grades? Because that's only guessing at 50rpm. If you're powerful enough to turn the gear at all, you should be flying up those grades like a rocket. Myself, I humbly manage about 7.5mph up a 10%, turning say 50-60rpm in a 48/25 or 48/28. But I am a mere mortal.
I should have used emoticons, it wasn't meant to be taken seriously. I really didn't think it was possible nor believed. Sorry
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Huh it's always interesting to hear you Shimano boys talk about this, and then disregard Yaw Front Derailleurs from SRAM. What a fun thread.
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But seriously, I was wondering if you were just exaggerating a real tendency to keep it on the big ring when most folks drop to the small. I know a rider like that - out of the saddle a LOT....
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I've heard that the angle of departure on compact double cranks is well within specs of the chain in every single combination possible. Something like 3deg allowable and max 1.06 deg departure in worst case. I don't have the numbers off hand. But from them I believe there is no such thing as cross chaining on modern equipment. Just use it and forget about it.